1ASFK03014-Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Front 6 Piece Steering & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA59107

1ASFK03014 1ASFK03014-3780672-2005 TRQ false

Replaces

2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV Front 6 Piece Steering & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA59107

Name: 1ASFK03014-Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Front 6 Piece Steering & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA59107
Brand: TRQ
SKU: 1ASFK03014
Price: 305.95 USD
Availability: InStock
Rating: 5/ 5.0 (3 reviews)

02-06 Chevy, GMC Silverado, Sierra, Escalade, Tahoe, Yukon Steering & Suspension Kit (6 Piece)

PSA59107

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Specification

Location

Front

Product Features

100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life

Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life

Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear

Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel

TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.

What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.

Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.

Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.

Bearing TypeTapered Roller Bearing

Item Condition: New

Attention California Customers:

proposition 65 icon WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Lifetime Warranty

This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.

FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.

Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.

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How to Replace CV Axle Shaft 2000-06 Chevy Suburban

How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 1999-2006 Chevy Silverado

Created on:

Tools used

35mm Socket

Reciprocating Saw

Socket Extensions

Torque Wrench

14mm Socket

15mm Socket

Pry Bar

Jack Stands

Ratchet

36mm Socket

22mm Socket

1. Removing the Wheel

Removing the Wheel Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver Loosen the 35mm nut but don't remove it Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground Raise the vehicle with a floor jack Secure the vehicle on jack stands Remove the lug nuts Pull off the wheel

2. Removing the Stabilizer Link

Using locking pliers to clip onto the top of the stabilizer link Then remove 14mm bolt from bottom of the stabilizer link Remove the stabilizer link with a hammer or reciprocating saw

3. Removing the Axle

Use a pry bar to hold the hub in place Loosen and remove the 15mm bolts Hammer the axle over to the side to release it Pull it straight back and out of the wheel and down and out

4. Reinstalling the Axle

Feed the axle into the place Line up the back and replace the 15mm bolts Use a pry bar to hold the hub in place Torque each bolt to 65 ft/lbs

5. Replacing the Stabilizer Link

Put the stabilizer piece back into place Use four washers, four grommets, and a tube Use a jack stand to help push it through till it appears through the top Tighten the 14mm bolt on the stabilizer link Tighten until the bushings are the same diameter as the washers

6. Replacing the Wheel

Replace and tighten the 35mm nut Put the tire in place Replace and tighten each lug nut Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 ft/lbs Torque the center hub nut to 160 ft/lbs Replace the hub cap and tighten the lug nut caps

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video we're going to show you to replace a front axle on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side it's the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2006.The items you need for this include a new front axle from 1AAuto.com, 14mm, 15mm, 22mm, 35mm, and 36mm sockets, a ratchet with an extension, a pry bar, locking pliers, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle.

Loosen the lug nut caps and remove the hubcap and then pry off this cap as well. Loosen this 35mm nut, but don't remove it. Now, you want to remove the lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to do it while the vehicle is on the ground. Loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, then pull the wheel off. Using locking pliers, clip onto the top of your stabilizer link and then remove this 14mm bolt. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. If you have air-powered tools, you can remove this 35mm nut the rest of the way, and then remove the washer behind it. If you don't, you can use your socket and ratchet, but you will need someone to apply the brakes while you do this.

You also want to remove the stabilizer link now. Ours is jammed in there, we try with a hammer to knock it out, but we have to end up using a reciprocating saw to remove it the rest of the way, meaning we will need to use a new stabilizer link. Now, you want to remove these bolts around the axle. Use a pry bar on the hub to just hold that into place. Then loosen up and remove each of those 15mm bolts. Now hammer the axle over to the side a little bit to break it free, then pull it straight back and out of the wheel. Pull it down and out.

Up top is the new axle from 1AAuto, on the bottom is the original. You can see they're identical. The new axle does come with a new nut that is 36mm. Now, feed your axle back into place. Line up the back and just replace those 15mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does this. Using your pry bar to hold the wheel still again, you want to torque each of those bolts to 65 foot-pounds. Now, you want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole and then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube. Then, before going through the next hole, another washer, and then a grommet. On the top, another grommet and another washer. Put your jack underneath the bolt part of that stabilizer link and raise up the jack and that will push that bolt up in there, compress a couple of the bushings, and then you can put your washer and bolt onto the top side.

Tighten up the stabilizer link, and you basically want to tighten it up until the bushings compress and are the same diameter as the washers. Now, replace this 35mm nut and tighten it up. Put the wheel back into place, and then replace each of your lug nuts, and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torque the hub nut to 160 foot-pounds, then replace the dust cap as well as the hubcap and tighten up the plastic lugs.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Tools used

Adjustable Wrench

Bearing Grease

Hammer

Flat Blade Screwdriver

Torque Wrench

Ratchet

Needle nose pliers

Grease Gun

1. Removing the Wheel

Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket Pry off the center cap by hand Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground Raise the vehicle with a floor jack Secure the vehicle on jack stands Remove the lug nuts Pull off the wheel

2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod

Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod Make note of this measurement Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench Remove the 18mm nut from the outer tie rod end Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to loosen the outer tie rod Pull the outer tie rod out of the steering knuckle Hold the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench Twist off the outer tie rod by hand

3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod

Attach the grease fitting to the new outer tie rod Tighten the grease fitting with a 7mm socket and ratchet Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle Fasten the 18mm castle nut onto the outer tie rod Push the cotter pin through the castle nut Twist the cotter pin into place with needle nose pliers Fill the tie rod with grease, using a grease gun Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod This should be the same as the measurement noted in Step 2 Tighten the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench

4. Reattaching the Wheel

Slide the wheel into place Start the lug nuts by hand Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily Lower the vehicle to the ground Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern Reattach the center cap Tighten the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2001 to 2006. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; 7mm, 13mm, 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet; flat-blade screwdriver; adjustable wrench; tape measure; pliers; hammer; and a grease gun.

You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then, you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's in the air.

Now you want to measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the edge of your outer tie rod and just remember that measurement. Now, using your adjustable wrench, loosen up this nut right here, and then you want to remove this 18mm nut down here. Now just hit on your knuckle with a hammer and this is going to break up that outer tie rod and make it easier to pull out. Now just hold this nut with the adjustable wrench, pull the outer tie rod off and just twist it until it comes free. We'll fast forward as Don does this. You want to make sure that the inner tie rod doesn't spin while you're removing the outer tie rod.

Now, put the grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and just tighten that 7mm grease fitting up. Then twist the outer tie rod back onto your inner tie rod and push it down into place. Now, replace the castle nut and just tighten that up. Then push the cotter pin through and, using your pliers, just bend the ends of it. Now, using your grease gun, fill the tie rod with grease. Measure, and you should get about the same distance. That's a good preliminary alignment. You should have your car aligned after this. Tighten up the lock nut to hold it in place.

Now replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.