Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes. I found that this car actually has fairly new front brakes on it, so we're not actually putting new parts on it, just showing you how to take them off and putting them back correctly.
This process is the same for all 2000 and 2005 Impalas, and it's similar for a whole bunch of different cars that have front disk brakes, flat blade screwdrivers, a large size, 15 millimeter, 19 millimeter socket and ratchet, which obviously can be different per vehicle. A breaker bar or pipe, you might need that for leverage, and the torque wrench to get it back together correctly.
First use a screwdriver to remove the center cap. This car has aluminum wheels. If you have a hubcap it might be a little different. You may need to use a wrench to loosen up your lug nuts first while your wheels on the ground, then raise and support your car, and always follow the instructions with the jack and jack stands to jack a car. You can either place a jack or place your jack stand. You can also jack right up here onto the sub frame where the two beams meet.
I have the fortune of having air tools, so I'm going to use them. Just remove the wheel here. You can also use just turn the steering wheel and turn your wheel so you can access the brakes easily. To remove the calipers, you're going to remove two 15 millimeter bolts, one down there and one right up there.
Before you do that, you take a screwdriver or a large pry bar and put it in this hole. If your brakes are worn down more than on this car, you may have to use more angle but then you pry out and that helps to push your piston down into the caliper and makes it easier to get the caliper off.
Now, I'm going to remove those two bolts, and they shouldn't be too tight. They're usually tightened up to about 50 to 60 foot pounds, and we're going to speed it up here.
Depending on how much you pushed the piston back in, you can pull the caliper up and off. Have a screwdriver handy as I now appear with one, and just use a screwdriver to pry off the caliper and put it up top for now. Be careful not to stress your line and then the brake pads just come right off. They just pry right out of the caliper bracket.
Actually, this car has new brakes on it. I'm doing this to show you, but to remove the hub, you remove the caliper bracket by removing those two bolts, and those again are 15 millimeter bolts. You can't quite see it, but I did secure my caliper up top with a wire tie, and now I'm going to use my ratchet and a big piece of pipe.
That pipe helps me get leverage and I'm just going to pull nice and easy. I just keep applying pressure until that bolt breaks loose. Get it going some, and then I'll do the same thing up top. I'll keep continuing to add torque until it breaks loose and get it going and then I'll drop my pipe and just use my air tools to zip them out the rest of the way.
Now my caliper bracket comes up and off, and then, your rotor just comes right off like that. Now here, obviously, the rotor just goes back onto the hub and then I'll hit fast forward. I just use a lug nut to hold the hub in place while I put the brakes together.
We'll grab our bolts, and I got the large 15 millimeter bolts and put the caliper bracket on. Here is just a view from the front so you can see the caliper goes on the opposite side of the steering knuckle, closer to the rotor, and then the bolts go into it.
Now, we want to get those tightened and then tighten them up to 90 foot pounds using a torque wrench. The caliper brackets are stainless steel clips. They're slides. They pull off, and then you want to use a wire brush and just clean those up.
Those are what the calipers slide back and forth in, and then once you clean them up with the brush you can clip them back on. Obviously, this could be done with the caliper bracket off, but if you're just replacing your pads, you want to do it this way.
Now, take your pads, and they basically just slide right into those clips. There's the front side. You put them down into one side first, and then slide them into the other side, and then we'll put the back side in.
Now you want to pull your caliper down and use a large c-clamp. What I'm doing is forcing the piston all the way back into the caliper. If we slope back down here, you can see that piston with the clamp is pushing in is going back into the caliper. You do this and reset it. It lets you put your brake pads on or it lets you get the caliper down onto the brake pads very easily.
It's very important that when you put your vehicle back together, before you drive it out on the road, you want to pump your brakes about four or five times. That allows the piston to work its way back out to the proper place.
You want to make sure you pump your brakes, make sure it holds the car in gear and then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working before you drive it on the road.
Now, you can put your caliper down onto your pads. I'm just going to put that clamp down, and there are the little boots that are on the caliper bracket. You squeeze those down as you put the caliper onto the bracket. Then you grab your long bolts. These are pretty clean and well-lubricated. What you want to do is make sure you clean them off a little bit, put some grease on it, just a little bit, a sparing amount. They should slide in nicely. You might have to just kind of move those rubber boots around a little bit and work them in, and then start them by hand.
