2009 Saturn Outlook Rear Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Power Power Window Motor & Regulator Assembly Set TRQ WRA50753

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2012 GMC Acadia. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the rear window regulator and motor. We happen to be working on the driver side, but this process is exactly the same on the passenger side.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this vehicle, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, T15-T30 Torx, flat head screwdriver, painter’s tape, pick tools

On the bottom side of the door panel, right about in the center, you'll find this notch, which allows us to use another one of our non-marring pry tools to reach up behind the clip for the door panel. You want to get the fork on either side. Pry out.

As you pop these out, you'll want to either wedge another one of the pry tools in there to keep it from going back together. The more of these you pop out, the easier they get. There are also a few clips behind this upper piece, here. You'll have to make sure you get those out, as well, and along the other side. Once all your tabs have been popped out, lift up and remove your door panel. Push down on the tabs that anchor the latch cable into its slot. We're going to use a small flat blade to get a little more leverage on them. Once it's through, pull the bare wire through the opening, line it up with the slot, and pull the ball out of the interior door latch. Lay the panel out. Pull down on the safety tab for the window switch connector, and then remove it.

We'll use a non-marring pry tool, here, to remove the plastic clips for this foam pad. You could also do this with a pair of side cutters or screwdrivers, but these are usually a pretty good way of getting the clips up. Once the clips are out, remove the foam from this insulator. The adhesive used on these particular weather shields are pretty strong, so we're going to use a razor blade to cut through the middle of the adhesive. As long as you keep this stuff clean and get a nice clean cut on it, it'll re-adhere nicely without us having to change it all out. Make sure you keep tension away from it. Otherwise, it'll stick back together and you'll have to start over.

Once you've cut through all the adhesive, make sure to lay the panel down this way so the adhesive is facing up in a clean dry place so we can reuse it rather than have to peel all this off and reapply.

Remove these plugs in the door panel here. This upper one reveals the top bolt for our window regulator, and the lower one will allow us access to the second bolt securing our window onto the regulator. We'll have to reconnect our door panel and turn the key on to run this up until we can access that 10mm bolt through this opening. Bring the window up until you can access that 10mm bolt easily through the opening. Then we'll redisconnect the window switch, set our panel off to the side, and turn our key off. Remove the two 10mm bolts at the bottom of the window. We're going to use a 10mm socket, ratchet and extension.

Now there's two methods to secure the window up and out of the way. We're going to use folded cardboard and wedge it in between the weatherstrip and the window itself. Or you can wrap tape from one side of the window over the top of the door panel and onto the other side of the glass, which works better as long as it's warm enough out for you to be doing it with the tape and still have it adhere.

We recommend you use painter's tape for that because duct tape or anything else will leave a residue on your paint that you'll have a hard time cleaning off. Lift the window all the way up and out of the way. Fold strips of cardboard in half and then wedge them in between the weather strip and the glass. Disconnect the electrical connector on the window motor. Remove this 10mm bolt, this 10mm nut, and loosen this one about half way so you can slide it out of the slot in the top. After loosening the top bolt a couple of turns, push it up and pull back to release it from the slot. Lay the window regulator down and remove it from the vehicle.

When reinstalling or installing a new window regulator and motor, install the top bolt a couple of threads and make sure the motor faces you when you install it, as this stud will go through this hole here. Be careful not to bend or twist it in any way when installing it into the door. The regulator stays between you and the window. Place that top bolt you started into the slot at the top. Then pull it down into the keyhole.

Line up the stud. Start the nut and bolt at the bottom. Then you can tighten up all your 10mm hardware with your socket and ratchet. Reconnect the electrical connector on your motor. Now we reinstalled our old regulator, so this is at the right height that we can drop our glass back down onto it and reinstall the bolts. But if you're using a new one or a junkyard one that isn't in that same place, you'll have to reconnect your door panel the way we showed you earlier and use the switch to bring it up and down until you can get through the access hole. Support the glass with one hand and remove your cardboard wedges. You can then lower the glass back down carefully and set it back onto the regulator.

