Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace your E-brake shoes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new emergency brake shoes from 1Aauto.com; 8, 12, 18, and 22 mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage; flat blade screw driver; large C-clamp; torque wrench; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
Then, to inspect your brakes, just run your finger along the rotor, and check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad, and then through here for the life of the other brake pad.
Now, remove these two 12 mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You just put it on this end on the back of the caliper, and on this brake pad and just twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Now, remove the large C-clamp. Pull the caliper free and set it aside. Now, pry out the brake pads.
Now remove these two 18 mm bolts. Just use a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll just fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Now pull your caliper bracket off. Pull the rotor off.
There should be a bracket underneath here held in with an 8mm bolt. So, you'd want to remove that next. Ours is missing. After that, you can pull your E-brake shoes forward, and then hit them down. Now you just want to pull it over the hub. You do have to angle it just right to get it over.
Now, before you install your new E-brake shoes, make sure you put this new bracket into place. The E brake shoes from 1Aauto do come with this bracket. Just replace that 8mm bolt and tighten it up. Put your new E-Brake shoes on. Now you want to just put these two tabs on the ends of the shoes into these two slots, one on either side of the adjuster here. Once you get one side into the slot, just use a flat blade screw driver to pry the other side. Once it's lined up, you can just use your flat blade screw driver to just turn this adjuster. If it's a little stiff, just use a hammer. Just adjust it so that when you put your rotor on there's just a little bit of resistance.
Slide your new rotor into place. Then twist on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Then put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds.
Push your brake pads back into place. Then, put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. Now we'll just fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place. Then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace that hub cap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers.
Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, and then 10 miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 12, 18, and 22 mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; large C-clamp; torque wrench; brake grease; brake cleaner; and jack and jack stands. Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. You want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad and then through here for the life of the other brake pad. Remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry up the brake pads.
Remove these two 18mm bolts and use a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Pull your caliper bracket off. Pull the rotor off.
On the right is the old rotor and brake pads. On the left are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Spray your rotor with some brake cleaner and wipe it down. Re-grease your caliper slides and apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.
Slide your new rotor into place and then twist on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds.
To reset your caliper pistons, you want to put a brake pad in front of the pistons and twist the large C-clamp until it pushes the pistons in. Push your brake pads back into place and put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place, and then, replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then, replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers.
Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour, and then ten miles per hour and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, 12 and 22 mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad, and then, through here for the life of the other brake pad.
Now, remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and just twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry out the brake pads.
Take your new brake pads and apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. You want to reset the pistons in your caliper so put an old brake pad in there and just twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons back in. Push your new brake pads into place, and then, put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12 mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place and then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers. Before taking the vehicle out on the road you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
