Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today we're working on our 2004 Volvo XC90. This one's the all wheel drive version and we're going to be replacing a rear sway bar link. It's going to be super easy. I can do it. You can do it too. As always, if you need this part or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.Com. Thanks.
Okay friends. Here's our rear sway bar link. I removed the wheel just for purpose of the video, but to do the job itself, you don't have to have the wheel off. I just wanted to mention that. To take it off, it's going to be super simple. We've got a nut here and a nut located right down here. Once those are off, you just pull the studs out of either the sway bar or out of the control arm. It's going to slide right out. We'll spray this down with some penetrant first. We'll let it do its job for a second and then we'll go ahead and take off these nuts.
We're going to use our 18 millimeter socket to try to take off these nuts. What could happen is once this loosens up, the stud might want to spin inside here and it's going to become an issue. At that point we'll have to switch over to a different set of tools, but let's give this a try first and we'll deal with what may happen if it does happen.
Okay, so it is happening of course. As we're trying to remove the nuts, we're just spinning the whole shaft because on the inside of the sway bar link it's just a ball and socket. What we're going to have to do is we're going to have to grab a Torx bit socket that fits inside the stud right there and then an 18 millimeter wrench. We'll hold the Torx bit socket still with a ratchet probably and then unscrew the 18 millimeter nuts with a wrench. For the Torx bit, which is basically a star, you're going to use a T40. I'm going to grab my ratchet, put that on here. We've got our wrench. I'm going to start with a lower one because it's easier for me to get to. I'm going to put the wrench so it's ready to reverse or turn it counterclockwise. I'm going to put the ratchet so it's on forward and it's going to hold the stud in the opposite direction. Right now the nut's coming right off the stud, which is exactly what we want. Get that off of there.
There's our nut, not that it matters, we're going to replace it. Come up here to the top one. Get our wrench on there and our tool. Awesome. Get that nut off of there, grab our sway bar link, twist it, turn it and pull it right out of there. Easy peasy.
Here we are friends, a quick product comparison for you over here. We have our rear sway bar link out of our 2004 Volvo XC90, all wheel drive version. And over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part. Both these parts are created equal. You've got the same length, super important. You've got two mounting studs, also important. One of the awesome things about our sway bar link, is you've got this area right here which just makes it so you can get a wrench on there and hold it so the stud can't turn. This one on the other hand, not so much. You have to grab your Torx bit socket, hold it in there, which is fine, but in that instance you can't use a, like maybe an air gun to zip these off. If they were really frozen on, they're doing the wrench trick might've been a little bit of an issue.
Like I said before, same length, same studs, pretty neat little addition there and of course we've got sealed and pre-greased boots, brand new. It also comes with the mounting hardware, which is basically just two brand new nuts. Just throw that over there. They screw right on there. The whole form is oblong, that's how they lock, so they're self locking nuts. You don't need to use thread locker on those. With that said, I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a quality part to install onto the vehicle so I'm going to go ahead and do it. As always, if you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
We've got our brand new quality 1A Auto sway bar link here. We're just going to go ahead and install it. It's going to be super easy. We're going to come right up and in. I'm going to start with trying to get the top one in first. What's going to cause the biggest issue is just the the e-brake cable right here, but it's not too big of a deal. You just kind of push it out of the way and the stud should slide right through. To make sure it doesn't slide back out on its own somehow while we're trying to maneuver the bottom in, we'll just start that nut and we'll get this one in. The studs move around fairly easily so if it's not lining up perfectly, just move your stud around.
There we are, brand new nut, get this on here. The mounting on the backside there that I showed you, that's an 18 millimeter and the nut itself is an 18 millimeter. Do whatever you got to do to tighten it up. You can use your 18 millimeter on your air gun or you can just go ahead and use your ratchet and a wrench. You do you Booboo. We'll go with a ratchet and wrench for now. I'm just going to hold this side and I'm going to use my ratcheting wrench on this side. That's tight. We'll do the same to the upper one. Just try it and get it so it's going to hold that. Tight and tight. Both mounting points of the sway bar link are tight. You're all set.