Be sure that these hook over this steel plate. We can reinstall one of our 10mm bolts here easily. If you don't have a magnetic socket for the other side, what you can do is put a little bit of brake grease, wheel bearing grease, white lithium, or anything you have handy onto the head of the other bolt. That way, when we put it into our 10mm socket it will stay in there nice and tight while we line it up. Once everything's back in place, snap those rubber covers back into the holes.

Reinstall the weather shielding. Make sure the holes for the Styrofoam's clips line up. Then you should just be able to put a little pressure on the adhesive and get it to seal back up as long as you cut it nice and keep it clean. Line up the clips, and reinstall the foam insulator.

Reinstall the electrical connector for the power window switch, and lock the safety back into place. Reinstall the ball on the end of the cable into the door handle. Lay it into the groove, and then snap the anchor back in. Line up the door lock rod into its slot. Snap the top tabs in, and lay the top of the door into its channel. You can then begin snapping in the plastic clips on the back. Using your T30 Torx screwdriver, reinstall the three screws. Reinstall the screw covers behind the door handle and over this door pull. With the wooden trim, you'll want to set the top into place first, and then line up the rest until it snaps in. Reinstall the door lock cover as far down as it'll go. Be sure the lock rod is all the way up when you do this. Then snap the cover in, and make sure it moves up and down smoothly.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Behind this interior door handle there is a cover. You can take a pick. There is a little cut-away, where you can grab underneath it and slide that off. There's some clips. Now we can take this trim piece off. Use a trim tool. Just try to get underneath here, and just pry it out. And it just slides off. Now there's three screws. You're gonna use a Torx driver, a T30, right there, right there, and right there. Take those three screws out. You can use a magnet to get that last bolt out. Now there's gonna be some clips, some push pins, all the way around the perimeter of the door panel. Just use a trim tool. You can start at the bottom. There is a little gap right in the middle here. You might have to use a combination of trim tools. And if you want to, you can take this little button off. You have to roll the window down and from the backside there's a little clip. You can pry that clip out with a straight-blade screwdriver. But you don't necessarily have to take that off, the door panel will slide over it. And then underneath this trim right here, pop that out. And slide the door panel out. And slide it up. There we go. And there's a cable right here. You have to remove that cable, it goes through the door handle. Just use a small screwdriver. There's two little ears that you have to push down. Or you can use needle-nose pliers also. All right, slide that out. Slide the cable with the ball end out. These are those little clips that you're gonna push down with the screwdriver. If you put a little pressure on it as you're pulling it out, you can push one down and then push the other one down.

Then disconnect the electrical connector right here. This is a little safety tab, just pull down on that. Push down on the connector, a little lock. There's two push pins right here underneath this foam pad, or above this foam pad. Just use a trim tool, get under these two push pins. And then just try to slide this off. Try not to break the foam pad. Now we can take this vapor barrier off. If you want to, you can use a knife and just cut some of the adhesive. That might make it easier to remove. Or just try to peel it. You might have to get some new adhesive when you put it on. For the most part, it should stick to itself. That's good.

At this point you can turn the key on and we're gonna reconnect the window switch because I wanna lower that window. And there's a screw right here and there's a screw that's gonna be behind this little access panel, so try to lower the window right about there. Then you're gonna disconnect the connector. And then turn the key back off. I'll take this little cover off right here. You can just use a pick. And then take a 10-millimeter socket. Take this bolt out right here. And the one that goes through that hole. Now the window should be loose, you can just grab the window and just slide it all the way up. It makes it easier if you have an assistant to hold the window while you tape the window, or vice versa. And just make sure the window's clean so the tape actually sticks to it. Now we can disconnect the electric motor. Just take a small screwdriver, disconnect the connector. And we're gonna take this plug off. Just use a pick tool, just get this plug out. And then you can access the bolt right there.

