Replaces
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Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers
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Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers
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Ceramic 13 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 GMC Savana 2500. It's a similar process on the Chevy Express. The items you'll need for this is a new break set from 1A Auto, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm socket and ratchet, a breaker bar and a piece of pipe for leverage, a flat blade screwdriver, penetrating oil, a hammer, large C-clamp, white grease, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by removing the wheel cover or whatever wheel trim you might have. This one has a chrome one. Pull that off, and then just use your socket and pull or loosen the lug nut covers. Pull the center cap off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then jack up and secure the vehicle. Then remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Turn the wheel so that you can get to the brake. On the back of the caliper, there's two 18mm bolts. You just want to remove these. It can be a little difficult, so it helps to use a piece of pipe for extra leverage. We're just going to fast forward as he removes this.
The next step, you want to use a flat blade screwdriver to just pry the brake pads away from the caliper, and it will allow you to pry off that caliper. Just keep using the flat blade screwdriver, top and the bottom, you could see he's just going back and forth until, eventually, it will come off. You just want to set that aside.
Now, using the flat blade screwdriver, you just want to pry out your brake pads. Now on some vehicles, it's going to be more difficult than on others. It depends on the condition of the brakes. In this case, it takes just a little effort, and if you have to, you can use a hammer just be careful not to damage or bend anything. We're just going to fast-forward a little bit as he removes those brake pad slides.
There are two 21mm bolts back here that hold on this caliper bracket. Ours are a little rusted, so we spray them with some penetrating oil first, just to loosen them up and let that sit for a second. Then, using a breaker bar, and, actually, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, we just remove those bolts, and we're just fast-forwarding here as he does that. When you remove those bolts, the caliper bracket will come right off.
Now, you just want to take a hammer and hammer the back of that rotor. Just keep turning it and hammering the back of it, and it's going to come off. With the old rotor; the new rotor. New pads; same size. With this caliper guide, you can replace these boots . If they're torn, you pull them out and you push them in. The most important thing about the brakes here, what we found was the pedal was soft, it didn't feel like they should, and you'll notice that when these were sliding or weren't sliding and getting stuck on this corroded brake slide hardware, you know it's the new parts, allow the pad to slide just it should when they're new.
Now we're just cleaning up the new rotor real quick. What you want to do is you want to take some white grease and just put it on the clips of these new brake pads. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, just scrape some of the corrosion on that caliper bracket. This will just help those slides to clip back on. Now, what you want to do is just clip those slides on, and as Don was saying: "They make a difference." New ones are definitely worth it and 1A Auto does sell these. This just clips right into place. We'll just push them down.
Now, what you want to do is just reset the pistons in this caliper. What you want to do is take one of your brake pads. If you're changing them, you want to use one of the old ones, and you want to lay it across these two pistons. Then, using a large C-clamp, as you tighten the clamp, that paddle push those pistons back in and reset them, as you can see here. Now they're reset.
Now we're just going to put on our brand new rotor, and once you get it into place, you just want to put one of those lug nuts on, and it will just hold it into place. We put the rest of the brakes together. Now you can put your caliper bracket back on, and, to place those bolts, you want to just do them first by hand. Then, once you get them lined up and both them in place, you can use a socket and ratchet to tighten them the rest of the way. Now you want to just torque those bolts to 100 foot-pounds.
Now you can put your brake pads back in. Now, for these caliper pens, what you want to do is you want to clean them off a little bit, and then put some white grease on them, this will help them so that they slide easier.
What you want to do, pull down your caliper and just fit it into place. Now you can see up here, you want that little gasket there to go in and you can slide your bolts back in. We'll fast-forward here as he tightens those up with a socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 100 foot-pounds. We're just going to fast-forward here as you remove that nut, put the wheel into place, and you just want to replace all those nuts and tighten them in a crossing pattern.
Again, if you don't have air tools, you just want to lower the vehicle and tighten those the rest of the way on the ground. Then you want to torque those lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Before actually driving the vehicle, you want to pump the brake until they're firm, and then you want to do a test, stopping from 5 mph then 10 mph.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm gonna take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver to get that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and then a 16-millimeter wrench just to hold the slide from spinning. Loosen these up. Now, just use a screwdriver, pry the caliper off. Pull it out. Then you can use a caliper hanger and just support it from the upper control arm right there. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Slide it over here. Take the brake pads off. Just use the same straight blade screwdriver. And take an 18-millimeter socket, take these 2 caliper bracket bolts up. Take these bolts out and slide the bracket right off. Now, take the rotor off. If it's stuck on there, just take a hammer, give it a tap in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs. Keep it loose. Try not to breathe any of that in and slide it off. I'm just gonna clean up this surface right here. You can use a wire brush or some type of grinding wheel. Just be careful, you don't wanna take too much material off. Just get some of the rust off. Take a little anti-seize, just put it on the hub area right here. Now, we're just gonna put the rotor on backwards first and we're gonna clean off the surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. There is a protective coating on this, clean that up. You can clean up the inside of the drum area as well for the parking brake. Flip that around and clean off this area as well.
