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Part Details
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes. I found that this car actually has fairly new front brakes on it, so we're not actually putting new parts on it, just showing you how to take them off and putting them back correctly.
This process is the same for all 2000 and 2005 Impalas, and it's similar for a whole bunch of different cars that have front disk brakes, flat blade screwdrivers, a large size, 15 millimeter, 19 millimeter socket and ratchet, which obviously can be different per vehicle. A breaker bar or pipe, you might need that for leverage, and the torque wrench to get it back together correctly.
First use a screwdriver to remove the center cap. This car has aluminum wheels. If you have a hubcap it might be a little different. You may need to use a wrench to loosen up your lug nuts first while your wheels on the ground, then raise and support your car, and always follow the instructions with the jack and jack stands to jack a car. You can either place a jack or place your jack stand. You can also jack right up here onto the sub frame where the two beams meet.
I have the fortune of having air tools, so I'm going to use them. Just remove the wheel here. You can also use just turn the steering wheel and turn your wheel so you can access the brakes easily. To remove the calipers, you're going to remove two 15 millimeter bolts, one down there and one right up there.
Before you do that, you take a screwdriver or a large pry bar and put it in this hole. If your brakes are worn down more than on this car, you may have to use more angle but then you pry out and that helps to push your piston down into the caliper and makes it easier to get the caliper off.
Now, I'm going to remove those two bolts, and they shouldn't be too tight. They're usually tightened up to about 50 to 60 foot pounds, and we're going to speed it up here.
Depending on how much you pushed the piston back in, you can pull the caliper up and off. Have a screwdriver handy as I now appear with one, and just use a screwdriver to pry off the caliper and put it up top for now. Be careful not to stress your line and then the brake pads just come right off. They just pry right out of the caliper bracket.
Actually, this car has new brakes on it. I'm doing this to show you, but to remove the hub, you remove the caliper bracket by removing those two bolts, and those again are 15 millimeter bolts. You can't quite see it, but I did secure my caliper up top with a wire tie, and now I'm going to use my ratchet and a big piece of pipe.
That pipe helps me get leverage and I'm just going to pull nice and easy. I just keep applying pressure until that bolt breaks loose. Get it going some, and then I'll do the same thing up top. I'll keep continuing to add torque until it breaks loose and get it going and then I'll drop my pipe and just use my air tools to zip them out the rest of the way.
Now my caliper bracket comes up and off, and then, your rotor just comes right off like that. Now here, obviously, the rotor just goes back onto the hub and then I'll hit fast forward. I just use a lug nut to hold the hub in place while I put the brakes together.
We'll grab our bolts, and I got the large 15 millimeter bolts and put the caliper bracket on. Here is just a view from the front so you can see the caliper goes on the opposite side of the steering knuckle, closer to the rotor, and then the bolts go into it.
Now, we want to get those tightened and then tighten them up to 90 foot pounds using a torque wrench. The caliper brackets are stainless steel clips. They're slides. They pull off, and then you want to use a wire brush and just clean those up.
Those are what the calipers slide back and forth in, and then once you clean them up with the brush you can clip them back on. Obviously, this could be done with the caliper bracket off, but if you're just replacing your pads, you want to do it this way.
Now, take your pads, and they basically just slide right into those clips. There's the front side. You put them down into one side first, and then slide them into the other side, and then we'll put the back side in.
Now you want to pull your caliper down and use a large c-clamp. What I'm doing is forcing the piston all the way back into the caliper. If we slope back down here, you can see that piston with the clamp is pushing in is going back into the caliper. You do this and reset it. It lets you put your brake pads on or it lets you get the caliper down onto the brake pads very easily.
It's very important that when you put your vehicle back together, before you drive it out on the road, you want to pump your brakes about four or five times. That allows the piston to work its way back out to the proper place.
You want to make sure you pump your brakes, make sure it holds the car in gear and then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working before you drive it on the road.