We'll fast forward as we're just putting those two caliper bolts on. I'll slope back down here. We're using a torque wrench and we're going to torque this bolts up to 50 foot pounds.
Back to fast forward here as we finish up torqueing up those bolts. Once those are done, then you want to remove that lug nut that's holding the rotor, and then you'll spin your wheel straight so it makes it easier to get the tire back on.
Now we'll put the wheel back on and you want to start all the lug nuts by hand so you don't cross-thread them, then you use your wrench or even just by hand. You just want to get the lug nuts preliminary tightened up, just so they kind of hold the wheel in place, and then you'll torque them after you let the car down back onto the ground.
We're back on the ground. We're going to torque our lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds, and you see I'm using a star pattern, basically drawing a star as I torque the lug nuts. Now we'll install our cap, and again, a very important note. Make sure whenever you do work on your brakes, get in your car, pump them a bunch of times first.
Make sure the pedal goes solid again then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Before you go out on the road, make sure your brakes are working properly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to service the front brakes on this 2000 Buick LaSabre, pretty much the same for any 2000 and 2005. It ends up this vehicle has very good brakes on it so we do just take them apart and put them back together for you. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15mm and 19mm sockets, ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, large flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, some grease, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly and you want to loosen the lug nuts. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm socket with an impact wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and then just turn the suspension so I can get a good look at the brakes.
It would appear that the brakes have been done recently on this vehicle. I can tell because here's the metal of the brake pad, here's the brake pad itself and then here's rotor and you can see there's a good probably 3/8 of an inch of pad there, which is plenty of life. Then on the outer pad, it's same thing. It's nice and thick. For the rotors, you want to try and do an inspection, run the back of your fingernail along them and you'll feel very, very small grooves but you shouldn't feel any large grooves. Then the condition of the rotors up here looks pretty good, a little bit rusty but not too bad, still nice and thick. It looks like these brakes are good but we'll show you how to take them apart and put them back together just so you have the information.
To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts, here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm socket with a ratchet and these should come apart with some force but they should come apart pretty easy. I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both of those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually the items that the caliper slide on, as well. So, I'll show a little close-up to you. These are slides. When you take them apart you want to note their condition. These probably should be cleaned up and put a little bit of grease onto them. We'll speed it up here again as I just finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. Take a large screwdriver, put it right in here, and pry out, and that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You can see I use a screwdriver to pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens it up enough so I can get the caliper up and off. Then I hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Brake pads, really easily, just pry out. As I said, there's plenty of life left in these pads. For the back one, do the same thing. It pulls right out the back side.
If you did need to replace the rotor, you'd want to remove these two bolts here. I'm using my socket again and a ratchet, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start getting them loose. I fast forward here as I use the ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both of the bolts out. Now your rotor comes right off.
Now, we're going to show you how to put the brakes back together. As you can see, there's a nice new hub on this vehicle that actually turned out to be what the car needed so we actually did a hub replacement and you can see that video on our other videos. We decided to do this brake video to help you out as well while we were doing the hub. The rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these are all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide. This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle. The bolt goes to the steering knuckle first then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Start my upper one. Speed it up here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now we'll torque these to 80 foot-pounds.
Bring your caliper down. You'll need a large C-clamp and put it into the piston and this just resets the piston all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure it's on the flat part of the back side, that it's not on the hose or anything. As you tighten it up, it forces the piston back into the caliper. I'll just speed it up as I back the C-clamp off and remove it. Put it down, and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit, put your caliper down on, and make sure those aren't bunched up. Here are my slides. I cleaned them up, and put a light coat of grease on them. The lower one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little grease on the inside and the outside of it. Put our brake pads back on. The back one just slides right in. This front one you push down in a little bit diagonally. Put it in. Put the top one back in first. Start it a little bit. Now do our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Torque these to about 50 foot-pounds. I apologize for the low volume. Fifty foot-pounds is what you want to torque those to.
Speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with an impact wrench. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. We'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts.
Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
