Kit Includes: (2) Front CV Axle Assemblies (2) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies
Specification
Vehicle Wheel Hub Option
with 6 Lug Wheels
Drivetrain
4 Wheel Drive
Engine Displacement (Metric)
V8 5.7L
Location
Front
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Differences Between Tapered Bearings and Ball Bearings
How to Replace Front CV Axle Shaft 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Front Wheel Hub Bearing 1992-2000 Chevy Tahoe
How to Replace Front CV Axle Shaft 1988-1994 Chevrolet K1500
How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing 1988-2002 GMC Sierra 1500
Created on:
Tools used
No Tools Needed
1. Tapered Bearings vs Ball Bearings
Tapered rollers shaped like flat top cones provide more contact area, which increases their capability at receiving forces excreted by trucks and large cars.
Ball bearings are good for small cars as they do not need to sustain as much weight as the tapered roller bearings.
Hi everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto, and today we're gonna talk bearings. The difference between a roller bearing and a ball bearing type.
While both a roller bearing and tapered bearings work in the same manner. Tapered bearings use tapered rollers shaped like flat topped cones and two races angled from the outside to the inside of the bearing. The rollers have a large contact area which is what makes them better than roller bearings at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering in trucks and large cars.
For applications that require it, the TRQ brand offers tapered roller bearing style wheel bearings that match OEM specifications where other brands do not.
Roller ball bearings work well for small cars but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing will result in increasing wear and faster failure.
So now that you know all parts aren't created equal, you can purchase your TRQ bearing at 1aauto.com.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Hammer
Wheel Chocks
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
Floor Jack
Liquid Thread Locker
Trim Tool Set
Safety Glasses
Tools used
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
Trim Tool Set
Brake Parts Cleaner
Pick
Socket Driver
Paper Towels
Copper Anti-Seize
Wheel Chocks
Center Punch
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Wire Brush
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
13mm Wrench
Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle from under the frame. Let's get the center cover off of here. Remove all six of your lug nuts and remove the wheel. Now, let's remove our axle nut. Remove the washer. Let's spray this area with some penetrant. Let that soak, move along.
Now that the wheel's off of here, we have a nice clear view of this area. Let's continue on to pushing back our caliper piston. Typically, to do that, you can use a pry bar, come right in between this area right here, and then we're just gonna slowly and carefully pull on this like that. Next, we need to remove our caliper sliders. There's one slider, do the same to the other one. Go ahead and grab on to that caliper and give it a nice wiggle, see if we can get it to break free. Set this up here so it's not putting any tug on there. Remove the rotor. The next thing we wanna do is disconnect our ABS wire. You just pull on this tab. Can pop that off of there. It's always a good idea to make sure you inspect all of your connections, make sure you don't see any funny colors. Assuming you don't, set it aside. We're gonna remove this 13-millimeter headed bolt here. And then if you follow it along, you'll find a nut with a bolt coming from the bottom. Let's get them both out of there.
Now, I'm just gonna use a little fork tool or even a pry bar. Just get underneath this, pop it out of the frame. Let's get these off of here. Now, looking behind this hub area, you're gonna be able to see where there's three mounting bolts, one up top and then two that are down diagonal from there. If you were to spin your front hub, you're gonna notice that there's gonna be a couple holes. Go ahead and line those up with the bolts and then start removing them.
Now, the next thing we're gonna do is just take our axle nut, start it on the axle just a few threads and then we're gonna continue on to bonking on our wheel bearing trying to break it free from the knuckle itself.
Let's go ahead and pull this off of here. There it is, friends.
Now, let's just go ahead and clean up the area. Get any grease out of here and, of course, clean up the mating area so it's nice and smooth. All right. Now, let's just clean up this entire area, paying special attention to the bolt holes as well. All right. Before we can go ahead and put in our brand new bearing, we wanna of course make sure that we clean up the threads on our mounting bolts. Let's do that now.
All right. Now, it's time to install our brand new wheel bearing. Let's go ahead and carefully slide it over the axle. We wanna make sure that the splines match up. And of course, we wanna make sure that the ABS wire is gonna be located in this general area right here and not over where the caliper is gonna be. Now, that's in there, let's go ahead and put our plate on it. That's gonna be a shield that's gonna protect the ABS wire. Now, we'll just go ahead and start in all three of our bolts. We'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Now, let's torque this to 133 foot-pounds. Now, let's secure our ABS wire. You're gonna notice you have little prongs, set those so they're facing down towards the control arm/ball joint. Take your bolt from the bottom to the top, start on that nut. Let's bring the other end all the way over here. Let's grab that ABS wire, connect it in. Let's go ahead and push this tab into the frame. Make sure it's nice and secure. Now, let's just go ahead and start snugging everything up.
