Replaces
Part Details
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Today I'm going to show you how to install this upper control arm on this 2008 Chevy Silverado work truck. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description, and head over to 1AAuto.com.
I'm going to take a pry bar and take this hubcap off first. Go around here. Just pry it off. There you go. Pull that off. Set it aside. I'll take a 22 mm socket. I'm going to loosen up these lug caps. Loosen those off. Take the center cap off. And I'll take a breaker bar and a 22 mm socket, and loosen up these lug nuts. Now that all those are loosened up, I'm going to go to the other side and do the same.
Now I'm going to raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two post lift. If you're doing this at your house, you can use a jack and jack stands. I'll take these lug nuts off. Once we get those lug nuts off, just take the wheel off. We're going to disconnect this ABS harness. Just take a trim tool to get underneath here. Slide that up. Disconnect the connector. We want to push down on this little tab. Slide it out like that. Now I'll take a straight blade screwdriver. I'm just going to get in here to release this. It's easier to release it right here and just take the harness off like that, versus using a trim tool. You can do it that way, but it's just easier to do it this way. Set that aside.
We want to disconnect this bracket right here. This is for the brake hose. We'll use a 10 mm socket and a ratchet. Loosen up this bolt. Take that bolt out, and then we can grab the bracket. Slide it up. Set it aside. Now we're going to take this nut off. Loosen it up with a 19mm wrench. You're going to take a socket and a ratchet. Just loosen it up. It's a little bit easier. Oops.
Before I take this nut off completely, I'm just going to keep it on there a couple threads, because I want to break it free from the knuckle, break the upper ball joint from the knuckle. You can use a pickle fork to try to get in between here, and break it free with a hammer, or just slide it into position and then hit it with a hammer. And that popped free, which is good. And having the nut there prevented anything from sliding out too quick.
Now I can push down on this control arm and then pull the nut off, then slide it out just like that. This knuckle is just going to stay in that position or now. I'm going to take these nuts off. I'm just going to use some rust penetrant before I try to loosen them up. Just get it on the nuts. Now I'm going to use a 21 mm wrench. I'm going to go on the inside of this bolt, and a 21 mm socket and a breaker bar. I'm going to loosen up this nut.
Once it's pretty loose, then I can switch to a ratchet. We're going to do the same with the other side. Put a wrench on this bolt right there, and take a 21 mm socket and a breaker bar. Loosen up this nut. Take that nut off. Then you get a straight blade screwdriver and pry under here. Someone actually put this cam adjuster on backwards. This normally would look different. Now I can take this cam adjuster out. Keep in mind the direction these come off. Like I said, this one was backwards. This one should have been this way, should come out like that.
I'll take the other side out and just give this a little tap. This one's on there correctly. This little plastic thing is just to ... So when they install it from the factory, these normally get taken off when there's an alignment done so that they can make the adjustments. Now we're going to take these bolts out. Make sure the knuckle doesn't pull on the caliper hose too much. Just slide it into position where it just sits there. I'm going to take this bolt out. Slide the adjuster. If you slide the upper arm all the way back, it's easier to get the bolt out.
So I'm trying to slide the cam adjuster down the bolt as I slide the bolt out just like that. So we'll set that aside. Make sure you keep it where this one was the backside and that one is the front side. You don't want to get them mixed up. It's almost making it past the spring. Just wiggle it back and forth. I'm going to try to get a bigger pry bar in here and spread the spring a little bit. There we go. Once it got past the head of the bolt, then it's able to slide out like that. Slide that out. We can grab the upper control arm and just pull it right out.
Here's our old part. Here's our new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, the shape is the same, has the same bushings. The new one actually comes with a grease fitting, so it is greasable to make sure it lasts longer. Flip it over. The stud is in the same position. It comes with a new nut. You're going to take this nut off, and there's actually a cover. This is just for shipping purposes. Take that off, and it does come with a cotter pin. Get yours at 1AAuto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
I'm going to take the new upper control arm, slide it into position. I'm going to have to work it back and forth a little bit. You can take a hammer and just give it a tap. That's good. We'll take this bolt and we'll get this one started. I'll just do this. I'm going to use a pry bar and a hammer. Just try to tap the bolt further back into the slot. Further back I go, the easier it will be to get past that spring. And we got that bolt in. We want this cam, this slot on the cam, to go over that little pin, this. So we're going to pry this out a little and slide it up, and then put that back into position just like that. We'll do the same for the front one.