Now, you can put your caliper down onto your pads. I'm just going to put that clamp down, and there are the little boots that are on the caliper bracket. You squeeze those down as you put the caliper onto the bracket. Then you grab your long bolts. These are pretty clean and well-lubricated. What you want to do is make sure you clean them off a little bit, put some grease on it, just a little bit, a sparing amount. They should slide in nicely. You might have to just kind of move those rubber boots around a little bit and work them in, and then start them by hand.
We'll fast forward as we're just putting those two caliper bolts on. I'll slope back down here. We're using a torque wrench and we're going to torque this bolts up to 50 foot pounds.
Back to fast forward here as we finish up torqueing up those bolts. Once those are done, then you want to remove that lug nut that's holding the rotor, and then you'll spin your wheel straight so it makes it easier to get the tire back on.
Now we'll put the wheel back on and you want to start all the lug nuts by hand so you don't cross-thread them, then you use your wrench or even just by hand. You just want to get the lug nuts preliminary tightened up, just so they kind of hold the wheel in place, and then you'll torque them after you let the car down back onto the ground.
We're back on the ground. We're going to torque our lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds, and you see I'm using a star pattern, basically drawing a star as I torque the lug nuts. Now we'll install our cap, and again, a very important note. Make sure whenever you do work on your brakes, get in your car, pump them a bunch of times first.
Make sure the pedal goes solid again then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Before you go out on the road, make sure your brakes are working properly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to service the front brakes on this 2000 Buick LaSabre, pretty much the same for any 2000 and 2005. It ends up this vehicle has very good brakes on it so we do just take them apart and put them back together for you. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15mm and 19mm sockets, ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, large flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, some grease, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly and you want to loosen the lug nuts. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm socket with an impact wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and then just turn the suspension so I can get a good look at the brakes.
It would appear that the brakes have been done recently on this vehicle. I can tell because here's the metal of the brake pad, here's the brake pad itself and then here's rotor and you can see there's a good probably 3/8 of an inch of pad there, which is plenty of life. Then on the outer pad, it's same thing. It's nice and thick. For the rotors, you want to try and do an inspection, run the back of your fingernail along them and you'll feel very, very small grooves but you shouldn't feel any large grooves. Then the condition of the rotors up here looks pretty good, a little bit rusty but not too bad, still nice and thick. It looks like these brakes are good but we'll show you how to take them apart and put them back together just so you have the information.
To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts, here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm socket with a ratchet and these should come apart with some force but they should come apart pretty easy. I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both of those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually the items that the caliper slide on, as well. So, I'll show a little close-up to you. These are slides. When you take them apart you want to note their condition. These probably should be cleaned up and put a little bit of grease onto them. We'll speed it up here again as I just finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. Take a large screwdriver, put it right in here, and pry out, and that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You can see I use a screwdriver to pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens it up enough so I can get the caliper up and off. Then I hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Brake pads, really easily, just pry out. As I said, there's plenty of life left in these pads. For the back one, do the same thing. It pulls right out the back side.
If you did need to replace the rotor, you'd want to remove these two bolts here. I'm using my socket again and a ratchet, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start getting them loose. I fast forward here as I use the ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both of the bolts out. Now your rotor comes right off.
Now, we're going to show you how to put the brakes back together. As you can see, there's a nice new hub on this vehicle that actually turned out to be what the car needed so we actually did a hub replacement and you can see that video on our other videos. We decided to do this brake video to help you out as well while we were doing the hub. The rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these are all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide. This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle. The bolt goes to the steering knuckle first then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Start my upper one. Speed it up here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now we'll torque these to 80 foot-pounds.
