Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to service the front brakes on this 2000 Buick LaSabre, pretty much the same for any 2000 and 2005. It ends up this vehicle has very good brakes on it so we do just take them apart and put them back together for you. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15mm and 19mm sockets, ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, large flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, some grease, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly and you want to loosen the lug nuts. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm socket with an impact wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and then just turn the suspension so I can get a good look at the brakes.
It would appear that the brakes have been done recently on this vehicle. I can tell because here's the metal of the brake pad, here's the brake pad itself and then here's rotor and you can see there's a good probably 3/8 of an inch of pad there, which is plenty of life. Then on the outer pad, it's same thing. It's nice and thick. For the rotors, you want to try and do an inspection, run the back of your fingernail along them and you'll feel very, very small grooves but you shouldn't feel any large grooves. Then the condition of the rotors up here looks pretty good, a little bit rusty but not too bad, still nice and thick. It looks like these brakes are good but we'll show you how to take them apart and put them back together just so you have the information.
To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts, here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm socket with a ratchet and these should come apart with some force but they should come apart pretty easy. I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both of those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually the items that the caliper slide on, as well. So, I'll show a little close-up to you. These are slides. When you take them apart you want to note their condition. These probably should be cleaned up and put a little bit of grease onto them. We'll speed it up here again as I just finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. Take a large screwdriver, put it right in here, and pry out, and that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You can see I use a screwdriver to pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens it up enough so I can get the caliper up and off. Then I hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Brake pads, really easily, just pry out. As I said, there's plenty of life left in these pads. For the back one, do the same thing. It pulls right out the back side.
If you did need to replace the rotor, you'd want to remove these two bolts here. I'm using my socket again and a ratchet, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start getting them loose. I fast forward here as I use the ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both of the bolts out. Now your rotor comes right off.
Now, we're going to show you how to put the brakes back together. As you can see, there's a nice new hub on this vehicle that actually turned out to be what the car needed so we actually did a hub replacement and you can see that video on our other videos. We decided to do this brake video to help you out as well while we were doing the hub. The rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these are all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide. This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle. The bolt goes to the steering knuckle first then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Start my upper one. Speed it up here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now we'll torque these to 80 foot-pounds.
Bring your caliper down. You'll need a large C-clamp and put it into the piston and this just resets the piston all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure it's on the flat part of the back side, that it's not on the hose or anything. As you tighten it up, it forces the piston back into the caliper. I'll just speed it up as I back the C-clamp off and remove it. Put it down, and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit, put your caliper down on, and make sure those aren't bunched up. Here are my slides. I cleaned them up, and put a light coat of grease on them. The lower one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little grease on the inside and the outside of it. Put our brake pads back on. The back one just slides right in. This front one you push down in a little bit diagonally. Put it in. Put the top one back in first. Start it a little bit. Now do our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Torque these to about 50 foot-pounds. I apologize for the low volume. Fifty foot-pounds is what you want to torque those to.
Speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with an impact wrench. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. We'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts.
Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green, I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts for 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video. In this video, we're going to show you how to change the pads and routers on this '97 Cadillac Deville.
On this vehicle, the brakes are actually in good shape so we just show you how to take them apart and put them back together. You can order new routers and pads for 1A Auto, this is the same for '96 to '99 Deville. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15 and 19 mm sockets with ratchet and extension and you'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for extra leverage for a couple of bolts and also a large C-clamp. Use a screwdriver, I like to use a rag so I don't scratch the wheel or the center cap. Pry it underneath there. Your lug nuts are 19 mm, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts and then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Okay, now with your wheel turned, you can see right inside here, you can see that little hole in the brake pad that is exactly a wear indicator. It would indicate on this brake pad, you are in good shape and if you look at your outer pad, you can see that there's some still some pretty good like in it.
You want to make sure that you check both sides because sometimes you can have one side that's not worn and the other side can be more worn. Our brakes are fine, I've checked both sides but I am going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you how to do it. The next thing you want to do is remove these two bolts here, which releases your caliber. These two bolts are 15 mm. They should come apart pretty easily. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we take out those bolts. Make sure that before you put these back together that these pins are nice and clean and they have a little bit of grease on them. These look very good. Now use your wrench here to kind of pry my caliber off. All right, now just put the caliber up here out of the way. There's our inner pad again, our outer pad and you can see the wear mark there. They've got some good life on them, not a ton of miles but definitely don't need to replace them yet but if you did want to replace them you can pull your pads right out like that. Okay, now your routers and on this vehicle, most vehicles what you want to do is take your back of your fingernail and kind of run it along the routers, feel for any deep grooves or gouges and then just kind of inspect the condition of the routers and these look absolutely fine.
If you feel any grooves or there's too much rust or corrosion or your routers look thin than you do want to replace them. To remove and replace the routers, there are two large bolts here and here. These bolts are 15 mm as well so what I have here is my ratchet and I'm going to use a piece of pipe. Okay the pipe goes on there, gives me some extra leverage and I'll push slowly down on the pipe. I can feel bolts starting to break loose. On top here, I'm going to use a short extension, use a piece of pipe again. Just easy pressure until the bolt starts to break loose. Once that brackets off, the router simply comes right off. What I like to do is I just put one lug nut on to kind of hold it in place. The bracket goes between the knuckle and the router then the bolt goes in with space around the back. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we just put those bolts in and tighten them primarily. Tighten them up to 85 foot pounds. You want to use a wire brush and you can actually take these slides off and you want to clean out where the pads move back and forth. Now your pads, obviously I'm not putting new pads in because mine are fine.
What this vehicle really needed was a new hub. Put the pads back in just by placing them like that. Now if you're putting new pads on, you'll need to- you can see my cylinder is out of the caliber some so you'll need to push that cylinder back in and you can do that with a large C clamp. Okay, we'll speed it up here as we tighten up that clamp, push that piston back in. How you may want to remove check your brake fluid if it's overfull you may want to remove some of the fluid so it doesn't leak out. Now it goes down like that. Okay, put the slides back in, make sure they're nice and clean and have some grease on them, tighten them up with your ratchet and socket and pull them nice and snug. They should probably be about 25 to 30 foot pounds and then remove that lug nut and now we can put our tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand, tighten them up preliminarily with your wrench and then you'll do the rest of the tightening when the car is on the ground. Now here with the car on the ground, tighten the lug nuts up to 90 to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Most important is the last step, make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, pump your brakes a bunch of times first to do a stop from like five and then ten miles an hour before you do a road test.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to us toll-free 888-844-3393, we're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
