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Tools used
Hi everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto, and today we're gonna talk bearings. The difference between a roller bearing and a ball bearing type.
While both a roller bearing and tapered bearings work in the same manner. Tapered bearings use tapered rollers shaped like flat topped cones and two races angled from the outside to the inside of the bearing. The rollers have a large contact area which is what makes them better than roller bearings at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering in trucks and large cars.
For applications that require it, the TRQ brand offers tapered roller bearing style wheel bearings that match OEM specifications where other brands do not.
Roller ball bearings work well for small cars but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing will result in increasing wear and faster failure.
So now that you know all parts aren't created equal, you can purchase your TRQ bearing at 1aauto.com.
Tools used
Once your vehicle is safely raised and supported, take a pry bar right to this area right here, remove that. Use your 22-millimeter socket and remove all of your lug nuts. Now we're gonna use our three-eighths Allen head and we're going to remove our caliper slider bolts. get that out of there. Do the same to the other one. Now let's get the caliper out of the way. You can use a pry bar to just try to pry it. Obviously, this caliper is going to be replaced at some point, but that's not for this video. We'll get the rotor out of the way. Now we have a clear view of our bearing. Now we're gonna flip this up right here and it exposes where the ABS wire connects in. We're going to disconnect these two. Small screwdriver. Pops right up. Take that off of there. Use your 13-millimeter, remove this. Come along here. Remove the wire from these clips coming across the top of the control arm, and you're gonna use a 13-millimeter here and hold the bolt on the bottom side. I want to spray this with some penetrant for good luck. That's off of there.
Now we're going to use our 36-millimeter socket and remove our axle nut. Inside here, there's a washer. Use your magnet and get that out of there. Use a punch with a hammer or your air chisel with a punch bit and drive right in through the center right here. If you want to use a little penetrant in between the wheel bearing and the axle, it's your prerogative. That's great. It's important not to use a hammer right on here just in case you peen over these threads. Next, we're going to use a 15-millimeter socket and we're going to remove our mounting bolts. There's one here, here, and right there. These bolts right here in great condition, but with the year of this vehicle, more than likely, they're probably going to be in poor condition. If for some reason yours were rotted and you didn't think that they were usable, we sell them. Use your little hammer and break this free from the knuckle. Awesome. I'm going to put this rag in here like this, and then I'm going to clean this up so there's no debris along it. Let's wipe this down.
Now, if I'm looking at this, it looks as though that there's grease in here and the grease itself actually looks like it's in really good condition. If for you, inside there look like it was rusted and flaking or anything like that, or if it look like it was full of debris, you'd want to clean it out. To me, this looks fine. It's going to help keep moisture out. I'm going to continue. Wipe off this blind area, just check to make sure everything looks like it's in great condition, and it does. Let's grab our bearing. Slide this on here. Make sure your cables in no way are gonna get pinched. This looks great.
I'm going to line up our bolt holes here, and then we'll start in all the bolts and torque them down. Snug them up. Torque these to 184 foot-pounds. Torqued. Make sure you mount this on there. Got my nut in here, snug it up. Move along to this one. This is going to come right up here. And then, of course, we've got this. I'm gonna take this piece right out of here because obviously, we have a nice new one. Click this in. Nice and easy. Put that up there. Let's make sure we get this mounted in here as well. Here we are. Not touching up against anything. Make sure we get this, cover that back up, put this back in here.
Time to get the axle nut back on here, start with that washer, that nut. If you want to use a little threadlocker, we'll call it your prerogative. It's going to get that close. And then we'll torque it down to manufacturer specifications. Let's put on some copper Never-Seez on the mating surface here. Now, of course, we're going to clean up the mating surface on the backside of that old rotor. Now that we've got that done, we're just going to hold it by putting on one of these lug nuts so the rotor can't move around. Now, using a little bit of imagination and not noticing that the brake hose is ripped off of there, we're going to take our caliper, put it right up on here, it should slide right on. If it doesn't slide on, you're gonna need to clean up this area here and that area right there. Take your slider bolts. Put them through like that.
Now we're going to snug these up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get the wheel up on you here. We're going to start on all the lug nuts. We're going to bottom them out in a criss-cross manner, and then we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now we're going to torque this axle nut to 165 foot-pounds. Let's grab our center cover.
