Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to change the rear brakes on this 2004 Trailblazer same as most '02 to '09 GM mid-size SUV; the Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Ranier, Saab 97x as well as the Isuzu Ascender. Tools you'll need: various size millimeter sockets with a ratchet, you'll want a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, two M10 x 7cm bolts, jack and jack stands, flat blade screwdriver, and a large C-Clamp, as well as a wire brush.
Rear tire, lug nuts are 19mm. If you don't have air tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, raise it, support it with jack stands, and then remove the lug nuts. I'll fast forward here as I remove the rest of the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
To check the condition of your brakes what you want to do is look right into this access hole and I'm going to turn the rotor a little bit so you can see the rotor. Right next to the rotor you can see the pad and it has a small hole there and even on the other side is a small hole. That hole is actually your wear indicator and since you can still see the hole that means that the pads actually have some more wear left probably on this vehicle another five or ten thousand miles. And then you also want to check the condition of your rotors, and you just want to run the back of your finger up and down just make sure that there's no deep grooves or anything in the rotors and even though these rotors look a little bit rusty it's just because the car hasn't been used a lot.
One thing we're going to do is take a large screwdriver and just carefully pry out on our caliper. That just gives us a little room to get it off and then the caliper is held on by two 14mm bolts, one down low and then one right up high. We'll fast forward through loosening and removing those bolts. They should come out pretty easy because you only tighten them up to about 15 to 20 foot pounds. Now the caliper comes right off, and you can use your screwdriver to pry out the pads.
Now to remove your rotors you're going to have to remove this bracket and there's two bolts; one here and one here. These bolts are 18mm. Always good if you're doing your own work to have a little piece of pipe around if you don't have a breaker bar because you're going to want to put your ratchet on here. These bolts are usually tightened to anywhere from 90 to 100 foot pounds. Just put your pipe on the wrench and then just go slow and easy apply pressure and loosen up the bolt. Now our other bolt, the sway bar is kind of in the way so what I'm going to do is take the 18mm wrench and then I'm going to hook my 17mm or just another wrench on here put them together like that. This gives me some extra leverage again. And again, pull nice and easy and slow and you'll break it free.
We'll speed it up here again as I use the wrench and the ratchet to remove those two 18mm bolts the rest of the way. That bracket comes off. Now if you're lucky pull your brake rotor right off. I'm not quite that lucky. I have two I believe these are either M10 or M12 bolts. Thread them right in. 17 mm heads. That will just help you get it out some, and that comes right off. So you might notice I've got a nice new backing plate and a new wheel stud on here. You can check out our other videos to see how I did those. The new disc from 1AAuto fits right on nicely. Now you'll want to reinstall your bracket. The bolt goes through and into the back of the axle. So, I've got my bolts preliminarily tightened. I'm going to use a torque wrench to tighten them to 90 foot pounds.
Before you go to put the brake pads on you want to make sure of a couple of things. These should slide back and forth nice and easily, nice and free. If they don't you can actually just pull them right out, clean them up and grease them and make sure that they move freely. Then these slides just kind of pull off and you want to take a wire brush and clean them out. So I've cleaned up this one and you don't have to get them perfect just get them cleaned out a little bit. Press them back into place, and now the new pads from 1AAuto, push them down in. They push into place. Same thing with the rear one here, push it down in. Push it in place.
So now if you go to put the caliper on you're going to find it doesn't fit, and that's because this piston has worked its way out as the pads wear. Just take an old pad put it right down, a nice big C-Clamp here. I'm going to use this C-Clamp to slowly push the piston back in. Make sure you work this gasket in, and now your caliper quite easily works down onto the new shoes, bolts in. Just going to fast forward as I just put those bolts in and preliminarily tighten them. You may find when you're tightening them you want an adjustable wrench or this looks like probably about a 15mm and you can just hold on to this nut right here. Mine seem to be going together pretty easily, and now we're going to torque those bolts to 20 foot pounds.
Now we are going to fast forward as we put the tire back on then start each one of the lug nuts by hand. You do want to make sure that you don't cross thread them, and then using our air wrench just preliminarily tighten the lug nuts. And now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds each, and please stay tuned to the very important last step which is to pump your brakes up before you try and road test your vehicle. And last but not least, you want to pump your brakes a bunch of times until you feel your pedal firm back up before you road test your vehicle and you can then just try and make sure you do a stop at five and ten miles an hour before going out on the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a breaker bar and a 22 millimeter socket to loosen the lug nuts of the vehicle on the ground. Just go around and loosen them all. Raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two post lift. You can use a jack and jack stands. We'll use a socket to finish removing the lug nuts. Take the wheel and tire off.
Wheel and tire is stuck to the brake rotor. I'll put a lug nut on it and put a second one on the opposite side here just lightly. Take a dead blow. We’ll just break it free. Might take a couple hits, might take one hit. Lug nuts keep it from falling off. Let's put the wheel and tire aside. I'm going to use a large flat-bladed screwdriver. Wedge it in here and then push against the caliper to compress the piston in slightly. Just pull it slowly, this way when I loosen the caliper slide pin bolts the caliper will slide off without much resistance from the pads. Perfect. Got two 14 millimeter slide pin bolts here.
I'm going to use a 14 millimeter box wrench. Start with the bottom one, loosen it. If you need to, you can counterhold the pins here with a 17 millimeter wrench. Usually they come free but if you need to, you can do that. I'll hold on to the caliper while I remove the bottom one so it doesn't fall. Slide it up and off. We can just put this right here. Pull the old pads out of the caliper bracket, and just push them out. Same for both of them.
