Replaces
Part Details
TRQ ignition coils will have your engine running like new. TRQ ignition coils are manufactured to precise specifications using premium raw materials to optimize each vehicle's ignition system. To ensure peak performance, TRQ recommends replacing ignition coils in sets to prevent electrical output imbalances. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an ignition coil on this 2012 Chevy Traverse, with the 3.6 liter V6 engine. The items you'll need for this is a new ignition coil from 1AAuto.com, and a 10mm socket and ratchet with an extension.
Start off by removing your oil fill cap. Then lift up on your engine cover, and pull it off. Then replace your oil fill cap. Now because this is a V6 engine, you have three ignition coils on this side. Then you have another three back here on this side. And we're going to show you on one of the ones up front, so it's easier to explain the process. You just push the tab on the harness and pull it free. Then, using a 10mm socket and ratchet, just remove that 10mm bolt. Then pull the ignition coil up and out.
On the right is the old one, on the left is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they are identical, and will mount exactly the same.
Push your new ignition coil down into place. Then replace that 10mm bolt and tighten it up. Now re-connect your harness, and remove your oil fill cap. You want to line up these holes with these three studs. Just push the engine cover down into place. Then replace that oil fill cap. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. In this video I'm going to show you how to replace the coil packs in this 2013 Cadillac SRX. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.
When doing this job, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery. So the battery is located under here and you want to push down on these little lock tabs. There's two on this side and two on the other side. You can lift this up. Just slide this out of the way. Now, the negative terminal's on this side, I'm going to use a 10 millimeter wrench. Loosen this up, wiggle it, set it aside. I can either leave that hung over like that or just leave that on the side like that. There's a screw right here. I'm going to use a T30 socket extension and a ratchet. Take that screw out. Pull that up.
I'm going to take this oil fill cap off. Set that aside. Grab this cover and just pull it up. So I don't drop anything down into the oil, just put the cap back on. There's a bolt right here. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket and a electric ratchet. If you don't have an electric one, you can use a regular ratchet. Oops, it's tightening. I don't want to loosen it. That's good. The bolt's going to stay. It's a caged bolt. So leave that there.
Next I'm going to just slide this off right here, this hose, set that aside. I'm going to loosen up this worm clamp right here. I can use the straight blade screwdriver or a eight millimeter socket and ratchet. Loosen this up right here and then there's another clamp right here. I'm going to do the same. With that loose, I can just grab the snorkel right here and then on the back side, pull it up and there's a little grommet on the backside here and just pull up on that. Just like that. Slide this whole snorkel up. We'll disconnect this connector right here, this little lock, pull on that lock and then push down on the tab. Disconnect that connector and then there's a little retainer right here. Just slide that out of the way. On the MAP sensor, we're going to do the same. Push down. Disconnect the connector.
I want to disconnect this hose, this hose goes to the EVAP purge valve. So just push on this lock, well you're actually pushing up and then slide the hose out. It's a little bit tricky. Disconnect that, slide that out of the way. Just put that over there. In the back of the purge valve there is a connector, so there is a little lock tab on the connector. Pull that lock tab out. This little red thing here. Trying to see if this one is broken. Yeah, so this one has a piece that's broken, so you can normally take a right angle pick. Get in here. You should be able to pull this lock tab back and then you can push down on the button. Disconnect the connector. You need to remove this bolt right here. It's attached to a bracket that is attached to the power steering hose in the back here, so just use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove that, pull that out. Just set that aside.
All right, there's a hose right here that needs to be disconnected. I'm going to disconnect this on the valve cover, there's a little tab you slide over and then you slide it up. I'll show you what the tab looks like. It's right here. You're just going to push on that tab and that will slide up. You don't necessarily have to take this off. You could just leave it connected to the intake, but this is how that tab works. You just push on that little lock and slide it up. To get this off, you just twist it to the side and lift it up, but you don't have to take that off.
All right, now I'm going to remove this vacuum hose that goes to the brake booster. I'm going to use some hose clamp pliers to squeeze this clamp. You could use some needle nose pliers, right angle needle nose pliers would be better. I'm going to use these, slide that right there, squeeze that, move that to the side. I'm just going to use a right angle pick to get underneath the hose, loosen it up then wiggle the hose. There we go, pull that off. So we need to remove this wire right here. There's some retainers. I'm just going to use a trim tool. Pop this retainer off over here. There, right here, right here and also this cover. I'm going to take this cover off. Just take this little pushpin off, just like that.
I'm going to take this bolt out right here. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket extension and a electric ratchet, you can use a regular ratchet. Pull this off. Just move it out of my way. I don't necessarily have to take this off, but I needed it out of the way for that, so I'll just pull it off completely. Or not. There we go. Just slide that out of the way. Remove these two bolts. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Pull those out. Keep in mind which one goes where. The longer one goes on this side, shorter one goes over here. You could disconnect this coolant hose. We're going to try to not. I'd rather not have to disconnect it because you could lose a little bit of coolant and have to top it off afterwards.
So we'll just push that over there and then we're going to take these six intake bolts out. Just going to use a 13 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet Double check. Make sure those are all loose. You can slide them out if you want or you can leave them in. Probably easier to just slide them out and they should be all the same size. Let me double check. Yep, they're all the same size. I can grab the intake, slide it up, slide it underneath this hose, just like that. Now if you had trouble sliding it out from there, disconnect that coolant hose, but just easier to leave it connected.
