★★★★★
January 29, 2026
Great for the price!
Fit very well and was easy to install. I would have liked to have grease fittings.
Replaces
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front CV axle shaft on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, 10mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a 15mm and 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, jack and jack stands, and a pry bar.
Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then just loosen up this 35mm nut. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to take this nut off all the way at this point. Now, you can loosen your lug nuts as well. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull off.
The next few clips, we remove the brakes. You don't have to do this, but in my opinion it does make it easier to see back in there and get the axle out. There are two 17mm bolts that you remove to remove the caliper, hold the caliper slides with an 18mm wrench, and then pry the caliper up and off. You'll want to secure it somewhere with wire ties so that you don't stress the brake line.
Then you can remove your brake pads. Two 18mm bolts hold the caliper bracket in place. Again, you don't really have to do this, but it just helps to be able to see back in there with the rotor out of the way. Remove the two 18mm bolts using a pipe for some extra leverage, and do this slowly and smoothly so you don't break any knuckles or anything like that. The caliper bracket comes up and off. Then you can remove your caliper either by using a hammer, careful not to damage the rotor at all. If you have to hammer more than just a medium taps, then you'd want to use a couple of M12 bolts. They thread it into the holes in the rotor and help to press the rotor off.
Remove the center hub nut the rest of the way if you haven't already. Using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench, just remove this bolt. Now, using a hammer, just hit the upper control arm off the ball joint. Now, just pry open this clip and pull the harness free. You want to secure your caliper just somewhere out of the way. We just wire-tie it right here onto the backing plate.
Now, you want to remove these two 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, just lift up on the upper control arm and pull this back. Make sure that the axle is loosened from the hub. Okay, to get your axle out, you need to use a pry bar or some other long item. You want to put it up in, and put it on the back of the axle right where it connects to the transmission or the axle I should say. Make sure you're hitting the middle and it comes right out. If you want to do the driver's side, you'll need to remove these four 15mm bolts to pull this panel down in order to access it.
Pull your axle the rest of the way out of the differential. Move stuff around a little bit and then get it going up. I'm just going to angle it up a little bit and get it going up, in, and remove it from the hub. Careful of all your ABS wires and hoses and stuff, eventually it comes out. Up top is the old axle; below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Move the new axle up and in. Again, be careful of all your wires. I just feed it right into the hub. Pull it, move, just maneuver a little bit, and get all the way into your hub. Then pull on it and feed it into the axle. Careful with the seal. You want to put the steering knuckle back up in place as you go so you don't over extend the CB. I'm just going to put that in place, push your axle right in, and make sure it's locked.
Now replace your brake line bracket and the 10mm bolts that hold it into place. You just want to use the upper control arm to hold the wheel knuckle in place while you're doing this. Re-clip this harness. Now hammer your upper control arm back down into the ball joint. Replace the bolt and the nut and tighten them up. You want to tighten and then torque this nut and bolt combination to 55 to 60 foot-pounds.
You want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub. Then you just slide your rotor back into place and replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place and then just start twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Torque these two bolts to 110 foot pounds. Torque each of these to 110 foot pounds. Then just replace your brake pads and if there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease.
Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds. Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place, and then put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Now torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot-pounds. Then replace your hub cap.
After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 15mm and 21mm wrenches, a hammer, torque wrench, pliers, and jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, removed the lug nuts, and removed the wheel and tire.
Next, spray some penetrating oil on this 15mm bolt and then remove it using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench. Now, remove this clip here. Ours is broken, so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you would just pry the clip open with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, just pry this clip open and pull the harness free. You just use a flat blade screwdriver. Push in on the tab and it'll open up. Hit the upper control arm with a hammer to break it free. Hit it up and off the ball joint. Now, you want to secure your wheel knuckle. We're just going to use some wire ties to secure it. You could also use string or wire. You just want to make sure it's not going to move around too much.
Next, you want to remove these two 21mm bolts at the top of the control arm. Start off using a 21mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage. Just break both bolts free. Now we'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts.You won't be able to remove them entirely, but you only need to remove them so that the bolt is not sticking out past the bushing. Sometimes, the bolts may get jammed and not move as far as you need them to. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You want to hit just underneath the upper control arm. The,n you can slide down the front and then remove that bolt the rest of the way by hand. Then angle it and remove the other bolt by hand. If it's jammed in there, you only really need one out. You can angle it and pull it out. Then just use a hammer to remove that other bolt.
