Replaces
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an ABS Sensor on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000-2006. We show on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this includes a new ABS Sensor from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket, a ratchet with a piece of a pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx Bit, a 5mm Allen Bit, pliers, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast-forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off.
Next, remove this 5mm Allen bolt. Using your flat blade screwdriver, just pry up on the sensor, pull it free, and then push it through the back end plate and out. Using your pliers, just push the tabs on the harness, pull this free, and pry it out of this bracket right here and again right here. You can see the clip on ours breaks, that's fine. Just make sure that you remove the broken part that's left over. Hold the harness free, pry up on the tab, disconnect it, and your ABS Sensor is free. On the left is the old ABS Sensor; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
You don't need the bottom part if you left your other clip up there so you can just pull that free, connect your harness, re-clip the harness, and then push these clips back into the brackets. Then push these tabs back to the slot. Now apply the lubricant to the outside of the sensor. Replace this bracket, feed that back down into place, and then replace that 5mm Allen bolt. I'll fast-forward as Don tightens that up.
Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps.
After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you to correctly to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, enjoy the video.
In this video, we are going to replace the front ABS harness on this 2002 GMC Sierra, same as most of these vehicles from '99 to '06. These can get broken, you can hit an obstruction, and the harness can get torn or they can just sometimes wear out and break over time. We shall need our 18, 21 and 22 mm sockets with the ratchet. You may need a pipe or breaker bar for some leverage on some of those bolts that are little difficult; Allen wrench and adjustable wrench, large flat plate screwdriver, and a pair of pliers.
Start out by using a 21 mm socket and just loosening the plastic retainers and taking off the hubcap if you have the style wheels. You want to raise and secure the vehicle if you are not working with air tools like I'm, then loosen the lug nuts for the wheels on the ground, then raise it with a jack, support it with a jack stand and remove the lug nuts rest of the way and remove the tire.
Okay we are going to remove the caliper, which is two 18 mm bolts; one there and one up here. I'm going to speed things along here and you can see I'm able to get those bolts with the ratchet on. You might want to use a pipe to give you a little extra leverage. I will show that in the next step, and then I actually go to the air tools to get the bolts off the rest of the way. Then I pick a screwdriver; put it in this hole in the caliper here; prying out the caliper. This forces the piston back while I get the caliper up and off. Then you got to take off this caliper bracket, which involves taking off these two bolts here.
Okay fast forward again. You all notice I have a pipe there, that's for some extra leverage on these bolts. These are 21 mm bolts in size and we will just fast forward through me taking them out. Then you are going to pull your brake rotor right off as well. The brake rotor has threaded holes here. If you couldn't get it off, it doesn't pull off, you want to use an M10 or M12 7 cm long bolt and you put the bolts in there and that forces the rotor off. Here I'm just taking one of my bolts and my caliper bracket and just threading it in on a few turns and then putting my brake caliper back on just kind of threading that bolt in and putting on a few turns. This just puts the caliper on a safe place while I'm working.
You need to get here; here is your sensor, the end of your sensor right here. Now I'm going to take an Allen wrench, put it in that bolt that's holding the sensor or adjustable wrench. This whole things is leveraged on this power wrench. This is the bolt, pair of pliers where I want the sensor, pull it up and out. Pull the sensor up and out. Pull this off for a second, put your sensor right up through there. Now using one of these pair of pliers and force these clips out. There is one more up here. It comes out and then right here near your shocks. Right up here near your shocks for the connectors, use a screw driver, pry the pin up and out and very carefully cut the bottom side and over here, the bottom side, all right unplug it. I think here is my old sensor. New sensor from 1A Auto you can see has all the same hooks and connectors.
Start up here and push it back in just like before, put this heat shield down around it, pick the shock, wrap the heat shields down, press it down in. Press that in. Here this pin didn't actually come out. That probably needs a little punch. Punch that through. Down in, that goes in there. Put that right through; just make sure you clean the sensor off. Guide that sensor into the hole with my thumb and then down in. Allen wrench and the screw. I'll just speed it up here as we screw in with the Allen wrench and then use the adjustable wrench to tighten it up and continue with the fast motion as we take that bolt that was holding the caliper, put the caliper up, and put the bracket back on, thread the bolts in and then preliminarily tighten them.
Torque these to a 110 foot pounds and put the brake shoes back on here. Now bring that calipers down and start those long bolts in. You want to make sure that those are nice and clean and have some grease on them because the caliper needs to slide back and forth on those bolts. Torque these caliper bolts to 85 food pounds. Fast forward again here as we hoist the tire up on. You want to start all lug nuts by hand first and then I just use the air ratchet or the impact wrench just to tighten up the lug nuts preliminarily. I don't tighten them all the way up until the vehicle is on the ground.
The wheel works to 120 foot pounds. Again we will speed up here and you can see that kind of cross into the opposite lug nuts and then afterwards I actually go around one by one and just make sure they are all torqued. Okay now put the cap back on and then please stay with it for one more very important step. Make sure that whenever you are taking your brake spare parts that before your drive your vehicle, you pump your brakes so much times and then do test it up before road testing it.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393; we are the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
