Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2006 Jeep Liberty. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com; a flat blade screwdriver; 15, 18, and 19 millimeter sockets and a ratchet with an extension; a piece of pipe for leverage; a torque wrench; 15 millimeter wrench; a hammer; a pick; and jack and jack stands.
Pry off your wheel cover if you have one. Remove the 19 millimeter lug nuts, and if you don't have air-powered tools you may want to loosen the lug nuts up while the vehicle's on the ground. Jack the vehicle up and then, remove the lug nuts. Once they're removed, the wheel pulls right off.
Right here, is your sway bar link. On this side, it's a 15 millimeter bolt, and on the other side it's an 18 millimeter nut, and it's the same thing down here. Using a 15 millimeter wrench and an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet, break the first bolt free and then pull that bolt out. To do that you may need a hammer to help get it out. Then you can pull it out the rest of the way. The easiest way to do this is using two ratchets. Use a 15 millimeter socket and extension on the one side, and then the 18 millimeter socket on the other side. Then hammer out the bolt like you did on the top one. If it gets jammed, you can use a pick and just hammer it through. Then your sway bar comes off.
On the left, is the old one. On the right, is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to mount exactly the same. Take your new sway bar link and push your 15 millimeter bolt back into place and replace the 18 millimeter nut on the other side. Then do the same for the lower one. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens both of those up, and then torques them both to 60 foot-pounds.
Replace the wheel and replace the lug nuts. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then, torque each of them in a crossing pattern to 100 foot -pounds. If you have a wheel cover, replace it.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2006 Jeep Liberty. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new front hub from 1AAuto.com; flat blade screw driver; 12mm, 19mm, 21mm, and 35mm socket and ratchet; torque wrench, jack and jack stands; piece of pipe for leverage; a pry bar; a hammer; an E14 external Torx socket and an additional person would help but isn't necessary.
Pry off your wheel cover if you have one, and remove the 19mm lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts up while the vehicle's on the ground. Jack the vehicle up and then remove the lug nuts. Once they're removed, the wheel pulls right off.
Turn your wheel so that you have better access to the brakes. Pry the rotor back. This will make it easier to get the caliper off. Now, you want to remove this 12mm bolt and this 12mm bolt and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Pull your caliper off and for safety purposes, you should wire tie it somewhere so it doesn't swing down and hit you while you're working on the brakes. Pry your brake pads out.
On the back of your caliper bracket, you'll see this 21mm bolt and this 21mm bolt and we'll just fast forward as Don removes those and you can see he does use a piece of pipe for some added leverage to help break them free. The bracket pulls right off and so does your rotor.
Using a flat blade screw driver, pry the harness out of this clip as well as this one. You want to just follow this harness and pry it out of each clip. Now, you want to lower your vehicle and get the rest of the harness. There is this one last clip right here. You just have to pull it up and off that stud. You also need to pull that harness up and off the clip. Now, disconnect the harness, using a flat blade screwdriver. Pry that red clip down and then push the tab on the harness and pull it apart. Now, you can pull that harness down and out.
You can have another person hold the hub with the pry bar, as we do here, or before you remove the brakes you can have somebody hold the brakes and then loosen the hub nut. That's a 35mm nut. On the back of the hub, there are three E14 bolts. There's one here, one here and then one up top right over here. We'll just fast forward as Don removes all three of those. Put the lower left one back in just a third of the way. That will keep the hub from flying while you're hammering it. You just want to hammer it until it falls like this. Now, you can remove that E14 bolt and that hub pulls right off.
On the right is the old hub. On the left is the new one from 1A Auto. They're identical and they'll mount exactly the same. Using a wire brush, clean up the area for the hub and then apply some brake grease along the outside of the hub and just feed the hub into place and replace those E14 bolts. It helps to get it started by hand. Then, tighten it up and it will help pull the hub into place. We'll just fast forward as he replaces the other two bolts and tightens them all up. You want to torque each of those bolts to 50 foot-pounds. Again, having another person here would definitely make this a lot easier. You just keep it from moving while the other person tightens up that hub nut. And you want to torque this to 100 foot-pounds.
Now, you want to put your harness back into place and re-clip it in all the same areas. If there's been a modification or one of your clips isn't the same, then just take the clip from your old hub wire and put it on to this one. Back up top, you want to reconnect your harness and push that clip back on to that stud.
Put your new rotor into place, and then, put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 21mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Don does this. Torque both of these bolts to 85 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Take your caliper and place and old brake pad in front of the piston and using a large C-clamp, push the piston in. Put your caliper into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. Torque these bolts to 20 to 25 foot-pounds.
Replace the wheel and replace the lug nuts and you want to tighten them preliminary. Lower the vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way and then torque each of them in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. If you have a wheel cover, replace it.
Any time you have the brakes apart, just get in the vehicle, pump the brakes a bunch of times. Make sure that the pedal is nicely firm and then do test ops from 5 and 10 miles an hour. Make sure everything is working correctly, before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2004 Jeep Liberty. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is a similar procedure. It's the same part and process on these Liberties from 2002 to 2005. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; a 10mm, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for extra leverage; 15/16 inch wrench; 21mm wrench; hammer; locking pliers; tape measure; a torque wrench; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by removing your 19mm lug nuts and pulling your wheel off. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen these preliminarily while it's on the ground. Jack the vehicle up, and remove these lug nuts the rest of the way, and your wheel pulls off.
Now, we're just scoring the center of our tie rod as a marking point. You want to go from the edge of the boot to the center of your outer tie rod and just remember that distance. Then you want to remove this 21mm nut. We'll just fast forward as Don does that. Now, using your 15/16 inch wrench, just loosen up this nut right here. Then, hit your wheel knuckle with the hammer. That will break the tie rod free and lift it up and out. Now, we lock onto our inner tie rod with some locking pliers and then pull the outer tie rod off by twisting it. I'm having a little difficulty. It's on there pretty good, so we just use a wrench; it gives us a little more leverage, and then, we can twist it off that inner tie rod.
Now, take your new outer tie rod and just twist it onto the inner tie rod. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Now replace that 21mm nut. To keep everything in place, we use a 10mm socket on the stud and then we just twist the 21mm nut out using a wrench. Now, you want to measure from the boot to the center of your tie rod and make sure it's the same distance and then just tighten up this nut right here.
With that, you've gotten the tie rod on there and tightened up. You will probably want to go in and get yourself an alignment after you replace the tie rods because it can bring your car out of line and then your tires can get worn out prematurely. Once you've done that, put the wheel back on, tighten the lug nuts preliminarily and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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