As you can see, this upper control arm is in bad shape. You shouldn't have that much play. Now, just pry this clip out using a small flat blade screwdriver. On the right is the old upper control arm.
On the left is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push the back bolt in first and angle it into place. Tip the front of the upper control arm down and put the other bolt in. Then, angle it up into place. Then, just start both of those bolts in by hand until it secures the upper control arm into place. To start off, this bolt at the front, you won't be able to actually get the wrench onto it so just use a pair of pliers to tighten it in a little bit until you can get the wrench on it. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens both of those 21mm bolts up. You're only really tightening these preliminarily.
Remove whatever you used to secure your wheel knuckle. Using a hammer, knock the upper control arm back down onto the ball joint and replace that 15mm bolt and the nut. Then just tighten it up and torque it to 15 foot-pounds. Push your clip into your new upper control arm. Re-clip the harness into it. Re-clip the harness into the clip on the wheel knuckle. Again, since ours is broken, we're just going to use a wire tie.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Have your vehicle back down on the ground with all the weight back on the suspension. Now you tighten up the two bolts that hold the control arm in and you want to tighten them to about roughly a hundred foot-
pounds. I'm pulling them as tight as I can with that wrench. Then, the last thing you want to do is you do want to have your alignment checked and fixed after you perform this repair.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.
Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.
Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.
I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.
Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 15mm and 21mm wrenches, a hammer, torque wrench, pliers, and jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, removed the lug nuts, and removed the wheel and tire.
Next, spray some penetrating oil on this 15mm bolt and then remove it using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench. Now, remove this clip here. Ours is broken, so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you would just pry the clip open with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, just pry this clip open and pull the harness free. You just use a flat blade screwdriver. Push in on the tab and it'll open up. Hit the upper control arm with a hammer to break it free. Hit it up and off the ball joint. Now, you want to secure your wheel knuckle. We're just going to use some wire ties to secure it. You could also use string or wire. You just want to make sure it's not going to move around too much.
Next, you want to remove these two 21mm bolts at the top of the control arm. Start off using a 21mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage. Just break both bolts free. Now we'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts.You won't be able to remove them entirely, but you only need to remove them so that the bolt is not sticking out past the bushing. Sometimes, the bolts may get jammed and not move as far as you need them to. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You want to hit just underneath the upper control arm. The,n you can slide down the front and then remove that bolt the rest of the way by hand. Then angle it and remove the other bolt by hand. If it's jammed in there, you only really need one out. You can angle it and pull it out. Then just use a hammer to remove that other bolt.
As you can see, this upper control arm is in bad shape. You shouldn't have that much play. Now, just pry this clip out using a small flat blade screwdriver. On the right is the old upper control arm.
On the left is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push the back bolt in first and angle it into place. Tip the front of the upper control arm down and put the other bolt in. Then, angle it up into place. Then, just start both of those bolts in by hand until it secures the upper control arm into place. To start off, this bolt at the front, you won't be able to actually get the wrench onto it so just use a pair of pliers to tighten it in a little bit until you can get the wrench on it. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens both of those 21mm bolts up. You're only really tightening these preliminarily.
Remove whatever you used to secure your wheel knuckle. Using a hammer, knock the upper control arm back down onto the ball joint and replace that 15mm bolt and the nut. Then just tighten it up and torque it to 15 foot-pounds. Push your clip into your new upper control arm. Re-clip the harness into it. Re-clip the harness into the clip on the wheel knuckle. Again, since ours is broken, we're just going to use a wire tie.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Have your vehicle back down on the ground with all the weight back on the suspension. Now you tighten up the two bolts that hold the control arm in and you want to tighten them to about roughly a hundred foot-
pounds. I'm pulling them as tight as I can with that wrench. Then, the last thing you want to do is you do want to have your alignment checked and fixed after you perform this repair.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA56258
Fit very well and was easy to install. I would have liked to have grease fittings.
Came quick with everything needed and all fit well
