Kit Includes: (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Upper Ball Joints (1) Idler Arm (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
with Stamped Steel Lower Control Arms
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Idler Arm Bracket Assembly 1995-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How To Replace Radiator Cooling Fan 1996-2007 Ford Taurus
How to Replace Pitman Arm 1995-2000 Chevy Tahoe PART 1
How To Replace Radiator Cooling Fan 1996-2007 Ford Taurus
Created on:
Tools used
24mm Socket
Large C-Clamp
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Tie Rod Fork
15mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Grease Gun
Tie Rod Puller
Ratchet
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
22mm Socket
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts.
Raise and secure the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
2. Remove the front shield
Use a 15 mm socket and ratchet.
Remove the four bolts.
3. Remove the Idler Arm
Remove the 24 mm bolt securing the idler arm to the steering linkage
Use a joint fork and a hammer to separate the joint.
Remove the three other bolts securing the idler arm.
Use a Tie Rod Puller to pull apart the idler arm and the idler shaft.
4. Install the new idler arm
Assemble your new idler arm to your idler shaft, threading on the bushing and nut.
Bolt in the idler arm assembly into place, tightening up the three nuts.
Bolt in the end of the idler arm assembly to the steering gear.
Torque the nuts and bolts to 80 ft lbs.
Install the cotter pin.
Use a grease gun and fill the grease fitting.
5. Reassembly
Replace the shield with the four 15mm bolts.
Clip the air bag harness back in.
Put the wheel back on and lower the car
Using a star pattern torque the lug nuts to 120-140 ft lbs
Brought to you by 1A Auto. com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best source on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto dot com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the idler arm on this '96 Tahoe. This is a full drive truck so it's the same as any '98, or '88 to '98 GM truck and '92 to 2000 SUV. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, joint fork and hammer, a tie rod or an idler arm puller, a torque wrench, telescoping magnet and an 18 millimeter wrench.
First, using a 19 millimeter wrench or your tire iron, remove your front. Using a 15 millimeter wrench, remove this front shield. Then, we're zooming in here and this is a 24 millimeter bolt that holds the idler arm on to the steering linkage. We're going to use a joint fork, we're just going to put that right in between the joint where the idler arm and the steering linkage is, zoom out here and then, just use a good-sized hammer and just force that fork right between the joint and separate that joint. The idler arm assembly is held on by three bolts. You can see the backside of them there. You get to them through the frame through access holes right there. You can see my wrench is through one and then the other two are right near them.
We'll speed up going through and removing those three bolts. Note have a telescoping magnet available for when you drop those bolts into the frame as I do a couple of times. What I'm doing here is pulling the idler assembly away from the frame, and at the same time with the other hand, pushing the idler arm up and away from the steering linkage, or actually pulling the steering linkage down. Eventually it comes loose enough and comes right out. This is a 24 millimeter. You want to use this puller and this is a rubber gasket here, pretty much just have to force it into your puller, pull that right off. My new one; right back into place.
The trouble you run into is when you try to put this back together, right back and these two go to the back when you try and put this back together, this is a lock nut and wind up turning the shaft. What I'm doing, I got a big old bolt from another project. I put that on there and what happens this will go in enough and when I hit that other nut, it'll start pressing this on to the shaft. Then, I can use the arm itself to pull the shaft. I put my lock nut back on. Using a magnet, I took out my other two bolts so I have that top one in. I'm going to use an extension and hold that bolt in place, assembly up in here and hang in on that bolt.
I will put the nut up on that bolt and then basically repeat the step for the two bolts, put them right in to my extension with my socket, feed them through. See the bolt come through, put it on to the assembly and put the nut back on and then same thing with the third one. Feed it through, see the back of my head and then, put the nut on. Before I tighten those up, I'll turn my attention over to the steering gear. Here I pull the steering gear down and on to the joint for the idler arm and then just put the nut on hand tight. Now we'll go back to tightening up those three bolts. You want to use torque wrench and tighten them up to 80-foot pounds. This 22 millimeters and tighten these up to 80-foot pounds as well. Just a little tighter so we can fit that cotter pin through.
