Replaces
Part Details
Rotors do not include wheel bearings or seals.
Performance Brake Kit Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1 A Auto. I want to help you save time and money, repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1 aauto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to be doing a front brake job on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe. We show you obviously, the passenger side and the drivers side is going to be the same. Always replace your brakes in pairs. This is the same for the Tahoe, Suburban, and also the CK Pickups, Chevy and GMC alike. Tools you'll need are: jack and jack stands, a 22millimeter socket with a ratchet, or your tire iron, a 3/8 Allen wrench, combination wrench, a large hammer, wire brush, grease, as well as a torque wrench.
Start by removing your wheel. If you have a center cap or the lug covers, take them off carefully and then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools or impact tools as I do, you'll want to start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up, secure it and remove the lug nuts and the wheel. You can see our outer pad is actually getting a little bit thin, and on the front side, the disc is in pretty good shape, if you run your finger on it. On the back side there is a pretty good groove, we'll see what that's all about when we take it off. You want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and what happens is that as your brakes wear, the piston, right here, comes out of your caliper. To get your brakes apart, it helps if you force that piston back in. I'm taking a screwdriver and prying out on the caliper, and you can see that that forces the piston back in. With a good sized screwdriver, you can actually reset your pistons, pretty much all the way.
We want to remove the calipers, and back here, there are two 3/8s Allen bolts, one here and one right down here. I've got my 3/8s Allen wrench, I'm going to put it in, make sure it goes into the bolt as far as possible, then I'm going to use a regular crescent wrench on there for some extra leverage. Pull, ok, same thing for the top. I'm going to fast forward here as I finish removing those two bolts. Once you've got the bolts back out, your caliper comes off. You see your pads, the inside one just pulls right out. On the other one, put a screwdriver right in here, twist it and it comes right out. On your caliper, the bolts go through these sleeves, and those sleeves should slide pretty nice and easily. If they don't, you can use an extension and force them out, go easy though, you don't want to push too hard and have them fly right out, like that. You want to inspect these and see how worn they are. You can wire brush these, if there's some build up on them, you can wire brush these and reinstall them with a little bit of grease. This one was really difficult, this one here, I'm pushing much easier and takes a lot less to force it out.
If you want to better reset the pistons on your caliper, what you can do is put your old pad back in, take a C clamp, put it in place, tighten the clamp up, you will force that piston in the rest of the way. To remove the rotor, be very careful not to hit your studs, and if want to, you can put the lug nuts back on, that will help protect the studs from getting damaged. Usually a good hit breaks it loose. You can see on the backside, there's quite a bit of uneven wear. We will replace these rotors. New rotor from 1 A Auto, going on, in place. I like to put a lug nut right on, just to hold things where they should be.
You'll notice I'm working with new calipers. The owner of this vehicle wanted a new set put on the truck. Not always necessary, but make sure you reset the pistons, also check those sleeves, like I showed you earlier in the video, make sure the sleeves that the bolts go through are sliding nicely in the caliper. Take your inside pad, put it down in and press it in. Your outer pad, kind of slide it right down in. Just going to make sure these two shafts are back in at their starting point, looks like they're out a little bit.
I'm going to hit fast forward here. Put the bolts through, you might have to move the calipers a little back and forth to get them started. Use your Allen wrench to start them most of the way until you get them seeded. With an Allen wrench of this size, I'm basically pull it as tight as I can with that, should be about 25 to 30 foot pounds. Now you can remove that lug nut you have holding the disc on. Put your wheel on, start all your lug nuts by hand, then use a wrench to torque them, or tighten them preliminarily. Set the vehicle back down on the ground, and torque your lug nuts to 100 to 120 foot pounds. Put your cap back on, just use a socket to secure those caps. Very lastly and most importantly, make sure you pump your brakes and get a good firm brake pedal before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Greene. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this and show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video were going to show you how to do the rear drum brakes on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe and this procedure is the same for many of these trucks. This vehicle does have the heavy-duty or 11 inch rear drum and it's the same for Tahoes, Suburbans, and a lot of the 1500 and 2500 GMC and Chevy trucks. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stand, 22 mm socket with a breaker bar or your tire iron, penetrating oil, a large hammer, brake spring tools .if you don't have brake spring tools I show you how to do it with a couple of vice grips or locking pliers , a flat blade screwdriver and some white grease.
You're going to start out by removing the wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of impact tools you'll want to leave the tire on the ground first. Remove that cap, loosen the lug nuts, and then raise and secure the vehicle. Then remove the lug nuts the rest away and remove the wheel and tire. Then, you're going to want to douse each wheel stud with penetrating oil and then right in between. Let that sit for a while, turn 180 degrees, and repeat. Let it sit.
