Replaces
2 Piece CV Axle Shaft Set
$179.95
2 Piece CV Axle Assembly Set
$251.95
4 Piece CV Axle Shaft Set
$329.95
Drivetrain Kit
$489.95
17 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$559.95
21 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$663.95
20 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
$729.95
20 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
$749.95
TRQ CV (constant velocity) drive axles are manufactured using premium raw materials designed to restore original performance. TRQ CV drive axles are new, so there is no core charge with your TRQ purchase. TRQ-designed drive axles utilize neoprene boots, moly grease, stainless steel clamps, and heat-treated ball tracks to ensure extended service life. Each TRQ axle is application-specific so each spline and thread will mate properly for a seamless fit. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
This video is brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi. I'm Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A AUTO. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I am going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAUTO.com. The right parts installed correctly that is going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we are going to show you how to replace the front axle on this 2002 GMC Sierra. It is pretty much the same as any Silverado Sierra and Suburban 2500. Tools you will need are 15mm, 22mm, and 35mm sockets, ratchet, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, two inch extension to avoid damaging your CV boots, jack and jack stands and a hammer.
Start up by using a 21 mm socket and just loosening the plastic retainers and taking off the hubcap if you have the style wheels. You want to raise and secure the vehicle. If you are not working with air tools like I am, then loosen the lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground then raise it with a jack, support it with a jack stand and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove the tire.
You want to remove the center dust cap. I started by using a smaller screwdriver and then using a larger screwdriver just working it in at kind of the four corners and opposite sides prying it out and eventually it came off. Now you want to remove the center hub nut. I have a benefit of air tools. If you don't have air tools you want to actually do this. You will probably put the wheel back on, put the truck back down on the ground and remove the hub nut with a big socket and breaker bar. Take a good size hammer. We are replacing the axle so we are not really that worried about it so you can just hit this right out. Basically you can give it one good wrap and just watch the axle in relation to the hub and if it moves then it is all broken free and it moved so this should come right out.
Next you want to unbolt the axle right here. Okay, 15mm socket, you wanted a small extension and then your ratchet. Your extension just keeps it away from the boot which is important when you put it back together. You don't want to ruin that boot. I am just going to take a screwdriver right here and that is how I am going to hold my wheel.
I am going to get some serious high speed here as I loosen up the bolts and remove them all. Now you want to take your axle and put it that way. Okay. Now, okay before you can get all the way out. We'll get a 9/16th wrench and take out this stabilizer link and get the axle right out. Okay. New axle from 1A Auto this is with a new locking nut and put it up in just how you took it on out. Just be careful not to damage these rubber boots at all and work it into your hub here. Push it directly. I am just going to take this and push it right up in there. All the way up.
Okay, really speed it up here. I start each one of the bolts first and then I just kind of preliminarily tighten them with my ratchet and then the next step is going to be to torque them up. I draw all my bolts in and they are tightened preliminarily. Use a torque wrench and I am going to torque these bolts to 60 foot-pounds and use my screwdriver again to hold. Let's use chalk to mark it so I know and then I like to go to the opposite one and pull this around. Okay so I just go to the opposite one and like I said I use a piece of chalk just to mark each one so I know it has been torqued and then I will spin it, and then you torque one then kind of torque the opposite one until you have got them all done.
Okay and kind of continuing the working at fast pace just put the stabilizer link back in. Just make sure you put it all back together with the sleeve in the middle and then when you tighten it up, I usually tighten up so there is about a half an inch of threads at the top showing and that is good enough and tight enough for the suspension. Okay so I am going to put the washer on and hub nut, okay. The hub nut that it came with is actually a 36mm and I don't have a socket that big so I am going to have to reuse my whole one.
Now what I am doing here is I am just tightening it preliminarily with the impact wrench. I am not tightening it all the way up yet. I want to torque it when it is on the ground. Okay, we will go back to speeding up here as we just put the tire on. I'm going to put the lug nuts on all by hand first and then again use our impact wrench just to tighten them preliminarily like the center nut. We are going to torque them when the vehicle is on the ground. Now my center nut I'm torqueing to 155 foot-pounds. I am going to pull it tighter and I'm backing off and I am going to re-torque. I take my wheel lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds.
Okay and we'll speed up here and you can see that I kind of cross and do the opposite lug nuts and then afterwards I actually go around one by one and just make sure they are all torqued. Continuing on, we put that center cap, the dust shield back on. Just tap it on with a hammer. That will be fine. I said I used the screwdriver and just kind of tap it on the edges a little more, and then you use your 21mm socket and replace your center cap.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We are the company that is here for you on the internet and in person.
