2004 Chevrolet Tahoe Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA63535

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the lower control arm on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger's side, but on the driver's side it's the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 and 2006.The items you'll need include a new lower control arm from 1AAuto.com, a 14mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, and 35mm socket and ratchet with a socket extension, a 21mm wrench, locking pliers, a hammer, a pry bar, a torque wrench, a jack and jack stand, spray paint, and the reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle. We do recommend two people for this job, and also air-powered tools.

Start off by spraying this bolt with some spray paint, so that you can match up to the same thread where it was. Then, just remove your hubcap by loosening up these lug nut caps and pulling the hubcap free, and then pry up this cap. Loosen this 35mm nut, but don't remove it. Now, you want to remove your lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to do it while the vehicle is on the ground, loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and then pull the tire off.

Now that the paint has had a chance to dry, just loosen this bolt all the way up, which loosens up the tension on the torque tube. Remove this 24mm nut. Now, you want to loosen these, and it's a 24mm nut and a 22mm bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike loosens both of these. You can remove the nut, but you want to keep the bolt in place. Using locking pliers, clip on to the top of your stabilizer link. Then remove this 14mm bolt. Next, you want to remove this 21mm nut. In order to do that, you're going to first want to just jack up the lower control arm. This will release some of the pressure on the shock. Then, just remove that 21mm bolt. Now, with the nut back in place, on the bottom of your lower control arm, just put the jack underneath it, and just push this up. Then hammer on the side of it and the knuckle will fall off of the lower control arm. Now you can lower the jack.

Next, you want to jack up underneath the lower control arm and remove the nut. If you have air-powered tools you can just remove this 35mm nut the rest of the way, and then remove the washer behind it. If you don't, you can use your socket and ratchet, but you will need someone to apply the brakes while you do this. You also want to remove the stabilizer link now. Ours is jammed in there, we tried with a hammer to knock it out, but we have to end up using a reciprocating saw to remove it the rest of the way. Meaning, we will need to use a new stabilizer link.
Now, you want to remove these bolts around the axle. Use a pry bar on the hub, you just hold that into place and then loosen up and remove each of those 15mm bolts. Now, just hammer the axle over to the side a little bit to break it free, and then pull it straight back and out of the wheel, and just pull it down and out. Push the shock out of the lower control arm. Then jack up the lower control arm until the wheel knuckle falls through. Now, lift up the wheel knuckle, and just let the jack fall free. You can pull it out the rest of the way. Then just remove those two bolts that you left on the back of the lower control arm. We'll fast forward as Mike does this.

Once you remove that bolt, you can just pull the control arm down. You want to have someone lift up the wheel knuckle, or you can try to do both, but it's a lot easier with an extra person to lift that up. Pull that control arm down and over. On the right is the old control arm, on the left is the new one from 1A Auto; you can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to get the control arm onto the torsion bar first. Sorry, we didn't take a good video, we didn't take a good angle, but I'm working the nut part of the control arm onto the torsion bar. Once I get that in place, then push up in place and work your bolts back in.

We'll just fast forward as he replaces both nuts and tightens them up preliminarily. Once you get the bolts back in you can use a jack to support the control arm, and then line up the stud or the ball joint into the steering knuckle, and then let the jack down. Then, actually put the jack underneath the steering knuckle and support just the steering knuckle. Raise the steering knuckle into place and put the bolt onto the ball joint. Then tighten that up. Tighten up those other two bolts as well. Now, feed you axle back into place, and line up the back. Just replace those 15mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this.

Now, using your pry bar to hold the wheel still again, you just want to torque each of those bolts to 65 foot-pounds. Now, you want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole, then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube; then, before going through the next hole, another washer and grommet; then, on the top another grommet and another washer, then the nut. If you don't have much room up there, then you can just use your jack stand to help push it through. You want to do this until you can get the nut on the tall. You can tighten up this 18mm bolt back to the line of the paint. Replace the lower bolt and the shock, and just tighten that up. We'll fast forward as Mike does this.

I'm torquing the control arm bolts. You'll notice I have the jack underneath the control arm. I've basically got the full weight on the control arm, getting in position, so when you torque them they'll be in the riding position. Now tighten up your link so that the bushings are basically the same width as the washers, and replace this 35mm nut and tighten it up. Put the wheel back into place, and then replace each of your lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Okay, now torque your center hub nut to 160 foot-pounds, and then put the dust cap on there, which if you notice I forgot to do, then put the hubcap on.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1A Auto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-something years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.

