2003 Nissan Sentra L4 2.5L Ignition Kit TRQ VCA91468

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the ignition coil on this 2003 Nissan Altima with the 2.5L four-cylinder engine. It's the same process on the Altimas and Sentras with this engine from 2002 to 2006. You'll need a new ignition coil from 1AAuto.com, a 10mm socket, a ratchet, and a 5mm Allen bit.

To access the ignition coils, you first have to remove this engine cover. It's held in by these four 5mm Allen bolts. We'll just fast-forward as Don removes these. He's using a ratchet with a 5mm Allen bit. You could also just use a 5mm Allen wrench, as well.

Now, the cover just lifts right off. Here are your four ignition coils. It's held in with one 10mm bolt in the harness right here. Just push the tab and pull that harness off. Then remove that 10mm bolt. Now the ignition coil just lifts right up and out.

The old ignition coil is on the left; the new one from 1A Auto is on the right. You can see they're identical, and will fit exactly the same. Take the new ignition coil and just push it down into place. Then replace that 10mm bolt and reconnect your harness. Repeat this process for however many coils you want to replace. Now, all that's left is replacing that engine cover and those four 5mm Allen bolts.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Use a 5 millimeter Allen key to remove the plastic engine cover. There are one, two, three, four bolts holding it on. Lift it off and put it aside.

These are your four ignition coils. I'm going to show you how to remove this one, procedure will be exactly the same for the other three. Start by pushing this clip in and wiggle the connector out. Use a 10mm socket and ratchet and use a retaining bolt. Put that bolt aside. Grab it on both sides, and kind of wiggle it, because there is a boot that goes down over the spark plug. It's got a little suction to it. Pull it out and that's how you remove the coil.

Now remove the bolts holding the harness on to the intake manifold. These are 10-millimeter. You can free the harness from this clip that's on the valve cover. Push the tab over, and pull it up and out. To remove the hose off the PCV valve, use needle-nose pliers. Sometimes you need to grab the hose, use the pliers and push it back off. You can use a flat-bladed screwdriver to move it off.

You need to remove this breather hose from the valve cover using needle-nose pliers again. Squeeze the clamp and move it up. It can be on there pretty tight, but this comes off pretty easy. The 10 millimeter valve cover bolts need to be removed in a specific order. You're going to start with number one. Go across here to number two, over to number three, to number four, number five, number six, over at number seven, number eight is in the back here, number nine, and number ten. Using a 10-millimeter socket, ratchet and extension, start over here. With all the bolts removed, you can lift the valve cover off the engine.

It might be a little stuck. Use a rubber mallet to break it free. There it comes. Lift it off around the harnesses here. Since the engine is open, I'm just going to take some paper towels and place them over the top so that nothing falls in while we change the valve cover.

Here we have our old valve cover from our vehicle, and our new one from 1AAuto.com. Now flip this over. You can see our valve cover gasket was leaking. That’s why we decided to replace this. It actually, when I took it off it cracked a bit here on the spark plug opening gaskets. The new one from 1AAuto.com comes with seals integrated into the cover just like the original.

We'll have to add in the valve cover gasket it comes with. This is included with the valve cover. Just sort of match it up. It's going to go into this channel. That's installed. We get to flip it over. We're going to grab the oil cap out of the original. Just clean it up a bit.

I should also mention, the original has a PCV valve in it, and the new one comes with a PCV valve already installed. We need to transfer this clip over for the harness. Take some small pliers just to press the clips, pull it out, place it into our new valve cover, and this is ready to be installed in the car. Before we install the valve cover, I'll just take our paper towels off here where we're using to keep debris out of the cylinder head. We need to just clean around the outside edge, especially over here because we're going to need to add two small beads of RTV silicone according to the factory service information, just to prevent any leaks.

Now we'll take a little bit of brake parts cleaner and a rag and carefully wipe away from the cylinder head interior. Clean all around it, wiping to the outside. I'm going to take a razor blade and just carefully remove this little bit of RTV that's left here, making sure I scrape away from the inside of the cylinder head, and do the same thing on the back side of the head. Apply RTV silicone in roughly the same place. A small bead will do.

Take our new valve cover with the gasket installed, and place it down onto the engine. Kind of work it underneath that harness. Procedure for installing the bolts is specific. You start with number one here, move across to number two, and number three, number four, over to number five, across to number six, over to number seven, number eight, and number nine, and number ten. The torque procedure for the rocker cover bolts is to go in two steps. The first step is 9 to 26 inch-pounds, it's super, super light, so I'm just going to do it by feel. Then the second tightening sequence is 65 to 82 inch-pounds, so again, it's just a plastic valve cover going into aluminum head. I'm just going to tighten them all evenly in the order I pointed out, and just be very careful. Or you can use an inch-pound torque wrench if you have it. But if you don't, just don't go too crazy tightening them.

At this point it should be 65 to 82 inch-pounds. I'm just going to do it by feel. Right there once it gets tight I'm going to stop. And finally number ten. The valve cover's tightened down. Reinstall the breather hose. Reinstall the clamp. Reinstall the PCV valve hose. Reinstall the clamp. Now push this harness back into this clip. You have to move the harness vertically, it's supposed to sit. It kind of sits around that white tape on this harness.

Install the bolts holding the harness to the intake manifold. These are just going into aluminum, so I'm just going to turn them, right when they get tight I will stop. Reinstall our coils. Again, these are just threaded inserts in the plastic valve cover, so as soon as they start to get tight just stop. You don't want to over-tighten them and pull it out of the valve cover. Procedure will be the same for all of them.

Reinstall the connectors. One final step before I reinstall the engine cover, I'm just going to clean some of this leaked oil off the side of the engine with some brake parts cleaner. This way, if the valve cover gaskets leak again, when you're inspecting the engine you can tell that it's fresh oil. Reinstall the engine cover and the four bolts that hold it on. These bolts are just going into aluminum, just holding on a plastic cover. Not a lot of torque on these. Job is complete.

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