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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a full solid rear backing plate on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's pretty much the same for the Suburbans from 2002 to 2006, as well as the Tahoes and Yukons. The procedure is the same from left to right, in fact you'll see that we do some procedures on one side and other procedures on the other side. The items you'll need for this include a new rear backing plate from 1A Auto and this assortment of tools.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Now, remove these two 12mm bolts, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. To loosen up your rotor either use a C-clamp to squeeze it or a screwdriver through the middle of it and pry between the caliper and the brake disc that loosens up the caliper so it comes off easier. Now, pry out the brake pads. Now, remove these two 18mm bolts using a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll just fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Now, pull your caliper bracket off, and pull the rotor off.
On the differential cover, there are either 10 to 12 bolts, and ours are pretty rusty so we use a cold chisel to knock the rust off of each side. These should be 13mm bolts if they're in good shape. We actually end up using a half inch socket because the rust has reduced their size just a little bit. You'll see later, we pound a half inch socket on there and are able to get them all off. We'll just fast forward here as Mike removes that bolt the rest of the way. Then he's just going to repeat the procedure on each of those other bolts all the way around the differential cover. For the higher ones, it does get a little more difficult and you will need an extension for your socket and ratchet to actually remove those bolts. Make sure you have a drip pan below the differential cover before you remove the last of the bottom bolts. You just want to remove those. Now, using your chisel, just hammer out on the bottom of the differential cover. Then replace the bolt at the top of the differential cover. Then use your chisel and hammer again on the other side and just let the fluid drain out. After it's drained for awhile, just pry out on the bottom and then remove that bolt and pull the cover down and out.
Now, if any debris falls down inside of here, as you can see right there, you just want to vacuum all of it out. Then take a rag, make sure it's somewhat clean, and just wipe everything down and stick the rag back in there. Then, using a razor blade, just cut off that old gasket along the outside. Use a wire brush to get any leftover residue of the gasket
For the next step, you'll probably want to put the vehicle in neutral. Rotate the drive shaft until you can see this 8mm bolt, put the vehicle back in park, and then you use an 8mm wrench to remove that bolt. Then remove the bolt, and then there is a pin that runs through the middle of the rear end there. Push it in a little bit just to get it going, and then push it out from the other side, remove it, that pin allows the axles to go in so push the axles in. Then you'll rotate your rear gear set again so you can see into the rear end and you see here there's a clip on the end of the rear end, you push the axle in and then you use a stick magnet to get that C-clip out. Then once that C-clip's removed, you can pull your axle right out.
There are clips that hold the emergency brake into the bracket. Using screwdrivers push one up onto the clip and push one down on the clip, and then release those clips. Then you can pull it out and slide it to the side. Then disconnect it. Then you just want to pry up on your brake shoes. Then pry out and then just pull them free. Then just remove these four bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this. Now you can pull the old backing plate away. You just want to wipe down the area here with a wire brush to clean it up. As you can tell, on the left is the new backing plate from 1A Auto and on the right is what remains of the original backing plate. No mystery as to why we're replacing them. Actually, I realized right after I forgot to do it here, that there's a rubber boot that you put on around the arm, and then install your emergency brake actuator into the backing plate, then onto the axle, and then replace and tighten up those four bolts. Now, torque these 90 foot-pounds.
To reconnect the emergency brake cable, first connect it into the lever on the emergency brake actuator, and then you want to separate or pull the spring back until you can see a little bit of the cable. Run the cable through the bracket, and then once you get the cable through the bracket force the housing of the cable into the bracket. Then, reinstall your shoes just by spreading them apart a little bit. Getting them onto the backing plate, hook them into the hook that's at the top or the bottom and then get them on their actuators.
Reinstall your axle and you want to be careful not to damage the seal so lift up as you're sliding the axle in so that you don't damage the axle seal, and then once you get it most of the way in, you'll feel it hit the inner workings of the axle. You just got to move it up and down and twist it at the same time to get it in. Once it goes in, it goes in fairly easily. Make sure the axle is pushed all the way in, and then reinstall the C-clip on the end of the axle. Then, with the vehicle in neutral, you'll want to turn the gear set so that you can get the pin back in. Pull the axle out, make sure that everything is lined up through that hole, and reinstall the retaining pin for the axles. The hole needs to be on the bottom obviously. Then once you have that in then put that 8mm bolt back in and tighten it up.
Here you can see we're using a new differential cover. This differential cover came with a gasket, so I'm just putting a very light bead of RTV on it. Obviously, if you're using your old cover, just follow the directions on the RTV or whatever gasket you might use. Put it up into place, put the top bolt through and start the top bolt in. We'll fast forward here as we just start the rest of the bolts in. Make sure you put your brake line clip in place, and what we do is we just firmly tighten each of the bolts, let the RTV set up, and then torque the bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Now, remove this filler plug, using your 3/8 ratchet and ours is in rough condition so we're just going to hammer the ratchet in place. Then just remove that plug. Now, replace the differential fluid and you just want to do this until it starts to pour over the side. Once it starts to pour over the side, you can just put your pinky in there, make sure that the fluid's right to the top of filler hole, and if it is, then you're all set and you can replace your cap. Just tighten it up with your ratchet and you're all set.