All right. So we got that bolt all the way through. I'll slide this cam back over that little pin right there just like that one. Now I'll take this outer cam. This is going to go on the outside. And I line this up where this plastic goes over that pin. So you may have to pull this out a little bit, because from the factory they align that pin up with that plastic. So there's a little hole there. So line that pin up with that hole just like that. And I'll take the two nuts. Put them up there.
Take my 21 mm wrench, stick it on the bolt on the inside. And then I'll take the 21 mm socket and ratchet, tighten up this nut on the outside. I'll just snug it for now. Actually, not too snug because I still want to be able to move this. I'll do the same with the backside. And snug that, not too tight because you still want to move this. All right.
At this point it's easier to torque these bolts, but I want this arm to be about where it would be at normal ride height. So if you have the ability to put the tire on and put this back together and then re-torque it, that would be ideal. But if you can estimate where ride height would be, take the 21 mm wrench, take the 21 mm socket. We're going to torque this nut to 140 foot-pounds.
We'll do the same with the backside. Take this, pull the knuckle into position. I'm going to use a pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm. Then I'll take the nut. Get this started on the ball joint. Be careful not to slip. All right. Then I'll start to tighten this down with a 18 mm socket and a ratchet. Now I'm going to use a torque wrench and the same 18 mm socket. We're going to torque this to 37 foot-pounds. We'll take a cotter pin. I'm going to try to line it up.
If the castle nut doesn't line up with the hole, you can tighten it a little more. This doesn't line up too well, so just tighten it a little more until the hole lines up. Line that up. Now I'll take some side cutters, and I'm just going to bend the cotter pin down, just like that. You can cut it right there, and then just trim it right here, just like that.
I'm going to install the grease fitting. Just get this lined up. Get it started. Let's just take a 7 mm wrench and just snug this up, not too tight. That's good. Now I'm going to install this brake caliper hose bracket. Just get that in position. Take a 10 mm bolt, get that started. I'm going to use my 10 mm socket and ratchet. Just snug that up. Reposition this ABS wiring harness into this little plastic clip, and then lock it in place. Reconnect the wiring harness here. Click it in, and then put it back into the holes and lock it down.
Now I'm just going to grease this. Take a grease gun. Put it on the grease fitting. Give it a couple pumps. Do a couple more pumps. All right. I like to do it until I see the boot move a little bit so that at least I know the grease made it down below. Now remove the grease gun. Slide the wheel over the lug studs. Put the lug nuts on. I'm going to use a torque wrench and a 22 mm socket, and we're going to torque these down to 140 foot-pounds. We're going to torque them in a star pattern. That's going to tighten the wheel down evenly. Those are good.
Now I'm going to install the center cap. I'll use the socket, the same 22 mm socket, and just snug these down by hand. You really don't want to tighten these because they're plastic. They'll end up breaking. Now we're going to take this outer hubcap and we're going to line this valve stem area up right there, and just push it on.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to replace an upper control arm and ball joint assembly on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. This is a 1500 4-Wheel Drive; this procedure is the same for any 2007 to 2013 Silverado and Sierra 1500. The passenger side is basically the same as the driver's side.
You'll need a new control arm from 1A Auto.com, jack and jackstands, 10 to 22mm sockets with a ratchet and extension, an 18mm wrench, and an additional wrench for some extra leverage, breaker bar or pipe for extra leverage, penetrating oil, hammer, pry bar, and a torque wrench.
From the top, there are three 18mm nuts that hold the top of the strut in place: you see one there; one has a wire loom on it there that I'm going to reach down and grab, and just pull off. Apologies for the camera shot, but you just grab the wire clip and pull it up off the stud. Okay, so you have your other one there, and your third one, there. Now, use an 18mm socket with a long extension, and remove those three nuts. Remove the center cap just by prying with a screwdriver, and if you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle, and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way ... remove the wheel and tire, and they are 22mm lug nuts. Turn the wheel using hands, or use the steering wheel, and then you need to remove the stabilizer link; make sure you put some penetrating oil on the top end of it there, then use a wrench on the top side, and a socket wrench on the bottom side, and remove it all the way. I'm going to speed up here a little bit; we "cheat" a little bit by just using an impact wrench to take that off. That just speeds things up for us. Then, we'll remove the bolt the rest of the way: push down on the suspension, and pull the link out of there.
Up underneath, there are two 15mm bolts; hold the bottom of the shock strut in place. I was just using a 15mm socket and ratchet; you might want a breaker bar to break them loose, but they come apart pretty easy on this truck, and we'll fast forward as we just take those out. Take those bolts out, press down on the suspension some, and bring the strut down, and then up and out.
