Replaces
Part Details
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the forward, fixed track bar on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. It's the same part and a similar process on these Monte Carlos from 2000 to 2007. We show you on the driver side but the passenger side is the same procedure. The items you will need for this are a new forward fixed track bar from 1Auto.com; 13, 18, 19, and 21 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; 21 millimeter wrench; two adjustable wrenches; torque wrench; jack and jack stands; pry bar; and a hammer.
Start off by loosening these 19 millimeter lug nut caps, and then pull your hub cap free. Then, remove these 19 millimeter lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicles is on the ground. When you raise it, remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then you can remove them entirely while the vehicle's in the air. Once the lug nuts are removed, pull your wheel free.
Then, you want to remove these two 13 millimeter bolts on the back of your brake caliper.Now pry in on the caliper. This will push in the piston and make it easier to remove. Set that aside.
Then, remove these two 21 millimeter nuts. We will fast forward as Mike does this. Hammer in between the strut just to help loosen it up and now you can just hammer those two bolts out. We will fast forward as Mike repeats the entire process on the other side.
Spray some penetrating oil on this bolt and on this bolt right here. Then just loosen up these two bolts that go into these track arms. Now, just loosen up this 21 millimeter nut and just use a 21 millimeter wrench on the other side. Jack up this center piece here that your track bars go into and then remove these four 18 millimeter bolts. We will fast forward as Mike does that. Now, carefully lower that down. Then remove this bolt far enough back that you can get the track arm free. Pull the rotor off so it doesn't fall while you are pulling this bolt out. You want to just pry up on the bolt, up and over that bar and then pull the bolt free. Now, we'll fast forward as Mike removes this bolt at the top of the track arm. To get the bolt out the rest of the way, once the nut is removed and the bolt is completely loosened, you can just pry out on this carriage here and then angle the bolt out as you twist it out and you can pull it free. Then the track arm will just pull down and out.
On top, is the new track bar from 1AAuto.com. On the bottom, is the original one. They are identical although they could be slightly longer or shorter so you may want to have your vehicle aligned after this procedure is done. Once you have it in place, just pry out with the pry bar and then angle the bolt back up into place. Once you get it in, then put the nut on the other side and just tighten it up preliminarily. Take the bolt and push it back thought the knuckle. To get it to go in you will have to have the knuckle at the right angle. Then, you can hammer it in the rest of the way making sure you angle it up and over that line. You can see he prys out as he hammers so that he can create a line easier and then hammers itdown in place. Now push this back onto that bolt and push the bolt back through it. Then replace that washer and 21 millimeter nut. We will fast forward as Mike tightens those up. Now, just raise the jack to push this carriage back into place. Replace and tighten up those four bolts.
Now push your bolts back into the strut. Just hammer them in a little bit until you can get the nut on the other side. Then, replace the nut and tighten those up and they will pull through. Then, you want to torque both of those to 120 foot-pounds.
Replace your rotor and then take your caliper and slide it back into place, lining up the holes on the back with the holes on the knuckle. Then replace those 13 millimeter bolts and tighten them up. Then repeat the process on the other side.
Now, you want to lower down the rear suspension onto two jack stands putting the pressure on the suspension and then tighten up the top track bar bolt and the lower track bar bolt as tight as you can get them. Here we are just tightening up the other track bar bolt and you will probably want to get an alignment after this is done because the track bar could be slightly smaller or larger than your old one.
Then, replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten those while the vehicle is on the ground and then you want to torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace your hubcap and tighten up those lug nut caps. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rearward, adjustable track bar on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. It's the same part and a similar process on these Monte Carlos from 2000 to 2007. We show you on the driver side but the passenger side is the same procedure. The items you will need for this are a new rearward, adjustable track bar from 1Auto.com; 13, 18, 19, and 21 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; 21 millimeter wrench; two adjustable wrenches; torque wrench; jack and jack stands; and a hammer.
Start off by loosening these 19 millimeter lug nut caps, and then pull your hub cap free. Then, remove these 19 millimeter lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground. When you raise it, remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then you can remove them entirely while the vehicle's in the air. Once the lug nuts are removed, pull your wheel free.
Then, you want to remove these two 13 millimeter bolts on the back of your brake caliper.Now pry in on the caliper. This will push in the piston and make it easier to remove. Set that aside.
Then, remove these two 21 millimeter nuts. We will fast forward as Mike does this. You can see I use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. You can use a pipe or a breaker bar for leverage. Hammer in between the strut just to help loosen it up and now you can just hammer those two bolts out. We will fast forward as Mike repeats the entire process on the other side.
Spray some penetrating oil on this bolt and on this bolt right here. Then, just loosen up these two bolts that go into these track arms. Now, just loosen up this 21 millimeter nut and just use a 21 millimeter wrench on the other side. Jack up this center piece here that your track bars go into and then remove these four 18 millimeter bolts. We will fast forward as Mike does that. Now, carefully lower that down. Then remove this bolt far enough back that you can get the track arm free. Now, remove this bolt the rest of the way. Once that bolt's removed, your adjustable track bar will pull down and out.
Up front, is the old track bar. Behind it, is the new on from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to try and set your track arm preliminarily. Our original one was not that damaged so we go the easy route, which is put a bolt through one end, adjust the length by turning that larger adjusting bolt, and then putting another bolt through until they're the same. If your arm is bent or anything you'll have to estimate it and then you'll have to get your car aligned afterwards.
Feed your track arm up into place. Replace that bolt. Replace the nut on the other side. You just want to tighten this preliminarily. You still want it loose enough to turn. Now push this back onto that bolt and push the bolt back through it. Then, replace that washer and 21 millimeter nut. We will fast forward as Mike tightens those up. Now, just raise the jack to push this carriage back into place. Replace and tighten up those four bolts.
Now, push your bolts back into the strut. Just hammer them in a little bit until you can get the nut on the other side. Then, replace the nut and tighten those up and they will pull through. Then, you want to torque both of those to 120 foot-pounds.
Replace your rotor and then take your caliper and slide it back into place, lining up the holes on the back with the holes on the knuckle. Then, replace those 13 millimeter bolts and tighten them up. Then repeat the process on the other side.
Now, you want to lower down the rear suspension onto two jack stands, putting the pressure on the suspension, and then, tighten up the top track bar bolt and the lower track bar bolt as tight as you can get them. Then, using two adjustable wrenches, make sure the adjuster on the track bar is tight.
Then, replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten those while the vehicle is on the ground and then you want to torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace your hubcap and tighten up those lug nut caps. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
