Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
without Aluminum Steering Knuckles
with Cast Iron Lower Control Arms
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Upper Control Arm 2000-06 Chevy Suburban 1500
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Created on:
Tools used
10mm Socket
18mm Wrench
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
22mm Socket
Grease Gun
Hammer
Jack Stands
Marker / Writing Utensil
Ratchet
Torque Wrench
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the 22mm caps on the hubcap with the vehicle on the ground
Pull the hubcap free
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Upper Control Arm
Mark the tab on the adjustment piece with a marker to mark the alignment
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the brake line and move the brackets
Remove the ball joint nut with an 18mm wrench
Hit the wheel knuckle and control arm to break them free
Remove the 21mm nuts from the upper control arm bracket
Jack up the wheel underneath the wheel knuckle
Remove the upper control arm nut
Remove the bolts and upper control arm bracket
Place a nut back on and use an air hammer to knock the bolt out if it won't budge
Move the control arm up and down while pulling out
3. Installing the Upper Control Arm
Put the upper control arm into place and push the 21mm bolts in to hold it
Put the brackets on either side and realign them up
Angle the control arm down into the wheel knuckle
Replace the 18mm ball joint nut
Replace the 21mm nuts from the upper control arm bracket
Replace and tighten the two 10mm bolts
Put a grease gun into place on the end of the control arm and fill it up
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the hubcap and tighten the caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side has the same procedure. The items you'll need are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, a 10mm, 21mm, and 22mm socket and ratchet, 18mm and 21mm wrench, a marker, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, a grease gun, a hammer, and an air hammer depending on the condition of your vehicle. After completing this procedure you will need to get a professional alignment done.
Start out by removing the hubcap. You want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you'll want to do it while the vehicle is on the ground. Loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. On these brackets, you'll see a tab coming through from the upper control arm. Mark where that tab is. Remove these two 10mm bolts. Next, remove this 18mm nut, and you can see Mike uses an 18mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage to break it free and then removes it the rest of the way with the 18mm wrench. Hit the wheel knuckle and control arm to break them free. Then remove the 21mm nuts on either side.
Jack up your wheel, and you want to do this underneath the wheel knuckle. Remove the upper control arm nut and then remove these bolts and the bracket that's on them. Our first one pulled out no problem, this one's a bit more difficult. We tried using a hammer, that doesn't work. We tried using a wrench to help break it free, but it's in there really good. If you have this same problem, we put a nut back on it and use an air hammer to knock it out. Now that those bolts are out, you want to remove the control arm up and down while pulling out and it'll pull free.
Take your new upper control arm and push it back into place. Then push the bolts in to hold it into place. You want to make sure that you have those brackets on either side and that they're lined up. Now, angle the control arm down into the wheel knuckle. Once it's pressed down into place replace that 18mm nut. We'll fast forward as Mike tightens all of those up. Replace and tighten up those two 10mm bolts. Using a grease gun put it into place on the end of your control arm and fill it up. Put the wheel back into place and then replace each wheel lug nut and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Bearing Grease
Hammer
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Ratchet
Needle nose pliers
Grease Gun
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pry off the center cap by hand
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
Make note of this measurement
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Remove the 18mm nut from the outer tie rod end
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to loosen the outer tie rod
Pull the outer tie rod out of the steering knuckle
Hold the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Twist off the outer tie rod by hand
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Attach the grease fitting to the new outer tie rod
Tighten the grease fitting with a 7mm socket and ratchet
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Fasten the 18mm castle nut onto the outer tie rod
Push the cotter pin through the castle nut
Twist the cotter pin into place with needle nose pliers
Fill the tie rod with grease, using a grease gun
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
This should be the same as the measurement noted in Step 2
Tighten the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2001 to 2006. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; 7mm, 13mm, 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet; flat-blade screwdriver; adjustable wrench; tape measure; pliers; hammer; and a grease gun.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then, you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's in the air.
Now you want to measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the edge of your outer tie rod and just remember that measurement. Now, using your adjustable wrench, loosen up this nut right here, and then you want to remove this 18mm nut down here. Now just hit on your knuckle with a hammer and this is going to break up that outer tie rod and make it easier to pull out. Now just hold this nut with the adjustable wrench, pull the outer tie rod off and just twist it until it comes free. We'll fast forward as Don does this. You want to make sure that the inner tie rod doesn't spin while you're removing the outer tie rod.
Now, put the grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and just tighten that 7mm grease fitting up. Then twist the outer tie rod back onto your inner tie rod and push it down into place. Now, replace the castle nut and just tighten that up. Then push the cotter pin through and, using your pliers, just bend the ends of it. Now, using your grease gun, fill the tie rod with grease. Measure, and you should get about the same distance. That's a good preliminary alignment. You should have your car aligned after this. Tighten up the lock nut to hold it in place.
Now replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Side Cutters
Torque Wrench
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Rust Penetrant
13/16 Inch Wrench
Pry Bar
Sledge Hammer
18mm Socket
Cotter Pin
7/8 Inch Wrench
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
You wanna keep in mind when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna wanna go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear.
Take this center cap off. We'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here, slide it off. Get the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off.
Loosen up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 7/8 wrench. And just take some rust penetrant, this thing's a little bit rusty. So let that soak a little bit. Now take a 18-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. And take a hammer and just hit the bottom of the tie rod to release it from the knuckle. Just like that. Now I'm gonna take off the tie rod. Just count how many turns you have. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 21, 22. And write that number down. And take the outer tie rod, one, two. And then count the turns that you counted before, 3, 21, 22. Take the jam nut off. I mean, the castle nut off. And slide it in the knuckle. Slide the stud part into the knuckle. Put the nut on. Just gonna use a pry bar. Pry down on the outer tie rod end to prevent the stud from spinning. And just snug this up a little bit. It's the 18-millimeter socket. And torque this to 37-foot-pounds. And if the hole doesn't line up for the cotter pin, just tighten the castle nut until it lines up. Little more. Should be good. Put the cotter pin through. And take my cutters and just bend this over. And just trim the excess. Tighten up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 13/16 wrench. And if you have the ability to torque it, torque it to 36-foot-pounds.
Put the wheel on. And the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double-check. And put the center cap on.
Tools used
24mm Socket
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Trim Tool Set
Pocket Screwdriver
Locking Pliers
Pole Jack
Brake Caliper Hanger
Wheel Chocks
Cotter Pin
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
Needle nose pliers
Wire Cutters
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Brake Parts Cleaner
Safety Glasses
Pliers
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Gloves
Copper Anti-Seize
8mm Socket
Wire Brush
22mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
Trim Tool Set
Safety Glasses
21mm wrench
Ratchet Strap
Gloves
13/16 Inch Wrench
Wheel Chocks
10mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
So before you do this job, you wanna keep in mind that after you're done, you're gonna have to go to an alignment shop and have the vehicle aligned so you don't burn out your tires and have premature tire wear. Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off.
Now, I wanna get this wheel speed sensor wire out of the way. I'm gonna use a trim tool to remove the hold downs, this one right there and right here. And then disconnect the connector up top. I just wanna move it out of the way. Now, I'm gonna remove this bracket for the brake hose. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to take this bolt out. Oh. And sometimes they'll break. That's okay. Just set it aside.
Now, I'm gonna loosen up this nut. I'm not gonna completely take it off. I just wanna loosen it using an 18-millimeter wrench. All right. So I'll leave a couple of threads on there. That's good. Now, I'm gonna break the ball joint free from the knuckle. I'm gonna use a pickle fork. You could try tapping the knuckle, but you wanna be careful. You don't wanna break it. Just watch out for the brake hose. Make sure you're not hitting the brake hose on the other side. There we go.
Now, I'm gonna support the lower control arm with a jack stand. I wanna take the load off the upper control arm. Just lower it onto that. You could always use a floor jack. All right. Now, I'm gonna take a pry bar and just pry down on the control arm and then I can take the nut off of the ball joint. And if the stud starts spinning, just pry down on the pry bar a little bit more and then take that nut off.