If you're reusing your old router, you want to make sure that you scrap any rust scale from the inner edge of the braking surface, as well as from the edge of the emergency brake surface. If you don't do this, it's a good bet that some of this scale will hit against the new backing plate and make a squeaking noise. Usually the squeaking noise will go away over time, even if you get a little squeaking from the new backing plates. You can see here, we're using new routers, also available at 1AAuto.com. Install the router, and we put a lug nut on there just to hold it in place while we put the rest of the brakes together. Then put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds. Push your brake pads back into place. Then put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back in place. Then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Now, you want to torque each of the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds, and it is going to take awhile. Then reduce them to 100 foot-pounds. Then replace that hub cap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers. Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
I'm gonna start by taking the wheel off. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket, take off all the lug nuts and take the wheel off. Now, we can take these caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket, loosen those up. And if the caliper slide is spinning, you can use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold it while you take the bolt out. Then you can grab the caliper. You might wanna rock it back and forth a little bit, that'll compress the piston a little. Make it easier to slide off. Then you can use a brake caliper hanger and just hang it from the upper control arm or you can hang it from the coil spring just like that. Just make sure there's not any tension on the brake hose itself. Now, take the brake pads off. Just slide them out of the way.
Now, we're gonna take the bracket off. you need to take these two bolts out. Use an 18-millimeter socket, loosen these up and then grab the bracket and just slide it off. Now, we're gonna take the rotor off. Just grab it and slide it. If it's stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these locations. It's stuck on the parking brake a little bit. Just try to wiggle. You can just take a pry bar, try to pry in here a little bit to get this off. I'm just gonna take two screwdrivers, just try to wiggle this back and forth. There we go. Slides right off. Now, I took all the breaks off for this side, I did the same on the other side. Now, to access the cover, I'm gonna pull this bar out of the way. I'm gonna use a 13/16 wrench or a 21-millimeter wrench. On the backside, there's a nut on the other side of this bolt, and take that bolt out. Use a 21-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna use a bungee cord and just pull this out of the way.
Now, it's always a good idea before you take the cover off to take the fill plug out. Otherwise, if you can't get the fill plug out, then you won't be able to add fluid to it after you're done. So, just use a 3/8 extension and a ratchet. There we go. Now, some of these cover bolts are pretty rusted, so I'm just gonna take a wire brush, just try to clean up some of the rust. All right. Now, I'm gonna take the cover off. I'm gonna use a 13-millimeter socket, take all these bolts off. Now, I'm gonna leave the top one in a little bit. Just leave it loose and then I'll pry the cover off. This one has the brake bracket right here, brake hose bracket or brake lines. Move it out of the way. Just be careful. If this looks really rusty, be more careful with it. I'll just loosen this one up. I'll just leave it like that. Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath before you start taking those bolts out. And then just get a screwdriver or a pry bar, just get underneath the cover and just slowly pull it back. Let the fluid drain.
And once that's loose, you can take the bolt off and just slide the cover up. There you go. You need to put the transmission in neutral and rotate the driveshaft so that this bolt ends up right here because we're gonna take that pin off. Now, we're gonna take this bolt out, which actually has a pin that goes through there, and I'm gonna use an 8-millimeter socket. You can try to use a wrench. Sometimes it's not so easy. And just take that off, loosen that up. I'm gonna slide this out. You're gonna have to go around the carrier and then try to push on the pin and slide this out. Now, I'm gonna carefully rotate the driveshaft again. Just make sure the gears aren't turning because you don't want them to fall out. That looks okay. Now, I need to hit the axle. Use a rubber mallet or a dead blow. Just tap it in. What you're looking for is there's a clip in there, and you need to be able to access that clip. Right now I can't get to it, so we're gonna tap this in more.
All right. So, now the C-clip is out far enough that I should be able to grab it with a magnet. Just use a magnet and grab it. You might have to rotate it a little bit. Slide it out like that. Now, I can use a pry bar and just pry the axle out. Be careful. Just pry right where the parking brake mechanism is right there. Once you pry out that far, then it should be easier to pull it out. There is a reluctor wheel in there that it presses on to and it just drops down once you pull that out. Slide the axle out. So, when you're replacing the dust shields, it's always a good idea to replace the seal, the axle seal, especially when you take it out, put it back in, otherwise, you may cause a leak. Now, I'm gonna take this parking brake shoe off. You're gonna take these adapters off and take these two little bolts out. Use an 8-millimeter socket. Take these hold-downs off. Take those off. We can grab the parking brake shoe and just slide it out, then slide it off.
