Kit Includes: (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies
Specification
Location
Front
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Bearing TypeTapered Roller Bearing
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Tie Rod 1998-2005 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 2002-05 Mercury Mountaineer
Created on:
Tools used
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
Liquid Thread Locker
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Tie Rod Puller
8mm Socket
Wire Ties
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Wire Cutters
Marker / Writing Utensil
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts
Raise and secure the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts and set the wheel aside.
Put the wheel under the vehicle for added security in the event of a jack failure.
2. Remove the brakes
Remove the 13 mm sockets anchoring the caliper.
Wire tie the caliper up out of the way.
Use a 15mm socket to remove the caliper bracket
Remove the rotor
Remove the dust shield with your 8 mm socket and ratchet
3. Remove the outer tie rod
Use your pliers to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod
Remove the nut with your 21 mm socket and ratchet
Pull apart the tie rod with a tie rod puller.
Use a paint marker to mark where the top nut on the tie rod is.
Use two adjustable wrenches to remove the tie rod.
4. Install the new tie rod
Apply a little loctite to the inner tie rod
Screw on the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod up to your paint marker mark.
Fill the dust boot with grease
Reassemble the tie rod end, replacing the nut and cotter pin.
Reassemble the brakes and wheel.
See our other videos for more detailed instructions.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ year's experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be replacing the tie rod on this '98 Explorer same as any '95 to '01 Explorer, Navajo, and Ranger, Mazda B Series pickup, and really this is a procedure that is similar for most cars.
Tools you'll need on the Explorer: jack and jack stands, 8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 19mm, which I forgot there, 21mm sockets and ratchet, pliers, a tie rod puller which is the right way to do it. You can use a hammer but you have to be careful. Loctite, a red or black marker, and two large adjustable wrenches.
So obviously you're going to want to jack up and secure your vehicle. You can just work a screwdriver in there to pry off your cap, and these are 19mm. If you don't have impact tools, loosen your lug nuts on the ground, then raise your vehicle and secure it with a jack stand, and then remove the lug nuts. Once the lug nuts are off just pull the tire right off, and there's four bolts that basically hold the brakes on. There's one here 13mm, and one up here, and those just hold the calipers to this big bracket. There's also a 15mm bolt here, and a 15mm bolt right up here. We're just going to speed through removing those four bolts, and you pull the caliper up and off and you can wire tie it up top and then that bracket comes off with the 15mm bolts, and we'll pick it up from there.
This bracket then comes right off, and your rotor comes right off. You're going to want to take off this dust shield and its 8mm bolts. Remove this cotter pin with a pair of pliers. Needle nose usually works best but usually the best thing to do is just grab hold and break off the pin on this side. It's a 21mm bolt, and actually give it a good tug. It does come easy. We'll put our puller on there. Now you could just use a big hammer and pound this through, but we want be very careful. If you go that route, you don't want to mushroom the end of this, and then it actually won't go through your steering knuckle. Now really this is using the tie rod ball joint puller is the best way, and you'll end up tightening this up good, and pretty soon it will pop. There it goes. A couple of big adjustable wrenches here. I'll fast forward a little here as I try and mess with it to try and get the best angle to both get a good pull on the wrenches and still be able to see it with the camera.
So that's off so now I'll lock this one onto here. The new tie rod does come with a new nut here so what I'm going to do is mark really well where this nut was so that when I put the new one on I know to go right up to where I put the red marks. I'm going to put just a little bit of Loctite on here, some down here, and put the new nut on. You can tell pretty well where it was. What you want to take into account is if either this nut or the length of your new tie rod is any different, you want to adjust the position of this nut. So if your tie rod is a little shorter, you adjust it out a little bit, or if the tie rod was a little longer than your original adjust it back in. So that's about where my old one was.
Now I'll put the new tie rod on, and you want to make sure you hold this. You don't want this twisting because that is adjustment as well, and if you do this this should give you a pretty good initial alignment. I recommend you go get an alignment so you don't wear out your tires too quickly or end up wearing out the new tie rod or wearing out your ball joints or anything like that if you car's not aligned correctly. Start my bolt down here to hold this in place. Now I want to tighten the lock nut up here really good. So I'm going to now tighten up this nut to about 75 foot pounds, and tighten it up a little more to get that and get my cotter pin right through there. The cotter pin you just take it and yank it right around. Then last but not least we'll put in our grease fitting and take our pliers and tighten that up. It comes pre-greased, but you can fill it up with grease, and now we can put everything back together.
We'll kind of fast forward putting that brake shield back up and tightening up those three 8 mm bolts. We'll also fly through putting the brakes back together and your wheel back on. A couple of notes, again, you probably would want to get a alignment after you've done any steering or suspension work like this, and then also just the first time you drive your car just be very careful. You've worked on the brakes. You've worked on the steering. So make sure your car is stopping before you go fast, and make sure that there is no looseness or anything in the steering before you road test it.