We'll put a grease gun in there and make sure we hit that grease footing to get it properly lubed up. Put your shield back on real quick with the four 15-millimeter bolts. Over here, we're just going to put that little pin back into the harness that was holding our airbag sensor there. We'll speed up putting the tire back on. Put on the lug nuts, tighten them a little bit, then lower the car down and torque them to about a hundred twenty to a hundred forty foot-pounds and then put your cap back on.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Flat Blade Screwdriver
8mm Wrench
8mm Socket
Ratchet
1. disconnect the battery
Use your 8 mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Remove the radiator cooling fan shroud
Pry up the fuse box and move it out of the way.
Remove the 8 mm bolt securing the fan shroud.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the radiator fan and un-clip the wiring from the back of the shroud.
Remove the fan.
Repeat with the second radiator fan.
3. Install the new radiator fans.
Put the fans down into the engine bay next to the radiator.
Bolt the fans into place.
Reconnect the electrical harnesses and clip them back onto the shroud.
Clip the fuse box back into place.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to remove and reinstall the radiator fans in this 2001 Ford Taurus. The fans didn't need repaired in this car. I'm just doing the video to show you how to take them out and put them in. The only tools you'll need are an 8mm socket and ratchet and a flat blade screwdriver. We're going to disconnect the battery here using an 8mm socket. You'll want to use a regular screwdriver. There is two tabs, you'll want to pull out on the tab, and pull up on this fuse box. This will just go up and out of the way a little bit. You'll see there is an 8mm bolt right here. You can see right down there is a plug for your radiator fan. All you're going to do is pry out lightly here and pull that plug off. You want to pull these pins. You can see here's one of the pins out. Pull these pins out of the fan shroud. Okay. We'll kind of speed through that process of unplugging the fan and removing the harnesses from the clips, and then finish out removing the 8mm bolt. Get this up out of the way. Pull this fan up. That just comes out of the bottom. Lift it out.
With this fan I've done the same thing. I already loosened this bolt. I've already unplugged it. I'm just going to take that bolt off. I'm going to pull it out. Then I'm going to slide over to where this other fan came from. It's going to be a fight with all the wiring. Slide it up and out. Slide this on over. It has two feet that have basically a cross pattern on it. If you look down in you can see right there, that cross right there, that's where one of the feets goes. Then that cross right down there is where the other one goes. You put the fans down in, and you kind of just work them back and forth a little bit. You find where they go down in, and then that 8mm bolt lines up. Then tighten up that bolt. Tighten up this 8mm bolt. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the fan. Make sure everything's routed correctly. Put the fuse block back into place, reconnect the battery, and you should be all set. The second fan, slide it down in, just pull the wiring out the way kind of. The same thing on the feet. This goes down in here into place. Tighten up your 8mm bolt. This back into place now, and then the pins connect them. Put the harnesses back into their places. Connect the battery one more time. You should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Hammer
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
18mm Wrench
Jack Stands
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Pitman Arm Puller
34mm Socket
Drain Pan
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Assistant
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
11mm Socket
1. Diagnosis
To check to see if you have a bad pitman arm, jack up your car and secure it.
Move your wheel and if there is play in your pitman arm and joint.
2. Remove the skid plate
Unbolt the four 15 mm bolts.
Remove the kid plate and set aside.
3. Prepare the steering box to access the pitman arm
Unclip and move aside the plastic shield.
Spray the two fittings and the bolt with penetrating oil.
Loosen the power steering coupling bolt.
Use a fitting wrench to remove the two fittings and an 11 mm socket and ratchet and extension to remove the bolt.
Have a helper hold the steering wheel for you while you do this to make it easier.
Use a pry bar to move the steering shaft from the steering box.
4. Remove the steering box and pitman arm
Use a 21 mm bolt to remove the bolt mounting the pitman arm.
