Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front strut on this 2003 Honda Odyssey. Pretty much the same as any '99-'03. I'm sorry, '99-'04. We show you the passenger side front strut placement. Driver's side is the same. We do always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs, as well as you will need to take your vehicle for an alignment after this repair. You'll need a new set of struts from 1AAuto.com. You'll need a jack and jack stands, 8-22mm sockets. You'll need ratchets for those sockets with a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage for some of the big ones, an 18mm wrench, some penetrating oil, and a flat blade screwdriver.
As you can see here, I've got the vehicle raised up and I'm removing the lug nuts with my impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or your tire iron. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. You can see here I'm kicking the tire. That's basically just a way if your tire or wheel is a little bit frozen on because of the aluminum, just give it some good kicks and break it loose. Then you can remove the tire. We're going to start by putting some lubricant on the ends of the bolts so the nuts actually come off on the front and the back side. We've got an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket for the top of the end link. The 18mm wrench goes on the back. Socket goes on the front. Then you just have to use your muscle to tear it apart. I'm just going to speed up here as we remove that nut the rest of the way. Now we can pull the end link out. There are a couple bolts on top that hold the break hose and the ABS sensor. Spray them down with some penetrating oil, as well as the two large bolts that hold the strut. The 10mm socket and ratchet to remove the upper, or the break hose. Then 8mm socket and ratchet or a wrench to remove the ABS sensor wire.
Next we're going to remove these two 22mm nuts so we can pull the bolts out of the strut and remove the bottom half of the strut. Most people have ratchets. If you need a little extra leverage, you can always put a pipe on the end of it and get yourself a whole lot more force on it. As you can see, it works. One step better than the ratchet would be a breaker bar. It is obviously a little longer so you don't need to add pipe to it usually. As you can see, it normally works too. Just see us cheat here as we get out the impact wrench and pull those nuts off the rest of the way. To get these two bolts out, you can see that they're already loose so we really just have to tap them out. Just going to fast forward here. You can just use your wrench, turn the bolts counterclockwise and pull on them and they'll come out, or just use some kind of punch or tool to knock them out from the other side.
Now you just basically need to wiggle them apart and then the bottom of the strut is detected. On the top you can see that there is three covers, and that's how you access the top bolts for the strut. First we'll pop the covers off. The three bolts on the top of the strut are 14mm so we'll drop a 14mm socket down there and... Fast forward as Jeremy removes two of the bolts. We're going to leave one on for right now. If you do drop one down in there you can actually just take that plastic cover, the cover that has the three holes in it, pull up on it, and you'll see me do it later, pull up on it and a couple clips come loose and you can reach underneath there and grab the nuts if you drop them. Now we'll loosen up the last nut and you see the strut start to drop down. As you can see, the new one looks a lot like the original one, except obviously brand new. It will look and fit and bolt in just like the original one did. You want to put the top in first. Make sure you put the ABS sensor wire in the right spot. That's going to go under the strut. While one person is lifting up, you can actually lift up this roof here. Grab your new bolts. Help guide it up in there. Turn it a little bit the other way. Guide it up in, and start your bolts.
I'm just going to fast forward as Jeremy reaches under that cover, puts on the rest of the bolts and then kind of preliminarily tightens them. If you didn't have a helper, what you could do from the last scene is put one of the lower bolts into the lower strut mount area and then just use a jack to jack up the suspension to help you guide the strut into place. Now we're going to torque these top three strut bolts to about 34 pounds. I'm just going to fast forward as we, as Jeremy tightens up the last two bolts, then puts that plastic cover back down in place. Make sure all the clips are secure, and then put the three little plastic covers that go over top of the bolt holes into place. We can basically align this by sticking something through the bolt holes. Now make sure the ABS wire is in the right spot and you should be able to get the knuckle into the middle of the strut. Fast forward here as Jeremy pushes those bolts through, puts the nuts on and just kind of preliminarily tightens them up.
You'll want to torque these bolts to between 115-120 pounds. Speed it up here as Jeremy bolts on some of the final components, the 8 and 10mm bolts that hold the ABS sensor and the break line, as well as a little bit later you'll see him put the strut, the stabilizer link strut back on. Obviously we're showing you the passenger side. You always want to replace these struts in pairs and as well have your vehicle aligned after you do this type of repair. Put your wheel back on and start all your lug nuts just by hand first, and then while the vehicle is still in the air just kind of preliminarily tighten them with your socket and ratchet or as I'm doing with my impact wrench. Again, use your torque wrench and you want to tighten your lug nuts between 95 and 100 foot pounds. Use a star pattern as you tighten.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality auto replacement parts and the bets service on the internet.
Hi, this is Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out. Next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. In this video, we'll show you how to repair or replace the front control arms. We're going to show you the passenger side. The driver side is the same procedure. Usually these, you really won't know if they were out. A lot of times it will come up in the yearly inspection but some symptoms of bad control arms are just kind of spongy steering or hearing kind of a knocking or clanking sound when you steer back and forth, right to left. We're doing this on a 2003 Odyssey, same as a '99 to '04 Odyssey.
You'll need new control arm or control arms from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and ratchet. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, 17mm and 18mm wrenches, a ball joint or sometimes called pickle fork, a hammer and some penetrating oil. Okay, as you can see here, I've got the vehicle raised up and the lug nuts with my impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench, you want to start the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or your tire iron then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. You can see here I'm kicking the tire. That's basically just the way if your tire or your wheel is a little bit frozen on because of the aluminum. Just give it some good kicks and break it loose and then you can remove the tire.
