2006 Ford Focus Rear Brake Shoes TRQ BFA73648

Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today I'm working on a 2001 Ford Focus, and I want to show you how to do a rear brake job. It's going to be a very easy job. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do it.

If you need these, or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

So, now that we've raised and supported the vehicle, we're going to remove these lug nuts, 19 millimeter. See if I can get it off. That's what it looks like.

Okay, if your wheel's stuck on, you can just take something like a long pry bar, and you're just going to use a little bit of leverage. I like to find a nice, solid spot, go up against the wheel. You can use a rag if you want, if you've got nice wheels. Purpose of this video, I'm not going to worry about it, just going to go like this, little bit of leverage, there we are, broke free. Give it a spin. Cool, should be ready to come up.

We got some corroded wheels here. That's what happens with aluminum wheels. Make sure your lug nut's on a couple threads so your wheel doesn't go flying. Just try it again, that doesn't do it, my name's not Len. Easy, my name's Len.

Okay, so one of our next steps, we've got our drum area here. You've got this cover. To get this cover off, you're going to use a screwdriver, or a punch if you need to, a hammer. You're going to go right along the edge right here, of the drum and the cover, just bonk, bonk, bonk, knock it in, peel this off.

When you do that, it's going to peen this cover, so you're going to want to make sure that you have some sort of sealant, maybe some RTV, or whatever you might have. You could try to bend it back, but the odds that you're going to get it back to nice and smooth isn't really that good. So, you want to make sure you have some RTV ready, because you're going to need to reseal this, keep the water out.

So, here we go, couple little bonks, pry it. Here's our cover. So, this is what I'm talking about. When we bonked it in, we peened it over. Like I said, you can try to straighten it out. If you don't get it straight, this is what's going to happen. You get a lot of rust in there, water can get into your bearing area and cause issues.

So, now what we're going to do is we're going to use a 30 millimeter socket, and we're going to take off this nut right here.

Let's see if the drum wants to work its way off. Seems like it's got a little bit of movement. Use a pry bar, go in between the backing plate and the drum. See if I can get it to walk. You're just going to have to keep going around in a circle here.

As I pry out on this side it pushes this side down, so I'm going to grab something else to try to pry on, and I'm going to try to go at the same time. Let's see if I can get it, if not, we'll try something different. Got a couple different things to pry with. Make sure you're wearing your safety glasses, of course, just in case things come flying off you want to make sure you're safe.

What's happening here is right in here there's a stud for your axle shaft. It's not a rotating axle, but it's just a stub shaft. Anyway, the bearing itself is pressed into the drum, and that slides over the stub shaft of the axle.

When it goes over and sits there for a long period of time, probably about as long as this thing's been around, it doesn't want to come off. So, can use some penetrant in there. I tried it, now I'm just going to try to work it. Doesn't seem like much is happening here.

So, I'm just taking my pry bar, got my little hammer tip on there so it's safe for me to hammer, safety glasses and hand protection as always, and I'm just kind of going on the lip of the drum, and I'm just trying to give it a couple bonks. And then I come over to the other side to do the same thing, then I go back over there. Just walking this drum off.

As I do that, the bearing's coming off of the stub. As you can see, it slid out a little bit. So, looks like we're moving in the right direction here.

Your situation may be different. It might just come right off. I hope so.

Little bit of prying action here. We're switching up our techniques. Cool, here's our rear drum. That's the bearings in there. They come with the rear drum assembly.

Now that we've got the drum off, it's important to inspect your wheel cylinder for functionality, okay? The best way to do that, if you wanted to grab your shoes, give them a little wiggle by hand. Sometimes it's a little tight that way. I just use my pry bar, I go up against the backing plate in the shoe, because I'm replacing the shoe. If I'm not replacing the shoe you want to be very careful not to damage it. This is junk, so I'm going to replace it.