Use a joint fork and a hammer to separate the joint.
Remove the three bolts securing the steering box and remove the steering box completely to remove the pitman arm.
Put the steering box and pit man arm in an oil pan.
Use an impact wrench or a large breaker bar as well as a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering arm.
5. For reinstallation please see part 2
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to install a new Pitman arm on this 1996 Tahoe. It is the same as any 1988 to 1998 Chevy truck. This is a four-wheel drive vehicle. So four wheel drive trucks and also 1992 to 1999 SUVs, four-wheel drives.
You will need the following tools: penetrating oil, a whole host of mm sockets, 18-mm fitting wrench, joint fork and hammer Pitman arm puller and actually not listed here was a 19-mm socket and ratchet or your tire iron to remove your tire. You'll also need a jack and jack stand or lift.
To check and see if you have a bad Pitman arm you can see where this front driver's side tire we're going up and under. Here's your transfer to here and then up right there is the joint of your Pitman arm. This here is your Pitman arm and then this is your steering linkage. Again, here is your Pitman arm. Here's your steering linkage. Now when you move your tires, I'm just grabbing hold of the tires and kind of turning them back and forth when the car is above the ground and you can see there is a lot of play and movement going on around that Pitman arm. That joint is bad.
First, you'll want to remove this skid plate which is four 15-mm bolts. You can see two easy here, and there's one up here and one you cannot really see, but over here. Now we're going to remove the steering box to get to the Pitman arm. Okay. So, this is the driver's side of the engine compartment. There's the power break booster and this right down here is your steering box. It's a little difficult to see. It's where you can see these tubes going in. There is a plastic shield here. It kind of clips around. Now you can see this was clipped up and around here. You just kind of peel that off and pull this plastic shield back and now you're going to want to use some penetrating oil and douse both your fittings, one here and then one a little further up. It's kind of difficult to see.
There are two fittings to douse with penetrating oil and then there's also a bolt. You might be able to barely see there and then you also want to loosen this bolt here and that loosens the coupler from the steering box shaft. The best tool for removing those power steering fittings is a fitting wrench like this, 18 mm. See it down on there? I got it on there and then once you loosen it with a fitting wrench you can usually get an open-end wrench on there to help you navigate it the rest of the way.
Then, make sure you have a catch pan underneath to catch the fluid as it starts leaking out. Now we're going to use an 11-mm socket and ratchet and extension to loosen that bolt. Down in there put the socket and ratchet on there. At this point it might be good to have someone help you just hold the steering wheel so it keeps that from turning at all. Once you remove the bolt then you want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and put it down in there and just make sure that you can move the steering shaft away from the steering box and if you watch you can see that the shaft is moving from the steering box pretty easily. When I actually unbolt the steering box I'll be able to pull it right out.
No from underneath here's the front of our transfer case on this four-wheel drive truck and this is our Pitman arm joint right here. So, it's a 21-mm bolt. I'll use an impact wrench. As you can see we removed the tire over here and this is a joint fork. So, we're going to bring it in from the side here and then use a good hammer. Basically we just removed the tire so we can get a good wrap on this fork. Okay. You see that fork just separates that joint. Now we get to the three bolts that hold your steering box on and I just used a little screwdriver kind of bend this fender up a little bit because it was in the way and you can just tap it back down with a hammer when you're done. Then you can easily get a socket and extension on there, and just to show you it can be done with hand tools, again, 21-mm. I'll just do the rest of it with an impact wrench just to be quicker.
Hold on to the box with one hand. If not it's just going to fall out. Move it up and out of the steering gear and pull it forward from the shaft. Here's the bottom of it. Put the steering box here, upside down, once again just so any more fluids just drain out into the pan. Here's where having an impact wrench is going to be really valuable. Then this socket is a 34 mm. If you don't have an impact you can just turn it on all the way and then use a large bar. You may want someone to help hold it. You could bolt your steering box onto a longer piece of wood which would help you to keep it steady, but having an impact wrench is the best way. Now, you're going to want to use your Pitman arm puller. This is really the only way to do this.
