Kit Includes: (1) Front Ceramic Brake Pad Set with Contact Point Grease & Hardware (1) Rear Ceramic Brake Pad Set with Contact Point Grease & Hardware (2) Front G-Coated Performance Brake Rotors (2) Rear G-Coated Performance Brake Rotors
Grade Type: Performance
Product Line: Performance
Specification
Drivetrain
Rear Wheel Drive
Location
Front & Rear
Product Features
Improved Stopping Power: Cross-drilled & slotted to reduce brake fade
Longer Lasting: True non-interference vane design for optimized cooling
Positive Molded: Less dust resulting in cleaner wheels
G3000 Casting Alloy - Reduced noise and improved wear resistance
Direct Replacement: No modifications necessary
Front Brake Rotor Venting TypeVentedFront Brake Rotor Diameter12.01 in. (305mm)Rear Brake Rotor Venting TypeSolidRear Brake Rotor Diameter12.99 in. (330mm)Wheel Lug Count6 Lug
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Brake Pads 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
How to Replace Front Brakes 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
Created on:
Tools used
Large C-Clamp
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
Brake Fluid
Ratchet
22mm Socket
T55 Torx Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the 22mm caps on the hubcap with the vehicle on the ground
Pull the hubcap free
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Inspecting the Brakes
Turn the rotor by hand or turn the steering wheel to turn the rotor
Check the thickness of the brake pads
Check the brake pad wear indicator
Check for gouges on both sides of the rotor
3. Removing the Brake Pads
Remove T55 Torx bolts from the brake caliper with a T55 Torx bit and ratchet
Use either a C-clamp to squeeze the rotor or a screwdriver to pry the brake caliper off
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
4. Preparing the Brake Caliper
Apply brake grease to either side of your brake pads
Push the brake pads into place, using a hammer if necessary
Using an old brake pad put it on to the caliper pistons and tighten it in with the C-Clamp
Grease up the caliper bolts
5. Replacing the Brake Caliper
Put the caliper back into place
Slide the slide bolts back in
Tighten the slide bolts to 30 ft/lbs
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the hubcap and tighten the caps
7. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, a 22mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. Check your rotors. If there's any deep grooves or rust you'll want to replace the rotors as well. You can also check your pad life. You can see ours are actually in good shape, but we're going to show you how to replace them anyways.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. Apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.
Push your new brake pads into place and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp, and this will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts, put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now, torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hub cap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you'll want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
12mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
22mm Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pull off the center cap
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Inspecting the Brakes
Check for gouges on both sides of the rotor
Check the thickness of the brake pads
3. Removing the Brake Pads
Remove the two 12mm bolts from the brake caliper
Use a large C-clamp to press in the brake caliper piston
Pull the caliper aside
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
4. Installing the New Brake Pads
Apply brake grease to the tabs of the new brake pads
Put an old pad in the caliper
Use a large C-clamp and the old pad to push the pistons further back
Install the new brake pads into the bracket
Put the caliper on
Thread the two 12mm bolts by hand
Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds of torque
5. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers
6. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, 12 and 22 mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad, and then, through here for the life of the other brake pad.
Now, remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and just twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry out the brake pads.
Take your new brake pads and apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. You want to reset the pistons in your caliper so put an old brake pad in there and just twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons back in. Push your new brake pads into place, and then, put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12 mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place and then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers. Before taking the vehicle out on the road you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Large C-Clamp
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Brake Fluid
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Brake Parts Cleaner
22mm Socket
T55 Torx Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Inspecting the Brakes
Check the thickness of the brake pads
Check the brake pad wear indicator
3. Removing the Rotor and Brake Pads
Remove T55 Torx bolts from the brake caliper with a T55 Torx bit and ratchet
Use either a C-clamp to squeeze the rotor or a screwdriver to pry the brake caliper off
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
Remove the two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
Slide the rotor off
4. Preparing the Rotor and Brake Caliper
Apply brake cleaner to either side of the rotor
Apply brake grease to either end of your brake pads
Use a wire brush to clean up the brake slides on the caliper bracket
5. Replacing the Brake Caliper
Push the rotor back into place
Twist on a lug nut
Put the caliper back into place and tighten the two 18mm bolts
Torque the 18mm bolts to 75 ft/lbs
Push the brake pads into place, using a hammer if necessary
Using an old brake pad, put it on to the caliper pistons and tighten it in with the C-Clamp
Grease up the caliper bolts
Put the caliper back into place
Slide the slide bolts back in
Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the hubcap and tighten the caps
7. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
BKA12664
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.55/ 5.011
11 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
9
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1
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GREAT LOOKING ROTORS
X
September 20, 2017
THIS BRAKE PAD AND ROTOR SET ARE VERY WELL WORTH THE PRICE. LOOK GREAT AND PERFORM WELL.
Great brake kit
Lawrence
November 16, 2017
Great kit for do it yourself job. I also got the front wheel bearinghub pair for the 2004 Chevy suburban 2 wheel drive. I did not read the instruction for slotted and drilled rotors so had to remove and exchange the passenger side rear rotor with the correct one. The driver side went in easy. The front needed new wheel bearing hubs. They were rusted in and wd40 and a little time along with a 3 lb hammer convinced the old hub out. 1AAUTO IS THE BEST.
05 Tahoe brake job
J
July 30, 2018
These brakes were easy to install and stop on a dime! These out perform the OEM style by far!!!
Rear brake pads
Martin
October 15, 2019
I received this set but the rear brake pads did not match up.
Best product for price
R
October 25, 2020
The brake kit ordered for my 2004 Avalanch is a supreme deal, and well deserved for the original owner of a vehicle that just turned over 100,00 miles.
Rotors and pads
Jacob
December 11, 2020
The drilled and slotted rotors fit perfectly and stop way better then factory parts will buy again.
Better Braking for Oversized Wheels & Tires
Daniel
October 22, 2021
I have oversized wheels and tires that are very heavy. I ordered the cross drilled rotors, they are coated to reduce rusting, along with ceramic pads. Visually the quality seems really good. I understand these are all new parts but I am very pleased with the performance of the parts, a feel-able difference from stock.
Question about make?
Brandon
November 12, 2021
Does the kit come with a retaining screw for the front rotors? Do the rotors have a milled hole for a retaining screw for front rotors?
Aryanna
March 2, 2023
Great product but my rotors are already rusting and have had em for three months
Brakes and rotors
Jordan
March 25, 2023
They are great rear pads were wrong but they jumped on top of it when I called and refunded me for rear pads and all great breaks and rotors for sure !!!!will order again in future
Excessive Brake Dust (brake pads suck)
Bryan
February 27, 2024
Installed this Kit along with new ACDelco Calipers and I now have an excessive brake dust problem. I removed the pads a replaced them with ACDelco pads and no more dust. These brake pads suck!
Customer Q&A
How to know what rotors go in the front & rear & which one goes left or right?November 26, 2021
Juaquin T
10
Hello, the packaging will indicate the front or rear location and the directional vein in the rotors indicate the driver side or passenger side.
November 26, 2021
Ricale A
10
Rear are solid rotors, front are vented.
November 29, 2021
David H
Does this fit a 2003 denali?October 7, 2022
John D
10
This is listed to fit
2003-2006 GMC Yukon Rear Wheel Drive
2003-2006 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Rear Wheel Drive
October 8, 2022
Kelly S
Can it work for a 1500 awd 2003 ?December 2, 2022
John D
10
No, this part is not listed to fit. Can you please confirm the make of your vehicle? We can check to see if we have the correct parts.
December 2, 2022
Andra M
Customer service
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