1990 Mercedes Benz 560SEC Rear without Acceleration Slip Regulation (ASR) Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73075

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best source on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to do a front brake job on 1998 Volvo S70, same as any '98 to 2000. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe for some extra leverage, 15 and 19mm sockets, T47 Torx bit, flat blade screwdriver, large hammer, large C-clamp, a torque wrench and a 10mm wrench. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to use 19mm socket and ratchet and a breaker bar or your tire iron. Loosen the lug nuts while your car is on the ground then lift it up and remove - lift it up and secure it and then remove the lug nuts all the way. I'll just fast forward here as I just remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire. Okay, you can check the condition of your brakes. You can see here, first the condition of your rotors if you run the back of your fingernail along the rotor, you should feel some slight grooves but nothing to big and you can see actually as I spin the rotor, you can that the pads which are right next to the rotor are still a good 3/8 of an inch thick of more so there's plenty of life left but I'm going to show you how to take these apart and put them back together anyways.

To remove the caliper, you are going to remove two caps here: one there and then one's right over here. Then there's bolts inside there. I'm using a T47 Torx bit that goes onto a ratchet, you'll need that to get a good amount of torque on it, make sure that it's in there well. They should break loose pretty easily. I'm going to speed up here as loosen those up and you loosen them and you kind of pull them out a little bit, you don't pull them all the way out of the caliper. You can use a large screwdriver, put right in here and this does two things. It helps loosen up so the caliper will come off. It also helps to reset the piston, which you need to do for the new pads. Speed up here slightly, I used my screwdriver to pry off that retainer and then screwdriver to pry on the caliper and it comes up and off. The caliper comes off, put the pads in it. The inside pad will just pull right out. Your outer pad; just pry it out at the end here and it comes right out. You hang your caliper up like that for now. Now to remove your rotor, you'll need to remove this caliper bracket, which is held on by two 15mm bolts here and here. These bolts are generally on there pretty tight. I'm going to put my ratchet on and use a piece of pipe to help me get some more leverage. Okay, nice and easy control. I'm just going to speed it up here as I repeat that for the top bolt and then I just use my ratchet to remove the bolts the rest of the way. It comes off.

Now what I need to do is put a lug nut in, a couple of quick hits usually gets it off. Okay at this point I'm going to actually start putting the brakes back together and you'll notice I'm not using new parts that's only because this vehicle, the rotors and pads are fine so I'm not usually one to put new parts onto a car that doesn't need it. Actually the reason we took this car apart was it needed a new front hub and you'll see that new hub on there a little bit later. To reinstall the rotor, put it right back on. You're going to peek in, line up your lug nut holes and then put the wheel alignment spike and you can use wrench to tighten it up. Make sure you work your disk on there and make sure it goes all the way on correctly to the hub. Now you want to put this in. Basically I'm going to put this between the rotor and steering knuckle and work your bolts in. What you need to do is just move it around a little bit, push the bolts and work them in and get them to thread in and then tighten them with your wrench and just you want to torque these 80 foot pounds.

Now what you want to do is make sure you force your piston and caliper all the way back so you can put your old inner pad in. Then use a large C-clamp and you tighten that C-clamp and it forces the piston all the way in. Okay, remove that. We can put our outer pad right in like that. Take our caliper, put that on and push our bolts in. Okay, torque these to 25 to 30 foot pounds. Okay, make sure the retaining clip back on, put it down on the bottom and then press it up, get the hooks into the caliper and also put the dust caps back on the caliper bolts as well. You can see that the tire has - the wheel has a space here and that goes over this spike so I'm going to grab this spoke below that space. Put the wheel on. Okay, I'm just going to speed it up here as I put in the lugs by hand then use my impact wrench to just preliminarily tighten the lugs. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Last but not least, make sure you pump your brakes a bunch of times. This resets the pistons in the calipers and also just do test stops from five and 10 miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best source on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.