Kit Includes: (1) Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Set with Contact Point Grease & Hardware (1) Front Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Set with Contact Point Grease & Hardware (2) Front G-Coated Brake Rotors (2) Rear G-Coated Brake Rotors
Brake Pad Bonding Type: Premium Posi
Wheel Lug Count: 6 Lug
Rear Brake Rotor Venting Type: Vented
Brake Pad Friction Material: Semi-Metallic
Brake Rotor Coating: Premium G-Coated
Front Brake Rotor Diameter: 12.01 in. (305mm)
Front Brake Rotor Venting Type: Vented
Rear Brake Rotor Diameter: 12.99 in. (330mm)
Specification
Vehicle Axle Option
without Limited Slip Rear Axle
Location
Front & Rear
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ G-coated rotors have long-lasting rust prevention, perfect for wheels with large openings that expose the rotor and rotor hat during daily drives. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Positive Molded: Less dust resulting in clean wheels
G3000 Casting Alloy: Reduced noise and improved wear resistance
Application Specific Design: Extended service life, no modifications
Premium Electrostatic Coated Brake Rotor Features and Benefits
Electrostatically applied finish on both sides of the rotor hat and rotor edge for long lasting corrosion protection.
Uniform coating without any overspray.
Enhanced appearance.
Designed to withstand 400 hours of saltwater exposure without rusting.
Mill balanced and double-disc ground friction surface provides smooth braking and longer pad life.
Front Brake Rotor Diameter12.01 in. (305mm)Rear Brake Rotor Diameter12.99 in. (330mm)Rear Brake Rotor Venting TypeVentedWheel Lug Count6 LugFront Brake Rotor Venting TypeVented
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Brakes 2000-06 Chevy Suburban
Created on:
Tools used
Large C-Clamp
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Torque Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Brake Fluid
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Brake Parts Cleaner
22mm Socket
T55 Torx Socket
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 22mm socket
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Inspecting the Brakes
Check the thickness of the brake pads
Check the brake pad wear indicator
3. Removing the Rotor and Brake Pads
Remove T55 Torx bolts from the brake caliper with a T55 Torx bit and ratchet
Use either a C-clamp to squeeze the rotor or a screwdriver to pry the brake caliper off
Pry the brake pads off with a flat blade screwdriver
Remove the two 18mm bolts from the caliper bracket
Slide the rotor off
4. Preparing the Rotor and Brake Caliper
Apply brake cleaner to either side of the rotor
Apply brake grease to either end of your brake pads
Use a wire brush to clean up the brake slides on the caliper bracket
5. Replacing the Brake Caliper
Push the rotor back into place
Twist on a lug nut
Put the caliper back into place and tighten the two 18mm bolts
Torque the 18mm bolts to 75 ft/lbs
Push the brake pads into place, using a hammer if necessary
Using an old brake pad, put it on to the caliper pistons and tighten it in with the C-Clamp
Grease up the caliper bolts
Put the caliper back into place
Slide the slide bolts back in
Torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs
6. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the hubcap and tighten the caps
7. Testing the Brakes
Pump your brakes repeatedly until they feel firm
Test your brakes at 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour
Road test the vehicle
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
BKA14686
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