Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
Quantity: 10 Piece
Specification
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How to Replace Strut Spring Assembly 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey
How to Replace Strut Spring Assembly 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey
Created on: 2013-02-21
Tools used
20mm Socket
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench
Raise and secure the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
2. Remove the bottom of the strut
Apply penetrating oil to the nuts on the bottom of the strut.
Use a breaker bar and penetrating oil to unbolt the 18 mm strut bolts on the bottom
Unclip the ABS sensor wire.
3. Remove the top of the strut
Pop the hood and secure it.
Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry up the little covers to access the 14 mm nuts.
Apply penetrating oil to the 14 mm nuts at the top of the strut.
Hold onto the strut as you remove it.
4. Install the new strut
Bolt the strut back in, torquing your 14 mm bolts to 30 ft lbs
Have someone help you guide the top of the strut into place and get the nuts started under the cover.
Insert your spindle to the lower end of the strut and raise your control arm until the bolt holes line up.
Torque the bottom 18 mm nut to 85 ft lbs
Make sure you don’t pinch your ABS wire and its placed correctly.
5. Replace the wheel
Put the wheel on and hand tighten the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft lbs using a star pattern.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front strut on this 2003 Honda Odyssey. Pretty much the same as any '99-'03. I'm sorry, '99-'04. We show you the passenger side front strut placement. Driver's side is the same. We do always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs, as well as you will need to take your vehicle for an alignment after this repair. You'll need a new set of struts from 1AAuto.com. You'll need a jack and jack stands, 8-22mm sockets. You'll need ratchets for those sockets with a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage for some of the big ones, an 18mm wrench, some penetrating oil, and a flat blade screwdriver.
As you can see here, I've got the vehicle raised up and I'm removing the lug nuts with my impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or your tire iron. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. You can see here I'm kicking the tire. That's basically just a way if your tire or wheel is a little bit frozen on because of the aluminum, just give it some good kicks and break it loose. Then you can remove the tire. We're going to start by putting some lubricant on the ends of the bolts so the nuts actually come off on the front and the back side. We've got an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket for the top of the end link. The 18mm wrench goes on the back. Socket goes on the front. Then you just have to use your muscle to tear it apart. I'm just going to speed up here as we remove that nut the rest of the way. Now we can pull the end link out. There are a couple bolts on top that hold the break hose and the ABS sensor. Spray them down with some penetrating oil, as well as the two large bolts that hold the strut. The 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the upper, or the break hose. Then 8mm socket and ratchet or a wrench to remove the ABS sensor wire.
Next we're going to remove these two 22mm nuts so we can pull the bolts out of the strut and remove the bottom half of the strut. Most people have ratchets. If you need a little extra leverage, you can always put a pipe on the end of it and get yourself a whole lot more force on it. As you can see, it works. One step better than the ratchet would be a breaker bar. It is obviously a little longer so you don't need to add pipe to it usually. As you can see, it normally works too. Just see us cheat here as we get out the impact wrench and pull those nuts off the rest of the way. To get these two bolts out, you can see that they're already loose so we really just have to tap them out. Just going to fast forward here. You can just use your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise and pull on them and they'll come out, or just use some kind of punch or tool to knock them out from the other side.
Now you just basically need to wiggle them apart and then the bottom of the strut is detected. On the top you can see that there is three covers, and that's how you access the top bolts for the strut. First we'll pop the covers off. The three bolts on the top of the strut are 14mm so we'll drop a 14mm socket down there and... Fast forward as Jeremy removes two of the bolts. We're going to leave one on for right now. If you do drop one down in there you can actually just take that plastic cover, the cover that has the three holes in it, pull up on it, and you'll see me do it later, pull up on it and a couple clips come loose and you can reach underneath there and grab the nuts if you drop them. Now we'll loosen up the last nut and you see the strut start to drop down. As you can see, the new one looks a lot like the original one, except obviously brand new. It will look and fit and bolt in just like the original one did. You want to put the top in first. Make sure you put the ABS sensor wire in the right spot. That's going to go under the strut. While one person is lifting up, you can actually lift up this roof here. Grab your new bolts. Help guide it up in there. Turn it a little bit the other way. Guide it up in, and start your bolts.