Using pliers and a small pick or a screwdriver, I'll remove the pin that holds the ball joint nut. We're going to attach two wrenches together to get a little extra force on this and you can see, it works. I'm going to speed up here as Jeremy just takes that nut all the way off. That nut is generally a 17mm, it can be an 18mm though as well. Once the nut is off, I actually like to put it back on again, a few threads just because we're going to be breaking these two separate from each other and I don't like anything to happen to suddenly. If you have the nut on there, it keeps anything from getting crazy over here. This is an air activated pickle fork. They sell them to be used with a hammer as well. The hammer ones you just put right here then you hit on the end with a hammer. This one like I said is air activated so it's powered by air. Just put it right in here. As you can see, it separates the ball point.
Now, we'll grab a pry bar, put through in the lower control arm and pry it down. Take the nut off of the lower ball joint. Hopefully when it try it out enough, pull it out of the knuckle. Spray the bolts the best you can with some penetrating oil. There's two bolts that hold the control arm to the frame of the vehicle. Now, both of the control arm bolts are 19mm. You'll want to use a ratchet with a pipe on it because it's going to be pretty tight. Or maybe not. I'm going to speed it up here as we just remove that bolt the rest of the way. As it comes out, you'll probably have to keep spinning it with your wrench and kind of pull on it to get it out the whole way. Same thing with this one, just speed it up as the bolt is removed.
As you can see, the new one versus the old one. They look identical for all intents and purposes. New one have a nice coating on it. New ball joint, new bushings and it obviously fits the same way. Put the rear of the control arm in first. Then place the bolt in. Just install a couple of threads there while we rotate the arm into place. You can get the ball joint in too. Then your front bolts. You're going to need some messing with a pry bar. You can put the nut on the ball joint now. Using the original nut, it has the grove in it so the clip will fit a lot better. We'll tighten this down. Make sure that the pin will slide through the castle nut. I think we're pretty close. Now, you just push down and wiggle it, make sure it's tight. Now, just tighten those two main bolts until they start to sit. Now, before tightening these bolts, I'm putting a jack underneath the ball joint end of the control arm and basically jacking it up until the van starts raising off the lift a little bit. That means I have full support on the suspension and you want to tighten up those bolts with all the support on the suspension.
This should be torqued to around 90 to 95 foot pounds. This one should be the same. Okay, now you can let the suspension down off the jack and put your wheel and tire back on, start the lug nuts by hand first and just kind of tighten them up preliminarily before you put the vehicle down on the ground. Now again, use your torque wrench and you want to tighten up your lug nuts between 95 and 100 foot pounds and use a start pattern as you tighten.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality auto replacement parts and the bets service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front stabilizer link or one of the front stabilizer links. We show you the passenger's side and the driver's side is the same procedure. With stabilizer links, you'll hear a rattling and sometimes you'll know that it's a stabilizer link if you enter a slight curve and then the rattling stops. That's usually a good sign that the stabilizer link is bad. What you'll need is a new stabilizer link from 1A Auto. If you're going to replace one, it's probably a good idea just to replace just them both. Usually if one is getting worn out, the other one is getting ready to go. Jack and jack stands, I did put a star. You can do this without jacking the vehicle up but it does make it quite a bit more difficult just to get in there in the angles and stuff. You'll need two 18mm wrenches and you'll need an 18mm socket and ratchet and some penetrating oil.
As you can see here, I've got the vehicle raised up and I'm removing the lug nuts with my impact wrench. If you don't have an impact wrench, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or your tire iron. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. You can see here I'm kicking the tire. That's basically just a way . if your tire or your wheel is a little bit frozen on because of the aluminum, just give it some good kicks and break it loose and then you can remove the tire.
We're going to start by putting some lubricant on the ends of the bolts so that the nuts actually come off from the front and the back side. We have an 18mm wrench and an 18mm socket to the top of the end link. The 18-mm wrench goes on the back; the socket goes on the front and then you've just got to use your muscles to tear it apart. I'm just going to speed up here as we remove that nut the rest of the way. Now, we can just pull the end link out. Once we remove the end link from the strut, you can go down to the bottom and you can start working on the bottom bolt. On the bottom of the end link there's not enough room to get a big ratchet like this in, so you have to use a wrench on both sides. Ideally a ratcheting wrench would be great but when in a pinch, you can just use two regular wrenches. Put an 18mm on one side and an 18mm on the other just like the top and you just break it loose. Unfortunately there is really no easier way. You just go 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn at a time, and eventually you get that nut off.
We'll put the bottom one in first. I'm just going to speed it up here as I tighten up those two nuts. They should be tightened up to around 55 to 60 foot-pounds but you don't have to torque them. This is not an integral component. Just as long as you get them nice and tight with the wrenches or the socket and ratchet.
Put your wheel back on and start all your lug nuts just by hand first, and then, while the vehicle is still in the air, just preliminarily tighten them with your socket and ratchet or as I'm doing, with my impact wrench. Now, again, use your torque wrench and you want to tighten your lug nuts between 95 and 100 foot-pounds and use a star pattern as you tighten.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