You can slide the knuckle out. I could leave it right there for now. I'm gonna take these bolts out next. So that you don't break the axle, you wanna make sure that you keep the knuckle pulled in towards the vehicle so it doesn't pull out too far. So you can always use a strap like this and just tie this down so it doesn't fall out. Right now, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt here and either a 13/16 or a 20-millimeter wrench on this side. Loosen the nut up. I might need a breaker bar. Yep.
Or you can use a 21-millimeter socket as well. Break it free. Loosen up the nut. And then take that nut off. You can take this cam off. This is like a washer that's adjustable. You can use some type of pry tool. And just slide that out. I'm gonna use an air hammer with a hammerhead and just push this bolt out. To get this bolt out, if this bracket is in your way, you can just tip up the control arm. Use a 13-millimeter socket to take this bolt out. Just slide the bracket out of your way. Just be careful not to bend the brake line. Now, just take a punch and a hammer and just tap it out the rest of the way. And you can do the same on the other side. And when you're taking that other side out, you don't have to take the shock out. You just have to rotate the cam so that it goes behind the shock.
Now, I'll just grab the upper control arm, and work it back and forth, then you can slide it up. And take the new arm. Just slide it in position and then take the bolts with the inside cam. There we go. All right. So on the outside of these cams, these have these little nylon or plastic spacers right here. That's going to make it so the alignment's close to where it should be. It's not gonna be exact. You still need to get an alignment done after you're done. So when you put these on and you put that tab through that hole, if you still have these on the vehicle, then it's gonna be close. That'll get you somewhat close to where it should be. Install the nuts. There we go.
All right. So when I go to torque these 2 bolts down, what I wanna use is my 13-millimeter, 13/16 wrench. And I want this upper control arm to be as close to ride height as possible. Ideally, you put this all back together and put the weight of the vehicle on it, and then retorque that. But that's not that easy to get to. So try to get the upper control arm as close to ride height as possible. Sometimes you take a 12-millimeter socket, just stick it under here, and that's pretty close.
And then you wanna torque this to 140 foot pounds, both this one and the other one. And once those are all torqued, you can take the socket out. Now, I can take this strap out of the way, and take the brake hose, line this back up. Put the bolt in and snug it up. Now, I'll get the ball joint lined up. You might have to use a pry bar. Get the nut started. Now, I'm gonna pry down on the control arm and then tighten that nut. Use a 19-millimeter ratchet wrench. Then if you have the ability to torque this nut, you're gonna wanna torque that to 37 foot pounds or do the best you can.
That's good. Now, I'll take this bracket for the brake hose and take a bolt. Put the bolt back in and snug it up. Take the ABS wire or the wheel speed sensor harness, and reposition this. And plug the connector back in. That's good. All right. Now you can take the grease fitting and put that in the ball joint. Get that started. And use a 7-millimeter wrench and just snug it up and give it a couple pumps. You can watch the boot of the ball joint, and then once you see it move, then it should be good enough. That's good. Now, I'm gonna raise the vehicle and reinstall the wheel. And put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again and double-check.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Pickle Fork
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
22mm Wrench
Straight Cutters
Floor Jack
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Pry Bar
Air Compressor
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Take the center cap off, we'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here. Slide it off. The lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off. You need some pliers on the top of the link. Right here. Just watch out for the brake hose. And then underneath, I'm going to use a 14-millimeter socket. There we go. Cut the top off. And slide the bolt straight through like that. Can use a large pry bar. Just pry up. Just take this piece out. Just be careful, don't pry on the steering. I was prying through the frame in the back there. All right. The new link, I'm just going to take this top piece off, set it aside, and you're going to need to take these pieces off as well. And slide this lower part through and then put the bushing, the washer in the same...pretty much the same how it came out. Then up top. Put the bushing, and the washer, and the nut.
Use a 14-millimeter wrench on the nut and a 14-millimeter socket on the bottom. Tighten this up. Then we're going to torque this nut to 89-inch-pounds. That's good. Just make sure the top of this bolt is not rubbing on the brake line. And if it is, then you could always trim the top of the bolt or you can always invert it and have the bolt going straight down.
And put the wheel back on and the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And put the center cap on.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
7/8 Inch Wrench
Pickle Fork
Side Cutters
22mm Wrench
Cotter Pin
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off.
I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. Gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tir rod or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. So I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down and when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.
And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count. One, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24. And line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut. Get that started. Now what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a prybar. Just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod. Use an 18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37 foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the stud...where the hole is for the castle nut and if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through. Should slide through this way. And take some side cutters and just bend it. Just tap it out of the way. And then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut. And tighten that to 50 foot-pounds.
Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. Now we're gonna tighten these lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check.
Tools used
24mm Socket
Air Chisel
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Ball Joint Press
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Rubber Mallet
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Snap Ring Pliers
Socket Driver
23mm Wrench
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
Floor Jack
Swivel
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Socket Driver
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Pry Bar
Air Compressor
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Take the center cap off, we'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here. Slide it off. The lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off. You need some pliers on the top of the link. Right here. Just watch out for the brake hose. And then underneath, I'm going to use a 14-millimeter socket. There we go. Cut the top off. And slide the bolt straight through like that. Can use a large pry bar. Just pry up. Just take this piece out. Just be careful, don't pry on the steering. I was prying through the frame in the back there. All right. The new link, I'm just going to take this top piece off, set it aside, and you're going to need to take these pieces off as well. And slide this lower part through and then put the bushing, the washer in the same...pretty much the same how it came out. Then up top. Put the bushing, and the washer, and the nut.
Use a 14-millimeter wrench on the nut and a 14-millimeter socket on the bottom. Tighten this up. Then we're going to torque this nut to 89-inch-pounds. That's good. Just make sure the top of this bolt is not rubbing on the brake line. And if it is, then you could always trim the top of the bolt or you can always invert it and have the bolt going straight down.
And put the wheel back on and the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And put the center cap on.
Tools used
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
Trim Tool Set
Pocket Screwdriver
21mm Socket
Pickle Fork
21mm wrench
Rubber Mallet
Flat Blade Screwdriver
10mm Socket
22mm Socket
Take the center cap off. Use a straight-blade screwdriver. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Pull the wheel off. These bolts are pretty rusty so I'm just going to use some rust penetrant and soak those before I start. Before we take this nut off, we just want to mark this cam right here. This is for the alignment. When you go to put this back together, you want to put this in the same location so at least it's close. You're still going to need to get an alignment done afterwards, but this will get it a little bit closer. I want to get this ABS wire out of the way, our wheel speed sensor wire. Disconnect the connector up here. Just push up on that tab, slide it out and use a trim tool. Just pull up on that retainer. You can do the same over here, and right here. Sometimes these ones break, just be careful. All right. So this piece is going to break so I'm just going to disconnect it right from the arm itself. And disconnect this right here. Sometimes you can use a screwdriver and just pop that out, or a needle-nose pliers also works. You just squeeze those together. I'm just going to put some rust penetrant on this bolt right here. Let that soak a little bit. We want to take that off next. Just remove this bracket. Use a 10-millimeter socket. Remove this bolt. It's probably going to break. Yup, it broke. Well, hopefully yours doesn't break. And slide that off.
All right. Now, we're going to take this nut off using an 18-millimeter wrench. Now I'm going to leave this nut on just a couple of threads, and then we're going to break this upper ball joint free from the knuckle. I'm going to use a pickle fork to break this free. Just slide it in, in between the ball joint and the knuckle and just give it a hit. There we go. Take the pickle fork out and just push down the upper control arm a little bit. You might need a pry bar. And take the nut off and you could slide it out. And just make sure that there's not too much tension on the brake line, brake hose. I'm going to take a 21-millimeter wrench, 21-millimeter socket. Now this is old and rusty so I just had to heat up that nut to break it loose. Normally you wouldn't have to do that. And loosen it up. That nut's pretty hot right now so I'm just going to let that cool down before I take that off. Take that nut off and see if you can pry this cam off. This is just the alignment cam. Just use a pry bar and a hammer. And just pry that off. All right. This cam bolt is stuck in there pretty good so I'm just going to use some more rust penetrant, soak it down for a while.
