Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1A Auto. com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best source on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto dot com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the idler arm on this '96 Tahoe. This is a full drive truck so it's the same as any '98, or '88 to '98 GM truck and '92 to 2000 SUV. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, joint fork and hammer, a tie rod or an idler arm puller, a torque wrench, telescoping magnet and an 18 millimeter wrench.
First, using a 19 millimeter wrench or your tire iron, remove your front. Using a 15 millimeter wrench, remove this front shield. Then, we're zooming in here and this is a 24 millimeter bolt that holds the idler arm on to the steering linkage. We're going to use a joint fork, we're just going to put that right in between the joint where the idler arm and the steering linkage is, zoom out here and then, just use a good-sized hammer and just force that fork right between the joint and separate that joint. The idler arm assembly is held on by three bolts. You can see the backside of them there. You get to them through the frame through access holes right there. You can see my wrench is through one and then the other two are right near them.
We'll speed up going through and removing those three bolts. Note have a telescoping magnet available for when you drop those bolts into the frame as I do a couple of times. What I'm doing here is pulling the idler assembly away from the frame, and at the same time with the other hand, pushing the idler arm up and away from the steering linkage, or actually pulling the steering linkage down. Eventually it comes loose enough and comes right out. This is a 24 millimeter. You want to use this puller and this is a rubber gasket here, pretty much just have to force it into your puller, pull that right off. My new one; right back into place.
The trouble you run into is when you try to put this back together, right back and these two go to the back when you try and put this back together, this is a lock nut and wind up turning the shaft. What I'm doing, I got a big old bolt from another project. I put that on there and what happens this will go in enough and when I hit that other nut, it'll start pressing this on to the shaft. Then, I can use the arm itself to pull the shaft. I put my lock nut back on.
Using a magnet, I took out my other two bolts so I have that top one in. I'm going to use an extension and hold that bolt in place, assembly up in here and hang in on that bolt.
I will put the nut up on that bolt and then basically repeat the step for the two bolts, put them right in to my extension with my socket, feed them through. See the bolt come through, put it on to the assembly and put the nut back on and then same thing with the third one. Feed it through, see the back of my head and then, put the nut on. Before I tighten those up, I'll turn my attention over to the steering gear. Here I pull the steering gear down and on to the joint for the idler arm and then just put the nut on hand tight. Now we'll go back to tightening up those three bolts. You want to use torque wrench and tighten them up to 80-foot pounds. This 22 millimeters and tighten these up to 80-foot pounds as well. Just a little tighter so we can fit that cotter pin through.
We'll put a grease gun in there and make sure we hit that grease footing to get it properly lubed up. Put your shield back on real quick with the four 15-millimeter bolts. Over here, we're just going to put that little pin back into the harness that was holding our airbag sensor there. We'll speed up putting the tire back on. Put on the lug nuts, tighten them a little bit, then lower the car down and torque them to about a hundred twenty to a hundred forty foot-pounds and then put your cap back on.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet.
This is part two of doing the Pitman Arm on this '96 Tahoe, which is the same as any '88 -'98 GM truck, or '92 - '99 SUV with four-wheel drive. Again, a little refresher on the tools that you'll need.
Believe it or not, I actually forgot to film... or, I actually messed up and I didn't film pulling the Pitman Arm off, so I'm just going to show you how to use the Pitman Arm puller and the tool on - this is actually the idler arm. This is the same idea, you would just be doing it on the steering box. You put the tool on like that, and then put your wrench on there and pull it, and that breaks it right free. Once we've used the puller, we can take the old arm off and put the new one on. There are four marks, or four larger teeth that make sure that you put the arm on in the right position. The best thing is just take the old one right off and then put the new one right back on in the same position. That way, you know that you have it centered correctly.
We'll put the big lock washer back on... actually, what we might want to do is put the nut on first, tighten it a little bit, which presses the arm on, and then take it off of the lock washer. Then, right up in here you can see, here's our steering coupler. The bolt is to the frame side, and it's basically straight up and down, so you want to have your steering box ready to go the same way. So, it's ready to go up in there. This flat spot here is what aligns with that bolt, so then, basically, take your box and put it in there. Now we've got our steering box up in there. Now take a bolt, feed it through, and you can see it come out on this side. Try and position the steering box so the bolt will go in, and then once you've got the bolt started, just reach up on top of the steering box, make sure your hoses are free - they're not pinched in between the frame and the box. Wrap the third one here.
Here's that Pitman Arm, and here's where it hooks into our steering, and while we still have the box loose a little bit, just move that all into place, and then just start this nut on there for right now. Before you actually tighten up the steering box to the frame, you'll want to connect your linkage here. You can see right down there is the end of the steering box, and this, I have this rubber boot pulled back. This telescopes back and forth, and what you want to do is, you can see there's a flat spot here on the gear, and then there's also a flat spot in your coupler, which I have right at the top now, so you basically want to push your shaft down on there and lid on. Then, put the bolt in, and you want to tighten this bolt up to about 35- 40 foot-pounds. Okay, we've reconnected and tightened both the power steering hoses, and they are different-sized fittings, so you shouldn't have any problem.
