2010 Honda Civic L4 1.8L Transmission Mount TRQ MTA70746

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

Open the hood. Pull the release inside. Find the secondary safety release under your hood. On our Civic, we've got two spots we can put the proper on. One here or we put it in the service position. Open it further and use that one. Going to replace this transmission mount here.

I'm just going to disconnect the negative terminal battery before I start touching anything. This is a 10 millimeter on this car. Just loosen it up. Just put this aside. After the negative terminals been disconnected, use a 12 millimeter wrench to remove the positive terminal. This terminal is live, so try not to touch the wrench to any other metal while you're removing it. This is just on here on plastic. Pull the cable over. Then spray some rush penetrant on here. It's a little rusty. Using a 10 millimeter deep socket.

So if the deep socket isn't deep enough, just take a ratcheting wrench or a box wrench, whatever you have handy. You don't have to loosen them off fully. That one popped out. Once their loose enough, you can kind of move this around. Like this one popped out of the little hook. So now it's unhooked, and you can maneuver this one. Take the whole bracket and mount out. There's a plastic cover on here. We can just pull it off, and then reach in. Probably want to wear some gloves because batteries can have acid on them. Just pull it right out and put this aside.

There's a third bolt down here that's hidden by the battery. With the battery out, we can get to it. It's 10 millimeter. It comes to 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove it. Now remove this one up here. Remove this 10 millimeter bolt in the backside. There's a plastic cover on the ECU. It's got two little tabs here. If it's kind of loose, it'll pop right out. Slide the cover off. Then we're just going to gently pull this over. There's three connectors. They're locked so you got to push in the lock and then pull this open like that at the same time. It'll kind of push it off. Do this for all three of them. Pull the ECU right out.

Take some small needle nose pliers push in these little tabs. Pull this harness out of this bracket. There are three clips on the outside of this fuse panel box that are holding it to a bracket, not the ones that are holding the cover on. There's two in the back, one in the front. So you actually push it outwards so that the tab. We're going to flip it outwards. Do it with my thumb here and then lift up on this. It'll come loose. I'm going to do the two on the back same way. If you're having troubles getting your fingers in there, you can use a flat bladed screwdriver, and with one hand lift up on the box and unlock it. Same with this one here. There's one. Here's the other one. Okay. Just have to work at it a little bit. Lift up on the box. Just kind of gently pick it up and off the bracket. Try not to pinch the EC wires too much. That can sit like that.

Now you can get to this 10 millimeter bolt that's back here. I'm going to remove that. Use just a socket and ratchet. There we go. I'm going to move this back. Make sure it doesn't clip back into place though. There's a 10 millimeter bolt here holding the other side of that bracket. Slide this bracket out. Part of it is clipped around this air intake tube. Pop it off of the little grommet. Pull the bracket out. Before you remove this engine mount, have new hardware on hand for these two studs and bolts and this bolt. There's one here and then towards the back of the car. So I have new ones of those on hand.

Going to remove this steel brace that's on the top. It's got three bolts holding it. They are 14 millimeter. Start with these. Get them broken free. Push the ECU cable aside. Just sort of gently push this this way. I can reach the bolt there. Just be careful moving all these around because there are wires inside. You don't want to break the wires. I like to break all the bolts free before I start removing them. So now that I've got the other two broken free, I can take this one out completely. Pull that bolt out. Move this back. Pull that bracket right out of there. We can use a floor jack and a piece of wood to support the transmission. Don't really need to jack up on this very much right now. This just to hold it up as we swap them out, but I want to get it in position so we're ready. That's perfect like that.

Before you remove this mount, make sure you have your engine supported on your floor jack, which we've already done. Spray some rust penetrant on here. Try to get some down in here and there's one in the back that's hard to see. These are 17 millimeter. Going to start with the bolt. This wrench, this ratchet and extension might not be big enough. Might be too much torque. Well, that worked. Pull that bolt out. Switch to a 17 millimeter deep socket. Get to these nuts that are on the studs. You need a longer ratchet sometimes for leverage. Engine might drop down a tiny bit. That's okay. It is supported with the floor jack. Pull that nut off. All right.

So I'm actually going to lift the engine up with the floor jack a bit. There we go. Take that nut off. There's a little steel dampener piece that's going to come off in there. So that's nice and free from the engine. Now we'll work on getting it free from the body. I'm using a longer ratchet for leverage. I'm also using the deep socket for a little extra height, but you can use a regular socket and a longer extension. Break this free. Now there is a second one. It's in the back. It's a lot harder to see, but it basically looks just like the one in the front. You can slide this down and you can feel it get on there. The same. Break it free. Pull that out. Should be able to lift the mount up and off the studs where it mounts the engine/transmission. Pull it right out of the engine compartment.

