Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper ball joint on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL and we show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper ball joint from 1AAuto.com; flat blade screwdriver; 10, 15, and 19 millimeter socket and ratchet; 15 millimeter wrench; hammer; punch; snap ring pliers, depending on the condition of your old ring around your ball joint; razor; ball joint press; jack and jack stands; and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts that way. We have air tools so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands to remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire.
Using a pry bar or a large flat blade screwdriver, just insert it in between the axle and the axle housing and just hammer it to separate the axle. Now, remove this clip here, and ours is broken so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you just pry the clip open with the flat blade screwdriver. There's a rotating ring that holds the ball joint in. You want to use a punch and a hammer and you can see we do it before we release the upper control arm. You want to get that retaining ring out. Next, remove these two 10 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Just pull the wheel knuckle forward and just make sure your axle pulls free and then support your wheel knuckle with wire ties or string just so that it's not being supported by those harnesses. We're just going to cut off this boot around the ball joint.
With this little tool, we'll be able to press on the hard part of the ball joint and we actually have the augment ours with another little attachment. Then this cup goes around the outside of the ball joint there. Put the press on here. Now, the press will be pushing around the edge of the ball joint and down into the cup and the cup is holding. It's not hitting the ball joint. It's holding around the steering knuckle. It's very important that you line everything up straight. Go nice and slow. You can see the ball joint has been pushed down and out.
Take your new ball joint and push it up into place. Push that up in. You need a sleeve to go up on top and this can just contact right against the bottom of your ball joint. We use the press to push the ball joint up and in and sometimes it helps to just use a hammer. You put a lot of pressure on with the press then use the hammer to get the ball joint, and seed it all the way in. If your old ring is still in good condition, just hit it back into place. Otherwise, use snap ring pliers and put the new snap ring into place.
Push the wheel knuckle back and then just push your upper control arm down on to the ball joint and hammer it down the rest of the way and just slide that bolt through. Replace the nut and make sure you remove your wire ties or string. Push the axle back into place. We'll fast forward as Mike tightens this up. Torque this to 50 foot-pounds. Twist the grease fitting into place and tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. If you have a grease gun, just top it off. Then, just put the bolts back into place and re-clip your harness. Our clip is broken so we're just going to use a wire tie and then just tighten up those two 10 millimeter bolts.
Replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, tighten the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Once you have them torqued, replace you cap then you should be all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.
Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.
Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.
I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.
Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front strut on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We'll show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this include a new front strut from 1AAuto.com, 10mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket, a ratchet, piece of pipe for extra leverage, a 15mm and 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, jack and jack stands, pry bar, and a 4.5mm Allen wrench. We recommend that if you replace the strut on one side, that you do it on the other side as well.
Start off by prying off your hub cap, and then just loosen out this 35mm nut. Now, loosen the lug nuts in a crossing pattern. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up, then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now, the wheel will pull off.
Now, you want to remove these two 17mm bolts. You can see Mike is using an 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the inside. It will just make it easier to remove that bolt. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper, and then you can just set that aside. Now, pry out your brake pads. Now, you want to remove these two 18mm bolts. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does that. You can see, he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help brake those bolts free. Once those are removed, the bracket will pull right off. If your rotor doesn't slide right off then you may just want to tap it with a hammer, turn it, and then hit it again with a hammer.
Right, so if you have trouble getting the rotor off, it actually has press holes. You would get a bolt that's the proper size. I believe this is an M12 bolt. Use two bolts, thread them into those holes. As you tighten them up, they press against the hub and push the rotor off.
To get your axle out, maybe use a pry bar or some other the long item. You will put it up, in, and put it on the back of the axle right where it connects to the transmission or the axle, I should say. Make sure you're hitting the metal and it comes right out.
If you want to do the driver's side, you'll need to remove these four 15mm bolts and pull this panel down in order to access it. Using a 15mm socket, ratchet, and wrench, just remove this bolt. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, using a hammer, just hit the upper control line off the ball joint. Now, just pry open this clip and pull the harness free. You want to secure your caliper to somewhere out of the way, so we'll just wire-tie it right here on to the back end plate.
Now, you want to remove these 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, just lift up on the upper control arm, pull this back, and make sure that the axle is loosened. Pull your axle the rest of the way out of the differential. You step around a little bit, and you can get it going up in. Just got to ankle it up, get it going up and in a little bit from the hub. Careful with all of your ABS wires, hoses and stuff.
Just spray this bolt right here on your sway bar link with some penetrating oil. Then, using a 15mm wrench and a 4.5mm Allen wrench (you can use some other wrench with some extra leverage on the Allen wrench), you want to just separate that nut and remove it. Next, you want loosen up these two 15 mm bolts. Just spray them with some penetrating oil. Then we'll just fast-forward as Mike loosens those up. Just push the wheel knuckle up, and then loosen those just so that they're finger tight and just a few threads on. That will hold the strut in place.
Then you want to remove this 18mm bolt right here. Using your socket, ratchet, and a piece of pipe just brake that free. Once you remove the nut, just tap out the bolt a little bit. You'll notice the brake lines in the way, so you just need to use a pry bar and pry that bolt out the rest of the way. Just lift up on the wheel knuckle, and then that will allow you to pull that out.
Spray some penetrating oil around the base of the strut, and then just hammer the wheel knuckle off with the strut. To keep the wheel knuckle from going all over the place, we're just going to wire tie it up. If you do this, you want to make sure that it's still kind of loose so you can still move the upper control arm up and down. Then remove those two 15mm nuts at the top of the strut, and just maneuver the strut down and out.
On the bottom is the old strut; above it is the new strut from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Feed your new strut up into place. Then once you get the studs through, just replace those two 15mm nuts to hold it in place. Place a jack underneath the lower control arm. I've also got the lift where you have jack stands next to the vehicle. Just line up the strut and jack up the control arm into the strut. We will fast-forward as Mike tightens up that bolt. Now, just torque this bolt to 90 foot-pounds. Tighten up those two 15mm nuts and torque them to 50 foot-pounds.
We'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the nut in the sway bar. Using his 4.5 mm Allen wrench and his wrench, he's going to tighten that back up. As you're tightening up that final bit, make sure you have a wrench between the Allen wrench and the sway bar so you can still remove the Allen wrench from that bolt. Then just clip those wire ties if you ended up using them. Be careful not to hit wires. I just set it right into the hub and pull it, staying up around, and get it all the way into the hub. Then pull on it and feed it into the axle. Careful with the seal. You want to put that in, just doing a kind of back up in place that you go. Do not overextend. Just put that in place and push your axle right in and make sure it's locked.
Now, replace your brake line bracket in the two 10mm bolts to hold it into place. You want to just use the upper control arm to hold the wheel knuckle in place while you're doing this. Re-clip this harness. Now, hammer your upper control arm back down into the old one. Replace the bolt and the nut and tighten them up. You want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub. Then you just slide your rotor back into place and replace the lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place. You can then just start twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up.
Now, torque these two bolts to 110 foot-pounds. Torque each of these to 110 foot-pounds and then just replace your brake pads. If there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease. Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now, torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds.
Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place. Then put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Now, torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot-pounds. Then replace your hub cap.
After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms out. Then you want to do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