Now with some penetrating oil, spray down the ends of the two bolts that hold the control arm to the frame. There are little tabs that come out of the frame and go through these washers; and I'm using a paint marker to mark on the washers where those tabs are, so that when we re-assemble this, we can give it a good preliminary alignment. You will want to re-align your truck after you do this repair, but this at least gets it somewhere close to where it was originally. An 18mm nut holds the ball joint to the steering knuckle; put an 18mm wrench on there, and then hook another wrench onto it for extra leverage. Loosen it up. Here, you can see we still have the nut on the ball joint; we're going to put a big pry bar in there; pry between the steering knuckle and the ball joint, and hit the steering knuckle with a hammer until it pops apart.
There's a 10mm bolt on top of the control arm that holds the clip that holds the wire harness: remove that. Now, we're going to support the suspension with a jack. Remove the nuts that are on the end of the bolts that go into the frame; it's a 21mm socket with a ratchet, and we use a pipe for some extra leverage to get the bolts going and once we have them going, they come off easier than just with the ratchet, and I'll fast forward as we finish that up, and do the other side. As you see, here, use a hammer to start driving those bolts out, and then you can work them out by hand. You may have to use a punch and drive them further through. Now, remove the nut the rest of the way off of the top ball joint there, and then you should be able to pull the control arm up and then pull it out; you might need to use a crowbar or a large screwdriver to help pry it out.
The ball joint in our new control arm comes with a grease-able fitting, so we'll install that. Put the new control arm up in place, and you just kind of wiggle it up and down, I guess, to get the bolts to line up preliminarily with the frame. Now, put the bolts back in, get one bolt started in as much as you can, and then actually, if you start the other bolt in on the other side, this kind of lines things up; you should be able to get that bolt most of the way in. Use a hammer to tap it in if you need to, and then go back, and again, if you just move the control arm around a little bit, you should be able to push it in. I'm just going to fast forward as we start the nuts on ... And now, we're putting a wrench on the bolt end, and you can see we just pull it up, and re-align that mark with the tab on the frame, and just preliminarily tighten the nuts up just to hold it in place well. Here, we're just going to let the jack down some. This just relieves a little pressure so that we can then lift the upper control arm up, and get the ball joint lined up and then back into place, and then once it's all set, we'll actually jack the suspension back up until it's basically in the position it should be when the vehicle is riding on the ground.
You put the ball joint nut on, and start tightening it; most likely, it's going to start making the stud on the ball joint spin, and if that happens, you'll see here in a second, you can put a 6mm Allen wrench into the ball joint stud. Hold it; you need to be careful: sometimes as you pull the ball joint stud through, it can interfere with the axle, and you might need to undo the axle nut and push the axle through a little bit in order to get the wrench back out. Make sure you put the wrench on there, and put the second wrench on for some extra leverage, and tighten that nut right up.
Now again, we have the suspension up in the about the same position it's going to be when it rides on the ground; you want to make sure you have it up there, and then torque the bolts for the control arm to 100 foot-pounds, and just make sure that the marks on your washers and everything still line up. Now you can let your jack back down, reinstall the 10mm bolt that holds the wiring harness clip, and use a grease gun to put some grease into the ball joint, and we generally do it until we see the boot between the ball joint and the steering knuckle start to expand. Bring this strut back in: if you look on the top of the strut where the coil spring ends, that goes to the outside, and you put the strut back in, and then lift it up into place, and then you can just start the nuts onto the top. Install all of the lower bolts, and the strut, and tighten them up; you want to tighten them up between 70 and 75 foot-pounds. We speed up as we put the stabilizer link back in place; use a pry bar to lift up on the sway bar a little bit; put the link back in place, put the bolt up through, and then tighten the nut down on top.
The,n put our wheel back on, put the lug nuts back by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily, and with the vehicle back down on the ground and secure, torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern. Tighten up and torque the top three nuts to 75 to 80 foot-pounds, and put that wire clip back in place, and you should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1AAuto. Today I'm going to show you how to install an upper control arm on this 2009 Chevy Suburban. If you need this part or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com. You're going to want to keep in mind whenever you're doing any kind of suspension repair whether you're replacing components or removing and reinstalling components you're going to change your steering angles and you're going to want to go to a local shop and have your alignment performed.