Here we go. All right. Get that out and do the same for the other side. All right. I'm just going to take this bracket out of the way. Just use a 13-millimeter socket and you can just slide it out of the way. Don't bend it too much. Here we go. And just use a pry bar and you can pry the arm out. And take the new control arm and just line it up. You can take a rubber mallet, or a dead-blow hammer to tap it in if you need to. And get the bolt started. And take this cam and the nut. Get the nut started. Now we tighten this up. Now we want to align that mark up. What you do is take your 21-millimeter wrench and just move the bolt on this side until that lines up. And you can snug that down. And we'll do the same for the other side. All right. Now, we're going to torque this nut to 140-foot-pounds. Do the same on the front one. Take this brake hose bracket and install that. Put the bolt back in and tighten that up. Get the nut off. Put that aside. Get this lined up with the upper knuckle. And I'll use a pry bar, just pry this down. Take the nut and get the nut started.
Now, I'm going to use a 19-millimeter ratchet wrench, while I'm using the pry bar to pry it down on the ball joint. Tighten this up. All right. Now, if you have the ability, just torque this with a torque wrench, you can torque this to 37-foot-pounds. Do the best you can. And if the stud starts spinning, you can use an allen key, that's a six-millimeter hex key. But if you use the pry bar and you just pry it down, you should be able to get that without having the stud spinning. Take this brake hose bracket and line that up. Put the nut on or the bolt in and snug it up. And take the wheel speed sensor wire and reconnect that. And then we have this holder or clip. Install that. Lock that in place. Reinstall this clip and connect the connector. And push the retainer. I'm just going to find the hole where it goes. There it is. And lock that in position. And take this fitting. Install that. Snug it up with a seven-millimeter wrench.
And take a grease gun and give it a couple pumps of grease. What you can do is look at the boot as you're greasing it, once you see the boot start to move, that's good enough. And put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in any star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check. Install the center cap.
Tools used
24mm Socket
Hammer
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Trim Tool Set
Pocket Screwdriver
Locking Pliers
Pole Jack
Brake Caliper Hanger
Wheel Chocks
Cotter Pin
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Swivel
Needle nose pliers
Wire Cutters
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
19mm Wrench
18mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Brake Parts Cleaner
Safety Glasses
Pliers
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Gloves
Copper Anti-Seize
8mm Socket
Wire Brush
22mm Socket
Tools used
Reciprocating Saw
Hammer
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Remove the hub cap by loosening the lug nuts
Remove the lug nuts and tire
2. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Using locking pliers to clip onto the top of the stabilizer link
Then remove 14mm bolt from bottom of the stabilizer link
Remove the stabilizer link with a hammer or reciprocating saw
3. Replacing the Stabilizer Link
Put the stabilizer piece back into place
Use four washers, four grommets, and a tube
Use a jack stand to help push it through till it appears through the top
Tighten the 14mm bolt on the stabilizer link
4. Replacing the Wheel
Put the tire in place
Replace and tighten each lug nut
Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 ft/lbs
Torque the center hub nut to 160 ft/lbs
Replace the hub cap and tighten the lug nut caps
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a sway bar link on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 and 2006. We show you on the passenger's side, but on the driver's side it's the same procedure. The items you need for this include a new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, a 14mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, locking pliers, a hammer, and a reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle.
Remove your hubcap by loosening up these lug nut caps and pulling the hub cap. Now, you want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you want to do this while the vehicle is on the ground. You can loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and pull the wheel out. Using locking pliers, clip on to the top of your stabilizer link, and then remove this 14mm bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this.
Now, you want to just hammer the link through. If the link doesn't move, you may have to use a reciprocating saw and cut it. Up top is the old part; below is the new part from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole, then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube; then, before going through the next hole, another washer and grommet; then, on the top another grommet and another washer, then the nut.
Here, we just put the jack underneath the link. That's just to push it up through and compress the washers a little bit so that you can get the nut on the other end. Once I get another nut on, you'll see I just release the jack. You want to obviously be supporting the vehicle with jack stands, and then use your jack to push the bolt of the link up through. Then, you want to tighten up the sway bar link, and you basically want to tighten it up until the rubber bushings are compressed enough so that they're the same diameter as the washers.
Put the wheel back in place, then replace each of your lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap, and just tighten up those lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
35mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Tie Rod Fork
Jack Stands
Grease Gun
Rubber Mallet
Tie Rod Puller
7mm Socket
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts.
Raise and secure the vehicle.
Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the tie rod assembly
Remove the tie rod bolt.
Use a pickle fork and hammer to separate it.
Use an adjustable wrench and a fitted wrench to remove the tie rod assembly.
3. Install the new tie rod assembly
Adjust your new tie rod assembly to match the old one for a preliminary alignment.
Mount the new tie rod assembly and tighten it in with a wrench.
Tighten the nut on the tie rod stud to 65 ft lbs.
Install the cotter pin.
Use a 7 mm wrench to install the grease fitting
With a grease gun, grease the inner and outer joints.
4. Put the wheel back on
Preliminarily tighten the lug nuts.
Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 120 ft lbs using a star pattern.
Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-something years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video I'm going to show you inner and outer tie rod replacement. This truck actually just needed the inner, but if you're replacing the inner, you might as well replace the outer as well. These tie rods fit this whole generation of GM trucks and SUV's - trucks from 98 - 06 and SUV's from 99 - 07. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a 22 mm lug wrench or socket and ratchet. You'll need either a 35 mm wrench or a 12 inch adjustable wrench that can go to 35 mm and then you'll need a second adjustable wrench as well, a tie rod removal tool, a grease gun, torque wrench, and pliers. The clunking noise was the inner tie rod. You can see here, when I shake the tire back and forth you'll see the inner tie rod move but that steering arm inside doesn't move, so you know there's play in there and it needs to be replaced.
Start out by raising and securing the vehicle on a jack stand and then remove your cap and wheel. We're going to remove this bolt. We've got a ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. The bolt should come off pretty easily. Take the bolts off most of the way. I'm planning on replacing the outer tie rod as well, so I'm going to use a pickle fork to separate it. The best way to go about this is to get the wrench on it from underneath and push. That should break her free. I'm just going to speed up as I pull that out. You want to make sure that your outer tie rod spins with the wrench so the whole assembly spins and you don't shorten or lengthen the tie rod -- the inner and outer tie rod assembly.
There's your whole assembly out. If you can see here, I've got my old assembly, inner tie rod and outer tie rod, and I want to measure right from the edge of this surface here right to the end. I'm taking my new inner tie rod and outer tie rod and I put them together, just to compare. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. We'll put this nut a little closer. We can put it together now. It will be a good preliminary alignment until you can get your vehicle to a shop where you can get a real alignment.
I'm just leaving my nut right there and spinning my outer tie rod off. The nut marks the place where your tie rod was and then taking off that outer tie rod just makes it easier to get the inner one on. That allows me put my inner tie rod on. Speed it up here as I use the wrench to tighten the tie rod up. Then I can put my outer tie rod right back on and go right up to the nut. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I put that outer tie rod back on the inner tie rod. Now I'm just taking the nut or just getting the outer tie rod in place. Take the nut off the new tie rod, and I'm just going to get some of the debris off the steering knuckle there, and then you can push on the stud on the tie rod and get it lined up with the steering knuckle, and then push it up and in, and start your nut back on.
We'll tighten this up to 65 foot-pounds. Pull a little tighter here and we can get this cotter pin through. We'll fast-forward here as we install the cotter pin and bend the end over and then use a 7 mm wrench and install our grease fitting. We'll take a wrench screw up here. The other one holds the outer tie rod and just tighten up the block nut. Now you want to use a grease gun and grease both the joint for the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod.
Use some more fast-forward here. As you put the wheel and tire back on, start all the lug nuts one by one by hand first, then use your wrench to preliminary tighten them, then you can lower the vehicle back down on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm using a crossing pattern and then I do it one more time, go around all eight and make sure they're tight. Then you can put your center cap back on and you should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
14mm Wrench
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
Pry Bar
Pliers
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel, then I remove the wheel. So I'm going to use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there, and then underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket and just take the link out. A long bolt goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar, take the link out, all right. So we'll just take the new link apart, and just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first.
