Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the a rear sway bar link on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We'll show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new rear sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, 18mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 14mm wrench and jack and jack stands.
Loosen up the lug nut caps, pull your hub cap off, and then remove the lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way if you don't have air-powered tools. Then just pull the wheel off.
Using a 14mm wrench on the back and an 18 mm socket and ratchet, just remove this nut, and then repeat the process down here, removing this nut and then your sway bar link will pull free. Then remove the sway bar link from the driver's side as well.
On the left is the old sway bar link; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see that they're very similar, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new sway bar link, push it onto place, and once both studs are pushed through, replace the nuts and tighten them up.
Replace your wheel and then replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle, tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap and tighten up these lug nut caps.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace the rear struts on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo with unloaded struts from 1AAuto.com. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this is new rear struts unloaded from 1AAuto.com, 13mm, 18mm, 19mm, and 21 mm sockets, a ratchet with socket extensions, 14mm and 15mm wrenches, 6mm Allen bit, T45 torque's bit, hammer, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, jack, and jack stands, spring compressors and a strut socket.
Start off in the trunk. Pull back this insulation, and you'll want to remove these three 15mm nuts. You can remove this cap so that one is easier to get to. You will have to use a wrench for the back one, but you can use a 15mm socket and ratchet for the other two. Loosen up the lug nuts and pull your hubcap off. Then remove the lug nuts. You'll want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Do this if you don't have air powered tools. Now, just pull the wheel off.
Using a 14mm wrench on the back and an 18mm socket and ratchet, just remove this nut. Push the sway bar out and put it to the side. Now, remove these two 21mm nuts. Next, remove these two 13mm bolts that hold your caliper into place. Now, pry your caliper off and set it aside. Hammer the bottom of the strut to loosen the bolts and then hammer the bolts out. Now, pull your rotor off, lift the strut up, and push it back off the knuckle. Once you get it off the knuckle you can pull it down and pull it out.
Put the spring compressors on either side of the spring, and then tighten each one back and forth a little bit at a time. Now, using a strut socket and a T45 torques bit, just remove the nut at the top of the strut. A 7/8ths oxygen sensor socket can work for this as well. Now, pull the plate free and pull your spring off along with this gasket that goes down along the bottom.
For the boot you will have to kind of work it off of the bottom here. Once you get it free, you can just pull it up and off. Up top is the old unloaded strut; below it is the new unloaded strut from 1A Auto. You can see their identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Take this gasket and put it down into place. Then put your boot in place. Now, take your spring, and you want to put it down into that notch right there. Just lower it down into place. Then push your plate down onto the strut with the rounded end facing the brackets on the bottom. Put this down into place. Push down on the strut and replace the nut. Then tighten it up using your strut socket. On our new strut it's a 6mm Allen instead of the T45 Torques bit.
Now, loosen each side a little at a time and just repeat this until your spring compressors pull free. Feed the strut into place and push down on the knuckle. Feed the strut behind it. Just push it onto the knuckle and feed your bolts through. Put the two bolts in place and place the nuts on the other side just have them on there hand-tight. Now put a jack underneath the knuckle and line up the studs. You want to make sure you have at least one of them lined up. Once you can see one, just replace the nut. Now pry out right here so that the other studs will line up. Then, using the jack, just push the studs up and through. Then replace the nuts.
Now hammer these two bolts in as much as you can, and then just tighten up the nuts and pull the bolts the rest of the way through. Now torque these to 120 foot-pounds. Push the rotor into place. Then put your caliper into place and hammer it on. Then replace the bolts on the back of it and tighten them up. Make sure you push your sway bar link back into place and replace that 18mm nut.
Replace your wheel and then replace the lug nuts. Tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then torque each of these to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace your hubcap and tighten up these lug nut caps. Now, go back into the trunk and tighten up those three 15mm bolts. Put the rubber stopper and rubber bumper back on the top of the insulator, and then put the trunk trim back in place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