Believe it or not I actually forgot to film, or I messed up and I didn't film pulling the Pitman arm off so I'm just going to show you how to use the Pitman arm puller and the tool on to the idler arm. It's the same idea. You would just be doing it on the steering box. Put the tool on like that and then put your wrench on there and then pull and it breaks it right free. Okay, and this ends part one of this video. If you want to see, obviously, reinstalling the Pitman arm go please to part two.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Feel free to call us toll free, 888-844 3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person. Thank you.
Tools used
Flat Blade Screwdriver
8mm Wrench
8mm Socket
Ratchet
1. disconnect the battery
Use your 8 mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Remove the radiator cooling fan shroud
Pry up the fuse box and move it out of the way.
Remove the 8 mm bolt securing the fan shroud.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the radiator fan and un-clip the wiring from the back of the shroud.
Remove the fan.
Repeat with the second radiator fan.
3. Install the new radiator fans.
Put the fans down into the engine bay next to the radiator.
Bolt the fans into place.
Reconnect the electrical harnesses and clip them back onto the shroud.
Clip the fuse box back into place.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to remove and reinstall the radiator fans in this 2001 Ford Taurus. The fans didn't need repaired in this car. I'm just doing the video to show you how to take them out and put them in. The only tools you'll need are an 8mm socket and ratchet and a flat blade screwdriver. We're going to disconnect the battery here using an 8mm socket. You'll want to use a regular screwdriver. There is two tabs, you'll want to pull out on the tab, and pull up on this fuse box. This will just go up and out of the way a little bit. You'll see there is an 8mm bolt right here. You can see right down there is a plug for your radiator fan. All you're going to do is pry out lightly here and pull that plug off. You want to pull these pins. You can see here's one of the pins out. Pull these pins out of the fan shroud. Okay. We'll kind of speed through that process of unplugging the fan and removing the harnesses from the clips, and then finish out removing the 8mm bolt. Get this up out of the way. Pull this fan up. That just comes out of the bottom. Lift it out.
With this fan I've done the same thing. I already loosened this bolt. I've already unplugged it. I'm just going to take that bolt off. I'm going to pull it out. Then I'm going to slide over to where this other fan came from. It's going to be a fight with all the wiring. Slide it up and out. Slide this on over. It has two feet that have basically a cross pattern on it. If you look down in you can see right there, that cross right there, that's where one of the feets goes. Then that cross right down there is where the other one goes. You put the fans down in, and you kind of just work them back and forth a little bit. You find where they go down in, and then that 8mm bolt lines up. Then tighten up that bolt. Tighten up this 8mm bolt. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the fan. Make sure everything's routed correctly. Put the fuse block back into place, reconnect the battery, and you should be all set. The second fan, slide it down in, just pull the wiring out the way kind of. The same thing on the feet. This goes down in here into place. Tighten up your 8mm bolt. This back into place now, and then the pins connect them. Put the harnesses back into their places. Connect the battery one more time. You should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person
PSA58721
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.50/ 5.040
40 reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Star
32
3
1
1
3
Jennifer
November 16, 2017
All the parts were there, as in the picture. Got it within just a few days. Can't be happier to try them out.
Fits my vehicle perfect.
F
March 30, 2018
Perfect fit and everything was what I ordered. I will be ordering again soon.
Front end kit
S
April 15, 2018
Bought these parts for my 1997 Chevy Silverado 2500 and they fit perfect. Thanx for the quick delivery. Ill be buying from you again.
ordering made easy
E
May 3, 2018
so glad I found this company. I have saved so much time and money. wish I had found them sooner.
