1992 Chevrolet Blazer 4 Wheel Drive without Z71 Package Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Shock Absorber Set Monroe OESpectrum MNSSP00577

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear shocks on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe. If you replace one of them, we do recommend that you replace both of them. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side shock is the same procedure. It's the same part and process for the Tahoes from '95 to 2000. The items you need for this are new rear shocks from 1AAuto.com, 14mm and 21mm socket and ratchet with extension, 21mm wrench, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.

You want to start off by removing this 21mm bolt and then you're going to remove these two 14mm bolts. Using a 21mm socket and ratchet and a 21mm wrench, you just want to remove that nut. Once the nut's removed, use the socket and ratchet on the other side and just start twisting out the bolt. Now, use a 14mm socket and ratchet with an extension to remove those two upper bolts and we'll just fast forward as Don does this. Once those are removed, the shock will pull down.

Up front is the old shock, in the back is the new shock from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they will fit the same. You will have to just apply some pressure to shrink the new shock. Feed your new shock up into place with a bolt and a 14mm socket and then just tighten it into place. Really, you only need to tighten it preliminarily and then you should start the other bolt. Once you have both bolts started, just got back and forth tightening them up until it's nice and firm. Now, push the shock in and then forward and then line it up and push the bolt through. Then, just replace the nut and washer on the other end and tighten that up with your socket and ratchet and the 21mm wrench. Torque this lower bolt to 75-80 foot pounds and you're all set.

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Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of what we need to do. To get to the upper part of the shock, we're gonna remove this portion right here using a little forkey tool that looks like this. Grab these little push clips, let's pop right out, do the same to them all. There we are.

Now it's time to remove both bolts. You can start wherever you want. I'm gonna start at the top using an 18-millimeter on one side and an 18 on the other. Okay, looks good. I'm just gonna leave that on there a couple of threads. We'll do the same on the bottom. Start that nut on there a couple of threads, hit with some more penetrant. Now let's start driving the bolts out. It's important to make sure you have the nut started on, and if you want to put it flush, that would be better. The reason for that is because you don't want to damage the threads on your bolt when you go ahead and bonk on it with your hammer.

The next thing to do is to apply a little bit of upward pressure on the lower control arm. You can use a floor jack or a post jack, whatever you've got, but just kind of lift it up so you can get a little bit more movement with that bolt. There we are. Grab that washer. Let's grab the shock, see if we can move it around. Up and out. Let's coat this shanked area with some copper never-seize or grease, a little bit like that. Now you have the threaded area, I'm gonna say it's your prerogative to use some thread locker, but I would recommend it. Awesome.

We're gonna take the long bolt, that'll be the one that goes through the top of the new shock. Let's go ahead and compress our shock three to five times. It's time to get the new shock in here. Go right up in between the control arm and go right up in the past and try to get the lower portion in to where it belongs first. You might need to compress the shock a little bit. All right. So now it's sitting down where it needs to go, I'll get that upper portion started in. Don't forget your washer and then, of course, the nut. Do the same thing to the lower.

So to line up the holes, it can be a little bit difficult. You might need to go up a little bit or down a little bit with your control arm to line it up. Let's snug these up. Now let's torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque both these bolts to 66-foot pounds. Let's get this out of here. Let's get this back on here. Let's start at the center. There we are. Let's get the wheel on and torque it to manufacturer specifications. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts, we'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 120-foot pounds. Torque these to 120-foot pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.