I'm going to torque these bolts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm going to torque this nut to 80 foot-pounds. I'm going to put in our new Pitman Arm came with a cotter pin and lock it, and it looks like I need to tighten it another quarter turn. I push the cotter pin through and pull it down around to lock it. Obviously, you're going to want to put your wheel back on, and when it's down on the ground, you're going to want to torque those lug nuts to 120 - 140 foot-pounds. Now, here I am adding some power steering fluid and, basically, you want to fill it to the level it's supposed to be, turn the car on, turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times, and then refill it until it's at the right levels. Then the last step is some grease on this fitting, and it should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet, and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to remove and reinstall the radiator fans in this 2001 Ford Taurus. The fans didn't need repaired in this car. I'm just doing the video to show you how to take them out and put them in. The only tools you'll need are an 8mm socket and ratchet and a flat blade screwdriver. We're going to disconnect the battery here using an 8mm socket. You'll want to use a regular screwdriver. There is two tabs, you'll want to pull out on the tab, and pull up on this fuse box. This will just go up and out of the way a little bit. You'll see there is an 8mm bolt right here. You can see right down there is a plug for your radiator fan. All you're going to do is pry out lightly here and pull that plug off. You want to pull these pins. You can see here's one of the pins out. Pull these pins out of the fan shroud. Okay. We'll kind of speed through that process of unplugging the fan and removing the harnesses from the clips, and then finish out removing the 8mm bolt. Get this up out of the way. Pull this fan up. That just comes out of the bottom. Lift it out.
With this fan I've done the same thing. I already loosened this bolt. I've already unplugged it. I'm just going to take that bolt off. I'm going to pull it out. Then I'm going to slide over to where this other fan came from. It's going to be a fight with all the wiring. Slide it up and out. Slide this on over. It has two feet that have basically a cross pattern on it. If you look down in you can see right there, that cross right there, that's where one of the feets goes. Then that cross right down there is where the other one goes. You put the fans down in, and you kind of just work them back and forth a little bit. You find where they go down in, and then that 8mm bolt lines up. Then tighten up that bolt. Tighten up this 8mm bolt. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the fan. Make sure everything's routed correctly. Put the fuse block back into place, reconnect the battery, and you should be all set. The second fan, slide it down in, just pull the wiring out the way kind of. The same thing on the feet. This goes down in here into place. Tighten up your 8mm bolt. This back into place now, and then the pins connect them. Put the harnesses back into their places. Connect the battery one more time. You should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet.
This is part two of doing the Pitman Arm on this '96 Tahoe, which is the same as any '88 -'98 GM truck, or '92 - '99 SUV with four-wheel drive. Again, a little refresher on the tools that you'll need.
Believe it or not, I actually forgot to film... or, I actually messed up and I didn't film pulling the Pitman Arm off, so I'm just going to show you how to use the Pitman Arm puller and the tool on - this is actually the idler arm. This is the same idea, you would just be doing it on the steering box. You put the tool on like that, and then put your wrench on there and pull it, and that breaks it right free. Once we've used the puller, we can take the old arm off and put the new one on. There are four marks, or four larger teeth that make sure that you put the arm on in the right position. The best thing is just take the old one right off and then put the new one right back on in the same position. That way, you know that you have it centered correctly.
We'll put the big lock washer back on... actually, what we might want to do is put the nut on first, tighten it a little bit, which presses the arm on, and then take it off of the lock washer. Then, right up in here you can see, here's our steering coupler. The bolt is to the frame side, and it's basically straight up and down, so you want to have your steering box ready to go the same way. So, it's ready to go up in there. This flat spot here is what aligns with that bolt, so then, basically, take your box and put it in there. Now we've got our steering box up in there. Now take a bolt, feed it through, and you can see it come out on this side. Try and position the steering box so the bolt will go in, and then once you've got the bolt started, just reach up on top of the steering box, make sure your hoses are free - they're not pinched in between the frame and the box. Wrap the third one here.
Here's that Pitman Arm, and here's where it hooks into our steering, and while we still have the box loose a little bit, just move that all into place, and then just start this nut on there for right now. Before you actually tighten up the steering box to the frame, you'll want to connect your linkage here. You can see right down there is the end of the steering box, and this, I have this rubber boot pulled back. This telescopes back and forth, and what you want to do is, you can see there's a flat spot here on the gear, and then there's also a flat spot in your coupler, which I have right at the top now, so you basically want to push your shaft down on there and lid on. Then, put the bolt in, and you want to tighten this bolt up to about 35- 40 foot-pounds. Okay, we've reconnected and tightened both the power steering hoses, and they are different-sized fittings, so you shouldn't have any problem.
I'm going to torque these bolts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm going to torque this nut to 80 foot-pounds. I'm going to put in our new Pitman Arm came with a cotter pin and lock it, and it looks like I need to tighten it another quarter turn. I push the cotter pin through and pull it down around to lock it. Obviously, you're going to want to put your wheel back on, and when it's down on the ground, you're going to want to torque those lug nuts to 120 - 140 foot-pounds. Now, here I am adding some power steering fluid and, basically, you want to fill it to the level it's supposed to be, turn the car on, turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times, and then refill it until it's at the right levels. Then the last step is some grease on this fitting, and it should be all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet, and in person.