Happy
D
June 9, 2018
It was a nice and easy way to find the parts I needed for my truck and was pretty specific also I will be buying more parts as needed when the time comes thanks 1aauto
Sent incorrect parts
M
August 5, 2018
Bought this kit because it seemed sensible and affordable. Took us a few weeks to actually get the truck done but once we got to the sway bar links we realized they were not the right ones and had to go out and spend extra money to buy the correct ones. Beware when buying this kit and make sure all of the parts are correct!
K
October 25, 2018
I have ordered parts here from accessories to engine and suspension ,all my parys have been correct .I recommend A1AUTOPARTS.
Exactly what they said
Nicholas
October 25, 2018
I was a little worried trying this online but honestly it shipped fast and when i open package everything was there and absolutely no issues install any of it. I had it all install by myself in less then a few hrs and they all worked great
Very Affordable High Quality Parts
M
December 14, 2018
Price point was very awesome for the parts and they where good quality parts havent had parts install as of yet but shouldnt have any problems with them but if I do shouldnt be a problem getting the right parts
Fast shipping
Amanda
August 18, 2019
Fast shipping
K
September 20, 2019
Took me a week to get it which wasn't bad, good name brand & great material. First time shopping with 1A Auto & it surely won't be my last. They've got great deals as well.
Read this ??????
J
January 9, 2020
The parts I ordered showed up quicker than expected and they are good quality parts I have since then ordered the wheel bearing brake rotor combination and I will leave a review to let everyone know what I think. The front end parts I ordered installed easy work great enter tougher built then others I have seen
Great price
Heather
February 26, 2020
Great price with fast shipping. Thank you
Budget friendly repair
Jim
May 13, 2020
The steering and suspension kit from 1AAuto is a budget friendly, robust replacement for your worn steering and suspension parts. I found the quality to be exceptional, the warranty is lifetime, something not found from every vendor. I would recommend this product to professionals and the do it yourself mechanics.
Perfect
R
May 26, 2020
Really good price and quality and fast shipping. Although the pitman arm doesnt fit the z71 all the other parts are a good fit and definitely a lot cheaper than going to the local auto parts store.
Just ordered
K
July 1, 2020
Still waiting to receive. Price was right.
Parts
C
July 1, 2020
Quality of the parts are top notch, and they will be shipped to you quickly.
Grrrrreat
H
July 15, 2020
Good timing for delivery got it before I expected it..
D
August 11, 2020
All Parts good and on time...Will order more
Happy
Natalie
August 13, 2020
Love the affordability and quick ship time. I had everything I needed and helped my truck a ton.
Parts
K
August 17, 2020
Great parts fast delivery
First impressions
J
August 25, 2020
Great price for the package. Good quality parts tho would be great to have greaseable options... Overall great kit.
Best place
Angel
October 1, 2020
1a is the best place to get all the parts u need ty 1a auto
Did not fit
Darrell
October 14, 2020
These were not the right size for my Chevy! It stated it would fit but they were either too large or wrong set!
REVIEW ON TIME AND GREAT FIT
G
October 18, 2020
PARTS WERE AN EXACT FIT FORM AND FUNCTION.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO EVERYONE.
Kit is the way to go
Cynthia
November 8, 2020
Went with the kit to be on the safe side. The kit covers all bases in case something else is worn out. I recommend the kit that way evrything is new and you dont have to worry about other pieces being worn out when you do the pitt man arms. I have no dislikes. Thank you very much.
Overall satisfied
Jonathan
November 24, 2020
Easy to install. Overall satisfied with the products. Fast shipping. Came in two days of ordering.
Great service
C
December 9, 2020
Got exactly what I ordered and on time. Video on the site was helpful.
Cant beat A1 for front end kits.
A
December 19, 2020
This is the 3 front end kit I purchased from A1, sure I shop around, but the turn time and the bundling makes it an easy sell.
Excellent
Phillip
January 8, 2021
The parts fit and came on time. Received it in the mail as stated. Ill be sure to recommend this place to anyone else who wants to work on a vehicle. Thank you so much
A1
V
February 2, 2021
The shipping process was very quick and useful! Amazing
Silverado
Ulises
March 5, 2021
Best parts Great prices and Quick and easy shipping
Best thing I've ordered of the internet yet!!
