2001 Toyota Camry L4 2.2L To 6/30/01 Production Date Front & Rear 12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA59707

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front lower control arm in this Toyota Camry. This one is a 1998, but the procedure is pretty much the same for 1992 to 2001. You'll need a new front lower control arm from 1AAuto.com, 12 to 22 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extension, a torque wrench, breaker bar, pry bar and jack and jack stands.

Break all your lug nuts loose while the vehicle's still on the ground. You're going to need a 21mm socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle, line it up with the pinch weld, jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath. Making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire, or whatever you have to do under the vehicle. Install your jack stand onto this unibody frame rail under the vehicle. If you need to work on the rear of the vehicle, put your jack stand underneath and just ahead of the lower control arm here, right by the tow point. Once the weight is on your stands, give the vehicle a little shake, and make sure that they're on there secure. Repeat these steps on the opposite side. Make sure that you bring the vehicle up so that when it sits on the other set of jack stands, the vehicle will be level. You can now lower your vehicle onto the stands on this side.

With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hubcap off. Remove your wheel from the hub. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.

Remove the three 17 millimeters holding the lower ball joint bracket in: two nuts and bolt. We use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet. Using a pry bar, I'm going to go in between the ball joint bracket and the control arm, pry down, and release the ball joint bracket from the lower control arm.

Behind the steering knuckle on the sub frame, we remove these two bolts holding the front portion of the lower control arm in place. Use a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar to start them and finish removing them with a ratchet. Remove the bolt for the rear lower control arm bushing with a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. After removing the bolt, use a long pry bar to pry the bushing out of the sub frame. You may have to move this a few different ways, and possibly pry up on the sway bar to release it from the vehicle.

You can see our old part and our new part are exactly the same. Our new part comes with new bushings in both the rear and the front. We have the same three-bolt pattern on both sides to reinstall our ball joint into the control arm. They're both the same size and shape. This provision on our new control arm is for a sway bar that's not applicable to our Camry. It may apply to three liter Camrys or perhaps Solaras and other models. You can simply remove that with two, 14 millimeter nuts on the back, we'll show you how to do that a little bit later. Some common problems with these are they get damaged during accidents. They can be bent or misshapen from hitting heavy potholes or bad roadwork. The bushings – as you can see ours is over here – begin to slide out of the actual control arm as well. You can see it's getting a little torn up and separated in the front here too. That can cause a control arm to not track straight. It will actually push back toward the vehicle when you're driving forward. It can cause shaking, clunking, all kinds of noise, tire wear, alignment issues, you name it. If your old control arm has rusted, bent or tweaked in some way, or your bushings are loose and causing vibrations, noise and other problems, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in, direct fit, just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Install the rear bushing of the control arm into the sub frame, line it up, and start your bolt. Swing the control arm into position. Use a pry bar, if you have to, to line it up. Start the bolts. The longer of the two goes in the rear hole, and the shorter in the front. With all your other bolts started, pry down on the control arm, push the ball joint into place, start your 17 millimeter bolts and nuts.

Start the 17 millimeter nuts on the bottom until the centering sleeve is gone into the new control arm. Once the centering sleeves are in place, start the bolt, finish tightening down your ball joint bracket. Torque the hardware to 94 foot-pounds. Finish tightening the two, 19 millimeter bolts on the front bushing of the lower control arm. Torque all the 19 millimeter bolts to 152 foot-pounds. Finish tightening down the rear bushing bolt. Torque it to 152 foot-pounds.

Reinstall your wheel and tire. Start your lug nuts. Check that they're all seated. Jack up on your pinch weld. Be sure that where you jack isn't going to interfere with your ability to remove the jack stands. Bring the vehicle up until it's off the stands. Remove your stands from under the vehicle. With the stands clear, lower the vehicle. Move to the other side, and repeat these steps. If you've removed the tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76ftlb in a cross pattern. Then you can remove your jack the rest of the way. To reinstall your hubcap, align this notch with the valve stem on the wheel. Snap it back into place.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!

In this video, we are going to be working with our 98 Toyota Camry. We are going to show you how to remove and replace your front sway bar link. We happen to be doing this on the passenger side, but the process is the same as the drivers as well.

You want to replace this part as a pair. These are known to get a little bit of play in them and create a clicking or a popping sound as your vehicle transfers weight left and right and loads and unloads that sway bar. You can check them by placing a pry bar underneath and pushing up on the link and seeing if the joints move smoothly or if you can see a gap where the actually sway bar moves before the joint picks up and starts to pivot with it.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more info on this car, as well as many other makes and models. If you want this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link in the description over to 1A Auto.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 14-21mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, torque wrench, locking pliers, breaker bar, jack, and jack stands.

Break all your lug nuts loose while the vehicle is still on the ground. Going to need a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Install your jack under the vehicle. Line it up with the pinch weld. Jack the vehicle up high enough that you can get a stand underneath. Making sure you have enough clearance to remove your tire or do whatever you have to do under the vehicle. Install your jack stand onto this uni body frame rail under the vehicle. With the vehicle raised and supported, remove your lug nuts the rest of the way. If you need a little more room to work, you can pull the hub cap off. Remove your wheel from the hub. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands.

