2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 without Electronic Suspension Front & Rear 6 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ SKA34372

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear shocks on this 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500. It's the same part and process on the Silverados and Sierras from 2008 to 2013. The items you'll need are: new rear shocks from 1AAuto.com, a jack and jack stands, penetrating oil, 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for leverage, 21 millimeter wrench, a torque wrench, and a hammer.

The shocks are obviously located right under the vehicle, attached to the rear-end and up to the frame. We're going to show you the left side, and the right side is the same procedure. To start off, you're going to want to spray some penetrating oil on these bolts, the one at the bottom, and then the one up at the top. Using a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe, you want to loosen up that bolt. You'll see that the actual bolt will keep turning in there, so you're going to want to use a 21 millimeter wrench on the other side, and just loosen up that nut and remove it. You want to do the same thing to the upper bolt, but you won't need a wrench for this because the nut is actually welded to the truck. Using a hammer, just hit that bolt out. You can use another bolt or a small screwdriver. Just hit that in to push the bolts out. Once that bolt is removed, swing that down and you can pull the bolts out from up top.

Here's the old part in the front, and the new part from 1A Auto in the back. You can see they're identical. They'll fit exactly the same. Now, take your new rear shock, and put it up into place. Replace the bolt. Now, you want to swing that lower part into position. If you can see there, it wasn't actually going to reach. What you want to do is either lower your vehicle so there's a little bit of pressure on the wheels to push that up, or just put a jack underneath this, and bring it up. You're really just trying to get that high enough so that it will match up with the shock. Now as you can see, the bolt slides right in. You just want to replace that nut. We'll fast-forward as he tightens these two bolts up. Now torque the nut on the lower part to 80 to 85 foot pounds, and the same with the bolt up top. Then go ahead and replace the other side. We always recommend you replace your shocks in pairs.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, I'm going to show you how to replace the front shocks and spring assemblies on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. This is a 1500 with full-wheel drive. It's the same as any Chevy Silverado 1500 as well as the GMC Sierra 1500. We'll show you the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. We do always recommend you replace these in pairs. You'll need new struts from 1AAuto.com, you'll need 15mm to 22mm sockets with a ratchet, a long extension, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, penetrating oil, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.

From the top there are three 18mm nuts that hold the top of the strut in place. You can see one there, one has a wire loom on it there that I'm going to reach down, grab, and just pull off. I apologize for the camera shot. You just grab the wire clip and pull it up off the stud. You have the other one there and your third one there.

Now use an 18mm socket with a long extension and remove those three nuts. Remove the center cab just by prying with a screwdriver, and if you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle. Then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel and tire, and they are 22mm lug nuts.

Turn the wheel using hands or using the steering wheel, and then you need to remove the stabilizer link. Make sure you put some penetrating oil on the top end of it there, then use a wrench on the top side and a socket and ratchet on the bottom side to remove it all the way. Going to speed it up a little bit using an impact wrench to take that off. It just speeds things up for us.

Now with the shock or strut in place, we're just using a 15mm socket and ratchet. You might want to use a breaker bar to break them loose, but they come apart pretty easy on this truck. We'll fast-forward as we just take those out. With those bolts out, press down on the suspension some and bring the strut down and then up and out.

You can see the new struts from 1A Auto are exactly the same. There are two clips on the old strut that you want to pry off with a screwdriver, and then it's easiest to reinstall those just when you put the strut back into the vehicle. Put them on there, put the bolt up through, and you'll see us to do that. Putting the strut back in, if you look on the top of the strut where the coil spring ends that goes to the outside, and you put the strut back in and then lift it up into place.

Then you can just start the nuts onto the top. Put the bottom down in place, take your bolt, run it up through, and then those clips that you took off of the original strut, put them into place, and we just kind of hold them with our fingers, get the bolt started, and then you can press them down into place and tighten up the bolts the rest of the way.

You can see here we use a screwdriver to put through the clip to hold it in place until it gets down far enough that it holds itself in place. Repeat it for the other side as well. You can tighten these up between 70 and 75 foot-pounds. Speed up as we put the stabilizer link back in place. Use a pry bar to lift up on the swag bar a little bit, put the link back in place, put the bolt up through, and then tighten the nut down on top.

Then put our wheel back on, put the lug nuts back on by hand first, then tighten them up preliminarily. With the vehicle back down on the ground and secure, torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern. Tighten up and torque the top three nuts to *38* foot-pounds, and put that wire clip back in place. You should be all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

What's up, guys? I'm Andy, from 1A Auto. Today, I'm going to show you how to replace the rear shock in this 2008 Chevy Silverado. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com.

One of the first things you want to do when you're doing the rear shocks on this vehicle—you're going to want to remove the spare tire. It's normally in this position. This vehicle—it doesn't have a spare tire—this support is broken. So, start by taking that off. We did raise the vehicle. You don't necessarily have to raise the vehicle when you're doing this job, but if you do and you support it by the frame, we are going to also want another support under the axle, because the rear shock is actually holding the axle up a little bit. So, when we take these bolts out, the axle will fall down a little bit. So, I'm just going to support this rear axle, right here. But like I said, you can do this on the ground. You can leave the tires on. Just get on a creeper.

I'm going to use a 21mm socket and a breaker bar, and a 21mm wrench to hold the nut. We'll loosen this up. Once that's loose, I can take the nut off. I'm not going to pull the bolt out yet.

And up top, I'm going to loosen this bolt up. You don't need a wrench on the inside, because the nut is welded to the frame. Loosen this up. Once that's loose, I'm just going to switch to a ratchet and we can loosen up this bolt. Once that's loose, you can pull this bolt out. And I can grab—that's loose up top. Grab the bolt underneath. Just slide the shock right out.

Here's our old part. Here's our new shock from 1aauto.com. It's a TRQ part. It's got an updated metal dust shield versus the old plastic style. The size of the actual shock is the same. It comes with the rubber grommets and everything is the same. Get yours at 1aauto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

Alright. So, we'll take our new shock and I'll line it in up top, and line it in down below. Woops—can grab the bolt, slide it in down below first. Slide it in up top. You can do either, or whatever is easier. If you have to move the axle up a little bit, go up a little, or down a little.

Take my 21mm socket and ratchet. Start tightening the top one up first. Alright. That's good.

I'm going to put the nut on the lower bolt. Take the 21mm wrench and a socket and ratchet and I'll snug this up first. Now we're going to torque them both.

I'm going to use a torque wrench and a 21mm socket. I'm going to torque this to 85-foot pounds. That's good. Torque this top bolt.

Now, if you did not raise the vehicle and support the vehicle, and you did not have the axle have to go up and down—you just left it on the tires—you would need a pry bar to pry the shock to compress it a little bit and to get these bolts to line up. And the same—similar on the passenger side. The shock goes forward, in front of the axle, instead of behind the axle. But procedure is the same.

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