If you do want to see putting your brakes back together in regular motion, just check out our front brake video. We'll put the wheel back on. Put your lug nuts on. Get them snug then lower your car to the ground. Torque them up to 90 to 100 foot pounds. Replace your cap, and you're in business.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person
Tools used
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
5mm Hex Wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
White Grease
30mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Remove the hub nut with a 30mm socket and ratchet
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Brake Pads
Pry the ABS sensor wiring out of its clips with a flat blade screwdriver
Remove the two 14mm bolts from the brake caliper
Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a flat blade screwdriver to push in the pistons
Pull the caliper aside
Hold the brake caliper aside with wire ties
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
3. Removing the Brake Rotor
Remove the two 18mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
Pull off the brake caliper bracket
Pull the rotor off
4. Removing the Hub
Disconnect the ABS sensor wiring harness in the engine compartment
Unclip the ABS sensor wiring
Pull out the ABS sensor wire
Make sure the axle can move freely in and out of the hub
Apply rust penetrant to the hub bolts
Remove the three 15mm bolts from the hub
Pull off the hub
5. Installing the Hub
Push the hub onto the axle with the ABS sensor on top
Insert the three 15mm bolts into the hub
Tighten the hub bolts to 75 foot-pounds of torque
Feed the ABS sensor wire into place
Fasten the hub nut onto the hub
6. Installing the Brake Rotor
Slide the rotor on
Thread on one lug nut to hold the rotor in place
Put the bracket back into place
Start the two 18mm bolts by hand
Tighten the bolts to 85 foot-pounds
7. Installing the Brake Pads
Apply brake grease to the brake pad tabs
Install the new brake pads into the bracket
Remove the wire ties from the caliper
Put the caliper on
Thread the two 14mm bolts by hand
Tighten bolts to 25 foot-pounds
Push the ABS sensor wire into its clips
Clean the brake rotor
8. Reattaching the Wheel
Remove the placeholder lug nut
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the hub nut to 180 foot-pounds
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
9. Connecting the ABS Sensor
Connect the ABS sensor wiring harness inside the engine compartment
10. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Mountaineers for 2002 to 2005. The items that you'll for this are a new front hub from 1AAuto.com; a 14, 15, 18, 19 and 30mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; 5mm Allen bit or Allen wrench; flat blade screwdriver; jack and jack stands; and torque wrench.
Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the center cap. Once it comes off some you can just put your fingers underneath and pull it off. Then, use a 30mm socket to loosen up that center hub nut and remove it with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You can also use a larger breaker bar. If you have the benefit of air tools, you can do this step later as you'll see us do but we're just showing you how to do this in the beginning. Here you'd also want to loosen the lug nuts up with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or ratchet and pipe. We're just going to speed it up here. We've raised and secured the vehicle and we're using a ratchet or an air gun to remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.
Now, just open up this clip with a flat blade screwdriver. You just have to pry the tab and pull it open. Then just pry the harness out of this clip and pull it out of these three. Then you want to remove these two 14mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that. Now using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry right here and that will push the piston in on the caliper and make it easier to pull the caliper off, do it again down here, and pull the caliper free. Then you want to set it up and out of the way so we're just going to put it up here. Just to make sure it doesn't fall down use a wire tie to just secure it up there.
Now, pry out your brake pads. The best way to tell the life left in your pads: this little slot right here is a wear mark so you can see it pretty much goes away once you have about an 1/8 of an inch of pads left. Like I said before, these pads have quite a bit of life left on them.
Now, remove these two 18mm bolts. You can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. When you pull out the last bolt, the caliper bracket pulls free. Now pull your rotor off.
Now up here, you just want to reach down here behind your radiator reservoir and just push on the tab on this harness and pull the harness free. Then just open up this clip up here with a flat blade screwdriver and pull the harness down.
Now if you don't have air powered tools, you want to remove this 30mm nut with the tire on and the wheel on the ground. If you do have air powered tools, you can remove it right now. Then just make sure the axle moves in and out. Then come back here and you want to remove these three 15mm bolts. We're just going to start off by spraying them with some penetrating oil and then using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, just break them free and remove them. Now a tip on these: I start with 1/2 inch sized tools which are larger, heavier duty tools and once I get them loose I switch to 3/8 inch drive tools which are smaller and get in to the area a little better. It makes it a lot easier if you just turn your wheel so that you can get better access to this bolt back here.
Tap the hub with a hammer until it starts to move out. We realize that we have a bolt still in the hub a little bit so we're just going to remove that and then pull the hub free. We'll push the axle out of it.
On the left is the old hub. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly same. Take your new hub and push it onto the axle with the ABS harness on the top and then just push it back into place. When you have it lined up, just replace those three 15mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque each of those to 75 foot-pounds. Now we're just going to use our old clips, so we're just going to pry off the new clips and you could always just pry out your old clips and push these ones into place. Ours are in good condition so we're just going to use them. Feed the harness back up and get it up over the control arm and then just clip it back into that clip and push it back up into place. Replace the hub nut and just tighten that up preliminarily.
Take your rotor and push it into place and then replace a lug nut just to hold it there while you reassemble the caliper bracket and caliper. Now take your caliper bracket, line it up and then just replace those two 18mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 85 foot-pounds.
Just push your brake pads back into place and it helps if you just apply some brake grease to the tabs to help them go back in. Now remove your wire tie and pull your caliper back down. Move the C-stand and the brake pad and the caliper piston is pushed all the way in. Then take your caliper and push it back into place over your brake pads. You want to make sure that those slides push down underneath and line up. Once they're lined up, replace those two 14mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 25 foot-pounds.Then just push this back into those three clips, and then back into this bracket, and then close that final clip.
Wipe down any dirt that may have gotten on your rotor while replacing the caliper and then remove that lug nut, replace your wheel and then replace all of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way and then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now torque that hub nut to 180 foot-pounds. Now replace your hub cap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
Then just grab your harness up here and push it back into the connector until it clicks.
Whenever you've done any work on your brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA58490
In Stock
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
There are no reviews for this item.
Customer Q&A
No questions have been asked about this item.
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Mercury is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by Mercury or Ford Motor Company.See all trademarks.
Enter Vehicle Year Make Model
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Year
Make
Model
Options
Drivetrain
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.