Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before we put our vehicle in the air, we're going to remove this hub cap with these plastic covers that are over the actual lug bolts. This one here is broken. See if I can get this out. That's pretty loose. It comes right out. The other ones are 22 millimeter. If they're loose enough, you can do it by hand with a socket.
If you need extra leverage, you can use a short ratchet. These ones are coming off pretty easy. These stay with the hub cap. Going to use a large breaker bar and a 22 millimeter deep socket, and break all of these free. Now that I have all of these lug nuts loose, going to raise and support our vehicle. This is a heavy truck, and make sure you use heavy duty jacks, and a jack stand, and support it safely.
We're going to use our two-post lift. Because our truck is extra long, we're going to use this floor stand jack and just support the back of it right under the trailer hitch. We don't actually have to lift up on the truck. Just bring this up till it touches the bottom. Just right there is perfect. With the vehicle in the air, I'll remove the rest of the lug nuts. They should be loose enough to just use the socket. Take one of the lug nuts. Just put it on here. This might be seized on here. Nope. Came loose pretty easily, but I put the lug nut on here, so it didn't fall on me. Now, I can take those off.
Take the whole wheel and tire off. I want to compress the pistons in the caliper before we try to remove this, so we can actually slide it apart. Going to take a flat bladed screwdriver. Going to wedge it in here. Just gently pull against this. If we want to move the whole knuckle, we can do that. Give you better access to these bolts. Just got to compress that a bit. That's nice and loose. It'll be easy to take it off now.
We'll start with the caliper slide pin bolts. There's one on the top and one on the bottom. They are 18 millimeter. Going to use a large ratchet and loosen these. Get the top one. Going to switch to a smaller ratchet and socket so I can get this out easier. Pull it right out. Put that aside. Also, going to hold on to the caliper so it doesn't fall off. Pull it right out. Going to take our caliper, slide it right off, and it will sit right here in the upper, just like that. Be careful you don't twist your rubber brake hose too much.
Take our old brake pads out. These ones are actually in really good shape, but we're going to show you how to replace these anyways. The caliper bracket bolts: there's one on the top and one on the bottom. They're 21 millimeter, going to loosen and remove those. Need a little more leverage, so I'm going to use a breaker bar. There it goes. Switch to a smaller ratchet, so I can remove these quickly. I'll put the caliper bracket aside. This rotor is nice and loose. It's going to come right off. If it wasn't, you needed to push it off, you could thread some bolts in here of the appropriate size, and turn them evenly, and you push the rotor off of the hub. This one's going to come off nice and easy for us.
Here's our original brake rotor and pads for our vehicle. Here's our brand new stuff from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, it's an exact match to the original. Same style pads. They've got backing to them. These'll fit great and work great in our vehicle. I'm going to put our rotor on backwards first. Take the brake parts cleaner, clean this surface of the oil they're shipped on, so they don't flash rust. I'm going to just wipe them down. Flip it over. I'm going to take one of the lug nuts and just thread it down so the rotor's not moving around on me, while I'm trying to install the brake caliper and bracket. Also, clean this surface of the packaging oil. Need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. Got my C-clamp ready.
I'm going to take one of the old brake pads, roll this over. Put the old brake pads in here, and just gently squeeze it together. Press the pistons. Depending on how far out these pistons were. Some brake fluid might come out of the reservoir. Take our brake pad away. We're going to clean and reuse our hardware. They're just stainless. You can spray them with some brake parts cleaner and brush them off with a brush. Do the same for the other side. Clean and inspect our caliper slide pins. Just take a rag, wipe them down. Take a little bit of brake parts cleaner on the rag to clean off some of the stuff that's stuck on there. Going to take some caliper slide grease and just apply it to these. Install our caliper bracket. Hold it in place.
Get one of the bolts caught. Doesn't matter which one you do first, top or bottom. Thread it in my hand so it goes in nice and easy, not cross threaded. Just like that. The top one, going to tighten these down. Got to get them so they're tight. Now, I'll come back and torque them. I'm going to torque these to 120 foot pounds. Take some brake parts cleaner and just spray down the surface. Take some caliper glide grease and just put it in the little ears. This is the outside one. Doesn't matter which one you start on. Put it on one side of the hardware and have to maneuver it in there. Repeat this process for the other pad. Install the inside one in the same way. Put our caliper back on, into position. Make sure to get the boots under the openings here. Going to hold it. Got this top slide bolt in position. Have to pick it up. Slide it in. Thread it in my hand. Do the same for the other one. Going to use a small ratchet to snug these up. Going to torque these to 90 foot-pounds. Turn our wheel straight. Take our lug nut off.
Reinstall the wheel. Thread all the lug nuts on by hand before lowering your vehicle back down on the ground. Snug up the lug nuts, then torque them on the ground with the vehicle's weight on them. Torque the lug nuts to 120 foot pounds in a cross pattern. Reinstall the cap. Place those over the lug nuts. Get them threaded in. That one's broken. You can use the 22 millimeter deep socket to tighten them. Now, I have to [inaudible 00:09:23] these. They're just plastic. After you've finished the brakes, be sure to gently pump the pedal to bring the piston out to meet the rotor. Just pump till the pedal gets hard. That feels good.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to change the front brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, pretty much the same as any 2000-2006 and even some '07, the 2500HD as well as the 2500 both GMC as well as Chevy Silverado. Tools you'll need are: A jack and jack stands, various millimeter sockets with a ratchet, an extension, a breaker bar or metal pipe for some leverage if you don't have impact tools like I have in the video, penetrating oil, a large screwdriver or pry bar, a wire brush, two 10 m x 70 mm long standard thread bolts, anti seize lubricant, and a large C-clamp and a piece of wood.