And then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer and the bushing. Align this up and slide the bushing and the washer. Pry down on the bar. And then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nuts started. All right, that's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut and a 14-millimeter socket and tighten this down. And then you want to torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Now, put the tire back and lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double Check.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
Grease Gun
7/8 Inch Wrench
Pickle Fork
Side Cutters
8mm Socket
22mm Wrench
Drill
Cotter Pin
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. And use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning, and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tie rod, or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down. And when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.
Now I'm gonna take off the inner tie rod end. I'm gonna use a large adjustable wrench because I don't have a wrench that's big enough to fit this. Slide this over and loosen it up. And eventually we'll get that off. Take the inner tie rod end and get this started. Now we're gonna tighten this up with the adjustable wrench. If you have the ability to torque this, you wanna torque this to 74-foot-pounds. Just do the best you can. That's good. Then you wanna take a grease gun and hook it up to this grease fitting and give it a couple pumps. You can do it until you start seeing the boot move a little bit, then you know there's plenty of grease in there. And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24 and line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut, get that started. Now, what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a pry bar, just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod, use an18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37-foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the hole is for the castle nut. And if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through, actually we'll slide it through this way and take some side cutters and just bend it. Tap it out of the way, and then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut and tighten that to 50-foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on and the lug nuts. I'm gonna take these lug nuts down to 140-foot-pounds, and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again. Double-check.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Socket Extensions
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
7/8 Inch Wrench
Socket Driver
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
You want to keep in mind when you're doing this job after you're done, you're going to want to go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear. Take the center cap off. I'll just use a straight blade screwdriver, just get behind here, slide it off. Take the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Gonna take the wheel off. [inaudible 00:00:34] off this jam nut. I'm going to use a 7/8 wrench. And just take some rust penetrant, this thing is a little bit rusty so let that soak a little bit. Gonna take a 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And take a hammer and just hit the bottom of the tie rod to release it from the knuckle. Just like that.
Now when I take off the tie rod, just count how many turns you have. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7...21, 22 and write that number down. Now I'm going to take a large adjustable wrench and loosen up the inner tie rod end. And loosen this up and just slide it off. Take a little thread locker, put it on the threads before you put the new one on and line it up. And then use my adjustable wrench to tighten this up. If you have the ability to use a torque wrench and torque this, you want to torque this to 74 foot-pounds. And take the outer tie rod, one, two, and then count the turns that you counted before. Three...21, 22. Take the jam nut not off...I mean the castle nut off and slide it in the knuckle. Slide the stud part into the knuckle. Put the nut on. Just gonna use a pry bar, pry down on the outer tie rod in to prevent the stud from spinning, and just snug this up a little bit. Use the 18-millimeter socket. And torque this to 37 foot-pounds. And if the hole doesn't line up for the cotter pin, just tighten the castle nut until it lines up. Little more. Should be good. Put the cotter pin through. And take my cutters and just bend this over then just trim the excess.
Tighten up this jam nut. I'm going to use a 13/16 wrench, and if you have the ability to torque it, torque it to 36 foot-pounds. There's a grease fitting right here. Just take a grease gun and give it a couple pumps. And I really give it a couple of pumps until I see the boot move a little bit. And that's good. Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140 foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And put the center cap on.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Pliers
22mm Socket
Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You wanna have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel. Now that we have a nice clear view of our tire rods, I'm gonna spray down this area right here. This is the adjustment area. Use a little bit of penetrant. That's gonna help you along. Using some nice long pliers, I'm gonna grab right onto this and I'm gonna turn it clockwise. That'll break free this jam nut. Okay, that broke free. Let's remove the nut that holds the outer tie rod end to the knuckle.
Now we're gonna hit right here on the knuckle to break our outer tie rod end free from the knuckle. Turn your outer tie rod end counterclockwise and count the amount of times it turns around as you remove it. One, two, three and so on. Okay. Write down that corresponding number so you can remember. We have our outer tie rod end. Let's go ahead and put that on. And we're gonna count it in the same amount of threads that we counted the original one off. That was one, two, three and so on. Okay. Just bring this so it's close. Get that nut off of there. I'm gonna put this on there. Let's bottom that out. Now we're gonna torque this nut to 48 foot-pounds. All right. So now that we have that torqued, we need to pay special attention to where the slot on the castle nut lines up with the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Okay, so that looks pretty good. Let's try it.
That slides right through. Spin it over. The cotter pin's gonna ensure that there's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's gonna be time to tighten up your jam nut. To tighten this we're gonna turn it counter clockwise. When you torque it, you would wanna torque it to 37 foot-pounds if you have the ability. Let's see here. Okay. Just make sure that it's nice and snug. By the time you're finished, make sure your outer tie rod end is nice and parallel to the ground or at least as parallel as it can be. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay. Now with the wheel barely on the ground so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
7/8 Inch Wrench
Pickle Fork
Side Cutters
22mm Wrench
Cotter Pin
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
22mm Socket
Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off.
I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. Gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tir rod or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. So I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down and when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.
And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count. One, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24. And line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut. Get that started. Now what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a prybar. Just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod. Use an 18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37 foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the stud...where the hole is for the castle nut and if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through. Should slide through this way. And take some side cutters and just bend it. Just tap it out of the way. And then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut. And tighten that to 50 foot-pounds.
Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. Now we're gonna tighten these lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Bearing Grease
Hammer
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Ratchet
Needle nose pliers
Grease Gun
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pry off the center cap by hand
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
Make note of this measurement
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Remove the 18mm nut from the outer tie rod end
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to loosen the outer tie rod
Pull the outer tie rod out of the steering knuckle
Hold the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Twist off the outer tie rod by hand
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Attach the grease fitting to the new outer tie rod
Tighten the grease fitting with a 7mm socket and ratchet
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Fasten the 18mm castle nut onto the outer tie rod
Push the cotter pin through the castle nut
Twist the cotter pin into place with needle nose pliers
Fill the tie rod with grease, using a grease gun
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
This should be the same as the measurement noted in Step 2
Tighten the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2001 to 2006. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; 7mm, 13mm, 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet; flat-blade screwdriver; adjustable wrench; tape measure; pliers; hammer; and a grease gun.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then, you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's in the air.
Now you want to measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the edge of your outer tie rod and just remember that measurement. Now, using your adjustable wrench, loosen up this nut right here, and then you want to remove this 18mm nut down here. Now just hit on your knuckle with a hammer and this is going to break up that outer tie rod and make it easier to pull out. Now just hold this nut with the adjustable wrench, pull the outer tie rod off and just twist it until it comes free. We'll fast forward as Don does this. You want to make sure that the inner tie rod doesn't spin while you're removing the outer tie rod.
Now, put the grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and just tighten that 7mm grease fitting up. Then twist the outer tie rod back onto your inner tie rod and push it down into place. Now, replace the castle nut and just tighten that up. Then push the cotter pin through and, using your pliers, just bend the ends of it. Now, using your grease gun, fill the tie rod with grease. Measure, and you should get about the same distance. That's a good preliminary alignment. You should have your car aligned after this. Tighten up the lock nut to hold it in place.
Now replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
35mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Tie Rod Fork
Jack Stands
Grease Gun
Rubber Mallet
Tie Rod Puller
7mm Socket
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts.
Raise and secure the vehicle.
Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the tie rod assembly
Remove the tie rod bolt.
Use a pickle fork and hammer to separate it.
Use an adjustable wrench and a fitted wrench to remove the tie rod assembly.
3. Install the new tie rod assembly
Adjust your new tie rod assembly to match the old one for a preliminary alignment.
Mount the new tie rod assembly and tighten it in with a wrench.
Tighten the nut on the tie rod stud to 65 ft lbs.
Install the cotter pin.
Use a 7 mm wrench to install the grease fitting
With a grease gun, grease the inner and outer joints.
4. Put the wheel back on
Preliminarily tighten the lug nuts.
Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 120 ft lbs using a star pattern.
Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-something years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video I'm going to show you inner and outer tie rod replacement. This truck actually just needed the inner, but if you're replacing the inner, you might as well replace the outer as well. These tie rods fit this whole generation of GM trucks and SUV's - trucks from 98 - 06 and SUV's from 99 - 07. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a 22 mm lug wrench or socket and ratchet. You'll need either a 35 mm wrench or a 12 inch adjustable wrench that can go to 35 mm and then you'll need a second adjustable wrench as well, a tie rod removal tool, a grease gun, torque wrench, and pliers. The clunking noise was the inner tie rod. You can see here, when I shake the tire back and forth you'll see the inner tie rod move but that steering arm inside doesn't move, so you know there's play in there and it needs to be replaced.
Start out by raising and securing the vehicle on a jack stand and then remove your cap and wheel. We're going to remove this bolt. We've got a ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. The bolt should come off pretty easily. Take the bolts off most of the way. I'm planning on replacing the outer tie rod as well, so I'm going to use a pickle fork to separate it. The best way to go about this is to get the wrench on it from underneath and push. That should break her free. I'm just going to speed up as I pull that out. You want to make sure that your outer tie rod spins with the wrench so the whole assembly spins and you don't shorten or lengthen the tie rod -- the inner and outer tie rod assembly.
There's your whole assembly out. If you can see here, I've got my old assembly, inner tie rod and outer tie rod, and I want to measure right from the edge of this surface here right to the end. I'm taking my new inner tie rod and outer tie rod and I put them together, just to compare. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. We'll put this nut a little closer. We can put it together now. It will be a good preliminary alignment until you can get your vehicle to a shop where you can get a real alignment.
I'm just leaving my nut right there and spinning my outer tie rod off. The nut marks the place where your tie rod was and then taking off that outer tie rod just makes it easier to get the inner one on. That allows me put my inner tie rod on. Speed it up here as I use the wrench to tighten the tie rod up. Then I can put my outer tie rod right back on and go right up to the nut. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I put that outer tie rod back on the inner tie rod. Now I'm just taking the nut or just getting the outer tie rod in place. Take the nut off the new tie rod, and I'm just going to get some of the debris off the steering knuckle there, and then you can push on the stud on the tie rod and get it lined up with the steering knuckle, and then push it up and in, and start your nut back on.
We'll tighten this up to 65 foot-pounds. Pull a little tighter here and we can get this cotter pin through. We'll fast-forward here as we install the cotter pin and bend the end over and then use a 7 mm wrench and install our grease fitting. We'll take a wrench screw up here. The other one holds the outer tie rod and just tighten up the block nut. Now you want to use a grease gun and grease both the joint for the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod.
Use some more fast-forward here. As you put the wheel and tire back on, start all the lug nuts one by one by hand first, then use your wrench to preliminary tighten them, then you can lower the vehicle back down on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm using a crossing pattern and then I do it one more time, go around all eight and make sure they're tight. Then you can put your center cap back on and you should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
PSA58784
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.77/ 5.090
90 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
76
9
4
0
1
AWESOME-AWESOME-AWESOME
Dan
March 18, 2017
Ya'll must be 40+ years of age. It's nice to know there are still some of us out there that really want to help one another out by providing perfect parts, especially in a kit, and show us how to do it ( Great Videos ). I'm sure it saved me thousands. I don't mine paying for a shop to work on my vehicle, if you can find in honest one, and forget about taking it to a stealership. Thanks for looking out for the guy that likes working on his own vehicles.
I will definitely be getting my parts from ya'll.
P.S. You might want to think about doing kits for old tractors, Kubota, Cat 416, etc. Thanks TEXAS DAN
Good for the money!
V
August 4, 2017
Good product for the money! Everything bolted on with no issues.
The vehicle I put it on is a 2005 Tahoe with 220,XXX miles, so I didn't feel like spending a fortune on it. It would be nice if the kit came with the cam bolts and plates that set the caster and camber. At the very least, these should be suggested as something a person might need, especially in the rusty states.
I wish the fittings were all grease-able, but again, for the money, and where I was putting them, I am satisfied.
Thomas
August 25, 2017
The kit is very nice. I haven't installed it yet. The only problem I have with it is that they don't all have grease fittings. The upper balljoints have grease fittings and the rest of the parts do not . That is why I only have it a 3 star. Chances are I will only use the upper ball joints and the stabilizer links unless I decide to drill and put grease fittings in the other ball joints and tie rods.
Awesome product thanks
U
September 29, 2017
Thank you so much for the product that you sold me. Need some shocks now can you help me pick the right ones
2004 Chevy tahoe
Willliam
February 17, 2018
Parts came quick. Installed with no problems on tahoe with 240,000. Hopefully they will last another 100,00 ?? thank you A1 auto for the fantastic price !!!
R
April 5, 2018
Product seems to be good so far no issues came the next day
Starring and suspension kit
Vincent
April 26, 2018
Everything came in a timely manner, completely satisfied with all the parts no issues what so ever.
Good fit, seems to last!
Dustin
June 14, 2018
Installed two of these now. No issues on the first in 2 years. Second went right on and has done well so far. Hardest part is getting old parts off.
Parts fit great
Emmett
July 22, 2018
My initial satisfaction with these parts is great. I didn't change them myself but the mechanic who did told me they worked great. The price was very reasonable and they shipped and arrived quickly. I have bought parts from 1A before and will continue doing so in the future.
Everything you hope it will be
T
July 26, 2018
I am an idiot...
But with 1aauto.com, I mustered the courage to attempt the unthinkable; perform DIY maintenance on my truck.
Shipping: My parts were ordered on Tuesday at 2:58pm, shipping from Kansas to Alabama, and arrived to me on Friday at regular UPS delivery route timing. Though the box came looking like it had survived an old stage coach ambush by outlaws in the old West, the parts were protected and showed no observable damage. The parts came in individual packages with a sticker on each identifying a part number. Also included was an invoice with the part number and part name for ease of correlation between packaging and parts. This was important to me as I'd never held a tie-rod in my hands before and had no idea whether they were destined for left or right side (or if it even mattered).
Compare to OE: Everything I removed from my truck looked identical to the parts from 1AAuto, with the exception of a few minor differences. The OE nuts were "taller" and had more threads
Great company
J
July 27, 2018
Great buying experience, great products. I would recommend to anyone needing parts
Good parts
Angel
July 28, 2018
Good product quality, I am very satisfied with the purchase
Worked great
Clyde
August 23, 2018
I love the service and the parts worked great. Love 1a auto
Just as they said
Jeff
September 4, 2018
Showed up and fit perfect, I'm very happy with the quality.
Fantastic sevice
D
September 22, 2018
Highly recommended for the do it yourselfers out there..parts were spot on..website is easy to use and just about foolproof..shipping was fast..how to videos are priceless.. I will definitely use again! Thanks 1A auto
Happy with purchase.
M
October 3, 2018
Order shipped very quickly, and I received everything I ordered. Quality seems pretty good for not being name brand. Only issue with the whole job was getting the old OEM stuff off. Would buy again.
Martins Elite Cycles
JASON
November 1, 2018
Really was impressed cut my cost of the parts to 1/3 and all the parts fit great and were very good quality. Pleasure to do business with and very quick shipping. Very confident in doing future business.
Thank you
Steering & Suspension Kit
Pedro
November 9, 2018
Everything came the day expected., everything looks good i cant wait to install it tomorrow only reason why i give 4 star is because my package was open and the box was damage im glad nothing broke but everything else is perfect.
Everything you need in one kit.
B
December 20, 2018
Great deal. Installed flawlessly on my 03 Tahoe. It was so nice to get a kit that included everything so I didn't have to get a piece here and there and hope they all work. And with A1 the price plus ship was a great deal. Thank you.
Suspension Stability
T
December 22, 2018
The parts are doing a great job. I travel on mostly rural roads and the vehicle is responding exactly the way I wanted. The only thing I can think of is that there might have been the top bolts to replace old ones to be part of the package for the control arms. I needed to track some down to finish the job. 2 old bolts were sized up. The video was a excellent tool. My Suburban was at 250,000 miles when replaced.
