Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. And the next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front struts on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same operation for the left side and the right side and we always recommend that you do replace struts in pairs. In order to do this repair you're going to need some new struts from 1A Auto. A 21 and 19 and 13 millimeter socket and socket wrench. A hammer. A pry-bar. A pipe for extra leverage if you need it. As well as a torque wrench.
Remove the hubcap by hand using a 19 millimeter socket. If you don't have the benefit of air-tools you'll want to loosen the lug-nuts with the vehicle on the ground first. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug-nuts from the tire. Locate the two 21 millimeter nuts. Using a 21 millimeter socket, a socket wrench and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the two nuts on the strut. I will go ahead and fast-forward as I remove those.
Use a hammer to knock free the two bolts that go through the strut and spindle. Use a long screw-driver or pry-bar to pry the spindle free from the strut. Locate and remove three 13 millimeter nuts on the strut-top. As you're removing the last nut, hold the strut so that it doesn't just come falling down. Here you see a side by side of the old part and the new part from 1A Auto. Going back in with the strut. Start from the bottom. Line up the three holes. And then start your three 13 millimeters nuts up top. Once you get them all started go ahead and tighten them up and I'll fast-forward as I do that. Now line up the strut with the spindle and match up the holes. You might have to pull down or push up on the spindle and hub assembly there to line them up. Go ahead and put in your two bolts. Then once you get the bolts in use a hammer to seat them into that spindle and lower strut assembly.
Now reinstall the two 21 millimeter nuts and go ahead and tighten them down. Torque the two nuts to a hundred foot pounds. Reinstall the wheel and the five lug-nuts. Torque your wheel lug-nuts to a hundred foot pounds. Once you're done torqueing the lug-nuts in a star pattern reinstall your hubcap. And make sure you see the little notch in the hubcap and put it over the valve-stem. And once you've done that you can start with just the socket itself tightening up those five 19 millimeter lug-nut cap-covers.
And after you replace your struts it is recommended that you get an alignment on your vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front sway bar link on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same for model years 2000 through 2012, and the procedure is exactly the same on the left side, and on the right side. To perform this repair, you'll need a 13, 14, and 19 millimeter sockets and socket wrench; 13 and 14 millimeter wrenches; some penetrating oil; a hammer; flat blade screwdriver; and a jack and jack stands.
Start by loosening the five plastic lug nut covers that hold the wheel cover to the wheel. For taking off the wheel, you'll be using that same 19 millimeter socket, but if you don't have the benefit of a lift or air tools, start with it on the ground. Loosen up your five lug nuts slightly. Get it safely on some jack stands and then proceed to remove the five lug nuts with your socket, socket wrench and breaker bar. Then take off your tire. I
'm going to turn the steering knuckle there a little bit so you can get a good look at the sway bar link, which is between the control arm and the sway bar. I'm using a 13 millimeter socket and socket wrench, on the bottom, and then I'm counter holding it with a 13 millimeter wrench up top, and I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I loosen those up. The bolt that goes through the center there is quite corroded and sticking to the rubber bushing, so I'm going to use some penetrating oil. I'm going to try and separate the bushings and those washers, as well as the bolt that goes through the control arm, all the bushings, and the sway bar, using a flat, long screwdriver to try and get some room, and start to pull that away. Once I do, I can just use a hammer on the top and tap it out. As you pull everything out, you'll just want to remember the position of everything, how the bushings and the washers go in.
Here you'll see the old part, rusted and corroded, and the new part from 1A Auto. That, there, is how it will go back into the car. I'm going to start with a rubber bushing against the control arm and then a washer. On top of the washer I'm going to place the metal sleeve. I'm going to use the pry bar to lift up so that I can get, then, another rubber bushing, place it on top of the sleeve with a washer underneath it. As I lift it up then I can let it down and it'll fall right into place. I've got the bolt going from the bottom with a rubber bushing. It's got the bolt, then a washer and then the rubber bushing that's going to be sitting next to or against the control arm. You can see there. You might have to twist or pull some of the stuff to get it to line up so it goes through. Again, here, I'm using a hammer. I'm going to use the pry bar again to pry up on that sway bar to give me a little bit more room. Then once I get that pushed through, I'm going to put another rubber bushing and a washer, and then the nut. Then, to summarize, from the bottom up, you've got the bolt, washer, rubber bushing, control arm, rubber bushing, washer, sleeve, washer, rubber bushing, then the top of the sway bar, then a rubber bushing, a washer, and then the nut. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I use a 14mm wrench and a 14 millimeter socket and socket wrench to tighten up the sway bar link.
