Replaces
Part Details
This window regulator is a high quality aftermarket part that meets or exceeds the performance of the original. Subjected to extensive testing and quality control standards, allows us to offer this regulator with our superior warranty!
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear window regulator on this 2012 Chevy Traverse. We show you on the driver's side, but the passenger's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new rear window regulator from 1AAuto.com, a 90-degree pick, T30 Torx bit and ratchet, or a T30 Torx driver, a door panel clip tool, a putty knife, a flat blade screwdriver, and a 10mm socket and ratchet with an extension.
Start off by prying off this triangular panel, and then you want to remove the panel behind your door handle. To do that, use a 90-degree pick, stick it through that hole at the top of the panel, and then just pry out on the panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry off the panel on the door pull handle, and then remove these three T30 Torx bolts. We'll just fast-forward as Don does this. The clips on the back of these door panels are hard to get started, so what we do is we use a putty knife to protect the paint. Then we stick a clip tool up along the putty knife onto the clip. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver in between the two of them, you pry out and it will release that clip. Once you've got it started, reach up behind, pry and out on the clip, and you want to lift up the edges too and then lift the door panel up and over the lock and just pull it forward.
On the back of your interior door handle, you'll see this cable. You want to just push it out of the bracket and pull it up and out of the door handle. Then below it, there's this harness. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry out this white clip, and then push the tab on the harness and pull it free. Using a pair of pliers, pry out these clips, and you do have to move them back and forth until they work their way out. Once the clips are removed, it will pull right off. Now, you want to carefully cut off your water shield, and you don't want to damage it, because you do need to put this back into place later.
Right here is your window regulator, and you want to start off by removing these two 10mm bolts. There's one right there and one right there. If your window is somewhere else, you just want to push it down to this point so that you can remove these bolts. Once those are removed, lift your window up and tape it into place.
Now, disconnect this harness by pushing on the tab and pulling it free. Now pry off this rubber tab, and you'll see a 10mm bolt right there, a 10mm nut there, and a 10mm bolt right there. We'll just fast-forward as Don removes those. Once those are removed, push the regulator back, down, and then pull it out.
In the back is the old rear window regulator; up front is the new one. You can see they're identical and they'll mount exactly the same. Take your new window regulator, feed it back up into the door, and then push that stud in the middle back through the door, and replace that 10mm nut, those two 10mm bolts, and tighten them up. Reconnect your harness.
Next, remove the tape from your window and push your window back down into the window regulator. You want to line up the holes on the window with the holes on the regulator and replace those two 10mm bolts. Replace your water shield and now replace that block and those two clips. Then replace that rubber cap and the one below it.
To reinstall your door panel, reconnect that harness and then replace the white clip that locks it into place. Take your door handle cable, put it back into the door handle, and then push it back into the bracket. Hang your door panel up over the lock and down into the window seal. Now look back behind the door panel and make sure the clips are lined up, and then hit them into place. We'll just fast-forward as he replaces those two T30 bolts in the pull handle and the one behind the door handle, and then replace the pull handle panel and that small panel behind the door handle. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video we're going to be working with our 2012 GMC Acadia. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the rear window regulator and motor. We happen to be working on the driver side, but this process is exactly the same on the passenger side.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this vehicle, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, T15-T30 Torx, flat head screwdriver, painter’s tape, pick tools
On the bottom side of the door panel, right about in the center, you'll find this notch, which allows us to use another one of our non-marring pry tools to reach up behind the clip for the door panel. You want to get the fork on either side. Pry out.
As you pop these out, you'll want to either wedge another one of the pry tools in there to keep it from going back together. The more of these you pop out, the easier they get. There are also a few clips behind this upper piece, here. You'll have to make sure you get those out, as well, and along the other side. Once all your tabs have been popped out, lift up and remove your door panel. Push down on the tabs that anchor the latch cable into its slot. We're going to use a small flat blade to get a little more leverage on them. Once it's through, pull the bare wire through the opening, line it up with the slot, and pull the ball out of the interior door latch. Lay the panel out. Pull down on the safety tab for the window switch connector, and then remove it.
We'll use a non-marring pry tool, here, to remove the plastic clips for this foam pad. You could also do this with a pair of side cutters or screwdrivers, but these are usually a pretty good way of getting the clips up. Once the clips are out, remove the foam from this insulator. The adhesive used on these particular weather shields are pretty strong, so we're going to use a razor blade to cut through the middle of the adhesive. As long as you keep this stuff clean and get a nice clean cut on it, it'll re-adhere nicely without us having to change it all out. Make sure you keep tension away from it. Otherwise, it'll stick back together and you'll have to start over.
Once you've cut through all the adhesive, make sure to lay the panel down this way so the adhesive is facing up in a clean dry place so we can reuse it rather than have to peel all this off and reapply.