Excellent
Ray
December 31, 2018
All parts installed perfectly. I buy all my parts from 1 aauto!
Perfect fit
N
February 18, 2019
Bought for a 2000 tahoe 4wd LT. Fit perfectly. Changed all parts out at home and had alignment done drives like new. Items arrived when stated , will definatley use a1 agin. Also they have a ton of really helpful how to videos on YouTube.
Wow!!
Jonathan
March 6, 2019
Excellent pricing!! Loyal customer, I am for a few years now and going...
As Ordered-Recommend
Tom
March 26, 2019
Con- the lower ball joint and the tie-rod do not have grease Jerks. The upper ball joint does. All parts fit my 2001 Suburban 2wd.
Quality products
James
April 19, 2019
So far these parts seem to be working well only have a few hundred miles on them so time will tell
Exact parts needed
Brandon
June 21, 2019
Easy to look up and order the correct parts for your vehicle. Buy individual pieces or kits. I got the kit to replace front steering and ball joints. Havent had a chance to install yet. Cant wait for the smooth ride once I do
Great Parts/Great Price
T
August 19, 2019
This is a great kit for the price, install was super easy and every thing bolted up perfectly, 10/10 would recommend
2003 chevy suburban 1500 LT 4x4 front suspension.
Brent
January 12, 2020
I installed these parts on my 2003 Chevy suburban that has 210,000 miles. I was quoted $2,000 for the repair with an alignment to let a shop do this. Took a day to replace myself and saved around $1,800. The parts fit perfectly and give the Suburban a better quality ride and better handling.
Shipped fast & exactly what I wanted!
Sean
January 22, 2020
I have yet to install all of the parts but this was exactly what I needed. & cheaper than most of the other places. I had the parts within a few days & came exactly as they described. Thank you
Great Service
Chris
March 30, 2020
Parts came individually wrapped with all necessary items. I know that's the way it should be, however anymore companies dont take care of the customer because of the need we have for the product. Here, there is no worry, parts are affordable, good quality and the customer service is spot on.
Quality parts
M
April 3, 2020
Replaced my front end with this kit and my truck is riding smoother then when I first bought it. Not only do they provide parts but if you arent experienced with mechanic work they have videos to give you guidance, very nice added touch.
L
April 11, 2020
Easy to order parts, cheap and i received my parts fast!! Highly recommend!!
Better buy from 1a auto
billy
April 18, 2020
They have a great price and always get it right. I will always buy from 1a auto
Front end steering & suspension kit
A
April 25, 2020
Part arrived on time. Seem like decent quality. Boyfriend just installed them...too soon review how they work out and long they last.
Great products
Timothy
April 28, 2020
overall satisfied with the quality of the parts and how fast i received them!
Perfect Fit
R
June 19, 2020
Bought this kit for a 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 LS. Fit perfectly... seems as sturdy as I need. Looking forward to see how many miles I get out these parts!
Front end parts
Jerrold
July 27, 2020
All seems to right. Haven't installed in my truck yet. Had to wait on other parts to arrive. Having the 5.3L hybrid in my truck didn't make it easy to find some parts from A1-Auto.
Great service Great part
M
July 31, 2020
I recommend 1aauto because theyre a great team that helps you with any problems. I ordered the wrong part they still sent me the right part and let me keep the one I ordered. Now what company does that and this was in 2016 . Thanks 1aauto
1A Auto is all you need!
S
August 6, 2020
I am a true believer in 1A Auto! The website is very user friendly and shipping/ deliver is always on time. The prices are unbeatable! Thanks and keep it up!
awsome
S
August 7, 2020
Great help more bang for your buck!!!
thanks Al
JAYSON
August 15, 2020
Everything Ive ordered from them has arrived on time in perfect working order condition and fit just as they said it would extremely happy will continue to order from him
Alan
September 8, 2020
Part quality meet spec and easy to install. Shipping also on time.
10pc suspension kit for 2005 Chevy Tahoe
Sofonias
September 14, 2020
Received parts quickly and at a reasonable price than other competitors. Parts are good quality and my truck is riding smooth again. Thanks 1aauto
Pierre
September 24, 2020
My delivery was fast and on time. The parts were right and great quality
Quality parts but amazing shipping!
bradley
October 1, 2020
I ordered my parts on a wed afternoon for a what I wanted to do 3 weeks from that time. I come home from work on Thursday and the parts are already there! Blew me away. I have recommended 1aauto to all of my friends and I recommend them to anyone wanting quality parts fast.
Perfect fit
S
October 2, 2020
Fit perfect. Little different size than the ball joint sockets we had and it sliced the boot in half. Luckily we managed and rigged up one from the other ball joints. Other than that they fit great
Purchased a front end kit
Christopher
October 3, 2020
All the parts that I bought for my front end of my Chevrolet were correct. it was way cheaper than buying them anywhere else or separately. I would suggest anyone that wants to buy stuff to check here first
First time buyer
Luis
October 11, 2020
I'm very satisfied with the parts I order the delivery was on point I will countinue ordering parts in the near future
good
J
October 11, 2020
very good
Misael
November 28, 2020
This suspension kit was the way to go for my application. I would recommend to anyone that need to do there suspension on the GM vehicles that are listed. Very good quality and my truck rides smoother then before. Very satisfied with the quality of parts.
Chevy parts
K
November 29, 2020
Couldnt have been more pleased with the price and quality of these products. Replaced the front end in my 2000 chevy pickup. Rides like a new one! I will definitely be buying more products!!!
1a is A1
Tonya
February 26, 2021
quick delivery and fit perfectly. best online autoparts no need to go anywhere else
GM 2004 steering & suspension kit
Joe
February 27, 2021
I would definitely recommend this product for all DIY mechanics. Product was just as advertised. Everything fit perfect, no issues. Parts were either presealed or came withgrease fittings. Easy to install and matched the old parts. Delivered in a box and packaged with care. Overall great value for this suspension kit. Highly recommend
great service!
H
February 27, 2021
I love using 1Aauto now, they are on time when delivering their products to my door. The prices for the items are very reasonable. I would recommend this site to anyone who needs parts for their autos.
Suspension parts
Gerald
April 28, 2021
Excellent price and great parts has my SUV running very smooth!!
Fits perfectly
Krickett
May 2, 2021
Arrived as expected and an exact fit for my vehicle.
Satisfied customer
Ismael
May 18, 2021
Im very satisfied and happy with my purchase. Everything fit it arrived on time like it was promised. Good quailty. Definitely would recommend to other people. Thank you 1AAuto
Right parts Right price
Roger
May 31, 2021
Installed these over the holiday weekend and everything was an exact fit. Quality parts at a price that made it an easy decision to just get it done!! Bought this truck with 240,000 on it and still had all the original parts on the front suspension. The ride is so much smoother now!!
On Time Delivery Was A Must For This Repair To Happen!
Lydia
June 29, 2021
I was so worried about receiving this expedited shipment in time; so that the selected mechanic could fit us into his busy schedule and get me back on the road. The parts arrived in excellent condition, and at an affordable price. All the mainstream auto parts stores wanted three times the amount for the same parts. I'm never shopping at the Brick and Mordor auto parts stores again! Thank You 1A AUTO!
awesome product
Samuel
June 29, 2021
Everything fit exactly as it should. Did it in my driveway
Dorian
June 29, 2021
Great parts and service
David
August 10, 2021
Everything fit my Tahoe. Parts were good quality. The kit I ordered had all the parts listed. I forgot to let them know I have a 6 suspension lift so I will have to eat the swaybar links and order the correct length. Completely my fault. Parts came on time. Very satisfied!
Sean
September 23, 2021
Everything fit perfectly.
Best of everything
Israel
September 26, 2021
Great parts at great prices and the shipping costs was free you can't beat that.
Steven
September 27, 2021
The parts were delivered quickly and fit like a glove! I'd reccomend 1A to any diy-er.
