Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2006 Chevy Impala. It's similar for 2000 through 2009, as well as from the left side to the right side. Also keep in mind that any time you're replacing suspension and steering components, we always recommend that you get an alignment afterward. In order to perform this repair, you'll need a jack and jack stands; 7mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket wrench; needle nose pliers; 13mm wrench; a 7/8" or a 22mm wrench; and a tape measure.
By hand, loosen the plastic lug nut covers until they release from the lug nuts themselves. Go ahead and pull off your hubcap. You're going to use the same size 19mm sockets to remove the lug nuts once you get that cover off. If you don't have the benefit of using a lift or air tools, what you'll want to do is remove or loosen up the five lug nuts just slightly with a socket and socket wrench and breaker bar, and then, once you've got it jacked up and on the jack stands, you can proceed to remove them completely with your socket and socket wrench.
Your outer tie rod end is going to be attached to your spindle on the back side, and you'll see it there. I'm going to start by using a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin that goes through the end of the ball joint. I'm using an 18mm socket and socket wrench to remove the nut on the bottom of the outer tie rod. I'm measuring the distance from a fixed point at the boot of the inner tie rod with the center of the outer tie rod. This will give us a good starting point for when we install the new one. We can set it up to the same measurement, and that will give us a good preliminary alignment. The nut on the inner tie rod that sits against the outer tie rod is 7/8" or 22mm. Go ahead and loosen that up. I'm going to just slightly install that nut again, and give it a couple whacks to get it to pop out of the spindle. Now I'm removing the outer tie rod.
Here you can see the new tie rod on the left, from 1A Auto, and the old tie rod. It's going to be an exact match and install just like the original. Install your grease fitting and tighten it down with a 7mm socket and socket wrench.
Install the outer tie rod to the point of where the nut is on the inner tie rod, and then put it into its position on the spindle. Install the new nut that came with the outer tie rod. Measure the distance again from the boot to the center of the tie rod. Make sure it matches; adjust it if you need to. Then we can tighten up that nut. I'm going to install the new cotter pin. Put it through the threaded portion and the crown nut that you just tightened. Then peel the ears back so that it won't come loose. Use your 7/8" or 22mm to hold the nut and that 13mm wrench to hold the inner tie rod, and go ahead and tighten those down. Use a grease gun, attach it to the fitting on the outer tie rod, and squeeze until you're sure that it's full.
Reinstall the wheel and start by hand-tightening the lug nuts. With some pressure, back on the ground, torque your five lug nuts to 100 foot pounds. Then, by hand, tighten up the plastic lug nut covers, making sure that you're lining up the hole in your hubcap with the valve stem. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I do that.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front sway bar link on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same for model years 2000 through 2012, and the procedure is exactly the same on the left side, and on the right side. To perform this repair, you'll need a 13, 14, and 19 millimeter sockets and socket wrench; 13 and 14 millimeter wrenches; some penetrating oil; a hammer; flat blade screwdriver; and a jack and jack stands.
Start by loosening the five plastic lug nut covers that hold the wheel cover to the wheel. For taking off the wheel, you'll be using that same 19 millimeter socket, but if you don't have the benefit of a lift or air tools, start with it on the ground. Loosen up your five lug nuts slightly. Get it safely on some jack stands and then proceed to remove the five lug nuts with your socket, socket wrench and breaker bar. Then take off your tire. I
'm going to turn the steering knuckle there a little bit so you can get a good look at the sway bar link, which is between the control arm and the sway bar. I'm using a 13 millimeter socket and socket wrench, on the bottom, and then I'm counter holding it with a 13 millimeter wrench up top, and I'm going to go ahead and fast forward as I loosen those up. The bolt that goes through the center there is quite corroded and sticking to the rubber bushing, so I'm going to use some penetrating oil. I'm going to try and separate the bushings and those washers, as well as the bolt that goes through the control arm, all the bushings, and the sway bar, using a flat, long screwdriver to try and get some room, and start to pull that away. Once I do, I can just use a hammer on the top and tap it out. As you pull everything out, you'll just want to remember the position of everything, how the bushings and the washers go in.
Here you'll see the old part, rusted and corroded, and the new part from 1A Auto. That, there, is how it will go back into the car. I'm going to start with a rubber bushing against the control arm and then a washer. On top of the washer I'm going to place the metal sleeve. I'm going to use the pry bar to lift up so that I can get, then, another rubber bushing, place it on top of the sleeve with a washer underneath it. As I lift it up then I can let it down and it'll fall right into place. I've got the bolt going from the bottom with a rubber bushing. It's got the bolt, then a washer and then the rubber bushing that's going to be sitting next to or against the control arm. You can see there. You might have to twist or pull some of the stuff to get it to line up so it goes through. Again, here, I'm using a hammer. I'm going to use the pry bar again to pry up on that sway bar to give me a little bit more room. Then once I get that pushed through, I'm going to put another rubber bushing and a washer, and then the nut. Then, to summarize, from the bottom up, you've got the bolt, washer, rubber bushing, control arm, rubber bushing, washer, sleeve, washer, rubber bushing, then the top of the sway bar, then a rubber bushing, a washer, and then the nut. I'll go ahead and fast forward as I use a 14mm wrench and a 14 millimeter socket and socket wrench to tighten up the sway bar link.
I'm reinstalling the wheel and I'm going to tighten by hand the five lug nuts. Then, once I do that, I'm going to tighten them back up with the impact wrench, and then as I get the car down, I'm going to use a 19 millimeter socket with a torque wrench, and torque all five lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Then, go ahead and reinstall your hub cab, lining up the notch in the hub cap with the valve stem, and then go ahead and tighten up those plastic lug nut covers
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