Remove these plugs in the door panel here. This upper one reveals the top bolt for our window regulator, and the lower one will allow us access to the second bolt securing our window onto the regulator. We'll have to reconnect our door panel and turn the key on to run this up until we can access that 10mm bolt through this opening. Bring the window up until you can access that 10mm bolt easily through the opening. Then we'll redisconnect the window switch, set our panel off to the side, and turn our key off. Remove the two 10mm bolts at the bottom of the window. We're going to use a 10mm socket, ratchet and extension.
Now there's two methods to secure the window up and out of the way. We're going to use folded cardboard and wedge it in between the weatherstrip and the window itself. Or you can wrap tape from one side of the window over the top of the door panel and onto the other side of the glass, which works better as long as it's warm enough out for you to be doing it with the tape and still have it adhere.
We recommend you use painter's tape for that because duct tape or anything else will leave a residue on your paint that you'll have a hard time cleaning off. Lift the window all the way up and out of the way. Fold strips of cardboard in half and then wedge them in between the weather strip and the glass. Disconnect the electrical connector on the window motor. Remove this 10mm bolt, this 10mm nut, and loosen this one about half way so you can slide it out of the slot in the top. After loosening the top bolt a couple of turns, push it up and pull back to release it from the slot. Lay the window regulator down and remove it from the vehicle.
When reinstalling or installing a new window regulator and motor, install the top bolt a couple of threads and make sure the motor faces you when you install it, as this stud will go through this hole here. Be careful not to bend or twist it in any way when installing it into the door. The regulator stays between you and the window. Place that top bolt you started into the slot at the top. Then pull it down into the keyhole.
Line up the stud. Start the nut and bolt at the bottom. Then you can tighten up all your 10mm hardware with your socket and ratchet. Reconnect the electrical connector on your motor. Now we reinstalled our old regulator, so this is at the right height that we can drop our glass back down onto it and reinstall the bolts. But if you're using a new one or a junkyard one that isn't in that same place, you'll have to reconnect your door panel the way we showed you earlier and use the switch to bring it up and down until you can get through the access hole. Support the glass with one hand and remove your cardboard wedges. You can then lower the glass back down carefully and set it back onto the regulator.
Be sure that these hook over this steel plate. We can reinstall one of our 10mm bolts here easily. If you don't have a magnetic socket for the other side, what you can do is put a little bit of brake grease, wheel bearing grease, white lithium, or anything you have handy onto the head of the other bolt. That way, when we put it into our 10mm socket it will stay in there nice and tight while we line it up. Once everything's back in place, snap those rubber covers back into the holes.
Reinstall the weather shielding. Make sure the holes for the Styrofoam's clips line up. Then you should just be able to put a little pressure on the adhesive and get it to seal back up as long as you cut it nice and keep it clean. Line up the clips, and reinstall the foam insulator.
Reinstall the electrical connector for the power window switch, and lock the safety back into place. Reinstall the ball on the end of the cable into the door handle. Lay it into the groove, and then snap the anchor back in. Line up the door lock rod into its slot. Snap the top tabs in, and lay the top of the door into its channel. You can then begin snapping in the plastic clips on the back. Using your T30 Torx screwdriver, reinstall the three screws. Reinstall the screw covers behind the door handle and over this door pull. With the wooden trim, you'll want to set the top into place first, and then line up the rest until it snaps in. Reinstall the door lock cover as far down as it'll go. Be sure the lock rod is all the way up when you do this. Then snap the cover in, and make sure it moves up and down smoothly.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working on our 2012 GMC Acadia. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front window regulator and motor assembly. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this vehicle, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10mm socket, T30 Torx bit, ratchet, socket extension, painter’s tape, flat head screwdriver, razor blade, pick tool
Locate this notch in this cover panel inside of the door handle. Pull down. We're using a 90 degree hook pick here, but you could also use a trim tool or a small flat blade screwdriver. We'll also remove this cover inside the interior door latch. Again, there is a specific notch for you to pull from. Pop that panel out as well. This screw and the two behind the first cover we removed come out with a T30 Torx socket, a ratchet, and an extension. Lift up on your door lock. Using that same pick, we'll go in and release this panel to remove the actual lock.
On the bottom of the door panel, you'll find this notch which is designed for a plastic interior trim removal tool available from 1AAuto.com. You could also get this done with a pair of flat blade screwdrivers if you tape them up to try to protect the paint and the plastic panel, but these are the best solution for it. You want to push this up in between the panel and pry out until the plastic clip pops. You'll be able to see more of them as you pull more of the panel off. Get the forked end of the tool on either side of the pin and pry out. Be sure to hold the panel out, otherwise when you're moving around looking for these pins, and they could fall back in and make you have to start over. Once you have a few of the pins out, you may be able to just reach back and pull the rest of the panel out by hand.