It needs a long ratchet and a 21 millimeter socket to remove the two caliper bracket bolts. Could also use a breaker bar and then a small ratchet once they're loose and we get them both broken free before I remove one. Once they're loose, I'll just take them out with my fingers. I'll hold on to the bracket so it doesn't fall. I'll take the bracket out.
I need to remove the T30 Torx screw that's holding the rotor to the hub, using a T30 Torx bit on an extension and a ratchet. These shouldn't be in there very tight, come right out. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant between the rotor and the hub and then some down the wheel studs. Parking brake assembly is inside of here and the rotor may be stuck on it. Sometimes these rotors will come right off. Put a lug nut on so the rotor doesn't fall off, and I'll tap it with a dead blow.
I'm going to use this flat bladed screwdriver. I'm going to pop this rubber plug out, and I need to look for the parking brake release mechanism. There's a star adjustment wheel in here that needs to be turned and it will collapse the brake shoes in for the parking brake. I'll pull them away from the rotor. A rust ridge can build up inside here making it difficult for the rotor to come off so we need to relax those parking brake shoes and bring them in.
All right, so we're going to go in and we're going to push this star wheel down. Feel it start to get looser. Then adjust it all the way out until it doesn't seem to want to adjust out anymore. Feels like it there. Seems pretty loose. I know it's not hanging up on the parking brake shoes, so it might be stuck around the hub. I'm going to hit the rotor some more with a mallet. Give it a couple good hits with your dead blow, the lug nut keeps the rotor from falling all the way off and you can remove the lug nut. Take the rotor off. This is what you're doing. You're turning this adjuster wheel down and it's pulling these brake shoes in releasing them from the rotor and then when you adjust it out it's threading this out and pushing them further against it. You'll have to reset the tension on this after we put the rotor on.
Here's our original pads and rotors from our vehicle and our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. Rotor has the same lug pattern, same screw opening to mount it to the wheel hub, and same opening to access the parking brake adjustment. The pads are identical in design. These ones weren't in bad shape but I want to show you how to change them anyways. Comes with new shims on there. These will fit great and work great for you.
I'll put the rotor on backwards. Take spray parts cleaner. I'm going to clean off the oil that the rotor is shipped in so it doesn't flash rust. Just wipe it down with a rag. I'm also going to spray the inside where the parking brake shoes ride. Flip it around. Line up the opening in the rotor for the screw with the opening in the hub. I'm going to reinstall the screw. Not a lot of torque on that, just so it's tight. That's perfect.
Clean the outside face of the rotor now using brake parts cleaner. Same thing, it has oil on it. It's shipped, so it doesn't flash rust, and we just want to get rid of that. I'm going to adjust the parking brake. So the inside of this rotor is a little thicker. Kind of hear it dragging a bit. I'm going to open it up, kind of do this just by feel. I might have a little bit of drag but not too much. This is just so that when you actually use the parking brake inside the car it grabs pretty early in the engagement. You don't have to go all the way to the full extension of the parking brake handle or if it's a foot pedal all the way to the floor. It feels good there. Don't forget to put the little rubber plug back in. It keeps debris out of there.
We can reuse the caliper hardware. It's stainless steel. It just needs to be cleaned with some brake parts cleaner, a wire brush, and a rag. Just scrub it and do the same for both sides. You could also check the caliper slide pins. They should move nice and freely. These are in good shape. I'm going to leave them alone. You also need to clean inside these threaded part of the caliper bracket.
Factory uses a thread locker, so you just want to clean it out use some brake parts cleaner. We could reuse our caliper mounting bolts. You just need to clean off the old thread locker. We're going to use some brake parts cleaner, spray it down, and the wire brush. Clean up both of them. Just make sure you get it all off of there. If you have access to it, you can use a 14 by two thread die, and we'll thread this in here. It'll clean the threads out.
But the other method, you can just use a wire brush. This should thread in pretty easily. You may need to put a socket on it but it will clean all of the junk out of the threads. That's clean all the way, old thread locker out of there. You can see it's all in the die now. Apply some medium thread locker to the bolts. Do this for both of them, install the caliper bracket. I'm going to torque these to 129 foot-pounds. It clicks, there's no need to go any more. Lightly spray the brake pads with some brake parts cleaner.
We don't want any dirt, oil, or grease in the brake pad material. You don't have to soak them, just give them a light spray. Little bit of caliper grease on the ears. This larger curve on the pad is going to match the curve in the rotor. Just slide them in place, push them into the clips. Just like that. Do the same for the outside pad. We've got our caliper here. When you compress this piston back into the caliper so that will fit over our new brake pads because they are thicker than the old ones because they wore out. I'm going to put this on here, the old brake pad. Take a large C Clamp. Shouldn't take much effort, we'll just push the piston back in there.
This one's not even that far out. That should be good there. Make sure that this line's not twisted up when you try to do it. Slide it right over the pads. Make sure it gets over the pins. Install the upper bolt, install the lower one. I'm going to use a 17 millimeter open ended wrench to counterhold the slide pin bolt and I will torque this bolt to 20 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel and tire. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. Going to lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Before you start and move the vehicle gently press on the brake pedal. This will bring the caliper, the cylinders out that we've compressed to meet the pads. You'll feel it start to build up pressure. You don't need to smash it to the floor. Just gently pump it till it builds up pressure. Just like that.
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