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Tools used
Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today we're working on our 2004 Volvo XC90 and we're going to be doing front sway bar links. It's going to be very simple. I can do it. You can do it too. If you need these or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com thanks.
Okay friends, so just a quick note, we're going to be doing a lot of videos and replacing parts on this particular vehicle. So if you happen to notice in the video that you're watching, all of a sudden the part just is brand new and it wasn't brand new before odds are we cut out, we were doing another job, we replaced that part, we cut back in and we're just showing you the stuff that you need to know to be able to do your particular replacement.
Okay friends, so now what we're going to do is we're going to loosen up the wheel. I've got my vehicle supported from the ground, but the wheel is still touching so that it can't spin while I do this. I'm just going to use my 19 millimeter. I have a a thin wall socket on there so it can squeeze in between the rim and the lug nut. I'm just going to break it free. It's a tight one. That's the reason for doing it while it's still on the ground. If you tried doing this up in the air, the wheel of course is going to spin.
Okay, so I've got three out of my five lug bolts out. This is what they look like right here. They screw directly into the wheel bearing. So once you take off this one right here and then you go to take this one off, there's going to be nothing holding this wheel on, so you need to pay attention to that. I'm just going to take this one lug here, lug bolt, put it in a couple threads and that's just so the wheel won't be able to come off and potentially hurt me. Push my wheel up against, just grab it. I'm holding the wheel so it can't fall down at this point and we'll just grab it off and set it aside safely.
So here we go, friends. Let's go ahead and take this nut off right here. We're going to use our 19 millimeter socket. I'm going to use a half inch air gun. It's going to make it much easier than trying to turn it with a ratchet. I've got my safety glasses and my hand protection of course. This loosened up quite a bit. What I'm going to do now is I'm going to try and get back here and I'm going to see if I can get some locking pliers in to hold the stud because as I try to turn the nut, it's just spinning the stud. I'm not sure if these will get in here. I like to have these as tight as possible. Odds are, it's still going to spin. I'll probably have to readjust it, but... Looks like it is started a little bit more
So I just grabbed different locking pliers here. Just going to see if I can get this as tight as possible. A little bit at a time apparently. That's just the way it wants to go. I don't even think I can get these things tighter than they are. If you wanted to, you could try to apply a little bit of heat. The problem with that is that you don't want to apply heat to the strut itself. So I mean, if you're over here blasting away trying to heat up this nut, I mean I guess if you came across the edge here and you were nowhere near this part, you might be able to get away with it. It's just risky business, because inside here is pressurized gas. So I'm going to try everything I can without heat first and we'll see what we have to do when we have to do it.
It really doesn't seem like anything good is happening at this point. I'm going to try to tighten this up, which might seem like it's counterintuitive, but once I get it tight and then re-blast it out, hopefully just the speed and the inertia and everything moving, it'll pull its way right off. Just give it another blast with this stuff. So I'm going on now. And nothing's happening. Okay.
So I just applied a little bit of heat. I tried to go right along the edge here and just try to catch the edge of the nut. Once again, like I said, I was trying not to hit up against the strut itself. It's a pressurized gas unit. So we got that nut off of there. Get our tool off of here. Bonk, bonk. There's our lovely sway bar link end there. What was given us all the trouble is when we were trying to squeeze on here, it was just literally spinning in the grips. It's very common.
So I'm going to be preemptive with the heat on this one, because I know that the upper side needed a little heat, and I have nothing to worry about here as far as my heat's concerned. The abs wire and everything is super far from this area. The closest thing we have is just the axle boot. So I'm not going to heat going in this direction. I'm trying to spray that way. It's going to go right over here and there's literally nothing around here that I have to worry about except for maybe the bellows boot, but that's pretty far away. The nut on the lower side of this, that we're doing right now, is actually a 17 millimeter, which is different than the upper nut. I don't know why Volvo did that. I'm sure they have their own reasons. I'm no engineer. Just lowly old Len. Let's see if we can get this to come off. Get our safety glasses on. Okay, it's getting loose. Locking pliers in here. Hooray. Here we are. Got that sway bar link out of the way.