When you go to put the rotor on, you may have to adjust the parking brake. You can spin that wheel either forward or backward and...or you can either tighten it or loosen it. Just slide the rotor on just to make sure it spins good. And then double-check with your parking brake and adjust accordingly. Now, take these pad clips off or pad slides or sometimes they call them anti-rattle clips. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Use a wire brush, clean up any rust built up, right here, and on the other side. With that cleaned up, and then just take a little brake caliper grease, give it a nice thin coat. It's gonna keep the moisture out, keep it from rusting as bad as it was. Then take these clips and slide it in position. Put more caliper grease, just a nice thin coat there and there, wherever the pads are gonna contact it. And then do the same on this side. I'm gonna take these caliper guide pins out. Use a little brake parts cleaner and a rag, clean these up. And I'll also spray a little brake parts cleaner down there. Clean those up with a rag as well. You can drain anything out. And take some brake caliper grease, coat the pin, put it back in. Make sure it seals, and do the same on this one. Slide the brake caliper bracket in place, put the bolts in. You can use a little thread locking compound on the bolts. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122 foot-pounds.
Now, I'm gonna install the brake pads. Make sure you have the brake pad warning indicator facing up on the outside and also on the inside. Now, take the brake caliper off, take the hanger off. Now, I have to compress the caliper, so use a brake caliper compressing tool. Just compress it really slow. This is gonna push the fluid through the hoses, back through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir. Just go nice and slow. All right, if that's compressed, pull the compressing tool out. Now, we have a new little bracket right here. It comes with the brake kit. Just take a straight blade screwdriver, this little tab right here, just push in on that tab. Slide that off, take the new one, slide it in there, and then just push it, lock it in place. So, that's in there just like that. This is just gonna push down on the pads and just keep them from rattling around. Slide the caliper over the brake pads in the bracket. Take the two bolts, install the bolts. You can put some thread locking compound on those bolts, and then use my 16-millimeter wrench, 12-millimeter socket, torque these bolts to 31 foot-pounds. And reinstall the wheel, put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Then just go around again, double-check. And then reinstall the center cap. Now, I'm gonna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pad, so we wanna eliminate that air gap. And once the pedal feels good, then you're all set. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. There's the minimum line right there and the max line right there, adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Just take this center cap off. Use a straight-blade screwdriver. Get behind here. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off.
We're gonna take these two caliper bolts out. We're gonna use a T55 socket. I'm just going to tap them in, because this is pretty rusty. There we go. Cracked it free. I'll use the gun. That one came right out.
Slide those up. Take a straight-blade screwdriver. Just pry out on the caliper a little bit. Compress the piston and slide the caliper off. We have to flip it over. Good idea to attach it somehow, so it doesn't fall. But if you can get it to sit right there, that's good. And just take the old brake pads off.
Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts off. These are normally on there pretty tight. There we go.
All right. Those are broken free. Take those out.
Grab the brackets. Slide it right off.
Grab the rotor. Slide it off. If it doesn't come off that easy, take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs.
Now we're gonna clean up this bracket. Just take a straight-blade pocket screwdriver. Get these clips off. And there's a lot of rust underneath here. Take a wire brush, clean this up. If you have to you can use a file. Just be careful. You don't want to take too much material off.
And take some brake caliper lubricant, and just wipe that down. Brake caliper grease, right there and right there. And take the new caliper slides or anti-rattle clips. Put those on there.
Line it up. Find the right one. Put it on there. Then put a little more brake caliper grease on here. Just a thin coat, just where the pads are gonna make contact.
We ended up replacing the hub, but if you have your old hub on here and it's rusty, take a wire brush. Just clean these areas. Make sure it's smooth.
Take a little bit of anti-seize. Just go around the hub, mostly around the center here, and spread it out, a nice, thin coat.
I'm just gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards. I'm just gonna clean this surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. I'm gonna wipe it with a rag. There's just that protective coating on there to prevent it from rusting. And flip it over. Do the same on this side and wipe it down.
Now take the old caliper bolts. I'll just put a little thread-locking compound on there, and line the caliper bracket up. It goes this way. And put the bolts in. Get those lined up.
And use a torque wrench and torque these to 129 foot-pounds. Good.
Now install the new brake pads. Now, the warning indicator on the inside is gonna go at the bottom, in just one, not one at the top. And just slide that into position, and the outside one will have both.