First I'm going to take this center cap off. I'm just going to use a straight blade screwdriver. Get behind this little tab right here, this one right here, slide it off. Now we're going to loosen up the lug nuts. I'm going to take a seven eighth socket and a breaker bar. You can also use a 22 millimeter socket. Loosen these up. Now, I'm going to raise and support the vehicle. I'm using a two post lift. If you're doing this at your house, you can use a jack and jack stands. Going to take the lug nuts off just make sure they're all loose first. Yep they're good. I'll take the last lug nut off, grab the tire, pull it off.
To Take the upper control arm out you don't need to take the straight out but it makes it a lot easier to get these two bolts out because the bolts have to go inward and instead of fighting with them the strut comes out fairly easily. We're going to disconnect the upper strut mount nuts on this vehicle. There is a wiring harness with a retainer right here. Just pull up on that and there's the three nuts up top. If your vehicle happens to have this little connector here you can push on this and pop it off. This vehicle has deleted this option so it's not connected. I'll take a 15 millimeter socket, a swivel extension, and a ratchet. Loosen up these nuts. All right. These lower shock or lower strut bolts are pretty rusty so I'm just going to use a little rust penetrant.
I'm going to take a 18 millimeter wrench, put it on top on the nut, and then a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet on the bottom bolt. Then I'm going to loosen them up. Take those goes out and then I'll take the other one out. It's easier to crack the nut free instead of trying to loosen up on the bolt. Once that's loose then you can loosen the bolt. Pull that bolt out. I'm going to take a pry bar. I'm just going to pry down on the lower control arm. Move this strut inward so that it's off of this little seat right there. Do that and lower this down. Then I can slide the top out. Pull it straight out from the top. I'm going to remove the front axle. Before I take these bolts out I am going to mark the housing where it's located so that when I put it back together it's in the exact same place. I don't know that it necessarily is going to cause any issues I just like to put it back together the way it came apart.
I'm going to use a 15 millimeter socket and a ratchet. I'm going to loosen this up. When I'm loosening this it's spinning so what I'm going to do is take a pry bar from the outside. I'm just going to hold it between the lugs to keep it from spinning. Loosen it up. I'll loosen up the other ones as well. I'm going to take all these bolts out. There's six of them. Once those bolts are out, take the axle and just slide it forward, slip it down. I'm going to loosen up this axle nut. I'm going to take a pry bar and just put it between the lugs right there. And take the axle nut socket, a 36 millimeter, and a breaker bar. I'm going to loosen this up. Be careful when doing this. The axle nut is very tight. All right. Break that loose. I'll take my pry bar and a ratchet socket and I'll just loosen it up and take this nut off. There's a little washer under here or big washer. Take that off as well.
Next, we're going to take a hammer. If this is on really tight when you tap it then you can put the nut back on so that you don't ruin the threads. This axle is not that tight so I'm going to hold the axle with my other hand. Gently tap it so that I can remove the axle just like that and just pull it out of the way. I'm going to remove this ABS harness out of my way. I'm just going to take a trim tool. Just go underneath the retainer, just underneath there, just pry up. Pull that out and then we'll disconnect the electrical connector. This little button right here you can push or if yours is stuck in there a little bit you can release it underneath here with a straight head screwdriver. Push down here. There we go. Disconnect that connector and I'm going to release it right here. Just take the straight blade screwdriver. Disconnect that just like that. Set it aside.
We're going to disconnect this bracket. This holds the brake hose and also this is for the suspension. It's a sensor that senses the suspension height. Let's use a 10 millimeter socket, and extension, and a ratchet. Take that out of this bracket. We'll just come up here, slide it out of the way. You can pop this little ball and socket off if you want but be careful. Generally these little plastic things break so if you just set it out of the way it should be fine.
Next thing I'm going to loosen this upper ball joint nut up. I'm going to use an 18 millimeter wrench. Loosen it up. I'm not going to take it off completely. This would help to have a ratchet wrench at this point. All right. Now this is finger tight. Actually I pulled it off but I'm going to put it back on. Just a couple of threads, it doesn't really matter. It's fine. I'm just going to turn the wheel a little bit.
Now, if you were reusing this upper control arm and ball joint, you might not want to use a pickle fork to release this ball joint. You might want to, there is other types of tools you can do to use to release a ball joint. You can give it a little tap. You've got to be careful when you do this. Just tap on the knuckle and it will release just like that. The reason I leave the nut there is so it all this stuff doesn't come flying so it's easier for me to later go in with a pry bar. Just push down on this and I can take the nut off. And then gently release this.