Ivan
October 17, 2021
Would of came out nice on my truck before I totaled it...service was great and shipping was fast.
Junk
jared
November 26, 2021
Lasted less than a year. Lower ball joint failed on passenger side and upper control arm failed on driver side
Valarie
January 13, 2022
Never installed can I get my money back
Steering and suspension
Darrel
April 8, 2022
Excellent pieces, looks like they will fit perfectly
David
April 21, 2022
Installed. So far so good.
DAnna
April 27, 2022
My mechanic had no problems with them. They fit perfect!
Ryan
May 19, 2022
Everything fits perfectly in my 04 Chevy suburban and it rides like a charm definitely recommend if you're trying to save a little cash
Solid purchase
Rashad
July 3, 2022
Holding up well 1 year later
Pelton
July 6, 2022
worked great for me
Reynaldo
September 30, 2022
Good parts good price
Ball Joints/Suspension
Thomas
October 21, 2022
Perfect fit and best price around! Quick shipping too!
Alan
November 15, 2022
Good quality and good fit.
Exactly as Stated
Chandler
January 25, 2023
Parts fit in perfectly, everything was exactly as stated in the description. Upper control arms did not have zerk fitting to grease the ball joint, but we added the old one and finished the project.
There ok, would of been good if all parts came with grease fittings and also upper Ball joints on both sides kept spinning while I was trying to tighten down the main nut. It'll do for now
Perfect
Frank
April 7, 2023
Excellent product exactly what my Escalade needed for a nice freshen up!
Steve
July 10, 2023
Perfect fit for my suburban
Good fit parts as described.
Matt
October 19, 2023
Good parts. I have an 03 Yukon XL and they fit perfectly. I can't speak to how long they will hold up as I have only put a couple hundred miles on the new parts.
Happy about all the videos
Miguel
November 8, 2023
Good quality parts also incredible price
Genaro
December 3, 2023
Mad my car drive smoother
GREAT
richard
December 28, 2023
FAST DELIVERY AND QUALITY PRODUCTS !
Elmer
January 27, 2024
Everything was great about the parts!!!
Front end like new
ismael
February 28, 2024
Great price easy install front end feels much tighter..
Worth buying the A1 Auto kits
Zach
April 2, 2024
Great kit and everything replaces perfect. My 04 GMC Sierra is driving like an absolute unit again.
No complaints here
Steven
April 3, 2024
Parts match up perfectly. Even the slots on the control arms to attach ABS and brake lines are spot on.
Sway bar links are about an inch longer than the factory links.
No complaints so far, but we will see how they hold up over time.
Customer Q&A
How long does it take to get to my house in Michigan?August 15, 2016
J D M
10
Average shipping time may be 3-5 business days
August 15, 2016
Brian F
10
I live in tennessee and everything has always showed up at my door in 3 days or less.
August 15, 2016
Martin B
10
It should take approx. 3-4 business days but it comes pretty quick!
August 15, 2016
LaDerrius S
10
3 days for me.
August 15, 2016
I C
10
3 days
August 15, 2016
Glenford H
10
Please keep in mind, it depends on your location and which warehouse ships.
August 16, 2016
Brian F
10
Probably about 3 4 days. It was quick.
October 3, 2020
B L
How do u install lower ball joints ?February 10, 2017
Marcus M
10
Remove c clip and either press it out or heat lower control arm and hammer it out. I used heat and a hammer. Worked great
February 10, 2017
I C
10
The lower ball joints must be pressed into the lower control arm with use of a ball joint press. You may rent a kit at any local auto part store, and upon removal of the c-clip the process should be fairly easy to perform.
February 14, 2017
Alex P
Does this fit a 6 lug chevy 4x4?February 16, 2017
Jeremy R
10
It should. I installed on a 6 lug 2001 Tahoe 4x4.
February 16, 2017
Stephanie H
10
It fits my 2001 4x4 GMC Serra, it has6 lug wheels too.
Very satisfied with fit and operation at a terrific price!
February 17, 2017
Steven B
10
Yes installed on 07
February 17, 2017
Mark S
10
Yes it does. I just installed rhis kit in my 02 gmc yukon 4x4.
February 17, 2017
Salvador B
I have a 2001 suburban 1500 LT 4x4. Does every piece of this kit go to my SUV? Thanks!June 12, 2017
Ryan P
10
Yes this kit fit 2001 Chevy 1500 4x4 I used every piece.
June 12, 2017
I C
10
Yes every piece will go one your truck
June 12, 2017
Bryon P
10
Ryan, the simple answer is yes. Although you may encounter some fitment issues because they are universal parts. I found that some modification was necessary to make work correctly.
June 12, 2017
David W
10
Yes, these are meant to fit your Suburban.
June 12, 2017
Alex P
Will they fit a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 z71?October 29, 2017
Joshua Hewett H
10
This kit will fit as long as it is a 4x4!
October 29, 2017
Tim K
Will this fit an 05 silverado 4wd with a 6 inch lift?November 15, 2017
Donovan E
10
Thank you for your question! All of our parts are made to factory spec, so if you have a 6" lift these will not work for you. We do not carry parts to accommodate that kind of lift.
November 15, 2017
Tim K
Is there a kit that comes with polyeurathane bushings?March 17, 2018
K I
10
This kit comes with bushings for the control arms
March 17, 2018
Nathan P
10
We only carry kits with rubber bushings, unfortunately.
March 28, 2018
T I
The upper ball joint started spinning with the stud, whiled tighting the castle nut. What's the problem? Is it the upper ball joint ? Factory promble?March 31, 2018
Juan A
10
Does the top of the ball joint stud have a set screw hole? If so you will have to hold down the stud using this hole with an allen wrench while using an open wrench on the castle nut.
April 1, 2018
T I
Does this kit fit 03 Chevy Tahoe z71 4x4?July 7, 2018
Melvin M
10
Yes, according to the information you supplied, the part you're looking at will be correct for your vehicle. If you have any other questions, please let us know.
July 7, 2018
Peter L
i have a 3 inch suspension lift and my spindles are too short and i pretty much need a new front end will this be it??December 11, 2018
Austin T
10
Mine was stock and it fit.
December 11, 2018
Dan S
10
We do not suggest installing our parts on vehicles with a lift kit.
December 11, 2018
Christa R
Does this kit have everything to do both sides or just one side of the front end?December 13, 2018
Clayton S
10
Both sides.
December 13, 2018
Juan M
10
The kit comes with everything in the picture. Unless you have a chevy like I've never seen I'm not sure where you would put two upper control arms and two lower ball joints on one side .
December 13, 2018
Alan S
10
This kit will include parts for both the driver and passenger side.
December 13, 2018
Jessica D
Will this kit fit my 02 Silverado 2WD 1500? Because the vehicle fit list only has 4x4 vehicles listed.December 21, 2018
Yazan A
10
This kit is only able to fit for four wheel drive for your vehicle.
December 21, 2018
Emma F
Does this kit come with the boots of the inner tie rods. Or is that something I would have to buy separate?March 8, 2019
Dylan O
10
This kit does not come with those boots but we may carry a set that comes with these. Please check back on our website to see if this is something we offer in a kit. If we do not offer this included with a kit, you will need to purchase them separate.
March 8, 2019
Curtis L
Will this kit fit a 01 gmc Yukon 1500 denali xl?June 18, 2019
Matthew S
10
Yes, according to the information you provided, this part will fit your vehicle.
June 18, 2019
Curtis L
Will this fit a 2001 Tahoe 2wheel drive?August 24, 2019
Eduardo M
10
Yes, this kit will be a direct replacement for the 2001 Tahoe, it fits both 2WD and 4WD vehicles. Thank you for the inquiry!
August 25, 2019
Andra M
Ordered the wrong parts how would i go about getting right one?April 25, 2020
J E
10
Hello Herbert! You can visit our website and go to "returns and cancellations" to set up a return. We do not perform exchanges, so you will have to purchase the correct parts if we carry them. This part will not fit your vehicle. We may have a part that is listed to fit.
Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Please be sure to read the part description and fit list to confirm any further fit details.
https://www.1aauto.com/customer-service/returns
April 27, 2020
T I
Will this fit a 2 wheel drive?June 30, 2020
NaToshia D
10
Thanks for your inquiry. This part is specific to vehicles with a particular set of options. We will need more information about your vehicle to confirm the fit.
The information we will need in order to assist you is:
June 30, 2020
Corey M
Will this fit a Z71 4x4 off road package 02 avalanche 1500?July 2, 2020
Shy S
10
Thank you for your inquiry. This kit will be the correct fit for that vehicle. Please let us know if you have any further questions.
July 2, 2020
A C
Will this kit fit an 02 Tahoe z71? Some of the kits Ive looked at says it does not fit the z71 package.October 30, 2020
Brandon A
10
Yes, according to the information you provided, this part will fit your vehicle.
October 30, 2020
Christa R
Will this fit a 2004 Silverado 1500 Z71?November 10, 2020
E R
10
This will fit any 2004 Chevy Silverado 4WD model.
November 10, 2020
T I
Does this fit 2002 4x4 Tahoe lt ?November 13, 2020
David C
10
Yes, according to the information you provided, this part will fit your vehicle.
November 13, 2020
Emma F
Does this kit fit a 4wd 2001 tahoe?May 4, 2021
Alejandro P
10
Yes, according to the information you provided, this part will fit your vehicle.
May 4, 2021
Emma F
Will these fit good on my 200; Tahoe with 6 inch lift?August 9, 2021
Mahealani D
10
These parts are unable to fit for vehicles with a lift.
August 10, 2021
Emma F
2004 chevy silverado 1500 2wd 4.8l single cap extwnded bed will it fit?August 14, 2021
John D
10
Not sure I didnt have a problem with them fitting on my 2006 tahoe it was just a bit cheaper made then I like so I exchanged them I wanted heavy duty
August 16, 2021
T O
10
This part will not fir your 2WD model, it is only listed to fit 4WD applications. As long as you have rack and pinion steering then 1ASFK02409 will be the correct kit for you!
August 16, 2021
T I
Will this fit my 2000 Tahoe 2wd? Same body style as the 2001-2006. Thank you.August 20, 2021
A R
10
Yes, these parts will fit your vehicle.
August 20, 2021
Andra M
10
No
August 20, 2021
Joshua B
Will these fit my 2003 4wd tahoe?August 30, 2021
Evaristo P
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
August 30, 2021
Adam G
Will this fit a 2006 Chevy Silverado V6 4.3 L engine regular cab?September 10, 2021
Sidney M
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle as long as you have a 4 wheel drive vehicle.
September 10, 2021
Emma F
Will this fit my 2003 chevy silverado 1500 4wd 5.3 v8? It also floor shift 4wdOctober 12, 2021
John D
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
October 12, 2021
T I
Will this fit 2006 Yukon Denali?November 30, 2021
Akil R
10
Yes, this kit will fit your vehicle.
November 30, 2021
Andra M
I have a 2000 Chevrolet 4 wheel drive will it fit ?December 31, 2021
John D
10
We would happy to check. Can you please provide the VIN?
January 3, 2022
Andra M
Will it fit my 2000 Chevrolet 1500 4 wheel drive 6 hole lugs?January 3, 2022
Vernon B
10
Yes this kit will fit a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 Wheel Drive.
January 4, 2022
T I
Will this fit my 2000 Chevy 1500 four-wheel drive 6 hole lug pickup?January 4, 2022
John D
10
This kit is listed to fit the 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 4WD.
January 4, 2022
Andra M
Will this fit a 2003 Yukon Denali?January 27, 2022
John D
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
January 28, 2022
T I
I'm planning on doing the work myself. Replacing the front steering and suspension on a 2004 Chevy suburban 1500. How long does the whole process take?February 7, 2022
John D
10
About an hour and a half
As long as you have impact wrench and breaker bar and sockets
February 7, 2022
Jon Y
10
Its not really hard. Getting it all apart was the hardest part. I had to get an air hammer to get out a couple of the bolts. I think it took me a day and a half to complete the whole thing, but I wasnt working on it the whole time. The second side was faster as I had already figured out the problems. Make sure to count how many times the tie rod ends turn and put them on with exactly the same turns. I took it in for an alignment after and they ended up not doing anything because it was within parameters. Good luck!
February 7, 2022
Marion-F M
10
I did this same job it took me about 7 hours with having all the right tools. In my driveway finished up in the dark but it came out great.
February 7, 2022
David G
10
The time will depend on your skill level and the tools you have available. This kit should take at least 3 hours to replace.
February 7, 2022
Emma F
Does theis come with grease inserts?February 21, 2022
Billy T
10
Looks pre greased..
February 21, 2022
Erric T
10
Yes ready for install!
February 22, 2022
Johnny R
10
Yes, these parts will already come pregreased.
February 22, 2022
Emma F
I have 2007 chevy silverado classic crew ls 4.8 2 wheel drive will this kit fit my application rear drum brakes?March 2, 2022
John D
10
This is not the correct part for your vehicle, but we do carry the one you need. The correct part number is: 1ASFK02601.
March 2, 2022
Emma F
Will this fit my 2001 GMC Sierra 2 wheel drive single cab v6 ?April 20, 2022
Alejandro -
10
This part will not fit your vehicle, but we may have a part that is listed to fit.
Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Just be sure to verify all of the information shown in the Vehicle Fit tab before ordering.
April 20, 2022
T I
10
2000 GMC Sierra SLE 2wd 4.8 engine
May 6, 2022
Christopher P
Will this fit a 2000 GMC sierra 2wd 4.8 ?May 6, 2022
C H
10
No, this kit will not fit your vehicle.
May 6, 2022
Andra M
I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 2 Wheel Dr. will all the suspension kit bit on it because I noticed it says four-wheel-drive just wanting to know before I purchase?May 21, 2022
Mark B
10
This part will not fit your vehicle, but we may have a part that is listed to fit.
Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Just be sure to verify all of the information shown in the Vehicle Fit tab before ordering.
May 21, 2022
Ricale A
10
2005 gmc Yukon xl 1500 4x4
June 3, 2022
Stan S
Will this fit a 2005 gmc yukon xl 1500 4x4?June 3, 2022
Stanley S
10
Yes, these parts will fit your vehicle.
June 3, 2022
Andra M
Will this fit a 2002 GMC Sierra Denali?September 1, 2022
John D
10
This kit will fit the 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali with 4WD.
September 1, 2022
Andra M
Will this fit an 06 chevy tahoe z71?September 16, 2022
Geno M
10
This part will not fit your vehicle, but we may have a part that is listed to fit.
Please enter your vehicle's year make and model in the search bar at the top of the page. This will display parts guaranteed to fit your vehicle. Just be sure to verify all of the information shown in the Vehicle Fit tab before ordering.
September 17, 2022
Kelly S
What are the control arms made out of ?December 19, 2022
Darrell W
10
Our parts are exact replacements for your vehicle's OEM parts. As long as your year, make, and model match up with our listing, these parts will directly fit and function like the originals.
December 20, 2022
Kelly S
Would this fit 2wd 2004 yukon?May 17, 2023
Timothy's G
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
May 18, 2023
Emma F
10
Will it for my 2002 Yukon xl 2 wheel drive
May 24, 2023
J P
My 2002 Yukon is 2 wheel drive is this kit the one I need? ThxMay 24, 2023
J P
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle.
May 25, 2023
Jessica D
Does this kit come with all the hardware (snap rings, cotter pins, etc)?July 14, 2023
John D
Does this come with all new hardware also?March 10, 2024
John D
10
What you see is what you get
March 11, 2024
Randy G
10
The only hardware that would be needed if I remember right is for the upper control arms and i do not believe it came with them (its been a over a year since I installed them)
March 11, 2024
Christopher C
10
It doesn't come with new control arm bolts
March 11, 2024
Darrel Y
10
New hardware is not included with this item. You may be able to reuse your original hardware if it is in good condition.
March 11, 2024
Nick R
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
GMC is a registered trademark of General Motors Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by GMC or General Motors Company.See all trademarks.
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