Bring your caliper down. You'll need a large C-clamp and put it into the piston and this just resets the piston all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure it's on the flat part of the back side, that it's not on the hose or anything. As you tighten it up, it forces the piston back into the caliper. I'll just speed it up as I back the C-clamp off and remove it. Put it down, and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit, put your caliper down on, and make sure those aren't bunched up. Here are my slides. I cleaned them up, and put a light coat of grease on them. The lower one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little grease on the inside and the outside of it. Put our brake pads back on. The back one just slides right in. This front one you push down in a little bit diagonally. Put it in. Put the top one back in first. Start it a little bit. Now do our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Torque these to about 50 foot-pounds. I apologize for the low volume. Fifty foot-pounds is what you want to torque those to.
Speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with an impact wrench. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. We'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts.
Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. Next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2000 Buick LeSabre. The brakes on this car end up being in pretty good shape, so we just show you how to remove them and reinstall them. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.
Tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 12, 13, 15 and 19 millimeter sockets, ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe, for some leverage, large flat blade screwdriver, a hammer, a torque wrench, and a large c-clamp. Pull firmly on this hubcap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to have your vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way.
Just fast forward here as I remove the lug nuts and remove the rear wheel. You can see my brakes are actually in pretty good shape. Right here's the metal of the pad, and then the pad itself. There's a little hole right there, that's actually the wear indicator. Once that gap, or hole, is gone, that's when you know you need to replace the pads. You can see that they still have some life left. What you're going to want to do is remove this bolt here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt. I'll fast forward here. You can see it took a little bit of force, but that bolt should come out pretty easy. Use a 13 millimeter socket and remove this bracket right here as well. Now take a good sized screwdriver, you can put it right in here and pry out a little bit. That will help reset the piston and help loosen up the caliper. Now you pull this up. You actually slide your... you want to make sure your caliper slides okay. If you're just looking to replace the pads, you can, now, just pull the pads right out from the front and in the back. As I said, these pads are in good shape. Still got most of the wear mark.
You can check the condition of your rotors just by kind of running the back of your fingernail up and down them. These are actually in pretty good shape. There's no real big grooves in them. If you did want to replace or turn your rotors, you'll want to remove this bolt and then this bolt down here further. For this, I'm going to use a larger wrench. I'm actually even going to take a piece of pipe, put it on my ratchet. This gives me a little extra leverage. Back. I'm just going to pull nice and easy till this bolt starts turning. For this bottom one, I've got a 15 millimeter wrench. It's a little bit of tight quarters. I'm actually going to take a 18 millimeter wrench and hook it on here. That's going to give me some extra leverage here. Again, just pull nice and easy till the bolt starts to come loose. I'm speeded up here again. As you can see, after just a couple turns, I'm going to be able to reach up in there and take that bolt out most of the way with just my fingers. Once you get this upper bolt off, then this whole bracket assembly just lifts right up and off. I'm going to put it up here for now. The rotor's kind of frozen. The best thing is a large hammer. Hit the center of the rotor here. Comes off.
You can see in this shot, there's a nice new hub on there. That's what this car actually needed, was a new rear hub. If you want to see more details on doing that, you can check our other videos. As I said before, the brakes on this car are in good shape, so you're just going to see me put those back together. We'll pick it up from there. Reinstall our disc. I like to just put a lug nut on here, just kind of holds everything in place. Bring our bracket down and force it inside here, down into place and start our large 15 millimeter bolt. I'm going to speed things up here as I start the first bolt, and then the other bolts, and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them with my ratchet and wrench. The bottom, I can't get a torque wrench on here, so what I'm going to do is I'll get it tight with my wrench first. Once I get it tight with the single wrench, then I hook my other wrench on and pull it tight using extra leverage. Now on the top, I use a torque wrench and torque the top bolt to 60 foot pounds.
