2003 GMC Yukon XL 1500 All Wheel Drive Front & Rear 4 Piece Brake Caliper Set TRQ CLA35003

Gonna take the center cap off, use a straight blade screwdriver. Take that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and then a 16-millimeter wrench just to hold the slide from spinning. Loosen these up.

Now just use a screwdriver, pry the caliper off. Pull it out. And you can use a caliper hanger and just support it from the upper control arm right there. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Slide it over here. Take the brake pads off. Just use the same straight blade screwdriver. And take an 18-millimeter socket, take these 2 caliper bracket bolts out. Take these bolts out and slide the bracket right off.

I want to separate the bracket from the caliper. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Take these two bolts out. Now, before we put these anti-rattle clips or brake pad clips on, just use a little brake grease. Just put it right there. That's just gonna prevent some corrosion on the caliper bracket. You can put the clip down and give it a nice thin coat right on top. Do the same for the other side.

And take the caliper bracket, slide it in position. Take the caliper bolts, get those started. You can put some thread-locking compound on them. Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds. Now take the brake pads with the wear indicator facing to the top, slide those in position.

Now we're gonna install this clip on the caliper itself. Just line it up. This piece goes towards the inside and just slips in like that. That looks good. Now take the caliper and line the caliper up. Get the bolt started. Now I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter wrench to prevent the caliper slide from spinning and then tighten this bolt to 31-foot-pounds. Do the same on the top one.

Now we want to top off the brake fluid before we attach the lines or even disconnect the lines because we don't want this brake fluid to go too low, or then it's going to be harder to bleed the system. And take the cap off, wipe it off first with a rag. Make sure you use the appropriate brake fluid. I'm just gonna top it off all the way to the top. That's good. Now we'll just put the cap back on.

Now, if you were not going to replace the brake hose when you're replacing the caliper, you would take this bolt out right here, the banjo bolt, and you're gonna replace the two gaskets on there. You're gonna use an 11-millimeter socket to take those out, put 2 new gaskets on, and then attach it to the caliper. We're gonna replace the hose in our video.

Now, take this cap off of here, take your banjo bolt with some new washers on them or gaskets, copper gaskets. Line this up. And then we're gonna torque this banjo bolt to 30-foot-pounds. Now I'm gonna take the cap off the bleeder right here. Just use a pick or something or even a little screwdriver. And make sure you have a drain bucket underneath or something to catch the fluid and we'll loosen up this bleeder screw. I'm just gonna let it gravity bleed first. Now, take your cap off. Double-check your fluid level before you bleed it, top it off. Now we had the brake line off for about 10 minutes. I only lost about that much fluid, which isn't too bad. So it only went down a little bit. So if you had to go about 10 minutes, that's probably acceptable. Put the cap back on. Now, the fluid started coming out of the bleeder, so it's gravity bled. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter wrench, snug this up, and then if you have any other calipers or brake hoses to replace, now you can move on to the next one. Do all those before you perform a complete brake system bleed.

Now pump up the brake pedal, just go slow. So the pedal is still very spongy. Now what we're gonna do is hold the brake pedal down and open the bleeder up. So it's someone else pushing down on the brake pedal. Go ahead, push it down. When it's holding, I'm gonna open up the bleeder slowly. You're gonna see some air bubbles come out, then I'll close it, then I'll say, okay, you can let up, and then push it down again and have them hold it, open it up, more air bubbles came out. Let up. And hold it. Some more air bubbles came out. And doesn't look like there's any more air. So I can close this one up, tighten that, put the cap back on, just spray this area down with some brake parts cleaner and move onto the next wheel. Now you want to double-check your brake fluid level. Just use a rag, wipe it down, give it a shake. And there's a max line and a min line. Double-check it. Looks good. Adjust accordingly.

If for any reason before you were bleeding the brake fluid or before you were replacing the calipers, if the fluid level got below the master cylinder, you're gonna need to do an automated bleed afterwards. You're gonna need a scan tool and a pressure bleeder. But if you had the fluid up to par, you should be all set.

Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on. Now we're gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And reinstall the center cap.

I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Now, I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And take those bolts out. Just like that, and slide the caliper off. If you have to, you can take a screwdriver, a straight blade screwdriver and just pry a little bit between the rotor, and then that'll just push the pads in, the piston in a little bit. And take a break caliper hanger, and just hang the brake caliper somewhere. Now we'll take the brake pads off.

Just so the rotor doesn't come off, I'm just gonna take a lug nut and just put it on backwards, just to secure the rotor on there. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bracket bolts out. And slide the bracket off. Take the new caliper bracket, just take a little thin coat of brake caliper grease just on that area right there and over here. And take these brake caliper slides, line these up, push those down and another thin coat of grease right there and right there. Do the same for the other side. Take the caliper bracket, slide it over the rotor. You can take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on the bolts and get those started. And torque those bolts to 129 foot-pounds.

Now we can take the brake pads. Now, the warning indicators on the outboard pad has two indicators and the one on the inboard pad only has one. And for the passenger side, you wanna make sure that indicator goes down and same with the driver's side. You want that indicator on the bottom. Now, take the brake caliper itself and line that up. And you wanna make sure that the brake caliper has the bleeder at the top. If you have the bleeder at the bottom, then you're on the wrong side. And caliper goes on the opposite side. And take the caliper guide pins or bolts. Get those started. You can put a little brake grease on these pins as well.

And this happens to be a different fastener than what we use to remove it, it's a T55. And then torque these two bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Before we transfer the brake hose over, just take this banjo bolt out and there's a couple of washes on here, and we're gonna switch these washers over. And then also the bleeder, just take this little cap off, and loosen this up. Use a 10-millimeter wrench. Now, double-check your brake hose. Make sure there's no cracking in the brake hose itself. And this one looks pretty good. It's always a good idea to replace the brake hose when you're replacing a caliper, but sometimes you don't have a choice. And then I'm gonna use an 11-millimeter socket and take this banjo bolt out.

And make sure your brake reservoir actually has a good amount of brake fluid in it because you're gonna lose some. So take the old banjo bolt off and take the seals off. Now it looks good. And then take the new banjo bolt with one of the washers on one side and put the other washer on the opposite side of the brake line, or brake hose, and get that started into the caliper. And it goes on this way. There is this little square at the bottom, has to line up properly with the brake hose going up. And tighten this down. And torque this bolt to 30 foot-pounds.

Now, you can let this gravity bleed a little bit. Most of the brake fluid's gonna come through the system, push all the air out of the caliper and then you can snug this leader up. At this point, you can bleed the brakes normally. So when you bleed the brakes, you're gonna want someone else to pump the pedal for you as you open and close the bleeder. So if you have, start by having them pump the pedal until it gets hard because it's gonna be a big air gap in between the brake caliper piston and the brake pad itself. And then have them hold it. All right, go ahead, hold it. As they're holding the breakdown, open the bleeder. Some of the air just shot out and then close it up. All right, pump it again. Have them pump it three times and then hold it. And then open the bleeder screw, slowly. Some more air came out.

All right, tighten that up again. All right, go ahead, pump it. All right. And then open it up again. And that looked nice and clean, no air. So that should be good. Snug that up. Go ahead. Pump it. All right. If it feels good, you're all set. You can do the same with the other ones. Put that cap back on and you can clean up some of that brake fluid. You could use some soapy water or some brake parts cleaner. Right now I can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back on. Lug nuts on. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check. And check the brake fluid level after you're done and adjust accordingly. You wanna make sure you always maintain fluid in the reservoir while you're doing the procedure.