In this video I'm going to show you inner and outer tie rod replacement. This truck actually just needed the inner, but if you're replacing the inner, you might as well replace the outer as well. These tie rods fit this whole generation of GM trucks and SUV's - trucks from 98 - 06 and SUV's from 99 - 07.
The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a 22 mm lug wrench or socket and ratchet. You'll need either a 35 mm wrench or a 12 inch adjustable wrench that can go to 35 mm and then you'll need a second adjustable wrench as well, a tie rod removal tool, a grease gun, torque wrench, and pliers.
The clunking noise was the inner tie rod. You can see here, when I shake the tire back and forth you'll see the inner tie rod move but that steering arm inside doesn't move, so you know there's play in there and it needs to be replaced.

Start out by raising and securing the vehicle on a jack stand and then remove your cap and wheel. We're going to remove this bolt. We've got a ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. The bolt should come off pretty easily. Take the bolts off most of the way. I'm planning on replacing the outer tie rod as well, so I'm going to use a pickle fork to separate it. The best way to go about this is to get the wrench on it from underneath and push. That should break her free. I'm just going to speed up as I pull that out. You want to make sure that your outer tie rod spins with the wrench so the whole assembly spins and you don't shorten or lengthen the tie rod -- the inner and outer tie rod assembly.

There's your whole assembly out. If you can see here, I've got my old assembly, inner tie rod and outer tie rod, and I want to measure right from the edge of this surface here right to the end. I'm taking my new inner tie rod and outer tie rod and I put them together, just to compare. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. We'll put this nut a little closer. We can put it together now. It will be a good preliminary alignment until you can get your vehicle to a shop where you can get a real alignment.

I'm just leaving my nut right there and spinning my outer tie rod off. The nut marks the place where your tie rod was and then taking off that outer tie rod just makes it easier to get the inner one on. That allows me put my inner tie rod on. Speed it up here as I use the wrench to tighten the tie rod up. Then I can put my outer tie rod right back on and go right up to the nut. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I put that outer tie rod back on the inner tie rod. Now I'm just taking the nut or just getting the outer tie rod in place. Take the nut off the new tie rod, and I'm just going to get some of the debris off the steering knuckle there, and then you can push on the stud on the tie rod and get it lined up with the steering knuckle, and then push it up and in, and start your nut back on.

We'll tighten this up to 65 foot-pounds. Pull a little tighter here and we can get this cotter pin through. We'll fast-forward here as we install the cotter pin and bend the end over and then use a 7 mm wrench and install our grease fitting. We'll take a wrench screw up here. The other one holds the outer tie rod and just tighten up the block nut. Now you want to use a grease gun and grease both the joint for the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod.

Use some more fast-forward here. As you put the wheel and tire back on, start all the lug nuts one by one by hand first, then use your wrench to preliminary tighten them, then you can lower the vehicle back down on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm using a crossing pattern and then I do it one more time, go around all eight and make sure they're tight. Then you can put your center cap back on and you should be all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2001 to 2006. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; 7mm, 13mm, 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet; flat-blade screwdriver; adjustable wrench; tape measure; pliers; hammer; and a grease gun.

You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then, you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's in the air.

Now you want to measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the edge of your outer tie rod and just remember that measurement. Now, using your adjustable wrench, loosen up this nut right here, and then you want to remove this 18mm nut down here. Now just hit on your knuckle with a hammer and this is going to break up that outer tie rod and make it easier to pull out. Now just hold this nut with the adjustable wrench, pull the outer tie rod off and just twist it until it comes free. We'll fast forward as Don does this. You want to make sure that the inner tie rod doesn't spin while you're removing the outer tie rod.

Now, put the grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and just tighten that 7mm grease fitting up. Then twist the outer tie rod back onto your inner tie rod and push it down into place. Now, replace the castle nut and just tighten that up. Then push the cotter pin through and, using your pliers, just bend the ends of it. Now, using your grease gun, fill the tie rod with grease. Measure, and you should get about the same distance. That's a good preliminary alignment. You should have your car aligned after this. Tighten up the lock nut to hold it in place.

Now replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.