Okay. At this point just make sure your brake hose doesn't have too much tension on it. It is a good idea if you wanted to put a support underneath this lower control arm, but it's not necessary. So then we're gonna move on to these two bolts. I am going to spray these down with some rust penetrant. They are pretty rusty. Right there and right here. Before we take this upper arm out we want to pay attention to the alignment cams that are on the top.
Now these actually have these plastic little inserts in. They're basically like knockouts. The older vehicles had something called knockouts which you actually had to take and hammer them out. These ones just have these plastic little pieces. So, in the factory when they put this vehicle together, they use those and that aligns this where it needs to be. So if you have those then you're good. If not, you're going to want to take a marker, just make a mark where this little pin is. You can do it on the inside or the outside. And then same on this one as well. And just get it as close as possible when you go to put it back together and then your alignment might be closer which is good. It'll make it easier to drive down the road to go have your alignment performed.
So before I take this out, one more thing I want to keep in mind. When I put the new upper arm in and I tighten down the bolt, I'm going to want this arm to be in this same location because that'll prevent your bushings from wearing out too early. What I do is I take a socket right here. I happen to measure a 13 millimeter socket and it fits in there nicely. So, when I put the new arm in I'm going to put this in this position and put the socket here. So, just check that before. And then I will go and tighten those down. Otherwise what you would have to do is have these bolts in there loosely and then put the vehicle on the ground so that it's at ride level and then torque those two nuts down. Which when the vehicle is down on the ground at ride level it's hard to get a torque wrench in there. So if you do it this way it makes it a lot easier.
Next I want to loosen up this nut and the bolt. I'm going to use a 13/16 wrench on the inside. You can also use a 21, and then a 21 millimeter socket, and a breaker bar on the nut. Loosen it up. It's on there pretty tight. I'm going to loosen up this one. Now that it's loose, I can use a ratchet. I'll just take a hammer, just give the bolt a tap. Tap it inwards. It's sticking a little bit so I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant. Spray it on the outside. I'm just going to take the hammer and just work it back and forth. Just grab a punch and then hammer it through. This cam came off this side so just keep in mind that that is the one that's closer to the driver. Just tap it through. Slide that bolt right out. This bolt actually broke in here so I'm just going to try to take a punch and try to hammer it out a little bit. Excellent.
Take a pry bar or a screwdriver. Take this front cam off. Use a little more rust penetrant. Then I'll take my hammer, just hammer it in. It's frozen pretty good. Take my wrench and just try to work it back and forth. So, our bolt on the front of this upper control arm actually sheared off right here. So, what I have to do is hammer it in. We tried pulling it out and it's not coming out so we're going to have to use an air hammer to get it out. Spray a little rust penetrant there. Let it soak for a little bit.
Just try taking a wrench and just see if I can get it to move a little bit more. If I can spin it then it'll loosen up. It's in there good. I'm just going to tap it back in. Okay. Just take a wrench and hopefully be able to spin it and there it goes. It's loose enough. Take a pry bar and just pry it out. And there's the bolt. I can grab this upper control arm, wiggle it back and forth. If you need a pry bar get underneath and pry it out. Make sure you watch out for this sensor keep that out of the way. There you go. Pull it out.
Here's the old upper control arm. Here's our new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com. As you can see the shape is the same. The ball joint itself looks a little bigger which is going to make it last a lot longer. Flip it over. It comes with new bushings. It comes with a new nut. Take this nut off. There's a little cover on here. That's just for shipping so you want to take that off. It comes with a cotter pin and a grease fitting. It's greasable which makes it last longer. Get yours at 1AAuto.com. And you'd be ready to rock and roll.
So, we need to swap this cam off this bolt from the old one to the new one. But where we were hammering on the end it's mushroomed out a little bit so it's not going to come off of there. So, what I'm going to do is take a die grinder and I'm just going to sand this down a little bit. Slide that off. Now we can transfer that to our new bolt. Now we can reinstall this. I'm just going to take a wire brush just because I got a lot of rust penetrant in here and I don't want that to cause my upper control arm to move. So, I'll just use a wire brush, clean this up a little bit. Take some brake parts cleaner. Clean that off. Do this side as well. All right. So now we're going to take the upper control arm, try to get it in position, take the new bolts, I'll get that in position. See if you had the strut in here at this time it would be a little bit tricky to get these in and out.