I'm just going to fast forward as Jeremy reaches under that cover, puts on the rest of the bolts and then kind of preliminarily tightens them. If you didn't have a helper, what you could do from the last scene is put one of the lower bolts into the lower strut mount area and then just use a jack to jack up the suspension to help you guide the strut into place. Now we're going to torque these top three strut bolts to about 34 pounds. I'm just going to fast forward as we, as Jeremy tightens up the last two bolts, then puts that plastic cover back down in place. Make sure all the clips are secure, and then put the three little plastic covers that go over top of the bolt holes into place. We can basically align this by sticking something through the bolt holes. Now make sure the ABS wire is in the right spot and you should be able to get the knuckle into the middle of the strut. Fast forward here as Jeremy pushes those bolts through, puts the nuts on and just kind of preliminarily tightens them up.
You'll want to torque these bolts to between 115-120 pounds. Speed it up here as Jeremy bolts on some of the final components, the 8 and 10mm bolts that hold the ABS sensor and the break line, as well as a little bit later you'll see him put the strut, the stabilizer link strut back on. Obviously we're showing you the passenger side. You always want to replace these struts in pairs and as well have your vehicle aligned after you do this type of repair. Put your wheel back on and start all your lug nuts just by hand first, and then while the vehicle is still in the air just kind of preliminarily tighten them with your socket and ratchet or as I'm doing with my impact wrench. Again, use your torque wrench and you want to tighten your lug nuts between 95 and 100 foot pounds. Use a star pattern as you tighten.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
If the wheel is frozen in place, kick the tire to loosen it
2. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Apply penetrating oil to the stabilizer link bolts
Attach an 18mm wrench to the back of the top stabilizer link bolt
Remove the top 18mm nut with a socket and ratchet
Pull out the top stabilizer link stud
Attach an 18mm wrench to the back of the bottom stabilizer link bolt
Remove the bottom 18mm nut with a second 18mm wrench
Pull out the stabilizer link
3. Installing the New Stabilizer Link
Push the lower stabilizer link stud into place
Push the upper stabilizer link stud into place
Start the two 18mm nuts
Tighten the nuts to between 55 - 60 foot-pounds of torque
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to between 95 - 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front stabilizer link or one of the front stabilizer links. We show you the passenger's side and the driver's side is the same procedure. With stabilizer links, you'll hear a rattling and sometimes you'll know that it's a stabilizer link if you enter a slight curve and then the rattling stops. That's usually a good sign that the stabilizer link is bad. What you'll need is a new stabilizer link from 1A Auto. If you're going to replace one, it's probably a good idea just to replace just them both. Usually if one is getting worn out, the other one is getting ready to go. Jack and jack stands, I did put a star. You can do this without jacking the vehicle up but it does make it quite a bit more difficult just to get in there in the angles and stuff. You'll need two 18mm wrenches and you'll need an 18mm socket and ratchet and some penetrating oil.
As you can see here, I've got the vehicle raised up and I'm removing the lug nuts with my impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or your tire iron. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. You can see here I'm kicking the tire. That's basically just a way . if your tire or your wheel is a little bit frozen on because of the aluminum, just give it some good kicks and break it loose and then you can remove the tire.
We're going to start by putting some lubricant on the ends of the bolts so that the nuts actually come off from the front and the back side. We have an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket to the top of the end link. The 18-mm wrench goes on the back; the socket goes on the front and then you've just got to use your muscles to tear it apart. I'm just going to speed up here as we remove that nut the rest of the way. Now, we can just pull the end link out. Once we remove the end link from the strut, you can go down to the bottom and you can start working on the bottom bolt. On the bottom of the end link there's not enough room to get a big ratchet like this in, so you have to use a wrench on both sides. Ideally a ratcheting wrench would be great but when in a pinch, you can just use two regular wrenches. Put an 18mm on one side and an 18mm on the other just like the top and you just break it loose. Unfortunately there is really no easier way. You just go 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn at a time, and eventually you get that nut off.
We'll put the bottom one in first. I'm just going to speed it up here as I tighten up those two nuts. They should be tightened up to around 55 to 60 foot-pounds but you don't have to torque them. This is not an integral component. Just as long as you get them nice and tight with the wrenches or the socket and ratchet. Put your wheel back on and start all your lug nuts just by hand first, and then, while the vehicle is still in the air, just preliminarily tighten them with your socket and ratchet or as I'm doing, with my impact wrench. Now, again, use your torque wrench and you want to tighten your lug nuts between 95 and 100 foot-pounds and use a star pattern as you tighten.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA59132
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