You just go like that, can move it around. Yeah, I'd say the wheel cylinder feels good. If, for some reason, your shoes couldn't move, and these right here were stuck, you would have to replace the wheel cylinder.

Now that we've done that, it's also important to do something like this, clean out some of the crud around here. I'm going to clean it up better later, but anyway, take your same pry bar, go right between the metal part of the wheel cylinder and the boot, you should be able to get it to lift up and pull it away.

Take a peek in there, see if you see any grease. Grease is okay, little bit of lubricant's always nice, but if you see a puddle of fluid, brake fluid, that's an issue. If you'll open this up a little like this and brake fluid comes dripping out all over the ground, that's an even bigger issue. Obviously you don't want to pollute the ground, but secondarily that you have a fluid leak at your wheel cylinder.

So, you would check this one, you would come over here, do the same to the other side. There's little pistons inside this that push out when you step on your brake pedal, and that's what expands the shoes. This side looks good a well. We'll close that back up, make sure it's sealed all the way around, try to keep as much debris out of there as possible.

So yeah, you step on your brake, it forces fluid through your lines, through your hose, all the way down to your wheel cylinder. It fills this up, it expands it, pushes your shoes out against the drum, causes friction, helps your vehicle stop, or makes your vehicle stop, I guess you'd say.

This right here is your e-brake lever, or emergency brake lever. When you pull on your e-brake, it tugs on this right here, and then it expands your shoe out, hits up against your drum, causes friction, causes you to stop.

So, we got all that right there. We're going to take all this apart, and I'll show you how to do a rear brake job.

Okay, so now we're going to grab our new parts, Quality 1A auto parts. We're just going to compare them to what we have in the vehicle before we go ahead and tear this down. This is super important, because if you get the wrong part, you need to know now, because it's easy to just put the drum back on, and the wheel back on, and get back to where you need to be.

So, let's grab a new shoe, we'll line it up. Looks like it matches up perfectly, super important. Comes with a new e-brake pivot there, we have the other shoe, not that you should have to match this one up as well, but that looks great.

We've got brand new quality hardware here. Let's make sure we have all the same springs. We got this one right here, yeah. Got this one right here, it goes across there. Looks good. And then we got this little one right here, yeah. Okay, and we've got all our pins and clips, perfect.

Last thing, drum, looks about the same, yeah. Okay, let's move along.

You can start wherever you want. We know we have new hardware. It's completely up to you if you'd like to cut the springs, or if you just want to try to pry them and get them off. The good thing about prying them and taking them off is that if something happens and maybe you lose a spring, somewhere down the line, out of your new package, you can reuse the old one, if it's in good condition.

So, wear your safety glasses, hand protection. Grab some cutters, even if you're not cutting it, they grip on good to the spring. Grab it, give it a tug, should slide right out. That's what it looks like, just got a little hook. So, when it was in, I grabbed it, I gave it a tug, I pulled it right out, easy peasy.

This one right here is a little bit harder to get to because it has a little flippy-doo that goes up in there, so I'm not going to worry about this one yet. We're going to move ahead to this one. This one right here.

To get it off without breaking it is kind of a struggle. Where I know I have brand new springs, and I'm really not worried about it, I'm just going to cut it, okay? If you don't want to cut it, you can try to struggle. You can try to grab onto it somehow, some way, push it over. It's completely up to you. It's your prerogative. You do you, boo boo.

I'm going to cut it. I've got my safety glasses on in case metal flies. There we are. We'll get this out of the way. That's what it looks like. It's got a little hooky-doo, goes in there, this side right here should look about the same.

Okay, we're cruising right along here, can take our shoes, we can move them around. This piece right here, it's super easy to get off, just use your pry bar and your hammer, get it lined up so it's going straight down, and give it a little loving bonk. There we are.

The shoe should be ready to come off. We'll get this out of the way. We've got our pin, can remove that, just comes through the backing plate right there. That's what it looks like. We'll hold onto this.