Before you put your new pads on, you want to reset the piston in your caliper. I've got a large c-clamp pushing on the piston and then on the back caliper here. Then simply pull your caliper up, put the back one in. Put the front one on here. Put your caliper down in place. As you're pushing the caliper down, you might need to push this back like that. You want to torque this anywhere from 12 to 15 foot pounds. I'll speed it up here as I remove that lug nut, put that wheel back on, start all the lug nuts by hand first, and then you want to just, preliminarily, tighten the lug nuts before you put the car on the ground. Now use a torque wrench and torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Use a star pattern as the order in which you torque them. Any time you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm. Then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road-test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green, I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts for 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video. In this video, we're going to show you how to change the pads and routers on this '97 Cadillac Deville.
On this vehicle, the brakes are actually in good shape so we just show you how to take them apart and put them back together. You can order new routers and pads for 1A Auto, this is the same for '96 to '99 Deville. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15 and 19 mm sockets with ratchet and extension and you'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for extra leverage for a couple of bolts and also a large C-clamp. Use a screwdriver, I like to use a rag so I don't scratch the wheel or the center cap. Pry it underneath there. Your lug nuts are 19 mm, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts and then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Okay, now with your wheel turned, you can see right inside here, you can see that little hole in the brake pad that is exactly a wear indicator. It would indicate on this brake pad, you are in good shape and if you look at your outer pad, you can see that there's some still some pretty good like in it.
You want to make sure that you check both sides because sometimes you can have one side that's not worn and the other side can be more worn. Our brakes are fine, I've checked both sides but I am going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you how to do it. The next thing you want to do is remove these two bolts here, which releases your caliber. These two bolts are 15 mm. They should come apart pretty easily. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we take out those bolts. Make sure that before you put these back together that these pins are nice and clean and they have a little bit of grease on them. These look very good. Now use your wrench here to kind of pry my caliber off. All right, now just put the caliber up here out of the way. There's our inner pad again, our outer pad and you can see the wear mark there. They've got some good life on them, not a ton of miles but definitely don't need to replace them yet but if you did want to replace them you can pull your pads right out like that. Okay, now your routers and on this vehicle, most vehicles what you want to do is take your back of your fingernail and kind of run it along the routers, feel for any deep grooves or gouges and then just kind of inspect the condition of the routers and these look absolutely fine.
If you feel any grooves or there's too much rust or corrosion or your routers look thin than you do want to replace them. To remove and replace the routers, there are two large bolts here and here. These bolts are 15 mm as well so what I have here is my ratchet and I'm going to use a piece of pipe. Okay the pipe goes on there, gives me some extra leverage and I'll push slowly down on the pipe. I can feel bolts starting to break loose. On top here, I'm going to use a short extension, use a piece of pipe again. Just easy pressure until the bolt starts to break loose. Once that brackets off, the router simply comes right off. What I like to do is I just put one lug nut on to kind of hold it in place. The bracket goes between the knuckle and the router then the bolt goes in with space around the back. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we just put those bolts in and tighten them primarily. Tighten them up to 85 foot pounds. You want to use a wire brush and you can actually take these slides off and you want to clean out where the pads move back and forth. Now your pads, obviously I'm not putting new pads in because mine are fine.
What this vehicle really needed was a new hub. Put the pads back in just by placing them like that. Now if you're putting new pads on, you'll need to- you can see my cylinder is out of the caliber some so you'll need to push that cylinder back in and you can do that with a large C clamp. Okay, we'll speed it up here as we tighten up that clamp, push that piston back in. How you may want to remove check your brake fluid if it's overfull you may want to remove some of the fluid so it doesn't leak out. Now it goes down like that. Okay, put the slides back in, make sure they're nice and clean and have some grease on them, tighten them up with your ratchet and socket and pull them nice and snug. They should probably be about 25 to 30 foot pounds and then remove that lug nut and now we can put our tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand, tighten them up preliminarily with your wrench and then you'll do the rest of the tightening when the car is on the ground. Now here with the car on the ground, tighten the lug nuts up to 90 to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Most important is the last step, make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, pump your brakes a bunch of times first to do a stop from like five and then ten miles an hour before you do a road test.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to us toll-free 888-844-3393, we're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
