2007 GMC Yukon XL 1500 with Rear Disc Brakes Rear Brake Rotor Backing Plate Dorman OE Solutions 924-213

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear wheel backing plate on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but it's the same procedure on the driver's side. The items you'll need is new rear wheel backing plate from 1AAuto.com; an 8mm, 12mm, 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; an 18mm wrench; hammer; a flat blade screwdriver; large C-clamp; torque wrench; jack and jack stands; and locking pliers.

Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers, and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. You want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Unless you have air-powered tools. Then, you can do while it's up in the air.

Then, to inspect your brakes, just run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves, look in here for the life of this brake pad and then through here for the life of the other brake pad.

Remove these two 12mm bolts, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. In order to get the caliper off, you can either use a C-clamp like this and press in on the caliper and loosen it, or you can also use a screwdriver and pry out between the caliper and the brake disk to reset the piston, make it easier to get it off. Pull the caliper free and set it aside.

Pry out the brake pads. Remove these two 18mm bolts, and just use a piece of pipe to help break it free and we'll just fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Pull your caliper bracket off, and pull the rotor off.

There should be a bracket underneath here, held in with an 8mm bolt. So, you'd want to remove that next. Ours is missing. After that, you can pull your e-brake shoes forward and then hit them down. You just want to pull it over the hub. Pull out on your emergency brake cable and just pull it from the bracket and then unhook it.

You want to remove these four 18mm bolts and you can only really use a wrench back here. Just use an 18mm wrench and then another wrench just for some extra leverage to help break them free. We'll just forward as Don removes those four bolts. Hit the back of your backing plate with a hammer and this will help you pull this first front apart for your e-brake forward. Depending on the condition of your backing plate, you can either chisel it off with a screwdriver and a hammer and just break it into pieces and pull it off or you can use wire cutters and just snip at it until you can pull it off. As long as it's rusted like this, it shouldn't be too hard to get it off. We'll fast forward as Don just breaks that apart and do as we say, not as we do: make sure you're wearing gloves, so you don't end up cutting your hands on the rusty metal.

On the right, used to be our old backing plate. On the left, is the new one from 1A Auto and you can see, it's a two-piece one that will make it easier and quicker to install. Take your backing plate and you want to clip the slot on the side over your e-brake assembly and slide the whole backing plate up and push it back. Take the top part and just slide it on to those tabs. Slide the whole assembly back. Then, take this rubber cap and feed it up in between the e-brake assembly and your backing plate. Just push it into place and then replace those four 18mm bolts. Again, we'll just fast forward as Don does this.

Pull out this cap on your e-brake adjuster and push this rod back in behind the backing plate and then push the cap back into place. Clip in your emergency brake cable into that rod and then, we recommend two people for this part. What you want to do is lock on to the spring with locking pliers and pull it forward and have another person pull the e-brake cable back into that bracket. Now, just replace that bracket in the 8mm bolt. Then, we'll fast forward as Don does this. Now, take your e-brake shoes and put them back over the hub, and then, line up the e-brake shoe tabs into the adjuster. Once you get one of them, just use a screwdriver to pry the other end in. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer if you need it, to just turn the adjuster, so that when you go to put the rotor on, there's just a little bit of resistance.

Slide your new rotor into place and then twist on the lug nut to just hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds.

Push your brake pads back into place and then put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up and you want to tighten this to about 30 foot-pounds.

Put your wheel back into place and then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace that hub cap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers. Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then to a stopping test from five miles per hour then ten miles per hour then you're all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.