Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ G-coated rotors have long-lasting rust prevention, perfect for wheels with large openings that expose the rotor and rotor hat during daily drives. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, a 22mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. Check your rotors. If there's any deep grooves or rust you'll want to replace the rotors as well. You can also check your pad life. You can see ours are actually in good shape, but we're going to show you how to replace them anyways.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. Apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.
Push your new brake pads into place and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp, and this will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts, put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now, torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hub cap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you'll want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