Take a 10-millimeter socket, take this bolt out. Take this nut off, and then there's another bolt at the bottom. All 10-millimeter. You might have to use a magnet to get that one out. And just grab the regulator and motor. And take the last nut off. Just slide it out. Just like that. Now take the new window regulator, and motor, and just slide it in position. Line that stud up. Get that nut started. And get the bottom bolt started. And get the top one started. And once you get them all started, then you can go back and snug them down. And then take the connector, plug the connector in. Now I'm just gonna wire-tie this wire, just so it doesn't get caught in the mechanism at all. Just so it's out of the way. And just trim the excess. And now turn the key on again and reconnect the switch, the window switch. Now I'm just gonna lower this down. Just so I can access it through that hole there.

Now, disconnect the window switch again and turn the key off. Now, grab underneath and hold the window. You should be able to take the tape off. And slide the window down. And line it up with the bracket on the regulator. There is a couple hooks that should hold it in place. Now take those two bolts and get them started. Right there. And through the access hole. And just tighten those bolts up. That's good. Now we can take these plugs, put this one back in. And same on the top. And slide the vapor shield in place. Take this foam pad, line it up and push the push pins back in. And reconnect the connector for the window switch. And lock it down. And take the cable for the door handle, slide it in right there. Slide the ball in. And lock it in place just like that.

Then you can take the lock rod and we'll line this up. Again, if you wanted to take that off, you could, but you don't need to. And just slide it in position, just like that. Now you wanna clamp the top part of the door panel into the door first, make sure that's all lined up. That's good. Then line the push pins up on the back side. Once those are lined up, you can just push the door. Push the panel back on. That's good. Now take the three screws, line those back up, then tighten 'em down. Now, take this trim piece, line it up. And snap it down. Then take this cover and line it in position. Lock it down.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. We've created thousands of videos to help you install our parts with confidence. That saves you time and money, so visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working on our 2012 GMC Acadia. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front window regulator and motor assembly. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this vehicle, as well as many other makes and models. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10mm socket, T30 Torx bit, ratchet, socket extension, painter’s tape, flat head screwdriver, razor blade, pick tool

Locate this notch in this cover panel inside of the door handle. Pull down. We're using a 90 degree hook pick here, but you could also use a trim tool or a small flat blade screwdriver. We'll also remove this cover inside the interior door latch. Again, there is a specific notch for you to pull from. Pop that panel out as well. This screw and the two behind the first cover we removed come out with a T30 Torx socket, a ratchet, and an extension. Lift up on your door lock. Using that same pick, we'll go in and release this panel to remove the actual lock.

On the bottom of the door panel, you'll find this notch which is designed for a plastic interior trim removal tool available from 1AAuto.com. You could also get this done with a pair of flat blade screwdrivers if you tape them up to try to protect the paint and the plastic panel, but these are the best solution for it. You want to push this up in between the panel and pry out until the plastic clip pops. You'll be able to see more of them as you pull more of the panel off. Get the forked end of the tool on either side of the pin and pry out. Be sure to hold the panel out, otherwise when you're moving around looking for these pins, and they could fall back in and make you have to start over. Once you have a few of the pins out, you may be able to just reach back and pull the rest of the panel out by hand.

Once all the clips are released, you can lift up, release the door latch cable by pushing up on the leg at the bottom and prying down on the one at the top, pulling the cable through the opening. You can then get the bare cable out. Slide it through the notch. Rotate it around, and pull the ball out of out of the release. Disconnect the electrical connectors through the door panel. It's the bottom green and bottom gray. Remove this clip retainer. This is another place where an interior trim removal tool comes in handy. We'll have to remove the clip from its retainer here as well and the gray one below it. Disconnect these as well. You can now set the door panel off to the side.

Then we'll use our trim removal tool or you could use a pair of side cutters to get back here and pry or a screwdriver, but this is the best way to do it without damaging the panel. Pry out on the two clips: one there and one down here at the bottom. Once the foam is out, we can remove this weather shield. The adhesive they use here can be pretty tough, so sometimes it's nice to take a razor blade and just cut right down the middle of the adhesive.

