Replaces
4 Piece Suspension Knuckle Kit
$334.95
15 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$379.95
Drivetrain Kit
$489.95
17 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$559.95
18 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
$559.95
18 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
$559.95
20 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
$729.95
20 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
$749.95
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
This video is brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi. I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A AUTO. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I am going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAUTO.com. The right parts installed correctly that is going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to show you how to replace the front axle on this 2002 GMC Sierra. It is pretty much the same as any Silverado Sierra and Suburban 2500. Tools you will need are 15mm, 22mm, and 35mm sockets, ratchet, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, two inch extension to avoid damaging your CV boots, jack and jack stands and a hammer.
Start up by using a 21 mm socket and just loosening the plastic retainers and taking off the hubcap if you have the style wheels. You want to raise and secure the vehicle. If you are not working with air tools like I am, then loosen the lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground then raise it with a jack, support it with a jack stand and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove the tire.
You want to remove the center dust cap. I started by using a smaller screwdriver and then using a larger screwdriver just working it in at kind of the four corners and opposite sides prying it out and eventually it came off. Now you want to remove the center hub nut. I have a benefit of air tools. If you don't have air tools you want to actually do this. You will probably put the wheel back on, put the truck back down on the ground and remove the hub nut with a big socket and breaker bar. Take a good size hammer. We are replacing the axle so we are not really that worried about it so you can just hit this right out. Basically you can give it one good wrap and just watch the axle in relation to the hub and if it moves then it is all broken free and it moved so this should come right out.
Next you want to unbolt the axle right here. Okay, 15mm socket, you wanted a small extension and then your ratchet. Your extension just keeps it away from the boot which is important when you put it back together. You don't want to ruin that boot. I am just going to take a screwdriver right here and that is how I am going to hold my wheel.
I am going to get some serious high speed here as I loosen up the bolts and remove them all. Now you want to take your axle and put it that way. Okay. Now, okay before you can get all the way out. We'll get a 9/16th wrench and take out this stabilizer link and get the axle right out. Okay. New axle from 1A Auto this is with a new locking nut and put it up in just how you took it on out. Just be careful not to damage these rubber boots at all and work it into your hub here. Push it directly. I am just going to take this and push it right up in there. All the way up.
Okay, really speed it up here. I start each one of the bolts first and then I just kind of preliminarily tighten them with my ratchet and then the next step is going to be to torque them up. I draw all my bolts in and they are tightened preliminarily. Use a torque wrench and I am going to torque these bolts to 60 foot-pounds and use my screwdriver again to hold. Let's use chalk to mark it so I know and then I like to go to the opposite one and pull this around. Okay so I just go to the opposite one and like I said I use a piece of chalk just to mark each one so I know it has been torqued and then I will spin it, and then you torque one then kind of torque the opposite one until you have got them all done.
Okay and kind of continuing the working at fast pace just put the stabilizer link back in. Just make sure you put it all back together with the sleeve in the middle and then when you tighten it up, I usually tighten up so there is about a half an inch of threads at the top showing and that is good enough and tight enough for the suspension. Okay so I am going to put the washer on and hub nut, okay. The hub nut that it came with is actually a 36mm and I don't have a socket that big so I am going to have to reuse my whole one.
Now what I am doing here is I am just tightening it preliminarily with the impact wrench. I am not tightening it all the way up yet. I want to torque it when it is on the ground. Okay, we will go back to speeding up here as we just put the tire on. I'm going to put the lug nuts on all by hand first and then again use our impact wrench just to tighten them preliminarily like the center nut. We are going to torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Now my center nut I'm torqueing to 155 foot-pounds. I am going to pull it tighter and I'm backing off and I am going to re-torque. I take my wheel lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds.
Okay and we'll speed up here and you can see that I kind of cross and do the opposite lug nuts and then afterwards I actually go around one by one and just make sure they are all torqued. Continuing on, we put that center cap, the dust shield back on. Just tap it on with a hammer. That will be fine. I said I used the screwdriver and just kind of tap it on the edges a little more, and then you use your 21mm socket and replace your center cap.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We are the company that is here for you on the internet and in person.