This right here is the adjustment. I'll take that off in one second. I'll show you how. First we're going to remove this. I don't have to over explain that.

These clips right here are actually really nice, by the way. Anyway.

Cool, okay, we'll pull the shoe out like this. Now, this is a little bump right here. That's meant to get caught right there. When you want to relieve it, all you do is, you know, hand protection, of course, slide it like this, bring it to the hole, and pull it out, okay?

So, there's that assembly. This is going to come right off, just like that. You just grip it, rip it, and there you are. This is the adjustment assembly. We're going to clean this up and lube it. It's going to be working perfectly by the time we're done. We'll get our last pin out of here.

We want to make sure we clean up this backing plate the best we can, get off all these rust flakes that we can. You don't want anything flopping around in this drum by the time we're done. You get a big flake, falls down between the shoe and the drum as you're driving, you're going to get a scraping noise, you should ruin your brand new shoes. It's going to be an issue. So, take your time, clean it up the best you can.

So, here we are, friends, a quick product comparison for you. Over here we have our old 2001 Ford Focus rear drum and rear shoes. We're doing the rear brake job on it, right? These are the shoes. This is the drum.

Over here we have our brand new Quality 1A Auto parts. As you can tell, they're in much better condition. Well, obviously, I mean, these are brand new. I don't really have to say that.

But, I'll show you the shoes. Here we have brand new shoes. We can match them up with the old shoes, everything matches up exactly, okay? Same exact shape. We've got a new e-brake pivot arm there same as the old one. Kind of a rickety sled, but it is what it is.

We have our drums, right? Brand new Quality 1A Auto. We'll slide it over. As you can tell, we have a big difference here. The difference would be this one right here is what I would deem un-reusable, mostly because the time that it's going to take me to clean up around this edge, which is the edge along where the backing plate rides, so I clean that up enough to the point where it won't make any noise, any scraping, or anything like that, it's going to be just wasting my time, okay?

Another thing to consider is the fact that when you get the new drums, they come with the bearings pre-installed, which is super important, because the bearings that are in these, they've been around for a long, long time. This bearing right here wobbles all around. It's just ridiculous. This one right here, you get a little bit of movement, once you tighten them up, it's going to tighten up nice and snug, and everything's going to feel great.

For only a couple dollars more, I would definitely go with new parts. They match up the exact same, same diameter, okay? You've got four lug studs, super important. Bearing, like I said, is pressed right in there. You don't have to worry about anything.

With all that said, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be quality parts to install into this vehicle, so I'm going to go ahead and do it. So, if you need these, or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Okay, so now it's time to clean down our backing plate area, can use a couple simple things, such as a wire brush, can use a little pry bar, whatever you want to do to clean it up, okay? It's important to remember that right along this stub axle right here there's a little rubber seal. You don't want to damage that.

If you do happen to look at it and it has some cracks or anything like that, you're going to want to take care of that. This one looks like it's in good condition, so I'm not going to worry about it. When I go to use some parts cleaner, I'm going to do my best to try to avoid this area so I don't swell the rubber. So, let's get busy.

Is this going to look perfect by the time I'm done? Probably not, but I'm going to give it a try here.

Okay, so now that we've got this cleaned up the best we could, you know, I'm not a miracle worker or anything, but anyway, now that we've got it fairly cleaned up, I don't have any big flakes anywhere, I wanted to point out to you these little dimpled areas on the backing plate.

These are contact points, okay? It's important to put a little bit of lubrication there. Essentially, when your shoe is on, and it's all mounted up, the shoe has these little areas that are supposed to sit up against the backing plate. Those areas should have a little bit of lubrication, that way there moisture doesn't sit in between there and cause rust swelling, push your shoe like this, and that will cause braking issues, okay? So, basically it just sits along these.

What I like to do is I'll use a little bit of caliper grease, or just brake grease, really, and I'll just put a little bit on there, doesn't have to be too much. I like to go right along here, that's another contact point for where the shoes ride.