I'll take this cam on the back side and try to line that plastic up with that little tab just like that. Put the new nut on this side. We'll take the front cam and just slide that in position. Line that up with the plastic. Put the nut on. All right. Now we're going to position the upper control arm where we took it off. We're going to use the socket that we used before to measure the distance so that's at the height that we want to torque it down at. What you could also do is put it all together, put the wheel on, and then torque it with the wheel on. It's a little bit trickier to do it that way so let's just do it with the socket to hold it there. I'm going to use a 21 millimeter wrench, and a 21 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. I'm just going to snug these up first. You can also use a 13/16.
Then I'll take a torque wrench with my 21 and I'm going to torque these to 140 foot pounds. The same with the front one. Now we can remove our socket. At this point we can install the knuckle, just get it lined up, then use a pry bar. Pry down on the upper control arm. Then I'll take the castle nut that it comes with. Get that started. While I'm praying down on that put the nut up there and I'll take an 18 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Get that snug.
Now I'm going to torque this nut to 37 foot pounds. The new ball joint comes with a new cotter pin and you have to line it up with the hole in this stud and after you torque the nut if it doesn't line up, you can tighten it up a little bit more to get it to line up a little bit more. Take the cotter pin, put it through the hole. Then I'll take some straight cutters. I'm just going to bend the cotter pin down. Just like that. I'm going to trim off the excess, then trim it up off up top as well. You're all set.
Then I'll take the grease fitting that it comes with. Get that started. Just take a seven millimeter wrench or a seven millimeter socket. Just snug it up. Not too tight. You don't want it to break. Next, I'm going to get this bracket lined up. Take the 10 millimeter bolt. Get that started. Take a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Just snug this up. Then we can reposition the ABS wiring harness. Get that positioned there then lock it down in place. Connect the connector, lock it in place, and then we position it.
At this point we can grease the fittings. Just take a grease gun, position that on the grease fitting, and give it a couple of pumps. I normally look to see the boot expand a little bit. You don't want to put too much grease in. That's pretty good right there. Now we're going to install the strut. Just slide this in. And then slide it up and you're going to align the studs up up top. And I grabbed a nut and I'm just going to get one of the nuts started. We'll use a pry bar, pry in on the spring side. This actually is a little easier if you have the sway bar link out, get that in position. I'm going to pry it back into place just like that. Now I am going to take these strut bolts, get these lined up. If they don't line up with the holes you can take a screwdriver. Try To get this to line up first. Get the bolt through, put the nut on top. Same with this side.
We'll take a 18 millimeter wrench, and a 15 millimeter socket, and a ratchet. Tighten these bolts up. Now I'm going to torque these to 37 foot pounds. Then I'll take the other nuts and get those started up top. Then I'll take a 15 millimeter socket, and a ratchet, and just snug these up. And then I'm going to torque them. Now I'm going to get a torque wrench and torque these to 37 foot pounds. We're going to push this wire retainer onto one of those studs. And then if you have this connector you're going to connect that to the top of the strut.
Now we're going to send the axle back into position. Slide it up from underneath. Slide it into the the wheel bearing. You might have to twist it a little bit. Then we're gonna take this flange and just bend it out a little bit. Slide that in position. Going to try to line this up with how I took it out, the marks that I made. Take these bolts, get these started. Now I'm going to start to tighten these up and use a 15 millimeter socket and a ratchet. What I'm going to do is just snug this side up then I'm going to spin the axle and tighten the opposite side. Snug that one up. Going to go around the rest of the axle. Tighten these up.
I'm going to use a pry bar to hold the axle from spinning. Just put it on the lugs up up front and then I'm going to tighten these down to 58 foot pounds. I'm going to do this the same way. So I just torqued that one down. I'm going to spin it to the complete opposite side. Torque this one down so it gets tightened down evenly. Then I'll just go around and tighten them all down. It's good. Then I'll take the washer, put that on the axle, and then the nut, the axle on. Then I'll take a 36 millimeter socket and a ratchet and just snug this down. Now I can lower this vehicle down and put the prime bar on the ground. I'm just going to do it by hand. Hold it. Just be careful. I'm going to torque this to 177 foot pounds.
Now I'll take the tire and put the tire back on, put the lug nuts back on. Now I'm going to use a torque wrench a seven eighth socket. You could also use a 22 millimeter socket. And I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds. We're going to do this in a cross pattern that will tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again and double check. Then we're going to install the center cap on the back side of the center cap. It shows where the valve stem is so you're going to line that up with where the valve stem goes and push it back on.
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