Okay, so you'll want to remove your caps 21 mm, do this carefully. Okay, we'll fast forward a little bit and we'll use fast forward quite a bit for these monotonous parts. If you don't have air tools you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the tire on the ground, then jack up and support with jack stands under your vehicle. We're using a 22 mm. Okay, and we'll fast forward here again as we remove the rest of the lug nuts and remove the tire from your vehicle. You can see here I go to the other side and just turn the wheel, you can also just use your steering wheel, this allows you access to the back easier. Okay, so you want to inspect your brakes and you can see the face of this rotor is nice and smooth, if you run the back side of your fingernail up and down it, it looks pretty good. Then there's, you can actually see, probably, you can see right here when you move, you can see that moving part to the rotor, just to the left of it that's your brake pad, which it looks like there is pretty good life and this right here is your other brake pad and again, it looks like pretty good life. But, if you come down here and we look up in here and look at the surface of the rotor in here one, I can see some pitting which I don't like, and then there's a pretty good groove on this here so I'm going to remove the calipers and the rotors.
To remove the calipers I'm going to start with these two bolts here, okay, this bolt and this bolt. Okay, I want to remove the bracket to remove the rotor or the disk, I'm going to move this bolt and this bolt down here. I'm just going to take a big screwdriver, put right in here, and then slowly pry out. Okay, and that does two things it resets the pistons and also loosens it up so that the caliper comes right off.
The bolts are 18 mm, so a breaker bar is your best tool and if you only have a ratchet what you can do is take a piece of pipe and put it on the end and that gives you more leverage. Then you can pull and loosen those up. I do have air tools so I'm going to use them. Pull your pins out here and you'll want to clean these up and re-grease them. My lower one is not coming out very easily. Okay, that was pretty dry so we really need to clean that up and grease it well. It's okay to use the screwdriver to pry the caliper to come off. Then you'll want to set that here. Then your pads come off easy enough. If you were just changing your pads, we just pull off like that. Now the bolts that hold this bracket on are 21 mm. So what you'll probably want to do is spray a bunch of penetrating oil on there. Another thing that will help is if you take a screwdriver and you clean as much of the scale and stuff right here, okay, after you scrape that out coat back here with the penetrate as well. And I did show doing that to one spot, what you want to do is spin the rotor around and scrape all the scale for the entire diameter of the rotar and also coat the entire circumference of the rotor.
Is some M10 metric bolts; these are 7 cm long and just thread them in these two holes. I'm going to use my impact wrench, so you're basically just going to tighten them up so you pull the rotor and it comes off. Then take your bolts back out of the rotor. We can see on this rotor there is some definite pitting issues and we're going to replace it. With the rotor off, we want to clean off the hub. I used a screwdriver to scrape some of the scale off and then a wire brush to clean up more of the rust and then we're going to use some anti seize and put it on there. You can also use some, just some motor oil or penetrate to seal it.
Okay, so here's our new rotor from 1A Auto, the exact same as the old one and it has the threaded holes so it will come apart and I put a bunch of anti seize in the inside and put it on here. Give it good tap and then I like to put a couple of lug nuts on just makes it easy to get the brakes all together. Okay, now I'm going to take the brake parts cleaner, cut a paper towel, make sure there's no grease or anything still on the rotor. If you don't have brake part cleaner, household rubbing alcohol will do the same thing. Okay, so here's our caliper brackets, okay the stainless steel slides here take the wire brush and just clean those and polish them up nice, not polish them but just clean them off.
Now, here without 21 mm bolts we're bolting the bracket back on to the backside of the steering knuckle. Do keep in mind that the bracket goes on the rotor side so we'll start these bolts. Tighten these up to 120 foot pounds. These shoes have thin shins on them so you want to put a little coat of silicone lubricant on them and then you want these wear tabs to be facing against the way the wheel is going, you basically want them facing down. So, you put this on.
Okay, so you remember our slide bolt that was dry? Take a screwdriver and kind of get any of the scale off of it. This one is borderline needing to be replaced actually. Okay, a little grease on it, make sure it's greased up well. Okay, what I've got here is a piece of wood on both pistons and then a large C-clamp and as I tighten it's going to force the pistons back into the caliper. Tighten it as much as you can and get those pistons seated as far down there as you can and your clamp goes over the wood and then your caliper will go down right over, but you need to kind of move the little boot around a little bit, and then your bolt you cleaned up and lubricated. So, the caliper still moves back and forth we want a little bit more, I'm going to put these up to 90 foot pounds.
Okay, we're going to speed it up here, as I straighten the wheels, remove those two lug nuts, a little bit of anti seize or you could just put some oil or something just to keep the wheel from seizing to the disk. And now put the wheel on start your lug nuts by hand first, then I use my 22 mm impact wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily. Okay, now with the truck on the ground I'm going to torch my lug nuts to 120 foot pounds. I'm going to use a crossing pattern and then just another key while I'm doing this, before you drive your vehicle make sure you pump your brakes a whole bunch of times until the pedal feels nice and firm. That works the cylinders or the pistons back to the set position and then just make sure your brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from 5 mph and a stop from 10 mph before you go out and road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 1-888-844-3393. We are the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