Okay after we let it sit for a while make sure you've got your safety glasses on. Now to get your brakes apart. There are tools that are correct for this and they do make it easier. What I generally do is I use a set of vice grips, something that a lot of people have in their toolboxes. You want to make sure you lock it onto these springs really well because you don't want to smash your elbows on the wheel well. Okay so lock on there. Pull that spring up and off. I just like to put everything right on the leaf spring right behind it, so I know where everything came off of. Clip it onto here and grab your adjusting lever. Pull it out and down. That's got to come off. Next to this spring right here I'm just going to grab onto the first coil and pluck that out. You can remove this little spring for the adjuster lever.
Now, you want to undo these. You can see you push them in and turn them, and then you want to hold the back of the stud which is right here. This first one I lock it on here so I have room to turn it. Push down. That comes off. Put the stud up back. Over here, that comes off. Take this stud out. Now what you want to do is pull the shoes free. There's a bar here that you take out. Put it up there. Take your a small screwdriver. Right here there's a little clip on a pin. Use your small screwdriver and basically just drag that clip off. That pushes out and the shoes come off. You can then take this part here. Just by allowing the shoes to come together, that allows your adjuster to come off. Take it off of the spring there and your emergency brake lever.
Just speed it up here as I take and separate that emergency brake lever as well as the adjuster. On your backing plates you'll want to just clean it off. You can see where the shoes kind of rub against the backing plate so you get a wire brush and clean that up a little bit. Before you put your breaks back together here is your adjuster and you want to make sure it's nice and free. You can see it's turning very easily. Also this part here should turn independently. I'm going to grab hold of the adjuster wheel and use my screwdriver. I'm going to need a new adjuster. Most of the hardware is in rough shape, so I'm using a new adjuster. I've put some lubricant on the threads, but I'll keep that all the way closed and I've also put some lubricant right on that there so that will all spin nicely.
Your rear shoe is the one with the lining of the total length. You want to put the star side of the adjuster on the rear shoe. Then you put your spring like that. Take your front shoe and put it on the spring and flip them together and get the adjuster right in there between. On the backside of my shoes I've put a little bit of grease in the little slots there and also some grease on the top knobs there. I'll take my shoes and put them in place like that. Now what you can do is lift your front shoe up. Take your pin, and set it from the back and through. Then take this. You put the smaller spring in the front. See, that holds that on.
Now you can take your emergency brake lever and put it up in here, behind. Put the little spring washer on the backside then put it through. Then put a little locking clip in place with a screwdriver. Push it on. This goes right down in here. You then hold it sideways. Pin your lever and put that all through. It goes down like that. We got to put the pin through the back, push through. Make sure the plungers are in the brake pads correctly there. Put this on here. What you want to make sure is that you have this part of the hook in towards there, so basically twist it just a little bit like that. Grab on.
Okay now we want to put this on. Take our arm right out, put it on there like that. Push that down. Grab on tightly with your vice grips. Now we just want to push this spring in here. We're going to need to lift up on there and just kind of push it down with a screwdriver like that. For the last two springs, put that one in there. Make sure that your plungers are seated in the brakes correctly. I'm actually going to do this one first. Put it on there. Lock them nice and tight with the vice grips. That one's on. Okay, again lock onto it good and tight. Make sure our separator bar for the emergency brake is in there correctly. As you pull on it the shoe will pull in. Now your brakes are all together.
Kind of push the shoes around and let them get into place. Make sure this is all good. Your drum, at first it's going to go right on. What you could do is take your adjuster, pull this bar out, and then run your adjuster out some. Try that drum again. We'll go a little crazy. It goes on with a little bit of drag so that's good. Clear all of my old hardware off back here. For your best initial adjustments come back in here. There's a plug here. Take a brake spoon and up this tighter. Keep adjusting them. There's a good amount of drag. I need to back off a little bit.
Okay little bit of penetrating oil. Stuff that rubber plug in and use a screwdriver to get it started, and then I just used the butt end of it to bang it in there. Then put your wheel back on, start your lug nuts by hand. Kind of preliminarily tighten them up before you let the vehicle down, then let the vehicle down to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds. Be sure to do a couple of test stops at slow speeds before you road test your vehicle and make sure everything's working properly. Make sure to back up and apply your breaks a bunch of times, give those automatic adjuster's a chance to do a final adjustment.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
