Positive Molded: Less dust resulting in clean wheels
Application Specific Design: Extended service life, no modifications
Hardware and grease included for a complete repair
Environmentally Compliant: Meets all Better Brake Law standards
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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How To Replace Front Brakes 2006-12 Chevy Impala
Created on:
Tools used
Bearing Grease
13mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
Brake Parts Cleaner
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Pull off the center cap
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Inspecting the Brakes
Turn the rotor by hand or turn the steering wheel to turn the rotor
Check the thickness of the brake pads
Check the brake pad wear indicator
Check for gouges on both sides of the rotor
3. Removing the Brake Pads
Remove the two 13mm bolts from the brake caliper
Pry the brake pads into the caliper with a pry bar to push in the pistons
Pull the caliper aside
Pull the brake pads off by hand
Remove the brake pad slides
4. Removing the Brake Rotor
Remove the two 15mm bolts from the brake caliper bracket
Pull off the brake caliper bracket
Pull the rotor off
5. Preparing the New Brake Pads and Rotors
Clean the rotor with brake parts cleaner
Apply grease to the caliper slides
Apply grease to the brake pad tabs
Clean the brake pad slides with a wire brush
6. Installing the New Brake Rotor
Slide the rotor on
Thread on one lug nut to hold the rotor in place
Put the bracket back into place
Start the two 15mm bolts by hand
Tighten the 15mm bolts to 75 foot-pounds of torque
7. Installing the New Brake Pads
Push the brake pad slides into place
Install the new brake pads into the bracket
Put an old pad in the caliper
Use a large C-clamp and the old pad to push the pistons back
Put the caliper on
Thread the two 13mm bolts by hand
Tighten the 13mm bolts to 30 foot-pounds
8. Reattaching the Wheel
Remove the placeholder lug nut
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Fasten on the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
9. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same from the left side to the right side as well as model years 2006 through 2012. In order to replace your brakes you'll need new front brakes from 1A Auto; 19, 15, and 13mm sockets and socket wrench; a C-clamp or water pump pliers; a pry bar; and torque wrench.
By hand, use the 19mm socket to loosen the five lug nut covers. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, then you'll want to loosen the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Turn the wheel assembly outward so that you can get back behind the caliper. To check the wear on the brakes, look through the inspection window on the caliper. You see the outside and the inside pad. There's plenty of meat on those. Then check your rotor. Run your finger across it, feel for anything unusual and check for excessive rust.
There are two 13mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You can see them there. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet. You could also even use a wrench to remove those. I'm using a long flat head screwdriver to pry between the caliper and the rotor. I'm actually in the rotor there in one of the vents pushing and pulling against it to push back in the two pistons that push the brake pad out so, that I've got some room to pull the caliper off and set it on top of the strut assembly out of the way. Go ahead and pull out your brake pads. Both the inner and the outer brake pads come out just by sliding them off the caliper guide. Once you've done that there are two steel slide springs. Take those off of the caliper guide. Set them aside. We're going to reuse those.
Locate the two 15mm bolts that hold the caliper guide to the spindle assembly and remove those. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I take those out. Go ahead and pull the caliper bracket off and your brake rotor.
Here's a shot of the new brake rotor and brake pads from 1A Auto. I'm going to clean the surface of the brake rotor to get any shipping oil to keep it from rusting while it's being shipped or staying in a box off with some brake clean and a rag. Do both sides. Then, moving on to the brake pads I'm going to apply some brake grease to the ends where they sit in the caliper slides. Now those steel caliper guide slides, I'm going to go ahead and clean those up with a wire brush.
I'm putting the new rotor onto the hub assembly. I'm going to install a lug nut temporarily just to keep the rotor from falling off. Install the caliper guide and the two15mm bolts that hold it on. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I do that. I'm going to go ahead and torque those to 75 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the cleaned up steel brake pad slides into the caliper bracket. Reinstall your brake pads putting the tabs in their slides and pushing them against the rotor. I'm using a C-clamp, as you can see here, and the old brake pad in between it, I'm tightening up on that c-clamp, to re-set the pistons. Once that's all set, remove it and you'll be able to put your caliper back on to the caliper guides. Reinstall the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I tighten those up. I'm torquing those to 30 foot-pounds.
I'm going to remove that lug nut that I had on there just to hold the rotor in place and then I'm going to go and reinstall the wheel and those five lug nuts. Torque the five lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Line up the notch in your hub cap to the valve stem on your tire and wheel and then reinstall your hub cap and tighten down the five lug nut covers with your 19mm socket by hand.
Last, but not least, always make sure you get in and pump the brake pedal a bunch of times. Make sure you get a nice firm pedal before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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