Now I'm going to remove this gasket. Just slide it up. Just try not to drop any of the dirt in there. We're just going to cover this up with some rags. We don't want anything dropping in there. You can put the rags in like that if you prefer, you can just cover the whole thing up. Just so if you drop a bolt, it won't go in there. So whether you're doing spark plugs or coils, you need to remove that intake plenum to access the back coils and plugs. We did that first before we proceeded with this job. Disconnect the connector right here. I want to use a right angle pick, pull out that lock a little bit and then push down on the tab. Slide the connector out. I'm going to use a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet, remove this bolt, slide that bolt out, grab the coil. You can just wiggle it to the side a little bit and pull it up.
Now I want to just take some compressed air, spray down in there and get any dirt out of that area. When you pull these coils out, you want to check and make sure there's no oil on the coil itself. Sometimes you'll have oil in the spark plug valley. What causes that is the head is porous and it goes into the valley or the tube is not sealing properly. Now these tubes are not replaceable, so generally that means you need to replace the head and that could cause a misfire. Also the valve cover seal right here. Keep that in mind. That could be one indication why there's oil in there. Here's the old part. Here's the new coil from 1aauto.com. Comes with a screw, which is nice. Same connector, same shape, same size, comes with the seal, which is nice. Get yours at 1aauto.com, you'll be ready to rock and roll.
Before I install the coil, I can just take a little dielectric grease, make sure it's the appropriate type of dielectric grease made for ignition systems, and then we install the coil, slide it in position, get the screws started, push it down, tighten down the screw. Then with a 10 millimeter socket and a torque wrench, I'm going to tighten this down to 89 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Then I can plug this in, lock it in place. Then I'm going to do the same procedure for the other ones.
Take these rags off there and just take some rags and just clean off any of the gasket area. You don't want any dirt in that area. You can use a little brake parts cleaner if it's really dirty, this isn't too bad, and what I like to do is just take some compressed air. Just make sure you can look down in the valleys and see if there's anything in there, but I just spray it out. Just to make sure. Take the new gasket, there is some pins on the back side of the gasket. It should line up and these cone like things, come straight up, so that looks good.
Now on the backside of the plenum, just take a rag and wipe some of this oil away. Now if you were chasing a intake leak, if you had a vacuum leak that you were trying to find, you may also need to replace the gaskets under here. You just take these bolts out right there, take that off, place those gaskets. But a lot of times it's the lower gasket. Just take the intake. Slide these wires out of your way and I'm just going to raise up on this coolant hose or if you struggle with it, just take it off, and it's lined up, like that. You can check underneath. Make sure everything's lined up down below and it looks good. Take the intake bolts, get these all started. Now I'm just going to take a 13 millimeter socket extension and a electric ratchet. You can use a regular ratchet if you don't have an electric one and I'm just going to snug these all up and then I'm going to torque them after.
Now I'm going to use the torque wrench with a 13 millimeter socket. I have to torque these down in a specific order to 18 foot-pounds, so that's number one. This is number two. Number three is right here, number four over here, number five and number six. Now once I do that, I have to go back through one more time and just double check them in the same order. And it's good. I'm going to put this installation back in position. Sometimes this is a little tricky to get on. All right, the reason for this installation is actually because the high pressure pump is very noisy. So that covers up the noise or helps cover up some of the noise, the tapping sound. Kind of sounds like a lifter, but it's really just the high pressure pump. And there we go. Put the bolt back in right there and take the push pin. Slide the push pin back in, and then I'll snug up that bolt. I'm just going to use a 10 millimeter socket extension and a electric ratchet. snug it up.
We attached this wiring harness, that's going to get pushed through right here and right here. On this back one there's a little retainer right there. Push that on. We'll take this wire connector, connect the MAP sensor, lock it in place. I'm going to hook this up before I hook up that brake booster. Just push this down, give it a twist, and then reattach it to the back valve cover. Lock it in place. Just move the wire out of the way. That's good. Now we can secure the brake booster vacuum hose right there. Now I'll use these hose clamp pliers. You can use needle nose, reposition that, make sure that's on secure. Now this bracket for the power steering line, I'll just take this little bolt, get this started right there, tighten this down. I'll just take a 10 millimeter wrench and just snug it up. Not too tight.
Here's the connector for the EVAP purge solenoid right there, the solenoid valve. Lock that in place and lock the connector down. We can take this hose, this is going to connect to it right there, just like that. Make sure that gets locked down. Give it a pull, make sure it's good, and lock this down right here. That's good. This connector is going to go to the throttle body. Slide that in position and lock it down and then this retainer goes right here over that hose. Take this longer bolt, it's going to go right here for the coolant hose and the shorter one's going right here, and if you disconnected that hose right there, reconnect it. Just make sure you top off your coolant afterwards if any drained out. Just use a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Tighten these down.
Now I'll take the snorkel. I'm just going to line this up over here. Line it up on the throttle body and then onto the air box. That's good. Before I tighten that down, there's a little grommet in the back here, just push down on that and start to tighten this bolt right here. Push that right there. That just kind of hangs out like that. Take my 10 millimeter socket extension and a ratchet. Tighten this bolt down. Take a straight blade screwdriver, we're going to tighten down these worm clamps. You can use this or you can use an eight millimeter socket to tighten them down and a ratchet. We just want to snug it down, not too tight. Just so it doesn't move. That's good. And then same on the inside near the throttle body. Just tighten that one down as well. That's good. Make sure it doesn't move.
I'm just going to take the oil cap off. We can take this cover, slide it back in position. When it's lined up, you can just push it down, push it down right there and then in the back. That's good. Put the oil cap back on. Take this screw, screw is going to go right there and just take a T30 socket extension and a ratchet and we'll tighten it down. And reconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. Just snug, not too tight. Just give it a wiggle. Make sure it's good. That's good. Take this cover, slide it back in position and lock it down.
Thanks for watching. If you want the parts to do it yourself, check out 1aauto.com, the place for DIY auto repair.