There we are, just make sure we get all these, there are six contact points along the backing plate, and then, of course, you have the bottom area, there's two there, and then, why not, little bit right there, okay? That looks pretty great to me. Sure we don't have any big globs of grease lying around that are going to get rubbed up against the meat of the shoe.

Okay, make sure this is all nice and cleaned up, we don't have any big globs of grease anywhere around here. I think that looks pretty great. We can move along. We'll grab our shoes, and we'll start mounting them up.

So, this right here is your adjuster for your rear shoes. A lot of times what you'll notice is this will be frozen. You won't be able to move it.

The way that this works is there's these little grooves right here, and there's little grooves on this right here. When you step on your brake, the shoes will shift, if they're loose. When they shift, this thing moves. Let's see if I can, let me get the spring off first. This just comes right off, just like that, okay? That should be able to move. Okay.

So, let's say your shoes are all the way de-adjusted right now, that means they're at their closest point, right? You step on the brake, your shoes can shift. That spring right there is going to pull on this, and it's going to make it so this thing can keep moving, okay? It's going to shift, move, move, and it's going to keep ratcheting, sitting in these grooves, until it separates far enough that your shoes don't shift anymore, okay?

So, the way that you would adjust this is you would get it close, obviously, when you're putting it together, and then you would get inside the vehicle once the brakes are all together, step on the brake, make sure you have good brakes, okay?

Then you put it in reverse, start going backwards about five miles an hour, and just pull up on your emergency brake, give it a little jerk. The shoes in the back are going to shift. This is going to shift, and it's going to go out to the next ring, and it's going to keep happening until it gets to the point that they're adjusted so they don't shift very much anymore. They're supposed to shift a little bit, but your shoes aren't supposed to shift this much, okay?

So, let's go back over here. If you notice that this doesn't want to move, more than likely it's frozen inside here. You probably have a lot of rust, or rot, or something like that freezing it up. This one's actually in fair condition, so that's nice.

What I do like to do is while it's apart like this we'll clean it up. Can use your little brush, okay? This outer part right here really doesn't matter very much. It's mostly the inner portion of this wheel, right along there, okay? And the inner portion of right here. That's where those two pieces are going to be touching, okay? So, if they get rusted and rotted in between there, they start to swell up, and then this can't do its job. So, you want to clean that up nice, okay?

So, let's say that you've got this cleaned up nice and beautifully, and this looks fairly decent, something else that you want to try to do is get inside that groove right there. If you have a small pocket screwdriver, you could do that, or if you have a little bristle brush you could try to get in there. Just clean that out the best you can. I mean, I don't expect you to get it to be perfectly clear metal or anything, but the best you can. It's always worth it to try to do the best you can on anything you do, really.

I'll bring it down. I'll do this right here. This seems like it's flowing pretty nice. Everything moves as it should.

If yours is really caked on, you can try to use something else, a stronger brush, or even one of those little wizard wheel things that people have. Just clean it up the best you can.

Then we're going to use a little bit of Never Seize. You can use copper. You can use this if you want. It just has to be something that makes it so it doesn't stick, okay? Or freeze up on you. It's important to remember that you want to try to keep this stuff away from your toothed areas, the areas that have all the teeth on them, because we don't need these to really slip around, obviously.

Try to get it right in that groove there. Try to move it. I'll get the other side of the groove real quick. Okay.

I'll just get all along here, because that's where it's going to be rubbing, all up along here, there. Looks like a mess, it's okay. I'm not too worried about it, just as long as it functions, it's going to be inside the drum, nobody can see it, there we are.

Okay, everything's nice and situated, and lubricated. This can move. If this doesn't move, you're going to have an issue with your brakes, so you need to make it move.

Now I'm going to take my spring, it's got a little hooky-doo there, and a little circular area. The hooky-doo just slides right inside this. Then you can take your cutters. You want to be very careful not to cut the spring, obviously. Just grip it, pull it, slide it over that. Slide it all the way down to the bottom there, and this is all set to be installed.