Now, let's coat the cleaned area with some copper never-seize. Let's get that rotor on there. I'm just gonna start one of these lug nuts to hold the rotor from moving around. Now, let's carefully put our caliper over the rotor here. Now, we'll just start in both of our sliders and we'll torque them to 38 foot-pounds. Now, let's go ahead and put on the axle nut. We're gonna tighten this up by hand so it's nice and snug, and then we'll put on the wheel, torque everything down. Now, let's start on all of our lug nuts. Now, let's go ahead and torque this axle nut to 103 foot-pounds. Now, we're gonna go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Now that everything is torqued, let's continue on by putting on our center cover. Go ahead and snug up all of those plastic nuts.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Brake Parts Cleaner
21mm Socket
Copper Anti-Seize
sanding disc
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Cloth Rags
3/8 Inch Impact Gun
36mm Socket
1/2 Inch Impact Gun
Tools used
13mm Socket
Air Chisel
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
Magnet - Extendable
Pocket Screwdriver
3/8 Inch Allen Wrench
Ratchet Strap
Copper Anti-Seize
sanding disc
Cloth Rags
36mm Socket
22mm Socket
Once your vehicle is safely raised and supported, take a pry bar right to this area right here, remove that. Use your 22-millimeter socket and remove all of your lug nuts. Now we're gonna use our three-eighths Allen head and we're going to remove our caliper slider bolts. get that out of there. Do the same to the other one. Now let's get the caliper out of the way. You can use a pry bar to just try to pry it. Obviously, this caliper is going to be replaced at some point, but that's not for this video. We'll get the rotor out of the way. Now we have a clear view of our bearing. Now we're gonna flip this up right here and it exposes where the ABS wire connects in. We're going to disconnect these two. Small screwdriver. Pops right up. Take that off of there. Use your 13-millimeter, remove this. Come along here. Remove the wire from these clips coming across the top of the control arm, and you're gonna use a 13-millimeter here and hold the bolt on the bottom side. I want to spray this with some penetrant for good luck. That's off of there.
Now we're going to use our 36-millimeter socket and remove our axle nut. Inside here, there's a washer. Use your magnet and get that out of there. Use a punch with a hammer or your air chisel with a punch bit and drive right in through the center right here. If you want to use a little penetrant in between the wheel bearing and the axle, it's your prerogative. That's great. It's important not to use a hammer right on here just in case you peen over these threads. Next, we're going to use a 15-millimeter socket and we're going to remove our mounting bolts. There's one here, here, and right there. These bolts right here in great condition, but with the year of this vehicle, more than likely, they're probably going to be in poor condition. If for some reason yours were rotted and you didn't think that they were usable, we sell them. Use your little hammer and break this free from the knuckle. Awesome. I'm going to put this rag in here like this, and then I'm going to clean this up so there's no debris along it. Let's wipe this down.
Now, if I'm looking at this, it looks as though that there's grease in here and the grease itself actually looks like it's in really good condition. If for you, inside there look like it was rusted and flaking or anything like that, or if it look like it was full of debris, you'd want to clean it out. To me, this looks fine. It's going to help keep moisture out. I'm going to continue. Wipe off this blind area, just check to make sure everything looks like it's in great condition, and it does. Let's grab our bearing. Slide this on here. Make sure your cables in no way are gonna get pinched. This looks great.
I'm going to line up our bolt holes here, and then we'll start in all the bolts and torque them down. Snug them up. Torque these to 184 foot-pounds. Torqued. Make sure you mount this on there. Got my nut in here, snug it up. Move along to this one. This is going to come right up here. And then, of course, we've got this. I'm gonna take this piece right out of here because obviously, we have a nice new one. Click this in. Nice and easy. Put that up there. Let's make sure we get this mounted in here as well. Here we are. Not touching up against anything. Make sure we get this, cover that back up, put this back in here.
Time to get the axle nut back on here, start with that washer, that nut. If you want to use a little threadlocker, we'll call it your prerogative. It's going to get that close. And then we'll torque it down to manufacturer specifications. Let's put on some copper Never-Seez on the mating surface here. Now, of course, we're going to clean up the mating surface on the backside of that old rotor. Now that we've got that done, we're just going to hold it by putting on one of these lug nuts so the rotor can't move around. Now, using a little bit of imagination and not noticing that the brake hose is ripped off of there, we're going to take our caliper, put it right up on here, it should slide right on. If it doesn't slide on, you're gonna need to clean up this area here and that area right there. Take your slider bolts. Put them through like that.
Now we're going to snug these up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get the wheel up on you here. We're going to start on all the lug nuts. We're going to bottom them out in a criss-cross manner, and then we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now we're going to torque this axle nut to 165 foot-pounds. Let's grab our center cover.