Once all the clips are released, you can lift up, release the door latch cable by pushing up on the leg at the bottom and prying down on the one at the top, pulling the cable through the opening. You can then get the bare cable out. Slide it through the notch. Rotate it around, and pull the ball out of out of the release. Disconnect the electrical connectors through the door panel. It's the bottom green and bottom gray. Remove this clip retainer. This is another place where an interior trim removal tool comes in handy. We'll have to remove the clip from its retainer here as well and the gray one below it. Disconnect these as well. You can now set the door panel off to the side.
Then we'll use our trim removal tool or you could use a pair of side cutters to get back here and pry or a screwdriver, but this is the best way to do it without damaging the panel. Pry out on the two clips: one there and one down here at the bottom. Once the foam is out, we can remove this weather shield. The adhesive they use here can be pretty tough, so sometimes it's nice to take a razor blade and just cut right down the middle of the adhesive.
Once you get it going it's a lot easier to remove. We use our trim tool again, and pop out these two rubber plugs here inside of the door panel. This one reveals one of the bolts to remove our window regulator, with this one is an opening to allow us to access the bolt that clamps the window together. We'll have to move the window up now until we can see that bolt in the opening. Reconnect these two connectors that go to the window motor and regulator on our door panel.
We'll turn our key on in the vehicle, and roll the window up until we can get our 10 millimeter socket through that bottom opening, and onto the clamp for our window. Right there is perfect. Now we'll shut our key off, disconnect the panel, but keep it close because we'll need it again in a moment. Using our 10 millimeter socket ratchet and extension, we'll fully remove the 10 millimeter bolt here at the bottom of the window, and the other one which we can access through this opening now that we rolled our window up. Once those bolts are out fully, we can slide our window up and tape it up out of the way so we can get our regulator out.
Make sure you have painters tape ready to secure the window at the top of the opening. Alternative to the tip because it's a little cold in our shop for that tape to be adhering to the window properly, is to use little strips of cardboard. You want to tear them off about that big, fold them in half. You're going to want a few of these. The same concept that I've done with our trim tool here, and if you have these this is another option. Without the trim tool, you simply take the cardboard and wedge it in between the weather strip and the glass nice and tight. Go ahead and do that in a few places, and it will hold our window up while we work.
Disconnect these three screws securing the motor and the bottom of the regulator here with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, as well as the bolt that lays behind the top plug we removed earlier. Once the last bolt comes out, reach in and move the regulator until we can get the connector off the bottom of our window motor. Push that red safety tab out, and pull the connector down. Then it's just a matter of finding the right angle to get this regulator out of the truck.
The window regulator will be reinstalled with the motor facing out, and this stud is the one that came through the opening over here. We'll go ahead and place it back inside of the window. Be very careful not to bend this in anyway, otherwise it could change the path of your window going up and down, and potentially cause it to break. Connect the electrical connector to the bottom of the motor, and push that tab in until it locks. Make sure that the window regulator is on the front side of the glass, being between you and the window when you feel it up at the top.
Realign all the holes, as well as getting the stud back through. Reinstall all of your hardware. Once all the hardware has been started, tighten it down with your 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now place a hand underneath the window and remove the cardboard wedges we installed. If they fall down somewhere you can't get them, push the window down some, and then work it back up so you can get finger onto the cardboard. Lower the window back onto the regulator. The regulator should come in the correct place to reinstall the glass, but if it doesn't, reconnect the switch the same way we did before, and move it to the appropriate location. Once the holes are lined up you can reinstall your two 10 millimeter bolts into the window brackets.
Since we have to reach through the opening here to install this bolt, we want to make sure it doesn't fall out of our socket. You can put a little bit of break grease or White Lip wheel bearing grease, whatever you have handy. Just get a good thick coat of it there around the sides of the head of the bolt. When we put it into our socket, it stays in there while we line it up. Then you can tighten down your bolts with your 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now you're ready to reinstall your door panel.
Reinstall the access plug into the side of the door. Reinstall the weather shielding inside of the door. Just pat down along all the edges to make sure that adhesive sticks back together. This stuff's pretty resilient so as long as you don't tear it up too bad removing it, it sticks back together nicely. Then we'll take our foam insulator here, line up the pins, and push them right back into place.
Reconnect your electrical connectors. Remember that these two here have to be snapped back into their spots on the door before we can reconnect the mirror sides. Reinstall the door latch cable into the opening at the back of the handle. Pull the cable out, and then set the retainer back in. Lift your door panel up over the lock rod here. Once the panel's lined back up, snap all the retainers back into place. Once the retainers are all clipped back in, you can reinstall your three T30 Torx screws. Reinstall the plastic covers. These ones have tabs on the bottom that need to be set in first, and then you roll the clips at the top over until they snap. The one behind the door latch simply snaps straight into place. Slide the lock cover over as far as it'll go. Snap the latch back in.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
