2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 without Electronic Suspension Front & Rear 4 Piece Complete Shock Assembly & Shock Absorber Kit TRQ SBA60414

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear shocks on this 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500. It's the same part and process on the Silverados and Sierras from 2008 to 2013. The items you'll need are: new rear shocks from 1AAuto.com, a jack and jack stands, penetrating oil, 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for leverage, 21 millimeter wrench, a torque wrench, and a hammer.

The shocks are obviously located right under the vehicle, attached to the rear-end and up to the frame. We're going to show you the left side, and the right side is the same procedure. To start off, you're going to want to spray some penetrating oil on these bolts, the one at the bottom, and then the one up at the top. Using a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe, you want to loosen up that bolt. You'll see that the actual bolt will keep turning in there, so you're going to want to use a 21 millimeter wrench on the other side, and just loosen up that nut and remove it. You want to do the same thing to the upper bolt, but you won't need a wrench for this because the nut is actually welded to the truck. Using a hammer, just hit that bolt out. You can use another bolt or a small screwdriver. Just hit that in to push the bolts out. Once that bolt is removed, swing that down and you can pull the bolts out from up top.

Here's the old part in the front, and the new part from 1A Auto in the back. You can see they're identical. They'll fit exactly the same. Now, take your new rear shock, and put it up into place. Replace the bolt. Now, you want to swing that lower part into position. If you can see there, it wasn't actually going to reach. What you want to do is either lower your vehicle so there's a little bit of pressure on the wheels to push that up, or just put a jack underneath this, and bring it up. You're really just trying to get that high enough so that it will match up with the shock. Now as you can see, the bolt slides right in. You just want to replace that nut. We'll fast-forward as he tightens these two bolts up. Now torque the nut on the lower part to 80 to 85 foot pounds, and the same with the bolt up top. Then go ahead and replace the other side. We always recommend you replace your shocks in pairs.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

What's up, guys? I'm Andy, from 1A Auto. Today, I'm going to show you how to replace the rear shock in this 2008 Chevy Silverado. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

One of the first things you want to do when you're doing the rear shocks on this vehicle—you're going to want to remove the spare tire. It's normally in this position. This vehicle—it doesn't have a spare tire—this support is broken. So, start by taking that off. We did raise the vehicle. You don't necessarily have to raise the vehicle when you're doing this job, but if you do and you support it by the frame, we are going to also want another support under the axle, because the rear shock is actually holding the axle up a little bit. So, when we take these bolts out, the axle will fall down a little bit. So, I'm just going to support this rear axle, right here. But like I said, you can do this on the ground. You can leave the tires on. Just get on a creeper.

I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar, and a 21mm wrench to hold the nut. We'll loosen this up. Once that's loose, I can take the nut off. I'm not going to pull the bolt out yet.

And up top, I'm going to loosen this bolt up. You don't need a wrench on the inside, because the nut is welded to the frame. Loosen this up. Once that's loose, I'm just going to switch to a ratchet and we can loosen up this bolt. Once that's loose, you can pull this bolt out. And I can grab—that's loose up top. Grab the bolt underneath. Just slide the shock right out.

Here's our old part. Here's our new shock from 1aauto.com. It's a TRQ part. It's got an updated metal dust shield versus the old plastic style. The size of the actual shock is the same. It comes with the rubber grommets and everything is the same. Get yours at 1aauto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

Alright. So, we'll take our new shock and I'll line it in up top, and line it in down below. Woops—can grab the bolt, slide it in down below first. Slide it in up top. You can do either, or whatever is easier. If you have to move the axle up a little bit, go up a little, or down a little.

Take my 21mm socket and ratchet. Start tightening the top one up first. Alright. That's good.

I'm going to put the nut on the lower bolt. Take the 21mm wrench and a socket and ratchet and I'll snug this up first. Now we're going to torque them both.

I'm going to use a torque wrench and a 21mm socket. I'm going to torque this to 85-foot pounds. That's good. Torque this top bolt.