Shocks, went right on, axles fit great! New hubs worked out .Great Customer Service 5*****.
Gregory
September 28, 2017
The parts arrived as promised and the fit was perfect. The price couldn't be best either
Perfect fit and Super fast shipping!!!
Y
August 28, 2018
I normally dread doing any kind of major mechanic work, but with the proper parts and the instructional videos to assist, this job was actually quite pleasant. One of the best things about using 1A Auto is they tell you what tools are needed, this helps you to be prepared and efficient. Thank yall for all the hard work put into this business!
Hubs an axles 1995 Chevy k1500
Justin
June 18, 2019
Great parts n cheap well built parts axles standing up under 4x4 circumstances
Great customer service
C
October 30, 2019
I ordered this part and the CV axels actually arrived damaged either from shipping or a preexisting condition. I called 1aauto.com and they corrected the issue almost instantly. They even allowed me to donate the damaged parts to my local high school's auto shop. It was a pleasure doing buisness with 1aauto.com and will most likely use them again.
CV axle shafts
S
January 8, 2020
Very nice quality parts setup. When your boots tear this is a great deal. You get new boots, CV joint, tone ring and pick up for the ABS system. Boots will tear in time and do not be tricked into getting lesser quality, notice the number of baffles on the boot this will reduce stress and stretching. Also do not get rebuilt CVs as they are a hardened steel and will not hold up to that process. Easy to put in by removing your shock or sway bar link ,watch 1A video to see how easy it is!
Just what I needed
Ray
March 16, 2020
The product fit my 1997 Chevy K1500 4WD perfectly. Great response time and price.
It broke before I drove it, and it didn't fit
J
April 2, 2020
Not sure what happened here but the CV axles did not fit my 98 k1500. I believe they were too long or they sent me the wrong parts. Not only that, but when we were disassembling the axle, the inner knuckle/ball came out of the housing and wont go back in. It completely froze and locked up. It will not pivot or rotate as it should.
The hubs fit, but I have zero confidence in them lasting any reasonable amount of time.
For herbs and CV shafts
J
July 4, 2020
good quality parts The fit was exactly the same ????
97 GMC 1/2 ton
Joshua
August 9, 2020
Parts fit perfect after I figured out how to remove the tone ring with a 45 minute call to customer service on hold. My first instinct was to beat them off with a hammer but I wasn't sure, customer service confirmed that's how to get them off the axle. My truck has antilock brakes but no clearance for tone ring. These parts got here fast and seem to be good quality.
Axles
J
December 25, 2020
Have been working good since I have installed them last year and believe they will keep going strong.
Nice
Ernest
March 15, 2021
Prompt delivery parts so far so good
I will be back for more Especially if I win the 500
ROBERT
March 31, 2021
These axles and hubs are great quality. They were packaged well and the included instructions for installation were very helpful. I will definitely be purchasing more parts from 1AAuto.
Perfect Fit
Eddie
July 5, 2021
Fit was perfect, shipping was quick. Looks to be good quality, only time will tell.
Fast delivery easy to work with
Randy
October 1, 2021
Well made a good product
They make sure you have the right part for your vehicle
Anthony
December 20, 2021
A1 is great they take care of you and parts and everything
Ken
January 29, 2022
All the parts are really nice easy to install except you need to include the hub bolts with it I had two bolts stripped a heads and had to go to my local auto parts to get new ones so it'd be nice if they were included in the kit
Suburban
Angelina
March 30, 2023
Perfect fit, great price. Fast shopping
Customer Q&A
Will I need to also purchase ball joints for this before installing?February 16, 2017
Cord A
10
Only if the ball joints are worn and need replacing. Not necessary but couldn't hurt.
February 16, 2017
Michel R
10
If your ball joints are in good condition no you don't have to replace them!!
February 16, 2017
Richard A
10
That is up to you, but not necessary.
February 16, 2017
Derek C
What is the brand for the axle and bearing assembly?July 13, 2017
Andrew B
10
Chinese!
July 13, 2017
Jeffrey B
10
These are our 1A Auto brand parts, built to meet or exceed OE specifications in either China or Taiwan.
July 13, 2017
Alex P
Would these be compatible with a front 3" lift/leveling kit?April 25, 2022
Joaquin A
10
No, these parts are for vehicles with the stock ride height and no modifications.
April 26, 2022
Andra M
Chevy silverado 1500 4x4 1998 will they fit my truck?January 23, 2024
James M
10
Yes. I put them on my 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4.
January 23, 2024
Shawn S
10
Yes, this part will fit your vehicle as long as you have ABS Brakes.
January 23, 2024
Meghan R
Customer service
877-844-3393
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