You can go ahead and clean this up if you want. To me personally it's kind of a waste of time. It's just going to accumulate more brake dust, and that's just going to be perfectly natural. I think this is good to go. Let's go ahead and get this installed.

Okay, so theoretically you should have already checked your e-brake to make sure that it holds when you pull up on it, and then it releases, okay? You can check that just as easily as you're, you know, rolling slow in your car. Pull up on the e-brake, the vehicle stops, let off the e-brake, goes again, okay?

Also you can check it with the vehicle off the ground a little bit, you know, give the wheels a little spin, once they get going, pull on the e-brake, they stop, release the e-brake, give it a spin, breaks free, good to go. You know your brake's good, right?

Maybe you haven't done that yet. I guess I probably should have told you that at the beginning, and I'll tell you that now, because now's the time. We have it apart. If we had to replace the e-brake cable, it would be very easy to do at this point.

So, with that said, I'm just going to go inside the vehicle. I want to make sure I don't step on the brake at all, because obviously I'll pop that wheel cylinder out, and that will be a big mess, and we'll have to replace that as well. Not going to touch the brake pedal. We're going to use the emergency brake lever. That's in the center of the vehicle. I probably don't have to say that.

All I'm going to do is pull up on it, check that cable, looks like it's nice and compressed. I can see the springs compressed. I'm going to release it. Yep, looks like it's functioning perfectly.

If yours compressed when you pulled it, and then you released it and it didn't decompress, then you have a cable issue, okay? This would be a perfect time to replace it, because you have the brakes all apart, right? Easy peasy. So, with that said, let's move along with the brake job.

Okay, so we've got our adjuster here, and you know, I just want to show you, if you needed to de-adjust it, this is the de-adjusted phase right here, that little arm in there is nice and close, to adjust it out, just do that, okay? The little gears here. It's easy to do while it's not in the vehicle. When it's in the vehicle, if you needed to, you can just take a screwdriver, go right in between here, and then that will give you the ability to slide it around, okay?

So, that said, we can move ahead. We'll get this started onto the shoe. This is the e-brake side, with the little lever here. We want to use a little bit of Never Seize, just go right along here, just because that's where that arm is going to ride, and if we can help prevent rust from getting in there, that's going to be super helpful.

Okay, so the little coggy wheels, those go down, okay? Doesn't go like this, goes facing down. We're going to use the green springs for the driver's side, and the blue springs for the passenger's side of the vehicle.

We've got our small spring, this one right here, just going to go under this, just like that, okay? Comes through the hole from the bottom up, then this little arm goes inside that lower hole, just squeeze it in, bring it around.

Now we're going to take these two pieces, we're going to try to set this onto there. Watch your fingers for pinch points. There we are, locked and loaded. That looks great, can move around. This can move. We're looking good. Now we're clear to bring this over to the vehicle, and we'll start installing.

So, we've got this all installed here. We've got the e-brake adjustment mechanism mounted onto the rearward shoe. There's a hole here, and a slot. What you want to do, you want to put this through the hole, and then bring the cable through the slot, okay? Bring it right around, just like that.

The way you're going to have to do it, though, I'm going to set this aside where I can easily grab it, I'm going to use some cutters, and I'm not going to be cutting, I'm just going to be grabbing, they grab good, and use some pliers. I'm going to grab the nub. I'm going to put my cutters in between the nub and the spring here, turn them around. Just going to go like this, and then I'm going to hold the cable.

Now I have plenty of space, like I said, I'm not cutting this, to put my cable through the hole. There we are, bring it around. I'm in the slot. I can release the spring. There we go. Set this down, and bring this over. Whoops, gave it too much of a tug there. This is going to sit right in here, just like this, all right?