Now, I need to take this bracket off right here. There's a little pin in here, so just make sure you take that off. This is what activates the parking brake, and the adjuster side, take that off just so you don't lose them. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, take these bolts out. All right. Now, you wanna take this whole assembly off. If it doesn't come off, just take a hammer, give it a tap from the backside and slide it down. Now, we're gonna take this part of the cable off. There's a lever right here, you just have to pull it out a little bit just like that. Then we can pull the spring down. And then there should be two teeth on the end of this, it shouldn't come off that easy. If you take some pliers, there should be two teeth right here that you got to squeeze. You just use some pliers. All right. Now, just take this shield off the bracket. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. And there's two tabs, so you wanna pry right here and here. And you should be able to slide this out just like that. Then there's that rubber grommet right there. So, you get a new one. Just try to put it on the same way the old one came off. And if this is excessively rusty, you can use a wire brush to take some of the rust off. This one is not too bad. Just line this up just like that. Make sure the grommet looks good. You can fold these tabs over a little bit. It's hard to fold them over with this on the ground. You can use a screwdriver just like that. There we go.
Now, I'll just pull back on the spring a little bit, slide the cable through. It should lock in place. And then take this mechanism, the lever, slide it through the rubber grommet and it's got to sit in there Like that. So, that's almost flat up against the shield. Now, I'm just gonna use a wire brush just to clean some of this up. Great. Looks good. Now, you can take the shield and bracket. And there is an arrow pointing to the front of the car. And the other bracket on the opposite side has the same arrow, but it's upside down on the other side. I'm gonna take the bolts, get the bolts started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 100 foot-pounds. Then if these tabs if you didn't bang them down far enough, just take a chisel or a punch and just tap them down a little more so they don't rub. Looks good. Then you can take this adjuster for the parking brake, slide that in. I'm just gonna use a little bit of brake grease on this side and put a little brake grease on the pin as well. Slide that one in.
All right. So, that looks pretty good. If this doesn't seem like it's all the way down, you can grab the arm on the backside and try to wiggle that to try to get that to work right. And if you have new parking brake shoes, now is a good time to put them on. If not, just reuse your old ones. And just slide this on the adjuster. It is slotted, and you can rotate it up and then put the brackets on and the bolts and the other bracket. Then snug those bolts up and slide the axle in. And then you're gonna have to tip it up a little bit just to get it. And you don't wanna twist it too much because then you're gonna mess up the spider gears. And I'm gonna have to give it a couple more taps so that I can get the C-clip in. Looks good. And just take the clip, slide it in position. Once it's all the way in, then just slide the axle up. Then you can do the same procedure on the other side. And after you've done that, then let's rotate the axle...rotate the driveshaft, I mean, and get the pin lined up. And you may have to move the bearings a little bit. I mean the spider gears. Just make sure the hole is lined up with where the bolts goes. There we go. You can give it a little tap with something soft and slide the pin back in, the pin bolt and tighten that up.
Now, I'm gonna torque this bolt to 27 foot-pounds. This vehicle has 8.6 rear end. If you have a 9.5 rear end, you're gonna torque that to 37 foot-pounds. At this point, you can put the vehicle back in park. At this point, I can use a scraper or even a razor blade. Just be careful if you're using a razor blade, and just scrape off any excess gasket material. Now, I'm gonna use a little brake parts cleaner and just wipe this down. Just try not to spray directly into the gear. Now, I can take the gasket and just line that in position. Then take the cover. Try to go over the gear. There you go. Just twist it a little bit. You don't have to take the sway bar links out, but you could if you're struggling with that and just line this all up and get the bolts started. And now I can move this brake hose bracket down and brake lines and get that bolt through. I'm just gonna snug these down before I torque them down. Now, I'm gonna torque this to 30 foot-pounds. And make sure you torque it in a cross pattern. So, we'll torque this one and then just go crisscross. All right. That's all in. If you're not gonna use this fill plug to fill up the rear differential, you can use a 10-millimeter hex socket and tighten that up. Just make sure it's snug.
Now, just hook this up and torque this to 77 foot-pounds. With the fill plug out, I'm going to add the limited slip additive first. It's always a good idea to add it and do that first before you add the gear oil. Then add the proper gear oil. You can check your owner's manual. You can use a hose to get the fluid into the rear diff. All right. Now, as you're filling this up, if you notice that it starts coming out the fill plug, then that's up to the ideal level. Certain vehicles, it doesn't have to go all the way to the fill plug, you wanna check your owner's manual and put the appropriate amount of fluid in. Now, put the fill plug in and snug this up not too tight. Once it starts getting a little snugger, just a little bit more. Looks good. Take a little break parts cleaner and clean it off.
Now, take the caliper bracket and line it back up. Brake caliper bolts, get those started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122 foot-pounds. Now, I'm gonna put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicators are gonna go to the top. So, on the inboard pad goes at the top and same with the outboard pad. Just slide them in position. That's good. Now, we're gonna take the brake caliper off the hook and just slide it over the brake pads. Put the caliper bolts in. Take a 17-millimeter wrench and torque this bolt to 30 foot-pounds. Do the same on the top. All right. Put the wheel on. I'm gonna put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around and double-check.
Tools used
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Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
If your vehicle isn't listed, search Brake Backing Plates & Dust Shields