2011 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Front Driver Side Power Power Window Motor & Regulator Assembly TRQ WRA51761

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We're going to actually hit our dome lamp override, which just turns off the dome lamp. Then we're going to start up here at the corner. You can use a plastic trim tool, but I can just get my fingers behind here, pull straight out and off. You want to avoid pulling it this way, because as you can see this broke off in there. It still has two clips left though, so it'll secure fine. Then we're going to remove three other trim panels. And behind the door handle, put a small screwdriver in here, pry the bottom out and bring that out. You can see a 10mm bolt there. Then behind the door pull, use a small screwdriver to pull that out. Two more 10mm bolts are in there. Then your door lock, you want to kind of pull up a little bit and pry with a small flat blade screwdriver. That comes up and off. Make sure you retrieve that little piece if it flies out. If this comes out, just retrieve it and don't put it all the way in. Just put it like that. Additionally, you need to pull up your trim panel, plastic trim tool available on 1AAuto.com and put it in the back and pull up.

Okay, and then work it in at the front as well. You can see there's two clips at the front and rear. If you don't have a trim tool, but you have strong fingernails, you can get it out, and then just pull straight up on front as well. Then there's four harnesses to disconnect and you might have more. If you have more options, just press the tabs and pull out. Use a 10mm socket with ratchet and extension, and remove those three 10 mm bolts. These ones may stay in there after you get them loosened up. And in that case, they'll just fall down, and you can retrieve them after you take the door panel off.

Now, there's a series of clips around the edge. I usually start at the top, pull straight out, and just work your hand down. Pull firmly. Then the bottom and the side, and then door panel can come up and off. And then you'll want to disconnect your door handle, which is a matter of pressing on the tabs. There's two tabs, so press one, pull through, rotate around. Press on the other one. That allows you to move that back, bring it up and around, and your door panel comes off.

You have to put the window up to access the bolts on the back side, so we're going to take our window master switch and we're going to plug it back in so we can put the window up. These plugs, here, are coated, meaning they have little slots that line up. So they'll only plug in one way, because we've only got three plugs, but there's more than three spots. This has some ears, here, that match up with this connector here. The same thing for this one. It only matches with these, so if you try to put in the wrong ones, it won't fit. You've got to find the right one and it'll slide in. I'm going to just turn the ignition on, put the window up, then turn the ignition off. You can unplug this switch again so it's not dangling in any way. Just put it aside so it doesn't get broken.

Now to get to the bolts that are on the back side, here, you have to pull this water barrier off. It's got some sticky strip caulk stuff. Just peel it off and then just go back on there. If it's really sticky, you can take a razor blade and just cut it as you're pulling away. Just gently work it off so you don't rip this foam. For the most part, you can reuse this. It will still be sticky, but you may want to get some new strip caulk to put on here when we replace it. So just be aware of that when you take it off.

All right, we're going to start changing the window regulator by supporting the glass, because we're going to unbolt the glass from the window regulator and you don't want it to slide down and break. We're just going to take some masking tape. We're going to start by loosening the 10 millimeter bolts that are holding the glass on this side and the one over here on this side. All right, we're using a 10 millimeter socket. We're going to loosen these up. These don't have to come all the way out. You just want to loosen them up enough that the glass will be free. We're going to start on the window regulator bolts. There's two up top here, and there's one down here holding the motor in. Then two nuts on the bottom. These you loosen. They don't have to come all the way out. These are going to slide up and out of the hole there.

All right, before we get too far, I'm going to unplug the window motor. Squeeze this gray connector in here. Now the regulator is loose. Now push it through over here. We're going to slide it up, slide it down. Slide this up. If it's easier, you can take the bolt out. Then you just maneuver the regulator out of the door cavity.

There's nothing wrong with our old one, so we're just going to put it back in. Just a matter of snaking in there. Just want that one side close. Now start with the motor side. You want to make sure you get it around the glass where there's little mounts. We've got the bottom stud in there now, and we put the top bolt back in. I had to take it out to help with fishing it in there. Now we'll tighten this down.

We'll put the bolt back in at the motor. Put our two bottom nuts on these studs. Don't forget to plug the motor back in, or else it's not going to work. That's the window regulator. All right. Finally, we're going to tighten the clamps back on the window. Now that your window is secured again, you can peel off your masking tape.

All right, we're just going to make sure the window goes up and down before we close this back up. Looks good. All right, now we're ready to install this back on the door panel. We're going to feed our wires through for the door switches and mirror. You can see the little channel that it was in, and you just push it down in.

First, you want to just make sure that your bolts come out and you retrieve them. There are two tabs here that just go right in to the door and rest conveniently so that's supported. Then you can put this up. Make sure you have four harnesses that poke up through the opening, here, or more if you have more options on your truck. Then reconnect your cable, slide the ball in, pull out, and push.

Make sure all your harnesses are up and through. Now that your cable's on, this ridge actually needs to go down into this channel here. So, hit the panel up into place. A little higher, you see it slides down. It should go down even. This should come right up through your lock rod. Then, if you look back in, you can actually see this pin here lines right up, and you can just go right around and lock the pins into place. So we want to be able to take these bolts and put them in. They’re a little bit loose, though. So, if you just take a piece of painter's tape, put it on the head of the bolt, stuff your socket on there, and it stays much better. You can guide it right in and start it out. If the painter's tape does stay behind, it's not a big deal, but tighten it by hand first to make sure it's in, and then tighten it up.

This one is pretty easy to get into place. Put the lockdown on. Snap that in place. This one, the round side goes underneath. Put this into place. Switch panel, these all only go in one way. So, like this one won't plug into there. It won't plug into there. It'll only plug into there. Then this one will only plug into there. This one can go in place. The last one, again, it has three tabs. One of ours is broken. Make sure it goes right straight in, kind of look in behind.

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