That's good. Now I'm gonna compress the caliper. Use a caliper compressing tool. If you have to, use the old brake pad to help you. And just go slow. You don't want to push these in too fast. This is gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder.
All right, those are compressed. Take the tool out. Just make sure the seals look good, the dust seals. And those look good. Now put the caliper back over the pads. Line it into the bracket.
Take the brake caliper pins. Just use a little brake parts cleaner on them. Wipe them off. Get some brake caliper grease. Grease them up and slide the pins back in position. Get them started and tighten them down.
Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to...these caliper guide pins to 80 foot-pounds. There we go.
Then put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on.
Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check.
Install the center cap. Now just pump the brake pedal. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Pump that up. Just go slow, and once it feels good, then you're all set.
And double check your brake fluid level in the brake reservoir. The max line is right there. If you give it a little shake, our fluid is right about there.
Tools used
We're gonna start by taking the wheel off. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off all the lug nuts. And take the wheel off. Now, we can take these caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And if the caliper slide is spinning, you can use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold it while you take the bolt out. Now, you can grab the caliper. You might want to rock it back and forth a little bit. That'll compress the piston a little, make it easier to slide off.
And then, you can use a brake caliper hanger, and just hang it from the upper control arm, or you can hang it from the coil spring just like that. Just make sure there's not any tension on the brake hose itself. Now, take the brake pads off, just slide them out of the way. Now, we're gonna take the bracket off. You need to take these two bolts out, use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen these up. And then, grab the bracket, and just slide it off. Now, you're gonna take the rotor off, just grab it and slide it.
If it's stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these locations. It's stuck on the parking brake a little bit. Just try to wiggle it. You can just take a prybar and try, and pry in here a little bit. It should get this off. All right. I'm just gonna take two screwdrivers, just try to wiggle this back and forth. There we go, slides right off. Before you put the new rotor on, just take a wire brush, and just clean up some of the rust right here. You could also use a die grinder, and just don't sand down too much. Just get some of the rust off.
Now, you're gonna install this rotor backwards first. Take a little brake parts cleaner, just clean off the backside, and flip it around, and slide it over the parking brake. If you have to adjust the parking brake, you can adjust it right there. And then, spray this side with brake parts cleaner, and wipe it down with a rag. Now, you're gonna take a wire brush, and just clean up this bracket. If you're gonna reuse these clips, just clean these up. If not, take them off.
Just clean up some of this rust right here. Do the same with the other side. And then, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a nice, thin coat right here. Same on the other side. And then, take these pad slides, and do the same. Put on a nice, thin coat. And then, take these pad slides out. The slide pins. Take a little break parts cleaner and a rag. Just wipe these off. You can clean this out with brake parts cleaner as well. Wipe that down.
Take a little brake caliper grease, and just reinstall it, and do the same with the other side. Now, take the caliper bracket, and line it back up. Brake caliper bolts, get those started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds. Now, I'm gonna put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicators are gonna go to the top. So, on the inboard pad goes at the top and same with the outboard pad. Just slide them into position. That's good.
Now, I'm gonna take the brake caliper off the hook. Now, I'm just gonna take the old brake pads and a caliper compressor tool and just compress the pistons. You need to push them back into the caliper, and just slowly compress it. You don't want to do it too fast. It's just gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir.
All right. That's good. Fully compressed, and just slide it over the brake pads. Put the caliper bolts in. And take a 17-millimeter wrench, and torque this bolt to 30-foot-pounds. Do the same on the top. All right. Put the wheel on, and put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheels down evenly, and just go around and double-check.
Tools used
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts, so we can remove the wheel. And remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first, and slide those out. Now, I'll take a screwdriver, I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit, just go in between the caliper and the rotor, make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself, just hook it on the upper control arm, or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Pry them off. Now, we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket, loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off. Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Just take a little anti seize, and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice, thin coat.
Take the new rotor. Just going to put it on backwards, first. Take some brake parts cleaner. Just clean the back side of the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. And flip it over, and clean the front side, and wipe it down. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. All right. Just take the brake caliper bracket. Use a screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver. Slide these anti rattle clips off where the pad slides off. Take a wire brush, just clean off the rust on this area.
All right. Now, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a little bit on the ears, where the pad slides are going to go. Take the new pad slides, line them up, press them on. And take a little caliper grease, just put a nice thin coat right here, and right here, and do the same on the other side. And, just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor.
Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now, I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes on the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those into position.
Now, I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the brake fluid...push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower the better.
All right, those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts, clean them off with some brake parts cleaner, just wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts, or guide pins, and torque those to 80 foot-pounds.
Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or in a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double-check.
Now after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal, nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that, until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level, and adjust accordingly.