These are original transmission mount from the vehicle, and our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. See it's the same design. Same style of rubber mount with the aluminum piece that's molded in the middle. Same mounting holes. This will fit in out vehicle and work great for us. Before I put our new transmission mount in, I'm going to go in here and take a rag and just wipe some of this junk out of here that's been collecting. Just so I know that the engine mount will sit nice and flat on the frame rail.

Take our new one and just kind of maneuver it in. Put it over the studs first. Holes are slotted so you do have some play. I would get the outer bolts caught first. These bolts. Then we'll worry about these bolts over here. So take your hardware and get that back in. I'm just going to snug it down, and I'm not going to torque it yet. Back one’s are going to be a little trickier because it's hard to see. Going to have to kind of feel for it. I can just see the hole from up here, but I need to kind of hold this harness out of the way, and then maneuver my hand down in here.

Reach down here with our extension and socket, and just kind of get it threaded by hand first because you can feel it thread in and not cross thread. With the bolt started, now I can just snug it down. Don't forget to reinstall the steel dampener. It just sits on top. We'll take our bolt. I can see that the hole is lined up nicely. I'll drop our bolts in there. Start it. Thread it by hand because this is aluminum. This bolt is steel. Don't want to cross thread it. Get it threaded down. I'll use my socket and ratchet to draw the transmission mount up. I'm just going to snug this down. Come back and torque it afterwards.

We're going to install these flange nuts. Take your deep socket and ratchet, snug these up. I'm going to lower the jack and pull it out from underneath the car. Then we're done with that for now. Going to torque these bolts on the frame rail. It's a 47 foot pounds. Get that out of the way. We torque these to 54 foot-pounds. Going to put this little brace back in so that the two bolts go into the mount. You should be able to tell that the bolts that came out of it; they're real clean. There's no corrosion on them because they were steel going into aluminum. Put this in place. Get one of these caught. Should thread them in by hand so you don't cross thread them. Move this out of the way. Get the bracket lined up.

Sometimes, if you turn it backwards like you're going to thread it out, you can help find the thread. You can kind of feel it. Just like that. Then it should thread right in. Push the fuse panel over. Grab this bolt here. Going to tighten these up. Going to torque these to 28 foot-pounds. Now we're going to put our ECU bracket back in place. This under here. This air intake tube has a little grommet that it's going to push onto. Just like that. This is going to sit. Move these harness connectors out of the way. Capture this bolt inside of the fender here. Snug this one down. Just have to tighten it until you feel it stop. Then a little bit more, and that'll be tight.

Pick this box up. This can actually go back onto its mounts. This is got to push that back up. That sits just like that. Get this little 10 millimeter bolt in here that mounts it. Might have to move the bracket a bit just to thread it in. Tighten this down. Clip the harness back in where it mounts here.

Reinstall the ECU. You can't really mess up the connectors because they don't reach. So they only go where they reach. Try to push them on evenly. Get them kind of closed, and these little bars are going to go in and catch, uh, pins there on each side of the connector. As you do that, they're going to lock in place. Those are locked into place.

Position it on the bracket. Don't forget to reinstall the plastic cover. It just slides over. And it's got these two little tabs that are going to go in here. That's going to sit like that. Now I can reinstall all the bolts. You have to move around a little bit, get it started. Just get it tight, and an old quarter turn wash should do it. ECU's reinstalled.

I'm going to reinstall our battery. If you have a plastic cover, now you can reinstall it. Got the battery tight on and the hooks attached, so you can reach down, hook this in. Kind of just like that. Do the same for this side. Use a 10 millimeter deep socket to tighten these.

Reinstall the positive terminal. Yours might look different. This car's had the terminal replaced. But the idea is the same. Put that over there, that go up on there. Take 12 millimeter and tighten this up. You don't have to over tighten these, just tighten it and then give it a good tug. Make sure it doesn't wiggle or come loose. You can kind of see how they bend as they tighten. Take our negative terminal. Just go back on here. Tighten this one up. This is a 10 millimeter. There's a possibility that the original positive terminal is also a 10 millimeter. Make sure that's nice and tight. The battery's replaced. When you're all done, just close the hood.
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