Once you get it going it's a lot easier to remove. We use our trim tool again, and pop out these two rubber plugs here inside of the door panel. This one reveals one of the bolts to remove our window regulator, with this one is an opening to allow us to access the bolt that clamps the window together. We'll have to move the window up now until we can see that bolt in the opening. Reconnect these two connectors that go to the window motor and regulator on our door panel.

We'll turn our key on in the vehicle, and roll the window up until we can get our 10 millimeter socket through that bottom opening, and onto the clamp for our window. Right there is perfect. Now we'll shut our key off, disconnect the panel, but keep it close because we'll need it again in a moment. Using our 10 millimeter socket ratchet and extension, we'll fully remove the 10 millimeter bolt here at the bottom of the window, and the other one which we can access through this opening now that we rolled our window up. Once those bolts are out fully, we can slide our window up and tape it up out of the way so we can get our regulator out.

Make sure you have painters tape ready to secure the window at the top of the opening. Alternative to the tip because it's a little cold in our shop for that tape to be adhering to the window properly, is to use little strips of cardboard. You want to tear them off about that big, fold them in half. You're going to want a few of these. The same concept that I've done with our trim tool here, and if you have these this is another option. Without the trim tool, you simply take the cardboard and wedge it in between the weather strip and the glass nice and tight. Go ahead and do that in a few places, and it will hold our window up while we work.

Disconnect these three screws securing the motor and the bottom of the regulator here with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, as well as the bolt that lays behind the top plug we removed earlier. Once the last bolt comes out, reach in and move the regulator until we can get the connector off the bottom of our window motor. Push that red safety tab out, and pull the connector down. Then it's just a matter of finding the right angle to get this regulator out of the truck.

The window regulator will be reinstalled with the motor facing out, and this stud is the one that came through the opening over here. We'll go ahead and place it back inside of the window. Be very careful not to bend this in anyway, otherwise it could change the path of your window going up and down, and potentially cause it to break. Connect the electrical connector to the bottom of the motor, and push that tab in until it locks. Make sure that the window regulator is on the front side of the glass, being between you and the window when you feel it up at the top.

Realign all the holes, as well as getting the stud back through. Reinstall all of your hardware. Once all the hardware has been started, tighten it down with your 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now place a hand underneath the window and remove the cardboard wedges we installed. If they fall down somewhere you can't get them, push the window down some, and then work it back up so you can get finger onto the cardboard. Lower the window back onto the regulator. The regulator should come in the correct place to reinstall the glass, but if it doesn't, reconnect the switch the same way we did before, and move it to the appropriate location. Once the holes are lined up you can reinstall your two 10 millimeter bolts into the window brackets.

Since we have to reach through the opening here to install this bolt, we want to make sure it doesn't fall out of our socket. You can put a little bit of break grease or White Lip wheel bearing grease, whatever you have handy. Just get a good thick coat of it there around the sides of the head of the bolt. When we put it into our socket, it stays in there while we line it up. Then you can tighten down your bolts with your 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now you're ready to reinstall your door panel.

Reinstall the access plug into the side of the door. Reinstall the weather shielding inside of the door. Just pat down along all the edges to make sure that adhesive sticks back together. This stuff's pretty resilient so as long as you don't tear it up too bad removing it, it sticks back together nicely. Then we'll take our foam insulator here, line up the pins, and push them right back into place.

Reconnect your electrical connectors. Remember that these two here have to be snapped back into their spots on the door before we can reconnect the mirror sides. Reinstall the door latch cable into the opening at the back of the handle. Pull the cable out, and then set the retainer back in. Lift your door panel up over the lock rod here. Once the panel's lined back up, snap all the retainers back into place. Once the retainers are all clipped back in, you can reinstall your three T30 Torx screws. Reinstall the plastic covers. These ones have tabs on the bottom that need to be set in first, and then you roll the clips at the top over until they snap. The one behind the door latch simply snaps straight into place. Slide the lock cover over as far as it'll go. Snap the latch back in.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.