Now, if you did not raise the vehicle and support the vehicle, and you did not have the axle have to go up and down—you just left it on the tires—you would need a pry bar to pry the shock to compress it a little bit and to get these bolts to line up. And the same—similar on the passenger side. The shock goes forward, in front of the axle, instead of behind the axle. But procedure is the same.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Remove the center cap with a large flat-bladed screwdriver or a plastic prying tool you can get from 1AAuto.com. Push in here and pop it off. Use a 22 millimeter socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and finish removing the wheel.

Support the suspension arm assembly with a jack or a jack stand. We're using this because we're working on a two post lift. The suspension is going to want to drop when we remove the strut and spring assembly, so that's why we need to have it supported. At the top here, there are three studs with nuts. We will start by removing those. And then, loosen the two stud and nuts on the bottom and pull the strut assembly out.

I will spray some rust penetrant on the nuts and bolts here. Use a 15 millimeter wrench on the top ones. If they are stuck, use a dead blow, break them free. With those broken free, I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench, make things go a little quicker. These two lower mounting bolts go through the control arm. There is a 15 millimeter head on this side, and an 18 millimeter nut on this side. I'm going to try to break this nut free first. Take my wrench and then hit it with my mallet.

So it looks like it's actually turning the nut, and not the bolt, which is good. Free it up. I'm going to try to do the same for the other side. With the nut loose, I'm going to kind of hold it with my 18 millimeter, and take a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Now I've got it loose, I can undo it with my fingers. Slide the long bolt out. I'll put these together and put them aside. So repeat the removal for the other bolt. I'm going to hold the shock and I'll lower the suspension down. I'm going to capture one of the top nuts just so if the strut and shock combination comes loose, it doesn't fall completely out. I'm going to take a pry bar and sort of push against the bottom. Reach up, hold the strut up, and undo that top nut. Pull it out of the mount. It's not going to come down this way, so it's going have to come out through the top. We have our strut and spring assembly.


Here's our old strut and spring assembly from our vehicle, and our brand new assembled strut and spring from 1AAuto.com. So the nice things is you don't have to worry about swapping these springs, which can be very difficult. It comes fully loaded, ready to go. As you can see, it's got the same mounting bolt holes in the bottom. It has the same three studs on the top to mount. It has the same three mounting studs on the top as the original that came out. And this should go in your vehicle great and give you a good ride. This is just a warning sticker. You can remove this before you install it. You don't need to mess with this center nut. It's all set.

The spring is assembled. The warning's telling you not to undo it. Just leave it alone. You can take the sticker off. So we're going to go ahead and install this in the vehicle now. Before we install it, just remove these nuts that it comes with. Place them aside. I'm going to loosen this one and hold onto it, because when I install it, I'm going to use it to just hang the strut in place so it doesn't fall. So just keep that in a handy spot. When you install this, there are two mounting holes in the back. They are slotted, so they give you a little bit of room to work with.

I'm going to line the strut up with the two studs in the back and the one in the front, faced the way that it's already set up. And these are lined up to match up with the control arm. We're going to go in the reverse the way we took the old one out. Slide it up into place. That's why I kept the nut handy. I can reach up and capture one so it doesn't fall on me. I'm going to use that one nut I installed and a ratcheting wrench to just draw the strut up into place. I'm going to pry up on the suspension a bit, on the strut, do this. I have a large pry bar on one side of the suspension arm, so I basically just pried the control arm down, and then pried the shock into place. Take a punch and align the bolt holes.

You're going to have to spend some time moving the shock around to get these bolts to line up, either using an awl or a punch or a little pry bar to try and pry it around. This one doesn't quite line up. I've got the other one captured, so we'll take a pry bar and sort of pry the strut around. Try to wiggle it in. There it is. I captured the other two nuts on the top studs. These are locking nuts. And if they're torqued, they'll be locked in place. The bolts that we're replacing these with, the head is a 13 millimeter, the nut is still a 15. I'm just going to snug these up. And we'll use a 15 millimeter ratcheting wrench. Tighten up the top nuts. I torqued these lower bolts to 37 foot-pounds. Caught a hold of the top of the bolt and nut. Repeat the other one. Torque the top nuts to 37 foot-pounds using the deep socket and torque wrench.

Place the wheel back on the car. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. With the vehicle on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts. Torquing these 140 foot-pounds. Going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the center cap. Line up this valve stem picture with the valve stem on the wheel. Just pushing it into place.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.