I'm going to grab a little bit of Never Seize, and I'm going to put it right where that spring rides. You can use caliper grease if you want to, whatever you want to do, really, it's just what I had in my cart right next to me. That's just so every time we use the emergency brake it's going to be able to function, okay? Cool.

So, we've got all this. Now what we're going to do, I've got my clip. I've got my pin. The pin's going to go through the backside of the backing plate, through the hole in the shoe. I'm going to take my clip, the shoe is just going to move around for now. I'm not worried about it. I'm going to take my screwdriver, I'm going to go right in the groove on the clip.

I'm going to be very careful at this point, because it can go flying. I can hurt myself. So, I've got safety glasses, hand protection, and the knowledge that anything can happen here.

Now I'm going to try to turn that pin on the backside, there we are. I want to straighten it out with the groove, just like that. I like to set it right up against the shoe. That looks good. Let's do the other side.

So, we've got our other shoe. We've got our little hooky-doo on the shoe, that goes inside the slot on the bottom of the adjuster. Can tell, should just slide right in here. Want to make sure that it is in there for sure, so, yeah, nice. Whoops.

This is what I was talking about with the adjuster. I just pretty much completely adjusted it out, just by pulling. So, now what I'm going to do is I'm going to stick my screwdriver in here, just like this, and then that's going to make it so I can push it back to where I need to go, okay? So, easy, boop.

I'll hold it where it's suppose to be. I'm going to take my pin, same as before, I'm going to come through the backside, going to put it so it's standing straight up and down, the tip of it. I'll take this, take our small screwdriver, try to get everything lined up, just going to push right along this side here. There we are, see if I can turn that. Even if you can get it a little bit turned to start, usually you can regroup at that point, if you have to. There we are.

Okay, we'll continue on. We can use our upper spring. This one you've got a inward hooky-doo. Excuse me. That goes inside this slot right here. You really can't mix this up, because if you put it this way, it just won't work. So, it goes in this slot, just like this, runs up along the top of this, right up along there, and then it goes into the upper slot on the rearward shoe.

To make this happen, it's going to take a little bit of finagling, a little bit of luck, and hopefully we can get it to happen. I'm just going to hold it with my cutters. I'm going to try to squeeze with this hand, and that's going to do the majority of the work for me here. Okay. It's going to be a little hard.

I want to point something out, too, because it almost just happened to me. When you're pulling on this side, it starts pulling the shoes. When you pull the shoe, you can push this side of the wheel cylinder piston this way, which will, in turn, push this side out.

If you pop this side of the wheel cylinder all the way out, you're going to have fluid come pouring out all over your brand new shoes, and you're probably going to need a new wheel cylinder. Some people will say that you can try to push the plunger back in there, finagle it so it's going to work.

That's completely up to you. I would just replace the wheel cylinder at that point, because brakes are super important, and if you put in that seal wrong, you're going to have a braking issue. And, of course, you're going to have to buy new shoes and everything, so keep that in mind.

So, to continue, we're going to keep trying here. We're going to grab this. I'm going to try to pull it over, and try to get it into that hole that's right back there.

If you're having trouble stretching this spring right here, what you can do is try to de-adjust this even further. So, by squeezing the shoes and sticking your screwdriver in here, you'll be able to squeeze this wheel cylinder, okay? So, I just go like this. Looks like it's fully de-adjusted at this point. Okay. The spring looks like it's a little closer to where we need to be. I'm hopeful it's going to be helpful, don't see how it couldn't be.

I'm going to go back to using my cutters. I'm going to try to pull, and I'm going to remember that if I pull this I could pop this out. Super close, we can do it. It's hard to grab onto it. It's like if I could go like that, that would be much more helpful. Maybe I can go like this.

I'm going to try something a little different. I'm just going to use my pry bar. I'm going to try to force it into the hole, wearing my safety glasses, of course. Oh, that was close. Let's do it again. This is a little easier than using the cutters. My little screwdriver, push it in. There we go, little bit of ingenuity there to get the shoe so it's sitting where it needs to go.