I'm reinstalling the wheel and I'm going to tighten by hand the five lug nuts. Then, once I do that, I'm going to tighten them back up with the impact wrench, and then as I get the car down, I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket with a torque wrench, and torque all five lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Then, go ahead and reinstall your hub cab, lining up the notch in the hub cap with the valve stem, and then go ahead and tighten up those plastic lug nut covers
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace the rear struts on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo with unloaded struts from 1AAuto.com. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this is new rear struts unloaded from 1AAuto.com, 13mm, 18mm, 19mm, and 21 mm sockets, a ratchet with socket extensions, 14mm and 15mm wrenches, 6mm Allen bit, T45 torque's bit, hammer, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, jack, and jack stands, spring compressors and a strut socket.
Start off in the trunk. Pull back this insulation, and you'll want to remove these three 15mm nuts. You can remove this cap so that one is easier to get to. You will have to use a wrench for the back one, but you can use a 15mm socket and ratchet for the other two. Loosen up the lug nuts and pull your hubcap off. Then remove the lug nuts. You'll want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Do this if you don't have air powered tools. Now, just pull the wheel off.
Using a 14mm wrench on the back and an 18mm socket and ratchet, just remove this nut. Push the sway bar out and put it to the side. Now, remove these two 21mm nuts. Next, remove these two 13mm bolts that hold your caliper into place. Now, pry your caliper off and set it aside. Hammer the bottom of the strut to loosen the bolts and then hammer the bolts out. Now, pull your rotor off, lift the strut up, and push it back off the knuckle. Once you get it off the knuckle you can pull it down and pull it out.
Put the spring compressors on either side of the spring, and then tighten each one back and forth a little bit at a time. Now, using a strut socket and a T45 torques bit, just remove the nut at the top of the strut. A 7/8ths oxygen sensor socket can work for this as well. Now, pull the plate free and pull your spring off along with this gasket that goes down along the bottom.
For the boot you will have to kind of work it off of the bottom here. Once you get it free, you can just pull it up and off. Up top is the old unloaded strut; below it is the new unloaded strut from 1A Auto. You can see their identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Take this gasket and put it down into place. Then put your boot in place. Now, take your spring, and you want to put it down into that notch right there. Just lower it down into place. Then push your plate down onto the strut with the rounded end facing the brackets on the bottom. Put this down into place. Push down on the strut and replace the nut. Then tighten it up using your strut socket. On our new strut it's a 6mm Allen instead of the T45 Torques bit.
Now, loosen each side a little at a time and just repeat this until your spring compressors pull free. Feed the strut into place and push down on the knuckle. Feed the strut behind it. Just push it onto the knuckle and feed your bolts through. Put the two bolts in place and place the nuts on the other side just have them on there hand-tight. Now put a jack underneath the knuckle and line up the studs. You want to make sure you have at least one of them lined up. Once you can see one, just replace the nut. Now pry out right here so that the other studs will line up. Then, using the jack, just push the studs up and through. Then replace the nuts.
Now hammer these two bolts in as much as you can, and then just tighten up the nuts and pull the bolts the rest of the way through. Now torque these to 120 foot-pounds. Push the rotor into place. Then put your caliper into place and hammer it on. Then replace the bolts on the back of it and tighten them up. Make sure you push your sway bar link back into place and replace that 18mm nut.
Replace your wheel and then replace the lug nuts. Tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then torque each of these to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace your hubcap and tighten up these lug nut caps. Now, go back into the trunk and tighten up those three 15mm bolts. Put the rubber stopper and rubber bumper back on the top of the insulator, and then put the trunk trim back in place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the a rear sway bar link on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We'll show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new rear sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, 18mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 14mm wrench and jack and jack stands.
Loosen up the lug nut caps, pull your hub cap off, and then remove the lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way if you don't have air-powered tools. Then just pull the wheel off.
Using a 14mm wrench on the back and an 18 mm socket and ratchet, just remove this nut, and then repeat the process down here, removing this nut and then your sway bar link will pull free. Then remove the sway bar link from the driver's side as well.
On the left is the old sway bar link; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see that they're very similar, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new sway bar link, push it onto place, and once both studs are pushed through, replace the nuts and tighten them up.
Replace your wheel and then replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle, tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap and tighten up these lug nut caps.