Here we are friends, a quick product comparison for you. Over here we have our front sway bar link out of our 2004 Volvo XC90. We just removed it, and over here we have our brand new quality 1A Auto part. This comes with brand new nuts. These are locking nuts. The studs come in the exact same as the originals. Where up on top, the studs a little thicker and on the lower part, the stud is skinnier. That's why we had a bigger nut and a smaller nut. It's important to take note that the length of them is the same. That's super important. Obviously you don't want to have one that only kind of goes that far. Anyway, it comes with brand new boots. Like I said, brand new nuts. It comes with everything you need to mount. I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a quality part to install into the vehicle, so I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.
Okay, so we've got our sway bar link. We'll put it up in here, like this. This is the smaller side, the side with a small stud. Okay. You can get that started. Now we're going to blast this on with a 15 millimeter socket. We've got our 15 on our half inch gun with some safety glasses. Tight. All right, so it's important to make sure that we have our ABS wire going along the outside of your sway bar link. You don't want it heading towards the inside there and getting all pressed in there and whatever. So if you notice it doesn't really want to line up very well, you can just do something as simple as taking your pry bar, go up against the sway bar and then anywhere you can find to pry up against. And you don't even need to really go very far. Just like that. It's lined up so it's straight. I'm going to take my 18 millimeter socket. Let's see if I can get it on here. There we are.
Now I'm just going to blast it on. Of course not. We're going to try it one more time. I'm going to try it a little bit more gusto, and I'll leave it so it's just barely on there. Then I'm going to blast it. And that's a no. Okay. So I put some locking pliers on here. I'm going to be careful not to damage my brand new boot, and we're just going to go ahead and try to blast this on. There we are. So now that we finished up that job, what you would do is you'd go over to the other side of the vehicle, assuming you're doing the same thing on the other side, repeat the same procedure, easy peasy. Grab your wheels, put them on, torque them down, down the road you go. Easy peasy.
Okay, so now to make it easier to get the wheel up on here where we don't have the lug studs that are sticking out and you put your wheel up on and it just kind of holds the wheel nice and easy for you. You don't have to stand there and hold it forever. Volvo decided to make it fun and interesting and make you work your muscles a little bit. Well, 1A Auto sells this awesome tool and basically all these are is they're going to give you a lug stud. So when you're putting your wheel on, you just slide your wheel right over this and it's going to kind of hold it there so you don't have to sit there and try to muscle it the whole time while you try to line up the holes and put your lug stud in or lug bolt. So I'm going to set that aside. I'm going to grab my wheel, bring it right over.
Hold on to one of my lug nuts. Just going to bring this up. Slide it right over that. Boy oh boy that made it easy. So now we would just take our lug bolt. Put our wheel up against there. Start this in, hopefully. I should've grabbed one of my sockets. That would've made my life a little easier here. There we are. And even though I was holding the wheel steady that whole time, I didn't have to have my whole body holding it, trying to line it up while I'm staring into the hole and put this through. Thank you 1A Auto. So we'll just start all these lug nuts in and then we'll bottom them out, torque them down.
Okay. We've got all the lug nuts bottomed out. Now we'll just bring the vehicle back down so the wheel is touching the ground, but without full force of the vehicle's weight on the wheel. And then we'll torque down these lug nuts. So here we are friends. We've got our torque wrench out. It's set to 103 foot pounds. I have my thin wall, 19 millimeter socket because there's limited space to get in between these lug bolts and the wheel. When we tighten these down, we're going to go in a star pattern. Here, here, here, here, here, and then if we decided to go around again, we'll do the same thing. But anyway, the reason for going in star is essentially, so as we're going around, if the wheels cantered a little bit, it won't get stuck that way and maybe the torque wrench thinks it's torquing it down to 103 like it's supposed to be, but it's a little bit cocked off to the side. Then you drive it down the road, hit a bump or whatever, everything starts loosening up. Your lug bolts come out. Long story short, just tighten them in a star pattern.
There we are. I always like to go around twice. It doesn't cost me anything. It doesn't hurt me any, and it's a small price to pay for safety. Okay, all torqued up. Great job everybody.
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