We're going to grab our last spring. The side with the spring area goes on the side with the e-brake arm. I'm just going to start it in that side first, then I'm going to bring it over to this hole. Want to make sure the shoe's sitting inside the groove right here, and it's getting ready to sit in that groove. There we are. Okay. Give everything a little bonk, make sure it's moving like it should.

Perfect. We'll clean this down. I got a little bit of oil and stuff from my hands on there. We'll clean it down. It's going to look nice and pretty, and we'll get ready to install the drum.

Just going to take a little bit of parts cleaner, put it directly on the rag. I'm going to clean the inside braking surface of my drum. Generally speaking, it should come with a little bit of a film on there. It just protects it during shipping and whatnot for moisture control, that's the crud that you get off of there.

Now I'm going to take the drum, just going to slide it over the little stub axle there. Okay. There we are. Drum spins freely. I don't hear any grinding, means I did a pretty good job with that backing plate. I'm happy with that.

We'll take our axle nut. You can use a little bit of thread locker if you want, put it right on the threads of the axle if you want, or on the nut. It's completely up to you. It's kind of your prerogative.

To me, this isn't what I would consider to be a locking nut, so I think that it would be a good idea to use at least a little bit of thread locker. It's completely up to you. I'm just going to grab a little bit real quick and put it right on the threads of the axle there.

I mean, this is going to get torqued down to 173 foot pounds anyway, so theoretically it shouldn't come loose, but for safety's sake I'm just going to blast this on until it bottoms out, and then I'm going to stop, and then I'll torque it down to 173 foot pounds with my 30 millimeter socket.

Good, let's torque it. I'll grab the torque wrench. Okay, let's torque this puppy, 173 foot pounds with a 30 millimeter socket. Give it one more. It's happy there. We'll clean out this ring right along here, just to make sure there's no lubricant in there.

We'll take this. I'm going to clean this up a little bit so I can make sure it's nice and smooth. I'll even try to bend this out a little bit, and then I'm going to use some RTV, or gasket maker. You can either go right along here with it, or you can go right along the edge of this with it, whichever is easier for you, just want to make sure that no moisture can get in there. So, I'm going to fix this up a little bit, and I'll be right back.

Okay. I've got a little bit of RTV here, just going to go right along this lip, sort of. All right, use my finger, going to be a little bit more accurate that way. Essentially, all I want to do is create a seal that makes it so moisture can't get in there, ruin my brake job and my bearing.

Okay, that looks pretty great. Cleaned it up nice, as you can tell. Good job, Len. Thank you.

Give it a couple loving bonks. I think that looks pretty good.

There's the area that was peened over. Although I put some RTV in there, I'll just give it a little bit more. There we go. Okay. Looks good to everybody out there. Clean off the extra. There we are. I'd say we're in pretty good condition.

Now what we want to do is get the wheel on there, get it torqued up. We'll do the other side of the brakes, and then we can hop in it, make sure we have a great brake pedal, and then we'll do like I said before, where we put it in reverse, we just kind of roll back, maybe up to five miles an hour, then just use that e-brake. Roll back, e-brake, it's going to start adjusting out these shoes. That adjuster that we worked on in there is going to start separating, separating, separating, to the point that the shoes won't go any further, and then you should be adjusted up good.

Here we go, we're going to grab the wheel, pull it up to our leg, lift with our leg, not with our back. We're going to hold it, grab our lug nuts. Let's get a couple of them started here.

We're going to use our 19 millimeter. We're going to snug these up. We're going to go in a crisscross pattern. Just make sure that they're bottomed out. Okay. Give it a little spin. Sounds fairly decent. We're going to go ahead and torque these up to 93 foot pounds.

Here we go, it's time to torque these down, 93 foot pounds with our 19 millimeter socket. One, two, here we go, three, four. Feel like you want to go around again, go around again.

Good to go. If you had a center cover, make sure you pop it in there.

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