Andreas
April 29, 2021
Came right away after I ordered it. Better priced then parts store also my opinion better quality. Was asked when I was at part store why I didn't come there and told them you can beat this and they tryed but couldn't. Love it. Was my first time doing this to a truck but after words was pretty easy if watch the video. Will be ordering again when it's do in time. Thanks and I highly recommended this 1aauto already to a few friends..
Get what you pay for
J
May 8, 2021
I probably should have done more research on these parts in comparison to others: 99 Chevy Tahoe 2 Door 4x4 - Sway bar links did not fit, did not have tie rod sleeves, new parts did not have grease fittings (not sure how I feel about this yet). If you're looking to just get stuff fixed, it's a good option, but if you're looking for OEM comparable, an upgrade, or for longevity in parts, look elsewhere.
All good brotha
Jonathan
May 8, 2021
Well everything came in the package on time I had little trouble getting bottom ball joints in but I think that was more my fault of then that It was all good parts were all the right size ?
Great quality and warranty especially for the price! Also A1 Auto is very quick with lifetime warranty replacements! Their instructional videos on putting in these parts are great too! My pickup with over 300k miles finally drives smooth and straight with no vibrations and my new tires should wear even! Only reason I didn't give 5 stars is that I wish they were greasable and that the kit included the rod sleeves. The picture is from about a months worth of driving.
Neal
October 7, 2021
The parts were cheap copies and did not match the parts on my Truck. I would not buy anything from 1A
Wendy
February 3, 2022
The packaging was nicely done. My kit was missing one item but customer service was surprisingly very fast at responding and shipping out my missing item. Overall I'm very happy and would recommend 1A AUTO.
Charles
February 22, 2022
Work good
perfect
Christina
June 7, 2023
everything fit. now im riding smooth ?? thanks
Customer Q&A
how do u tell if control arms are forged or stamped?November 4, 2015
Angel K
10
Hello and thank you for your inquiry,
You should be able to see if there are seals where the steel gets stamped together, almost like tracing the sides of the control arms. If you are unsure you should be able to call the dealer with your VIN number and they should be able to tell you. Thank you and have a great day!
November 4, 2015
Derek C
How do you tell if you have stamped or forged contr arms?March 19, 2018
K E
10
The easiest way to tell is by using a magnet. Stamped steel will attract and the forged aluminum control arms will not. Thank you!
March 21, 2018
Adam G
10
Use a magnet
March 23, 2018
M I
10
Any magnet even a fridge one can be used.
March 30, 2018
Jessie E
10
Forged are usually a type of aluminum composite
August 13, 2019
B I
10
A cross sectional cut of the metal will show stress lines of the component. Also forged should render a harder metal. A hardness test would also show the difference
December 4, 2019
J O
10
Stampedvwill obviously be made from smooth textured sheet steel and forged will typically appear as a rough cast texture.
July 1, 2020
K G
10
Different size and other ways
October 11, 2020
David S
10
Different size along with a few other ways
January 28, 2021
Lamont S
10
differently made
April 6, 2021
K J
Will this fit 98 k1500 4x4?June 29, 2020
Johnny D
10
Thank you for the inquiry! This kit is correct for models that have stamped steel lower control arms. There were a few different materials of lower control arms offered on this vehicle, so be sure to check which type you have. Please let us know if you have any questions!
June 29, 2020
Andra M
Will these parts fit a 1996 Chevrolet four wheel drive 1500 pickup truck?September 21, 2020
Bobby H
10
Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, according to the information you provided, this part will fit your vehicle as long as it has Stamped Steel Lower Control Arms. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
September 22, 2020
Christa R
Will this fit a chevy tahoe limited v8 5.7L rwd?January 30, 2021
Valente P
10
This kit will only be compatible with the 4WD design.
February 1, 2021
Jessica D
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