Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Lower Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (1) Idler Arm (2) Front CV Axle Assemblies (1) Idler Arm Bracket Assembly (2) Rear Shock Absorbers (1) Pitman Arm (2) Front Shock Absorbers (2) Front Inner Tie Rods (2) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assemblies (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
without Electronic Suspension
with 3 Groove Pitman Arm
without Quadrasteer
Location
Front & Rear
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
How To Replace Sway Bar Links 2001-14 GMC Sierra
How To Replace Sway Bar Links 2001-14 GMC Sierra
Created on:
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Diagnosis
The stabilizer link can break and the bushings can wear out.
A good way to tell if the problem is the stabilizer link is if there is a rattling that stops when you go around turns.
2. Remove the stabilizer link
Apply penetrating oil to the link.
Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to unbolt the stabilizer link.
Secure the upper part of the stabilizer link with an adjustable wrench to help get the traction needed to work the nut loose.
3. Install the new stabilizer link
Thread the new link into place
Put all your bushings and washers in place.
Make sure everything is snugged into their places in the stabilizer bar and the control arm
Use a jack to push the nut on to get it started.
Repeat the removal and installation process up to this point on the other side before tightening the stabilizer link nut up all the way.
If the old link is stuck or broken, you can use a Sawzall to cut it out.
Take great care to make sure you don’t damage any other parts if you do.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the sway bar links in this 2002 GMC 2500HD, basically the same as most '88 to '06 GM pickups, SUVs, vans; also the same as a couple of Ford applications. Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands for some vehicles, 14 mm socket and ratchet or whatever is correct for your link, they could be different depending on application, an adjustable wrench, and some penetrating oil.
Your stabilizer link is right up underneath. This big bar here is your stabilizer bar, and then here is your control arm. It's connected by this, which is the stabilizer link right here. This can break. Also, these bushings, these rubber bushings can wear out, which will cause a rattling sometimes when you go over bumps. You have a good idea if it's the stabilizer link if, when you go around a turn, the rattling stops. I'm going to show you how to replace that.
On top, you're going to want to spray some penetrating fluid. This is a 14 mm bolt down here at the bottom. What you're going to want to do is put an adjustable wrench onto this side. This is an original link here, so the thing on top is kind of bolt-shaped. I've got that on there to hold it. Now I'm going to attempt to slowly unscrew it.
The bolt comes down, and that can come out. Then you can see, even though there's nothing too terribly wrong, you can see that this one is worn, right in here, so we'll replace it. On the original you can see this top nut has edges to it so you can get that wrench on there to hold it in place. We've gotten it out of there, but we still have this in place. Just pull that right out, like that. I'm going to take my new link and I'm going to put it up through. This bushing has the ridge up into the control arm. Then I'm going to take a bushing down and then a washer on top of that, then my spacer. Then I'm going to take a bushing and a washer, and now the step goes up into the sway bar. Then just push that.
In order to get this in, what I've done is this is a little jack. If you're doing this just on the ground, you can do the same thing. Put the jack in underneath the stabilizer bar here, lift it up, and create plenty of room to push that up through. Then you want to make sure these bushings all go right into the holes in the stabilizer bar, right there, and the control arm. This last bushing goes with the ridge down, then the washer on top. I'm going to put the jack right in underneath here, push this up in to get the nut on.
I've got this together and I've got the nut started on there. I'm going to replace the other side first before I tighten it up. I wouldn't take apart the other side here you can see, this is the one from the driver's side and this is the one from this side, so you can see this whole part was rough and it broke off. It's possible this link wasn't really doing anything anyways. This here that broke off of this one is stuck inside there. What I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to actually cut this link with my Sawzall. I'm going to do that very carefully, because I don't want to contact the boot or anything else. I don't want to contact the CVs. I just want to cut through the link itself.
Now with the car on the ground, you want to tighten up the links. I'm just using an air ratchet. You can hand tools, obviously. Tighten up both sides and you're done. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
14mm Socket
Jack Stands
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Diagnosis
The stabilizer link can break and the bushings can wear out.
A good way to tell if the problem is the stabilizer link is if there is a rattling that stops when you go around turns.
2. Remove the stabilizer link
Apply penetrating oil to the link.
Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to unbolt the stabilizer link.
Secure the upper part of the stabilizer link with an adjustable wrench to help get the traction needed to work the nut loose.
3. Install the new stabilizer link
Thread the new link into place
Put all your bushings and washers in place.
Make sure everything is snugged into their places in the stabilizer bar and the control arm
Use a jack to push the nut on to get it started.
Repeat the removal and installation process up to this point on the other side before tightening the stabilizer link nut up all the way.