To remove the sway bar link, we'll use a small pair of locking jaw plyers to grab on to the back side of the joint here and a 14 millimeter sock and ratchet to remove the nut. We'll push it out of the strut and use the same steps to remove the nut and stud on the bottom side at the sway bar. Remove the stud of the sway bar link from the strut and remove your locking jaw pliers. Remove the sway bar from the vehicle.

Here we have our old part that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1A Auto.com. As you can see, these parts are identical, same length, we have the same angle, on the heads of the sway bar here there is a right and left of these. This one happens to be the right. Comes with new nuts, with a nylon lock strip inside of them. What happens to these sway bar links is the inside of this joint is a ball and socket joint, much the same as your tie rod or your ball joint is in the front suspension.

It becomes warn out and allows up and down travel inside of that joint which creates a clicking sound and a little bit of play when that weight transfer gets moved from sway bar to sway bar. You can check these by placing a pry bar underneath them and just wiggling it up and down and they should move nice and fluid together. If you see one has the joint moving up before the stud starts to flex, that's a good indicator that you have a bad sway bar link.

This new part from 1A Auto goes in direct fit just like your original equipment does. It'll get your vehicle handling and transferring weight correctly as well as getting rid of those annoying sounds and fix you up right.

Install the bottom of the sway bar link into the sway bar first. We'll put the nut on a couple of threads. These new nuts are 17 millimeter, so we'll be installing them with a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet. Once you have the bottom threaded on by hand, push the top in and start that nut as well. Now these are at kind of an odd angle at first but as we tighten the nuts up, it's going to straighten out and sit where it's supposed to. Remember to clamp your vise grips onto the back side. Be careful not to tear the boots as these are the new parts, so we want to try not to damage them. Go ahead and tighten the nuts down. Torque the sway bar link nuts to 29 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wheel and tire. Tighten down the nuts. Put the vehicle onto the ground. Check that they are all seated. If you've removed the tire, only lower the vehicle until the wheel touches the ground. With partial weight of the vehicle on the ground, torque your lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Then, you can remove your jack the rest of the way.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to be working on our 1998 Toyota Camry. We're going to be showing you how to remove and reinstall the rear sway bar links. These are small ball and socket joints, very similar to your ball joint. When these go bad, they can get up and down play in them that they're not designed to have, which can create a clicking or clunking sound going over big bumps, or as there's a difference in weight transfer from the left and right sides of the vehicle. This can also cause some sloppiness when cornering. That little bit of play will allow these to travel in and out before the sway bar starts to twist up and control the body roll of the vehicle in a corner. If you're having an issue with handling or some strange clicking and clunking sounds under the vehicle, this may be your solution.

If you like this video, please click "subscribe." We have a ton more info on this car, as well as many other makes and models. If you want these sway bar links for your vehicle, follow the link in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Grab onto the hub cap and remove it from the wheel. We're going to use a 21 mm socket and breaker bar to remove all five lug nuts. We'll crack them loose now, raise and support the vehicle, and then finish removing the lugs. We've put our vehicle on a lift to make it easier to film for you, but this job can be easily done with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire.

Place a pair of locking pliers around the back side of the sway bar. Use a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove the nut on the other side. Remove the sway bar link and the locking pliers. Lock a pair of vise grips the same way, onto the back of the joint at the bottom. Take the nut off with the 14 millimeter socket and ratchet. Before starting this, we soaked our hardware in penetrating oil to make removal more easy. Remove the nut and the sway bar link. If you've got your vise grips on there tight, you can use the end of the ratchet to spread them open and get them off of there.

Here we have our old sway bar link that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, they're the exact same length. The heads are skewed in the exact same direction. These are not directional, by the way. You can use these on the right or the left side, though we always recommend you replace them in pairs. They come with new nuts on them. What happens to these is: this is a ball and socket joint, just like your ball joint is on the front end of your vehicle. They develop up and down play in them eventually, where this socket actually gets bigger than the ball and it can click up and down. This causes some noises going over bumps, as well as issues with handling. If your car isn't handling like it's supposed to or has some clicking or clunking sounds going over bumps, these new parts from 1AAuto are going to go in, direct fit, just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Remove the new nuts from your sway bar link, and install them into the sway bar, and into your strut. Start them on by hand, and then we'll clamp the back sides the same way we did when we removed them, with a pair of vise grips. Just be careful not to tear the boots. These new hardware are 17 millimeter, so we'll be using a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 29 foot-pounds. Repeat these steps on the opposite side, and you're good to go.

Reinstall the wheel and tire. Get all the lug nuts down as tight as you can by hand. Lower the vehicle carefully back onto the wheel and tire. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Line up the notch in the hubcap over the valve stem, and tap the hubcap back into place.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.