If the old link is stuck or broken, you can use a Sawzall to cut it out.
Take great care to make sure you don’t damage any other parts if you do.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to replace the sway bar links in this 2002 GMC 2500HD, basically the same as most '88 to '06 GM pickups, SUVs, vans; also the same as a couple of Ford applications. Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands for some vehicles, 14 mm socket and ratchet or whatever is correct for your link, they could be different depending on application, an adjustable wrench, and some penetrating oil.
Your stabilizer link is right up underneath. This big bar here is your stabilizer bar, and then here is your control arm. It's connected by this, which is the stabilizer link right here. This can break. Also, these bushings, these rubber bushings can wear out, which will cause a rattling sometimes when you go over bumps. You have a good idea if it's the stabilizer link if, when you go around a turn, the rattling stops. I'm going to show you how to replace that.
On top, you're going to want to spray some penetrating fluid. This is a 14 mm bolt down here at the bottom. What you're going to want to do is put an adjustable wrench onto this side. This is an original link here, so the thing on top is kind of bolt-shaped. I've got that on there to hold it. Now I'm going to attempt to slowly unscrew it.
The bolt comes down, and that can come out. Then you can see, even though there's nothing too terribly wrong, you can see that this one is worn, right in here, so we'll replace it. On the original you can see this top nut has edges to it so you can get that wrench on there to hold it in place. We've gotten it out of there, but we still have this in place. Just pull that right out, like that. I'm going to take my new link and I'm going to put it up through. This bushing has the ridge up into the control arm. Then I'm going to take a bushing down and then a washer on top of that, then my spacer. Then I'm going to take a bushing and a washer, and now the step goes up into the sway bar. Then just push that.
In order to get this in, what I've done is this is a little jack. If you're doing this just on the ground, you can do the same thing. Put the jack in underneath the stabilizer bar here, lift it up, and create plenty of room to push that up through. Then you want to make sure these bushings all go right into the holes in the stabilizer bar, right there, and the control arm. This last bushing goes with the ridge down, then the washer on top. I'm going to put the jack right in underneath here, push this up in to get the nut on.
I've got this together and I've got the nut started on there. I'm going to replace the other side first before I tighten it up. I wouldn't take apart the other side here you can see, this is the one from the driver's side and this is the one from this side, so you can see this whole part was rough and it broke off. It's possible this link wasn't really doing anything anyways. This here that broke off of this one is stuck inside there. What I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to actually cut this link with my Sawzall. I'm going to do that very carefully, because I don't want to contact the boot or anything else. I don't want to contact the CVs. I just want to cut through the link itself.
Now with the car on the ground, you want to tighten up the links. I'm just using an air ratchet. You can hand tools, obviously. Tighten up both sides and you're done. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
PSA40551
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.33/ 5.03
3 reviews
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Budget friendly rebuild kit
Grant
July 26, 2023
Overall the kit was worth it. There were a few parts that were smaller than what was original to my truck, but that could have been to the towing package that is original to my truck. The shocks were a little under sized and I used them on a different truck. Something i was not aware of when I purchased the kit was that none of the ball joints, tie rod ends, or pitman arms are greaseable. Still worth the money when having to replace everything. The price of the kit was work it for the wheel bearings and axles alone. Over all I am happy with the purchase. If I have to replace these parts in the future I probably would go with a higher quality level.
Great quality
Quincy
December 12, 2023
The kit was perfect. The customer had a 6 inch lift on his vehicle and wanted to go back to stock height. This kit saved a lot of time and money.
??
Jose
May 31, 2024
This kit made everything feel tight, I love that it came with rear shocks as well.It topped the cherry off.
Customer Q&A
Would it fit the 03 gmc Sierra 2500 HD duramax ?November 2, 2023
Brandon L
10
This will be correct for the 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD for models with 3 groove pitman arms.
November 2, 2023
Nick R
Whats this about a 3 grooves pitman arm? Why does it have 3 grooves? To fit different applications?November 20, 2023
Jeremy G
10
The pitman arm in this kit is specifically listed for 3 groove.
November 26, 2023
Kemal S
Will this fit an 06 lly/lbz Duramax 2500hd?February 6, 2024
Kenneth M
10
This kit is listed to fit the 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD with 3 Groove Pitman Arm.
February 6, 2024
Kemal S
I have a 05 2500hd 6 inch rough country lift. Would this be a good front end kit?April 26, 2024
Kevin E
10
Thank you for your inquiry! Could you please provide us with your 17-digit VIN number?
April 27, 2024
Jean O
Customer service
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GMC is a registered trademark of General Motors Company. 1A Auto is not affiliated with or sponsored by GMC or General Motors Company.See all trademarks.
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